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Update: Trying to fix Craftsman floor jack--Done!

BikeRider

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My several year old so-so basic Craftsman floor jack (the kind that's basically a generic sold under many brands) has been leaking so I'm trying to fix it and have taken most of it apart except for the large "cap" where the piston that raises the car exits. It has a 47mm hex nut for which I have no tool that can remove it. I thought I had a large enough pipe wrench but I can't find it. I don't want to spend too much on one because I'll rarely use it, but it has to be decent enough to get this job done. I saw that Harbor Freight has an 18" steel pipe wrench with a 2-1/4" jaw which should work, but I'm wondering if it's any good. I'd prefer to use a crescent wrench but those are hard to find in this size and expensive.

Ideally I'd get a "real" floor jack, but not only do they tend to be expensive (at least the kind I'd want to get, with at least 16" of max height), but heavy, and since I don't have a garage or ground floor storage and live in a walkup apartment, anything much over 50lb just isn't going to cut it. There are decent aluminum ones that go up to 16-18" and weigh around 40lb, but they're well over $200 which is just too rich for me right now, and most of my major car work will be done by summer's end at which point it'll mostly just collect dust and be used for oil changes and tire rotations and minor maintenance.
 
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driftpin

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That 18" wrench even w/a 'cheater' pipe I suspect won't get enough of a good bite to allow removal of that gland nut. Why don't you take it to a machine shop and ask 'em to break it loose?

I have the HFT 24" aluminum pipe wrench I needed for a well service issue, it did what I needed.
 
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BikeRider

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That 18" wrench even w/a 'cheater' pipe I suspect won't get enough of a good bite to allow removal of that gland nut. Why don't you take it to a machine shop and ask 'em to break it loose?
Because they'll charge me more than what I paid for the jack! :LOL:

I paid around $45 and shops around here charge just that before tax, for pressing using a hydraulic press. So I've learned to DIY when possible. I have a vice that can secure the body to, and a cheater pipe. I've seen them do it in YT videos with what appeared to be just a wrench of this size. What I'd really prefer is to find a loaner 47 or 47mm deep socket and remove it with my impact, but those tend to be 3/4" and not loaned at auto stores, and my impacts are 3/8" and 1/2".

I probably should just splurge and get a better jack, but I hate not being able to fix something, plus eventually I'll have to fix even a better jack and be back to square one, so might as well get the right tools now.
 

nadogail

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I have found the Harbor Freight steel pipe wrenches adequate for all of my non professional needs. I have no experience with their aluminum pipe wrenches.
 
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BikeRider

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I have found the Harbor Freight steel pipe wrenches adequate for all of my non professional needs. I have no experience with their aluminum pipe wrenches.
Thanks. For the few times I'd likely use it I don't really need the lighter weight of aluminum, but I'm kind of leery of their strength under load and repeated use, especially if I bang on them for impact-style removals.
 

qqzj

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I recently gave up this effort for the same reason. A repair kit is almost $50. Not worth it. If you sell the leaky one for $30, you can get a good one for $80.

If you really want to repair. Can you get a 47mm 1/2 socket and use an impact wrench?
 
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BikeRider

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I recently gave up this effort for the same reason. A repair kit is almost $50. Not worth it. If you sell the leaky one for $30, you can get a good one for $80.

If you really want to repair. Can you get a 47mm 1/2 socket and use an impact wrench?
See above regarding the socket. And no need for a repair kit as it just needed a new o-ring and oil. I figure that I might as well take it all apart to clean everything and see if the piston seals need replacement too.

Also, I stupidly put the smaller ball bearing in the release valve bore and tightened the valve, which jammed the ball deep inside so now the only way to get it out is to remove the piston to poke it out from the inside.

In terms of my time this is absolutely not worth it but once I start something I'm determined to finish it, plus I like to fix things and this is a good way to learn how these things work.
 

mrvm

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Amazon has several 47mm sockets to choose from $27-40 and pickup a impact rated 3/4" > 1/2" adapter
 
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BikeRider

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Amazon has several 47mm sockets to choose from $27-40 and pickup a impact rated 3/4" > 1/2" adapter

Combined that would be more than the jack cost me :p and it would be for a once every few years use.

