Internet and Comm cables from shop to house

[Shovelhead]

Everything I search for and read about is like reading a Japanese newspaper to me. I have no understanding on how all these cables operate the many devices folks use them for.

I‘m at the point of wiring my shop where I need to make a decision on which spare PVC to use to run internet and ??? between shop and new house. Entry point to point of structures 50’ max I’d say.
NOTE: house is not built yet.
My source feed from TELCO will enter the shop.
From there I have a 3/4” and 1 1/4” conduit available to use for telephone, internet and anything else that may be handy to have hardwired between the shop and house. Security cameras? Intercom? It would be much easier to employ the 3/4 if only a couple cables are needed.

About all I know is there will be a modem located in the shop, or house, and likely a router in one or the other.
I understand the cabling for this stuff is CAT 5, CAT 6, etc.

What I do know is I definitely want internet and telephone in the shop. The same for the house and be nice to have the capability to have security cameras in both locations. Running all the network cables throughout the house is another subject.

How many (minimum) of these cables will I need to run between shop and house to have internet, telephone and security cameras? Theres 4 pair of wires in a CAT 6 cable. I read where people are running 3 cables to every room in there house. WTF? Why?

 

[Spud McGee]

A single line of cat6 over that distance is good for 10gbit, which is way overkill for a handful of security cameras and a few computers browsing the internet. Most likely, your bottleneck would be on the switch the cables are plugged into. Most home networking equipment is coming with 100mbit or 1gbit connectors. The higher end home stuff is starting to feature 2.5gbit ports on it. You can go out of your way to order 10gbit network gear, but you aren't likely to just pick up something that supports those speeds from walmart or bestbuy.

A single pull of cat6 is plenty. Its not much more effort to pull 2 of them if you really want to.

I had a spool of direct burial cat6 I used for my house. I ran it outside to the cameras up in the trees and whatnot. It doesnt need to be in any PVC. So far, its holding up fine. When I ran internet out to my shop, I did run it inside the small gray PVC with the preformed male and female ends. I reckon that would be 1/2". I mostly ran it in the pvc cause it was in the same trench as my power.

As far as why somebody would want to run more than 1 cat6 cable to the same room, you could do that if you wanted to plug in more than 1 thing and not require a network switch to act as a splitter. An extra 50ft of cable is cheaper than adding a small switch and then having to keep it plugged into AC power 24/7.

 

[Shovelhead]

Thanks Spud, but.
Gotta tell ya, I have no clue what a network switch is.

I guess my main concern right now is do I really need to waste a spare 1 1/4” conduit for this stuff if the 3/4 will work.

Can it work similar to electrical in that one feed can serve a box with branch circuits?
Like one of these CAT 6 cables between shop and house connected to some gizmo at each end that would serve several different network devices?
Or one cable from modem in shop, or house, ran to some type of distribution box at the other location?

 

[BillK]

NOTE: house is not built yet.
My source feed from TELCO will enter the shop.

Just my opinion but if I was doing it I would want the main feed at the house. I would want the cable modem etc to be easily available rather than having to run out to the shop if there is a reason to reset it etc.

I do understand that the house is not built yet but I would probably set it all up with the intention when all is said and done to have the main feed at the house. If you do that then a single 3/4" should be more than you will ever need.

 

[Spud McGee]

Thanks Spud, but.
Gotta tell ya, I have no clue what a network switch is.

I guess my main concern right now is do I really need to waste a spare 1 1/4” conduit for this stuff if the 3/4 will work.

Can it work similar to electrical in that one feed can serve a box with branch circuits?
Like one of these CAT 6 cables between shop and house connected to some gizmo at each end that would serve several different network devices?
Or one cable from modem in shop, or house, ran to some type of distribution box at the other location?

A switch is a piece of network equipment. You can think of it like a splitter. Run a cable from your house to your shop. In the shop, you plug that cable into a switch, along with 7 other cables. Now whatever you plug into those 7 other cables can communicate back with your house on the other end of the long cable.

