Femi Hemsaw 105 ABS - Long term review

[LeeG]

I have had my Femi Hemsaw ABS 105 for about 3 years now. I bought it as a replacement for my Harbor Freight 4x6 Horizontal Bandsaw. I have been extremely pleased with the purchase and would buy another if something happened to this one. It has taken a fall or two, and one of the switches broke, but I seldom use that switch so I haven't bothered to fix it.



Performance
Out of the box, the saw was nearly perfect. It is important to set the downfeed pressure lever based on the type of metal you are cutting. If you have it set too fast and are cutting thinwall tubing, it will not be straight. If you follow the somewhat cryptic guide on the motor, it will give you straight, clean cuts.

Here is a piece of 1 1/4" 1033 CR round bar. As shown from the top, the cut is very straight.



Here is the same cut shown at 90°.



The off cut itself is as close to perfect as it can be. Here it is measured from where the saw entered, to near where it exited.





The finish on the cut is quite nice as well. This was with a new 10-14 tpi blade that I purchased from sawblade.com.



Here is a test with a piece of 2x2x1/4" steel angle. It was clamped in with the side of the angle down and back. Here are the two sides of the cut.





Improvements and alterations
The saw came with an adjustable stop bar that could be bolted to the side to provide for a repeatable length cut. I didn't want to leave it on all the time, and removing it required lifting the saw and tightening a nut on each side. I made a plate with a threaded hole in it, and mounted this inside the base of the saw.



This bracket is held to the base with four mounting screws.



To keep the bar stable, I made a knurled nut to lock it to the side of the case.



Here is the bar attached, which also shows the replacement Miter Arm Lock Lever I picked up from McMaster to replace the plastic one that broke.



I also made this small roller stand to help balance longer stock on the in feed side.



This saw is accurate and light. I am very limited on my space, and I can easily move it when I need more bench space, and put it in the truck if I need to do some work offsite. The ABS isn't really a required option, but I like having it shut off at the end of a cut. I seriously considered getting the larger ABS 160, but I haven't yet had any situation where the higher capacity would have been necessary.

Lee

 

[rmack898]

Nice write up.
I always thought that was a good saw but never got to see one in person.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

I've got a Femi 782XL and I love it also.

 

[The Cobbler]

nice review
I bought some femi blades on clearance that happen to fit my bandsaw for like $5 each, the regular price on them was crazy expensive. they do look like very good blades, not tried them but I have them for when I do need them

 

[tarmy]

I have had this one for about 5 or 6 years. I love this saw. And, as OP noted they are very accurat.

 

[GeoBruin]

Nice write up. I just picked up the "mama bear" ABS120 used on Craigslist. The guy that had it before did not use it much but he also didn't bother to store it properly when not in use so it has some cosmetic defects but seems to be in generally good working order. The only thing I think could be wrong is that after putting a new blade on it, I tightened the blade tension knob until I literally couldn't turn it any further by hand and it never "clicks" like it's supposed to indicate that the tension is correct. I suspect the clutch mechanism is frozen and I just haven't taken it apart to investigate.

I bought it to replace a Grizzly g9742. The Griz was actually pretty good. It's a hell of a lot more saw than the Femi. It's much larger and cast iron. Where l can easily pick up the Femi and move it around, I used the hoist to move the Grizzly around. I also reeeeaaallly like the true hydraulic resistance adjustment (and lock out) on the down feed. The problem is none of the adjustments that align the blade are indexed. You basically just get it close, tighten the nut down, and hope for the best. And even if you do get it cutting pretty straight, if you try to adjust the sliding blade guide, or move the head, or heaven forbid change the blade, you have to start all over again.

This far, the Femi has cut straight and repeatably with no adjustment. It's also much smaller in a shop where space is at a premium. It's actually small enough it could be easily taken to a job site. For when I'm in the shop, I just picked up this hydraulic motorcycle lift that feels like it was made for the saw. I can adjust it to any working height, roll it anywhere in (or out) of the shop, and when I'm not using it, I can lower it all the way and it fits under my little table.

