Sloped Patio for Outdoor Kitchen

[QtheGenius]

I'm currently making plans for building an outdoor kitchen with metal framing. Between where the kitchen will go and the inground pool, there is a drain in the patio, but the slope is similar to a shower where the slope isn't in a single direction. To help keep the countertop level, what's my best bet for accomplishing this? I can't grind down the concrete, and I'd rather not try to build it slanted and cut the top of the framing posts to be level within themselves. Can I use beefy adjustable feet, like on the bottom of an oven, like massive elevator bolts, to adjust the height of the framing where the major posts are, or is there another method I should consider for keeping the countertops/grill surfaces flat?

 

[p00p]

what I'd do is figure out the weight of the unit that needs leveling & lurk around for adjustable pegs/legs/feet that will support (with additional load) the unit under the most weighted conditions.

 

[larry4406]

Here's a bump for you as I hope to be doing similar soon.

I have seen various web sites and videos where some have adjustable feet. Others use framing of differing heights to take out the pitch to make counter tops level. Several of the sources put the metal stud framing sill plate on top of a piece of composite decking (with bottom grooves) so that there are drainage channels under the metal framing.

 

[jetranger]

When I did my outdoor kitchen, I used all 1x1 square tubing and welded it all together. The best thing you can use is a cheap laser level to get your height differentials at different points on your concrete. From there, its simple math to add or subtract those differentials for each vertical support.

If you are going against a house or other flat surface, attach your header to the height you want your counter and do all measurements from that.

 

[Improved700]

Very nice !!!
What did you cover the steel with?
Is that cement board?

 

[QtheGenius]

Jet, that looks great. Mine won't be going against a wall, and I don't have/don't know how to weld. I'll be using metal framing, so Larry's agreement of adjustable feet is more than likely what I'll do.

 

[jetranger]

Very nice !!!
What did you cover the steel with?
Is that cement board?

Yes, just normal hardibacker so it will hold the one coat of stucco.

 

[QtheGenius]

Reviving this as I continue to think about it. Even if I do use adjustable feet, the bottom track wouldn't be parallel to the top track. So my next thought was to frame off the area, and pour self leveler in segments so I'd have a nice "flat" surface to build upon. I'll probably put down an outline of Trex that I screw through the leveler into the underlying slab, then mount the framing track to the Trex. From eyeballing it, it would go from a feathering thickness to 2-3" thick over 17-18 feet in length. As stated, I'll probably break it into 4 segments/pours so I'll have some drainage gaps between.

I've seen a product Ardex K 301 amongst others, but wanted to get feedback of using leveler on existing concrete. With this approach, is it sound, or what else should I consider?

 

[duneslider]

I would just use adjustable feet, frankly, you can just use regular bolts as the feet if you are on a hard surface like concrete. The expensive feet do nothing but give a wider base and maybe an anchor hole. I make my own feet for large equipment at work all the time. If they don't need to be anchored down we just use a bolt. Makes it easy to get a wrench on to adjust and is super cheap. If we need to anchor it we weld a plate with some holes to the bolt head. The proof load of a 3/8" bolt is over 2000lbs.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

I'd build the legs an inch or so long, set the thing in place, level it with shims, then run around with a sharpie on a riser marking where the legs need cut. Home Depot has rubber glue on feet that have good grip and take up some surface variation.

 

[mogandave]

I would just use adjustable feet, frankly, you can just use regular bolts as the feet if you are on a hard surface like concrete. The expensive feet do nothing but give a wider base and maybe an anchor hole. I make my own feet for large equipment at work all the time. If they don't need to be anchored down we just use a bolt. Makes it easy to get a wrench on to adjust and is super cheap. If we need to anchor it we weld a plate with some holes to the bolt head. The proof load of a 3/8" bolt is over 2000lbs.

I like stainless carriage bolts for feet, and it the load is heavy a stainless washer under it.

 

[QtheGenius]

So I'm going to pull on this adjustable feet thought. If I'm using metal framing, the bottom track is fairly thin, so a bolt through it would event just break through. If I re-enforce just there the foot goes through with thicker metal, I'd still need to tap it, which I'm not sure I have access to. how would I address this?

 

[mogandave]

So I'm going to pull on this adjustable feet thought. If I'm using metal framing, the bottom track is fairly thin, so a bolt through it would event just break through. If I re-enforce just there the foot goes through with thicker metal, I'd still need to tap it, which I'm not sure I have access to. how would I address this?

You don't have to tap, you can just use a nut and washer/fender-washer under the bottom track.

 

[QtheGenius]

Fair point. How far apart should these be, at every 90 degree track intersection?

 

[VitalSigns]

I'm doing a square tube framed build (using a modular kit made for outdoor kitchens) and the company that sells the kits also sell heavy duty leveling feet...they recommend a set of four feet (about 6" in from where the corners would be) for every 4' section of base cabinet. I just have a straight run of cabinet but if I had an L or U shaped kitched I'd tothem at 90 deg turn as well.