Most home networks usually have a modem and then a router that doubles as an access point. On the back of that are like 4 ports to plug in network cables. If you want to plug in more than 4 cables, you're going to be shopping for a switch.

I agree with the above post. I would have the service coming into the house. Put the router, modem, etc there. Then run 1 or 2 cat6 cables out to the shop. If you want a land line, that may need its own cable in there unless you're doing like VOIP. I feel like 1 cat6 cable was more than up to the task. But it isn't much more to run a second one in the same PVC if you really want.

 

[tarmy]

I am upgrading one of my garages and just ran a conduit and have coax, cat 5, separate 2 wire camera wires and a spare 1” conduit for whatever else May need to be pulled. You can see a couple pull poxes. I ran jumper conduit inside the garage to each corner so that I can pull whatever I want where ever I want. There is some temp 110 in there now that gets removed once all the new stuff is heated up.

 

[Innovate1]

I would go with optical fiber between buildings. It avoids electrical voltage/current that can damage equipment during electrical storms. I lost some equipment before I switched to fiber. I would recommend at least 1" conduit so preterminated ends will go through without issue. I did 2 pairs figuring 1 pair for internet and one for spares. Ended up using the spares for isolated cameras. Not an option for POTS (old copper phone line) so you would need to run copper and CAT cable would work for that and have some conductors left for other things.

 

[P0234]

It all depends on how you are setting things up, you can all make it work on a single cable but having multiple cables gives you different options. That said if you are within 50 ft of the house and not in a very wifi dense area (lot of houses), wireless will work great too. However, if I was 50 feet away, I'd bury some thick conduit, drop two cat6 wires in it and be done.

 

[Shovelhead]

Just my opinion but if I was doing it I would want the main feed at the house. I would want the cable modem etc to be easily available rather than having to run out to the shop if there is a reason to reset it etc.

I do understand that the house is not built yet but I would probably set it all up with the intention when all is said and done to have the main feed at the house. If you do that then a single 3/4" should be more than you will ever need.

that was my thinking as well but more so for a more robust connection, but after talking to TELCO tech he said it wouldn’t matter if modem was in shop or house as far as signal strength.

However, thank you very much for rattling my brain about resetting or power cycling the modem. Way better to have it in the house.
I’ll run the source feed in to the shop and out to the house, then bring the shop feed back from the house. Which means now there will be a minimum of 2 cables in the conduit I use.

Source feed has to go through the shop due to my road and water line. I’ve already ran a 3/4 conduit from my transformer pole under my road to the shop.

 

[Spud McGee]

That said if you are within 50 ft of the house and not in a very wifi dense area (lot of houses), wireless will work great too.

Not the case for me. My metal building in the back yard is pretty good as blocking the wifi from my house. I had great signal directly outside the shop, and then the connection would drop completely when I went inside. I had to plug in an access point out there.

 

[Shovelhead]

A switch is a piece of network equipment. You can think of it like a splitter. Run a cable from your house to your shop. In the shop, you plug that cable into a switch, along with 7 other cables. Now whatever you plug into those 7 other cables can communicate back with your house on the other end of the long cable.

Most home networks usually have a modem and then a router that doubles as an access point. On the back of that are like 4 ports to plug in network cables. If you want to plug in more than 4 cables, you're going to be shopping for a switch.

I agree with the above post. I would have the service coming into the house. Put the router, modem, etc there. Then run 1 or 2 cat6 cables out to the shop. If you want a land line, that may need its own cable in there unless you're doing like VOIP. I feel like 1 cat6 cable was more than up to the task. But it isn't much more to run a second one in the same PVC if you really want.

Man I sure appreciate you dumbing it down for me. That helps tremendously.

 

[Shovelhead]

Same here. Shop is all steel. Same as our last place. Tried one of those WiFi extender jobs and it never worked but 6’ past the window it was sitting in.