There are things I will miss about the Griz, but this is just a better fit for me.

 

[RivennHewn]

I have the same saw. Love it.

I drilled a hole to mount the stop on the other side of the saw. Works much better for my brain.

 

[paulsomlo]

The HEM ABS105 and the NG160; is there anyway to modify them to use vertically? The only saws they make that can be used vertically are the 782xl and 784xl, and neither has auto downfeed. And I'm not crazy about the sheet metal base - does it feel solid?

 

[RivennHewn]

I added a stop mount to the other side, it makes shorter repeat cuts easier.

Have to be careful placing it, so the piece falls free.

 

[Augus7us]

Nice review but holy ****. 1200 for a saw that only cuts 4” round stock?

I dont think it will ever be as precise as a solid cold cut saw. You can get a really nice saw for that kind of scratch.

Im sure its a quality machine. Just blown away by the price.

 

[GeoBruin]

Nice review but holy ****. 1200 for a saw that only cuts 4” round stock?

I dont think it will ever be as precise as a solid cold cut saw. You can get a really nice saw for that kind of scratch.

Im sure its a quality machine. Just blown away by the price.

I'm in for one of the nice cold cut saws you've found for $1200. Have a link?

 

[gfd_703]

I have a 782xl and echo your review. I also own an Ellis 2000 and find myself using the 782 on smaller stock and definitely on shorter cuts more often than the Ellis. If I could own only one saw it would be one of the larger Hemsaws but is sure is nice having bot big and little for different jobs.

 

[paulsomlo]

I'm in for one of the nice cold cut saws you've found for $1200. Have a link?

He probably means "dry cut saw".

By the way, GeoBruin - your ABS120; what stops the head from going vertical? I'm wondering if it could be easily modified for both horizontal and vertical use.

 

[Augus7us]

https://www.qualitytoolsonline.ca/products/14-metal-cold-cutting-saw-slugger-by-fein <--$900

I see the big stationary units for sale at auctions cheap quite frequently. I stand by what I said, bandsaws are not ridged precision machines. I have a nice 7x12 and its great but not as precise as a cold cut and while nice, cost much less used. New its in the ballpark of OP's machine.

 

[GeoBruin]

He probably means "dry cut saw".

By the way, GeoBruin - your ABS120; what stops the head from going vertical? I'm wondering if it could be easily modified for both horizontal and vertical use.

It would be tough, at least on the 120.

First and foremost, the bracket with the little mechanism that locks the saw in the uppermost position prevents it from swinging completely vertical. You can remove it with two bolts, but it also holds the auto stop switch which must be removed first (because it impedes access to the bolts) and has its own two screws. You could fab a new bracket that allowed more swing but you would have to relocate the auto stop switch because it would be in the way of lengthening the bracket.

If you managed to figure all that out, the blade shroud (which is the same cast piece that makes up the main body of the saw) makes contact with the base before the saw can swing completely vertical. It actually makes contact with a little dial on the back of the saw, but even if you removed that dial, I think it would still make contact before going completely vertical.

A few crude pictures attached. Dont blame me for the rust. I bought it used.

 

[paulsomlo]

Thanks for the pics, GeoBruin - I see what you mean. The switch/bracket part looks like it could be conquered, but maybe not the interference between shroud and base.

 

[tarbellb]

https://www.qualitytoolsonline.ca/products/14-metal-cold-cutting-saw-slugger-by-fein <--$900

I see the big stationary units for sale at auctions cheap quite frequently. I stand by what I said, bandsaws are not ridged precision machines. I have a nice 7x12 and its great but not as precise as a cold cut and while nice, cost much less used. New its in the ballpark of OP's machine.