We are in the woods, hunnerd foot pine trees and have no fiber. No cell service.

 

[zcar751]

I used a Netgear AC1200 wifi extender because I have a metal building and didn't want to have to bury 150' of cable. It piggy backs off the electrical circuits and give me enough to watch Netflx or Youtube in the shop.

 

[Highbeam]

Run the extra cat 6. It's cheap. I just paid 10 cents a foot for non-direct bury cat6 in a 500 foot spool.

 

[Shovelhead]

Run the extra cat 6. It's cheap. I just paid 10 cents a foot for non-direct bury cat6 in a 500 foot spool.

Extra for what? And extra meaning how many more than 1?

Another question for y’all considering using the 3/4 or 1 1/4” conduit.
They “say” that they’re working on getting fiber optic in our area. I may be dead before that happens, but if it does would that change the decision on what size conduit I choose?
Or would it be as simple as using the CAT6 as a pull string for the fiber?

I know not just anybody can terminate fiber optic cables.

 

[Highbeam]

Extra for what? And extra meaning how many more than 1?

Another question for y’all considering using the 3/4 or 1 1/4” conduit.
They “say” that they’re working on getting fiber optic in our area. I may be dead before that happens, but if it does would that change the decision on what size conduit I choose?
Or would it be as simple as using the CAT6 as a pull string for the fiber?

I know not just anybody can terminate fiber optic cables.

You're right, just pointing out to others that if you think you might need it for anything, this is a cheap wire. I personally only need one run from house to shop and it's going into 1" conduit.

I'm right there with you learning about switches, access points, routers, DHCP, how to terminate the cat6, etc.

 

[Shovelhead]

Ok thanks

 

[P0234]

Not the case for me. My metal building in the back yard is pretty good as blocking the wifi from my house. I had great signal directly outside the shop, and then the connection would drop completely when I went inside. I had to plug in an access point out there.

Yeah good point, if there are no windows wireless might not work well.

 

[75gmck25]

Once you get wires run from a router or switch to the Cat 6 wall plugs, or turn on your wireless network, most of the rest will happen automatically as you connect equipment. Post #5 gives you the high level view of how it works on the physical level with the cables.

- All internet-capable devices have a MAC address/identifier, which is unique to that device. The manufacturer hard-codes that identifier into the device and it never changes.
- All devices used on the internet also need an IP (internet protocol) address, which is more or less equivalent to a phone number.

- Most cable modems and wireless routers have the ability to assign (or map) IP addresses to any device/MAC address on the local network. They also keep track of all the IP addresses, and how to route traffic to each device and/or to the global internet.
- When you connect a device to the network the router/modem will automatically identify an available local IP address and assign it to the new device. You usually do not have to do anything. This is DHCP (Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol) for your local network. DHCP sends the device an IP address, the address of the device/gateway connection to the internet, etc.

- The IP address is usually dynamic (it could change from day to day), but that is all handled by the modem/router. The one exception to the dynamic IP assignment is for devices that need a static (always the same) IP address, but that is a relatively uncommon situation. In that case you will have to pick an IP address and set it manually for that device.

Another point is that when you buy network equipment you will be able to choose between routers and switches with various numbers of ports. The very simple rule is that for high speed or continuous streaming needs (maybe remote video?), a switch will work much better. They are usually not much more expensive than a router.

 

[PassnThru]

A switch is a piece of network equipment. You can think of it like a splitter.