Cold cut DOES NOT EQUAL Dry cut


Dry cut is a 14" abrasive saw spinning at 1200 rpm w carbide blade
cost >$1000

Cold cut is a 50rpm hss blade w coolant attached to 800lbs of cast iron
cost $4000+

 

[paulsomlo]

I ended up buying a Dake SE 5x6 rct, which is essentially the HEM NG160ABS. It was on clearance, cost me $1500, including the shipping. Both Dake and Femi confirmed that it's pretty much the same saw, has a "Made in Italy" sticker on it. The cut quality is very nice and it cuts square. It shipped with a 14 tooth blade, and I'm wondering if that's too fine; I'm cutting some 1.25" round mild steel with a 7/16" dia hole in the middle. Would I be better off with a coarser tooth blade? Here's some pics, including a sample cut:

 

[GeoBruin]

Are you cutting solid stock like that consistently or is it just a few cuts? I tend to buy a do-all type blade acknowledging that it won't do everything perfectly but will cut nearly everything. You'll have slower cuts on solid stock but the downside to using a coarse blade on really thin wall tubing is worse than waiting for a cut in solid stock with a fine tooth blade.

I use the hemsaw brand blade with 10 and 14 TPI segments alternating. Maybe that's a good compromise?

 

[paulsomlo]

Are you cutting solid stock like that consistently or is it just a few cuts? I tend to buy a do-all type blade acknowledging that it won't do everything perfectly but will cut nearly everything. You'll have slower cuts on solid stock but the downside to using a coarse blade on really thin wall tubing is worse than waiting for a cut in solid stock with a fine tooth blade.

I use the hemsaw brand blade with 10 and 14 TPI segments alternating. Maybe that's a good compromise?

For now, it's going to be solid stock, as the saw was purchased to support my machining endeavors. I noticed that SawBlade.com is cheaper for blades; any experience with them? Also, the saw shipped with a 0.035" thick blade, but I've seen recommendations for a 0.025" thick blade - thoughts?

 

[tarmy]

Glad you got it home OP!

I use a 10tpi in mine most all of the time…and be careful when staring the motor that the blade isn’t in contact with the work piece…it will tear a couple teeth out…asl me how I know.

 

[paulsomlo]

Glad you got it home OP!

I use a 10tpi in mine most all of the time…and be careful when staring the motor that the blade isn’t in contact with the work piece…it will tear a couple teeth out…asl me how I know.

Actually, I had them deliver it to the house - it was looking like it might be a hassle to get the $50 I paid for residential delivery, refunded. And I'm glad; the truck had a lift gate (which I opted not to pay extra for originally) and a pallet jack. The driver hauled it up my long driveway and put the pallet right outside my back door.

Where are you buying your blades and what thickness are you using?

 

[DerekV]

I’ve had great luck with SawBlade.com. I’ve been running a 8-12 TPI 0.025” Q601 bimetal blade in my 5x6 mitering Grizzly saw for years now. Sounds coarse on paper but it seems to cut everything really well. Still wicked sharp.

 

[tarmy]

Actually, I had them deliver it to the house - it was looking like it might be a hassle to get the $50 I paid for residential delivery, refunded. And I'm glad; the truck had a lift gate (which I opted not to pay extra for originally) and a pallet jack. The driver hauled it up my long driveway and put the pallet right outside my back door.

Where are you buying your blades and what thickness are you using?

I get Hemsaw blades on Amazon…1/2”x .035…6-10 TPI

make sure you run the saw at the right speed for what you are cutting as well.

 

[paulsomlo]

Do the blades have to be reverse welded, or can I just turn them inside out?

 

[tarbellb]

very nice looking saw guy!

Changing the blades on these smaller saws is not a huge hassle for me typically, so I'll switch out when it makes sense.

Keep us posted on the long term usage, lots of members here have been eyeballing that size saw.

 

[paulsomlo]

I took the blade cover off, and I see that the blade's teeth ride on the rubber of the wheels. There is no tracking adjustment, so I'm guessing this is normal? I'm used to my wood vertical bandsaw, where the blade teeth are just off the edge of the wheel.

Also, the forward (toward the operator) blade guide thrust bearing, doesn't touch the back of the blade, not even close, while the rear one is tight enough that after little use, a groove is starting to form.

I timed one of my cuts - 1.25" mild steel with a 7/16" hole through the center took 27 seconds with the 14 tooth blade.

 

[Dan-Oh]

I ended up buying a Dake SE 5x6 rct, which is essentially the HEM NG160ABS. It was on clearance, cost me $1500, including the shipping. Both Dake and Femi confirmed that it's pretty much the same saw, has a "Made in Italy" sticker on it. The cut quality is very nice and it cuts square. It shipped with a 14 tooth blade, and I'm wondering if that's too fine; I'm cutting some 1.25" round mild steel with a 7/16" dia hole in the middle. Would I be better off with a coarser tooth blade? Here's some pics, including a sample cut:

Hello, just joined garage journal after seeing this discussion. I have been looking at the ABS 160 and just Friday found the same saw that you purchased. I had to thought they were the same saw by looking at all the photos on the web. The price difference is huge between the two and it seems you called vendors or was it the manufactures and they confirmed it is the same saw. I see you haven’t had it long, but does it seem like a solid machine? Thank you for any information you can give me on the Dake saw. And I spoke to a guy at Trick tools where I was looking to purchase the Hem saw and he wasn’t too keen on giving me much information about the Dake saw even though they sell both. Probably because they make a lot more off of the Femi than the Dake.

 

[paulsomlo]

Yes, the saw is good - it cuts straight and gives a nice clean cut, no problems with it.

Other than pictures, I did confirm via email with both Dake and Femi that it's essentially the same saw. Trick tools sells Dake bandsaws, but not the SE 5x6, as it would compete with the NG160ABS. I bought it from Mile-X Equipment and paid $1500 on a Saturday, by Monday the price was back up to $2295. Take a look at the SE 5x8 - it also appears to be made by Femi as their 785XL, but only sold in the USA under the Dake label; it's about $1500 and from what I can tell it's the same saw as the SE5x6 without the quick release vise and the gravity downfeed. The weight is about the same, 80lbs. This place appears to have the best price on it: https://www.profishop.us/

 

[paulsomlo]

By the way, here's Femi's website: https://www.femi.it/en/femi/linea-taglio-metallo/segatrici-a-nastro-portatili/

 

[searchresults]

It seems like the real competitor to this saw is the Evolution S355MCS 14" Mitering Chop Saw ($850).
I hate how much they spray chips everywhere though, so I'm still leaning towards a band saw.

I'm still not sure how much better these Dake or HEM saws are than, say, this Baileigh portable band saw, also at $850.

Nice review but holy ****. 1200 for a saw that only cuts 4” round stock?

I dont think it will ever be as precise as a solid cold cut saw. You can get a really nice saw for that kind of scratch.

Im sure its a quality machine. Just blown away by the price.

 

[GeoBruin]

It seems like the real competitor to this saw is the Evolution S355MCS 14" Mitering Chop Saw ($850).
I hate how much they spray chips everywhere though, so I'm still leaning towards a band saw.

I'm still not sure how much better these Dake or HEM saws are than, say, this Baileigh portable band saw, also at $850.

Baliegh link is bad.

 

[paulsomlo]

It seems like the real competitor to this saw is the Evolution S355MCS 14" Mitering Chop Saw ($850).

I think that's apples and oranges.

 

[searchresults]

Thanks, I fixed the Bailiegh link.

What are the functional differences between the bandsaw and the Evolution miter saw?
The miter saw has significant cut capacity -- it can cut 4" square tube at 45 degrees.

There is a lot of overlap between the cuts they'd be used to make. The Evolution would deliver a more precise and square cut. It is louder and messier.

 

[GeoBruin]

Thanks, I fixed the Bailiegh link.