A very good explanation. You can also think of it as an electrical panel for a detached garage. You don't run cables from the house for each circuit - you run a main cable - hook it to a panel and run your circuits from it. The same with a switch. Switches are even easier though - you run out of ports you just buy a bigger switch.
Much like the electrical wire you run from the house to the garage - there is a limit on how much it can carry. For the foreseeable future running CAT6 will be sufficient as currently switches in that speed range are still expensive. Unless you are transferring a lot of data between PCs in the house and the garage then your incoming internet connection speed is the limiter.
Fiber optic would be nice but the equipment is still expensive. If you have conduit then you can always pull it later to replace the CAT6 once the component prices come down.
Understand that once you run a wire to the detached garage then wireless will be available there also without relying on the wireless from the house. You can run another wireless router in the garage - give it a fixed IP address and turn DHCP off and you're good to go. Wireless extenders are available but it's usually cheaper to just buy another wireless router and use it just for the WiFi and as another switch. It's likely got enough ports already that it's all you need to connect to the house - give you wireless - and connect other hardwired devices.
Usually people run two cables just for redundancy - in case a problem develops with the original cable you can switch to the other one. It isn't hooked up - if you did it wouldn't gain anything. Sort of like running two electrical lines from the house to the garage with both of them hooked to the same breaker in the same panel.

 

[Spud McGee]

A very good explanation. You can also think of it as an electrical panel for a detached garage. You don't run cables from the house for each circuit - you run a main cable - hook it to a panel and run your circuits from it. The same with a switch. Switches are even easier though - you run out of ports you just buy a bigger switch.

Or if you dont have enough forethought like some of us, you buy an 8 port switch and max it out. Then you buy another 8 port switch to put coming off one port of the first one and max that second switch out. Then eventually you go buy something in the double digits.

 

[Norcal]

Instead of the 3/4" spare use 1", although PVC conduit is not cheap like in the past, once buried it is hard to change & keep bends to a minimum the cable pull will be much easier.

 

[theoldwizard1]

My source feed from TELCO will enter the shop.

Why do you have any kind of wired telephone service ? I use my own VOIP device and Google Voice. $0/month !

About all I know is there will be a modem located in the shop, or house, and likely a router in one or the other.

Assuming you are getting Internet from your cable company, you need 2 routers, one in each building.

Conduits do not stay dry. Use cable that is rated for wer conditions. CAT6 cable is usually thicker (lower wire gauge) than CAT5.

 

[shade]

You do not need 2 routers.
Bury 2 sets of cat 6. Place your modem and router wherever you like - doesn't matter
If you put in the house you have both the modem and router in the house. The buried connection will run from the shop to the house. You can use a network switch at both ends.
You now know what a network switch is. If you can spend the extra money get 10gb switches - something like this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09LNLMH9Y/?tag=atomicindus08-20

the way networks work is simple. The network will only operate at the speed of the slowest connection.
if you have a 10gb switch in the shop and a 1gb in the house - 1gb is all you will get
The link i posted above the switch has 2 10gb ports and several slower ports
if you get 2 of those you would connect the shop and house over the 10gb ports.

you can connect other devices into the 2.5 gb ports.

I build data centers for a living and when I have time consulting. This is what I would recommend for a client. Cost effective and allows you to have good bandwidth between shop and house.
you can then put access points in the shop connected directly to the shop switch and an access point(s) in the house connected to the house switch.

Hope this helps

 

[Shovelhead]

You do not need 2 routers.
Bury 2 sets of cat 6. Place your modem and router wherever you like - doesn't matter
If you put in the house you have both the modem and router in the house. The buried connection will run from the shop to the house. You can use a network switch at both ends.
You now know what a network switch is. If you can spend the extra money get 10gb switches - something like this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09LNLMH9Y/?tag=atomicindus08-20

the way networks work is simple. The network will only operate at the speed of the slowest connection.
if you have a 10gb switch in the shop and a 1gb in the house - 1gb is all you will get
The link i posted above the switch has 2 10gb ports and several slower ports
if you get 2 of those you would connect the shop and house over the 10gb ports.

you can connect other devices into the 2.5 gb ports.

I build data centers for a living and when I have time consulting. This is what I would recommend for a client. Cost effective and allows you to have good bandwidth between shop and house.
you can then put access points in the shop connected directly to the shop switch and an access point(s) in the house connected to the house switch.

Hope this helps

Beautiful. Thank you sir.
When you say bury 2 "sets" of CAT 6, is that 2 CAT6 cables? or?

Appreciate all y'alls help. Believe I've pert near got it figured out.
I'd much rather be ridin motorcycles or fishin than fiddling with cyber stuff.

 

[djbmw]

Since you're building new, I would also STRONGLY suggest your main line in goes to the house FIRST. At the very least, have the Teleco run a fiber line to where you plan on placing the home. This will ensure the resale value of your home is high when it comes to it's 'internet appeal'. NOW you can look at how to run the line from your home to your shop. Since your internet usage would be low, a simple wireless point to point system would be simple (Ubiquity makes nice equipment for this). However, if the shop needed major amounts of bandwidth in the future (likely for the next owner), then running either CAT6e in a conduit would be good (future owners could also pull a fiber line in if your conduit is smooth).

 

[Spud McGee]

You do not need 2 routers.
Bury 2 sets of cat 6. Place your modem and router wherever you like - doesn't matter
If you put in the house you have both the modem and router in the house. The buried connection will run from the shop to the house. You can use a network switch at both ends.
You now know what a network switch is. If you can spend the extra money get 10gb switches - something like this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09LNLMH9Y/?tag=atomicindus08-20

the way networks work is simple. The network will only operate at the speed of the slowest connection.
if you have a 10gb switch in the shop and a 1gb in the house - 1gb is all you will get
The link i posted above the switch has 2 10gb ports and several slower ports
if you get 2 of those you would connect the shop and house over the 10gb ports.

you can connect other devices into the 2.5 gb ports.

I build data centers for a living and when I have time consulting. This is what I would recommend for a client. Cost effective and allows you to have good bandwidth between shop and house.
you can then put access points in the shop connected directly to the shop switch and an access point(s) in the house connected to the house switch.

Hope this helps

The part in bold is important. Does OP have any computers or other network gear that have faster than a 1gbit port on them? Many IP cameras are still coming with 100mbit ports, even the HD ones. A 2.5gb port would be completely wasted on those.

If you dont have any computers or cameras capable of 10 or even 2.5gbit, you dont see a ton of benefit from having the network than can support it. At least you'll be future proofed a bit. In 5-10 years, you may eventually have something to make use of those speeds.

 

[paredown]

Agree with the 'couple of Cat6s' sentiment -- the trouble with fiber is that you can't do it as an amateur, whereas anyone who has made an electrical connection and can use hand tools (and can read a simple circuit diagram) can pick up a cheap set of tools and do their own terminations. (You'll need a stripper, a crimper, and a toner to check your work as you go--easy peasy.)

I also agree that the entry point should be the house, and then back run to the shop. And your router (for most home setups) should be first connection, since it provides the firewall/security if you are not using a supplemental device. On the houses we have built. we started making provision for a digital 'center' -- we used to use the boxes made by LEVITON, and we would pull cable to the obvious locations (typically one Coax and one Cat5) before the walls were close up. Most big home builders are doing some version of this now--because the alternative is that the gorillas from the Telco/Cable company come and start punching holes and doing a **** job.

So:
Demarc (Internet provider box) > Router > Switch > Locations/Devices (which are typically 'home runs', ie direct connections.)

What I have also done -- since I was unsure of what we would be doing in our own house -- is leave an extra empty conduit with a couple of pull strings in them (in case you want to change/add something later) and in places where you never want to dig up again, pull a spare wire (or two) is always good practice, whether network or electrical.

 

[Innovate1]

Extra for what? And extra meaning how many more than 1?

Another question for y’all considering using the 3/4 or 1 1/4” conduit.
They “say” that they’re working on getting fiber optic in our area. I may be dead before that happens, but if it does would that change the decision on what size conduit I choose?
Or would it be as simple as using the CAT6 as a pull string for the fiber?

I know not just anybody can terminate fiber optic cables.