What are the functional differences between the bandsaw and the Evolution miter saw?
The miter saw has significant cut capacity -- it can cut 4" square tube at 45 degrees.

There is a lot of overlap between the cuts they'd be used to make. The Evolution would deliver a more precise and square cut. It is louder and messier.

I don't know if I agree that a TCT saw will necessarily deliver a "more precise and square cut", but in any case, a bandsaw is simply a more versatile and "civilized" tool. Blade material, thickness, tooth count and cutting speeds can be fine tuned to match the material properties and geometry of the part being cut.

Also, you have adjustable blade guides that can be moved closer to the work for smaller parts and further away for larger parts. Between the blade guides and blade tension adjustment, you have a lot of control over the deflection of the blade (or lack therof since modern bimetal blades are designed to be tensioned to 25,000 - 35,000 psi).

A TCT blade has a Kerf of .094". That's more than 3 times wider than than a (relatively) thick .030" bandsaw blade and almost 5 times wider than a .020" blade. Material loss and efficiency of material removal are vastly different.

Bandsaws make flat cuts. If you want to cut half way through something, you can do it as long as you have your angles right. With a round blade, you wind up with a round cut in solid stock.

Anyway, maybe I'm just too partial but I have owned an Evo saw and used it for quite a few projects. But after using a bandsaw, I'll never go back if I can help it.

 

[paulsomlo]

Can the Evo saw cut a 4" solid round in steel?

 

[searchresults]

I'm not sure how it would handle a 4" solid round, but here's a 1.3" hardened shaft.
For larger solid bars, the self-feed option on a bandsaw becomes a massive difference-maker. But it does seem like those are uncommon material sizes for home hobbyists.

Can the Evo saw cut a 4" solid round in steel?

 

[tarbellb]

You really don't want to be sacrificing blades on Dry Cut saws to cutting solid stock.
It can do it, but you'll likely overheat the blade and loose teeth.

GeoBruin did a excellent job breaking down differences, I have also owned both and a band saw really does outshine a dry cut, and even a cold cut if we are talking dollar to dollar machines.

 

[searchresults]

I don't know if I agree that a TCT saw will necessarily deliver a "more precise and square cut", but in any case, a bandsaw is simply a more versatile and "civilized" tool. Blade material, thickness, tooth count and cutting speeds can be fine tuned to match the material properties and geometry of the part being cut.

Also, you have adjustable blade guides that can be moved closer to the work for smaller parts and further away for larger parts. Between the blade guides and blade tension adjustment, you have a lot of control over the deflection of the blade (or lack therof since modern bimetal blades are designed to be tensioned to 25,000 - 35,000 psi).

A TCT blade has a Kerf of .094". That's more than 3 times wider than than a (relatively) thick .030" bandsaw blade and almost 5 times wider than a .020" blade. Material loss and efficiency of material removal are vastly different.

Bandsaws make flat cuts. If you want to cut half way through something, you can do it as long as you have your angles right. With a round blade, you wind up with a round cut in solid stock.

Anyway, maybe I'm just too partial but I have owned an Evo saw and used it for quite a few projects. But after using a bandsaw, I'll never go back if I can help it.

Thanks for sharing!
You talked me off the cliff, I canceled my order for the Evo saw

 

[GeoBruin]

Thanks for sharing!
You talked me off the cliff, I canceled my order for the Evo saw

Oh, man. I'm just some guy on a forum. You can't let me get in your head like that

At the time I purchased my evo saw, it was the right decision for me. It was smaller, cheaper (especially used), and simpler than a bandsaw, and it allowed me to do what I needed to do at the time. It also taught me what to like and not like about the saw. Only once my needs grew and changed, and my willingness to devote more space and money to my ideal metal cutting solution, did I start to hunt for a bandsaw. Even then, I went through a couple to get where I am now and would certainly upgrade if I had even more money and space, but I am consistently impressed with the results I am able to achieve with my little saw. It is among my most used fabrication tools for sure.