I think 1" should be good for almost anything you want to run for low voltage. I would run fiber optic between buildings regardless of what cable or fiber your internet provider uses. And you can buy preterminated cables in custom lengths. That's what I did. I also bent my own long sweep bends for power and internet conduits to make pulling easier.

 

[Metal-Marc]

I would go with optical fiber between buildings. It avoids electrical voltage/current that can damage equipment during electrical storms. I lost some equipment before I switched to fiber. I would recommend at least 1" conduit so preterminated ends will go through without issue. I did 2 pairs figuring 1 pair for internet and one for spares. Ended up using the spares for isolated cameras. Not an option for POTS (old copper phone line) so you would need to run copper and CAT cable would work for that and have some conductors left for other things.

Fiber optic is the way to go. Copper lines in between buildings is a big no-no.

 

[Denwood]

Is your Telco also your internet provider? You've said the shop is being built first, and Telco will do their access in your shop. If so, they will likely run fibre to an ONT (call it a fibre box) which will have a small battery backup for power, a network port for a modem which they will provide, and connections for an old school phone (POTS).

For 50 feet, and to keep things simple, I'd run 2 or 3 CAT6 cables. That way you've not a network cable, a spare, and another for your POTS (old school phones). You can run 4 phone lines on a CAT6 cable has it has 4 wire pairs inside.

When the house is built, you'll just plug everything from the house into a network switch and connect that to your shop (one of the ISPs modem network ports) via one of the CAT6 cables.

 

[Shovelhead]

Is your Telco also your internet provider? You've said the shop is being built first, and Telco will do their access in your shop. If so, they will likely run fibre to an ONT (call it a fibre box) which will have a small battery backup for power, a network port for a modem which they will provide, and connections for an old school phone (POTS).

For 50 feet, and to keep things simple, I'd run 2 or 3 CAT6 cables. That way you've not a network cable, a spare, and another for your POTS (old school phones). You can run 4 phone lines on a CAT6 cable has it has 4 wire pairs inside.

When the house is built, you'll just plug everything from the house into a network switch and connect that to your shop (one of the ISPs modem network ports) via one of the CAT6 cables.

Yes. TELCO is the internet provider. Only game in town. No other option except some satelite outfit.
It's all copper phone lines. No fiber available. Yet. They say it's coming, someday. My old man told me years ago that someday never comes.

Don't believe the box they install has any battery BU or modem ports. It's a simple telephone box. They call it a dry box.
Just has the terminals for phone line connections. Telephone cable runs from box to a phone jack inside the house. Split it from there for land line and modem.

 

[shade]

Beautiful. Thank you sir.
When you say bury 2 "sets" of CAT 6, is that 2 CAT6 cables? or?

Appreciate all y'alls help. Believe I've pert near got it figured out.
I'd much rather be ridin motorcycles or fishin than fiddling with cyber stuff.

Two runs of cat 6 cables.
One fails in the future you already have another pulled

 

[CraigStu]

I would install two Cat6 cables and a pull string. just to try to future proof for problems and upgrades as much as you can. I'd also think about the larger conduit but I 'think' you have already buried the 3/4 so it will probably be OK. My reason for preferring larger is that as far as I know fiber optic cable you have to buy w/ the ends already factory installed. You cannot just run plain cable through the conduit and install the ends afterwards. Buy heck, if FO becomes available, and if you had to run a new conduit, it is not the end of the world.

 

[Shovelhead]

You do not need 2 routers.
Bury 2 sets of cat 6. Place your modem and router wherever you like - doesn't matter
If you put in the house you have both the modem and router in the house. The buried connection will run from the shop to the house. You can use a network switch at both ends.
You now know what a network switch is. If you can spend the extra money get 10gb switches - something like this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09LNLMH9Y/?tag=atomicindus08-20

the way networks work is simple. The network will only operate at the speed of the slowest connection.
if you have a 10gb switch in the shop and a 1gb in the house - 1gb is all you will get
The link i posted above the switch has 2 10gb ports and several slower ports
if you get 2 of those you would connect the shop and house over the 10gb ports.

you can connect other devices into the 2.5 gb ports.

I build data centers for a living and when I have time consulting. This is what I would recommend for a client. Cost effective and allows you to have good bandwidth between shop and house.
you can then put access points in the shop connected directly to the shop switch and an access point(s) in the house connected to the house switch.

Hope this helps

Thank you much.
It's now game time for the house wiring. Electrician supposed to start this week.

What I'm still unclear on is ---- most all of it really. LOL I need a wiring diagram / schematic for dummies. LOL
The cat 6 cables I need to run from a central location in the house, which is where the modem/router/switch gizmo sits that's connected to the ISP.
I read where folks say they use three or four cat 6 cables(basically one ethernet cable each) to where their main living room tv is located. For what? I'm trying to figure out what exactly I would connect to these cables besides a "smart" tv.
I'll need a coax there for sure as my main tv service is via Dish network and fubo tv.

We don't play video games, we have one laptop compooter. two iphones and two ipads. I do have an old DVD player.
I want hard wired connections for internet wherever we have a tv, which is living room, kitchen, back porch, and two bedrooms. The MAIN reason for hard wire instead of wifi for tv's is because I want a ton of ballgames., and the little circle doing hot laps in the middle of the 9th inning drives me F'n nutts.
I want hard wire connections, or cable available in the eaves of the house for security cameras. What kind I have no clue.

From my reading I also think I need to run this cat 6 cable to a couple of wifi access points in the ceiling. One in the living room and one on the back porch. House is single story 1800 sq ft.

making my head spin
help please....
Thanks

 

[theoldwizard1]

Thank you much.
It's now game time for the house wiring. Electrician supposed to start this week.

What I'm still unclear on is ---- most all of it really. LOL I need a wiring diagram / schematic for dummies. LOL
The cat 6 cables I need to run from a central location in the house, which is where the modem/router/switch gizmo sits that's connected to the ISP

This is still 100% correct today !

Apr 7, 2023
A single line of cat6 over that distance is good for 10gbit, which is way overkill for a handful of security cameras and a few computers browsing the internet. Most likely, your bottleneck would be on the switch the cables are plugged into.

1 Gbit is PLENTY ! After that, the price goes up A LOT !

One Cat 6 to each out building. At each outbuilding you need a router or a Wireless Access Point (WAP). Most routers have a WAP builtin as well as 4 hardwired points. Put one in each out building. Make sure the WAP does at least WiFi 5 (a.k.a. 802.11ac). Wifi 6 would be better (802.11ax), but much of the end devices still don't use it, and it is expensive (i.e. a waste of money).

I want hard wired connections for internet wherever we have a tv, which is living room, kitchen, back porch, and two bedrooms. The MAIN reason for hard wire instead of wifi for tv's is because I want a ton of ballgames., and the little circle doing hot laps in the middle of the 9th inning drives me F'n nutts.

There are 2 reason you are getting video "pausing". Either the feed from the street is too slow (which could also be an upstream issue) or the wireless connections from your router/WAP to you TV streaming device is weak or slow.

What kind of streaming device are you using ? Maybe it is time to upgrade those ! We use Amazon 4K Fire TV sticks. I think our router/WAP is 802.11ac. We regularly run 3 or more streams, PLUS other Internet traffic WITH NO ISSUES ! (No 4K TVs.)

Hard wire is DEAD to end devices. If you have a large house or very thick walls, you probably need multiple WAPs, spread out around the house. Those should be hard wired ! Stay away from wireless repeaters.

Try to stay with one brand (after first router connected to the coax from the street). Less finger pointing if you have an issue.

As for telephone, research Voice Over Internet Protocol (VOIP). Your old fashioned phone connects to a box that connects to your router. Cheap. The newer ones work very well. After buying the box, most services are less than $10/month (some are $0/month!) plus local/state/federal taxes and surcharges. Unlimited voice in the US. Cheap overseas rates. Most now will let you hook up old fashioned FAX or burglar alarms.

FYI - The Amazon 4K Fire TV sticks will go on sale before the end of the years. BIG discounts !

 

[CrabShack]

For my detached garage, 200’ from main house, I ran just a single Cat6 cable through conduit that I buried in the same trench as the electrical line going to the detached garage. That Cat6 cable goes from a port on my main house router to a small netgear R6080 router in my detached garage which broadcasts more than enough wifi for TV or whatever else I want to use out there. Before I drywalled my garage I also ran a couple of Cat6 cable runs from the back of the detached garage router to a couple spots and installed wall plates. I also mounted a HD antenna in the attic portion of the garage and ran a couple of coaxial cables to where I wanted to mount my tv.

 

[86turbodsl]

OP is deep into lightning territory. I've said this before in these types of threads, but this really needs to be an optical solution. If there's any amount of distance at all, with buried cat5/6 cable, you're at major impulse risk for frying expensive equipment on both ends of a low voltage line in lightning country. I did fiber on my shop, for less than $100. Shopped ebay. No issues in over 20 years.

 

[Shovelhead]

OP is deep into lightning territory. I've said this before in these types of threads, but this really needs to be an optical solution. If there's any amount of distance at all, with buried cat5/6 cable, you're at major impulse risk for frying expensive equipment on both ends of a low voltage line in lightning country. I did fiber on my shop, for less than $100. Shopped ebay. No issues in over 20 years.

I got no problem doing fiber between shop and house as long as the cable is terminated. I suspect the equipment it connects to may differ from running cat6 end to end.
But that is not my question, questions.

Thanks

 

[Shovelhead]

This is still 100% correct today !

1 Gbit is PLENTY ! After that, the price goes up A LOT !

One Cat 6 to each out building. At each outbuilding you need a router or a Wireless Access Point (WAP). Most routers have a WAP builtin as well as 4 hardwired points. Put one in each out building. Make sure the WAP does at least WiFi 5 (a.k.a. 802.11ac). Wifi 6 would be better (802.11ax), but much of the end devices still don't use it, and it is expensive (i.e. a waste of money).

There are 2 reason you are getting video "pausing". Either the feed from the street is too slow (which could also be an upstream issue) or the wireless connections from your router/WAP to you TV streaming device is weak or slow.

What kind of streaming device are you using ? Maybe it is time to upgrade those ! We use Amazon 4K Fire TV sticks. I think our router/WAP is 802.11ac. We regularly run 3 or more streams, PLUS other Internet traffic WITH NO ISSUES ! (No 4K TVs.)

Hard wire is DEAD to end devices. If you have a large house or very thick walls, you probably need multiple WAPs, spread out around the house. Those should be hard wired ! Stay away from wireless repeaters.

Try to stay with one brand (after first router connected to the coax from the street). Less finger pointing if you have an issue.

As for telephone, research Voice Over Internet Protocol (VOIP). Your old fashioned phone connects to a box that connects to your router. Cheap. The newer ones work very well. After buying the box, most services are less than $10/month (some are $0/month!) plus local/state/federal taxes and surcharges. Unlimited voice in the US. Cheap overseas rates. Most now will let you hook up old fashioned FAX or burglar alarms.

FYI - The Amazon 4K Fire TV sticks will go on sale before the end of the years. BIG discounts !

Don’t follow your talk about outbuildings.
The video pausing is likely from a sucky ISP.
We use fire sticks.

What do you mean hard wire is DEAD to end devices ???
I was schooled years ago that a hard wire connection from modem to my compooter or tv will ALWAYS be better. I still maintain that thought.
But maybe these days the wifi stuff is just as good, but still many home network nerds claim the wired connection is the best.

My questions are still there per post # 35

Thanks