If you have air tools(specifically air hammer) unscrew with that. Works great for cracking big nuts loose.

I have several cordless impact wrenches but not a matching socket or adapter. Not worth it for such rare use. I'll either buy that wrench and see if it works or see if someone I know has a big enough wrench for this. But at $10 ($7 on sale) this pipe wrench seems worth having around, especially for suspension work.
 

mrvm

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But at $10 ($7 on sale) this pipe wrench seems worth having around, especially for suspension work.
Unless all my tools were stolen or power was unavailable I'd never use a pipe wrench on a suspension nut or any nut that would be reused
 

vwpieces

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for 14 bux I'd get the Pitt 24in.
You may also need to apply some heat to the gland nut to get it off without too much damage from the wrench. I've had an occasional stubborn one. That said... Do you have a full seal kit on hand? Good sealant for the outer housing too, top and bottom.
 
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BikeRider

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Unless all my tools were stolen or power was unavailable I'd never use a pipe wrench on a suspension nut or any nut that would be reused
I'd only use it in extreme situations where nothing else works and I'm sacrificing the nut or bolt, for leverage. Breaker bars even with cheater pipes flex and can snap, especially at the u-joint, while a pipe wrench, unless total junk, won't bend or snap under similar torque, even if you pound on it with a sledgehammer.
for 14 bux I'd get the Pitt 24in.
You may also need to apply some heat to the gland nut to get it off without too much damage from the wrench. I've had an occasional stubborn one. That said... Do you have a full seal kit on hand? Good sealant for the outer housing too, top and bottom.
The 18" was the one I was leaning towards but I wasn't going to buy anything till I was in the store and had a chance to take a look at each. And, no seal kit but I'll wait till I have everything apart to determine what needs replacement. I've only had it a few years and only one of the o-rings I've looked at need replacement, so I'm hoping that the piston seals and rings are still good. What kind of sealant should I use when putting the gland nut back on?
 

vwpieces

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Gland nut may have seals inside and out. It's the base of the housing to cast iron that definitely will need sealant. I used Permatex Right Stuff on the last power unit I rebuilt.

Make certain that bearing seat is not damaged where the smaller bearing pushed in. I have used a sacrificial bearing to peen into the seating surface to reshape it if damaged or does not seal properly.
 

gregs

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A number of years ago I bought the Aluminum 3pc pipe wrench set from HF. It has served me well over the years for the limited use they get. I think 24" was the biggest one. After Christmas one year I was wandering thru the HD xmas tool sale area at the marked down leftovers. Picked up a 2 pack of these Husky stubby adjustable wrenches that the jaw can be flipped around and used like a pipe wrench. Thought that was kinda gimmicky. One of them was pretty big though and I thought for $10 it might come in handy one day. The big one opens to about 2" if I remember correctly and has worked great for gland nuts and the odd nut here and there. The handle is really short so I have to use a cheater bar on it, but its paid for itself many times now.
 

theoldwizard1

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That 18" wrench even w/a 'cheater' pipe I suspect won't get enough of a good bite to allow removal of that gland nut.
I used the entire jack handle strapped to my biggest Craftsman pipe wrench. The next problem was hold the vice body. With that much torque, your work bench will move if it is not securely bolted to the floor.
 
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BikeRider

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A Blackhawk I rebuilt before I had my workbench and vise moved in and setup.
Don't need the vise or workbench :p

IMG_20180708_193135.jpg
That's actually a great idea, use the car I'll need the fixed jack to work on to fix the jack I'll need to work on it. I can use the car's scissor jack to raise a wheel. Hopefully the pump can handle that weight without collapsing.
 
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BikeRider

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Gland nut may have seals inside and out. It's the base of the housing to cast iron that definitely will need sealant. I used Permatex Right Stuff on the last power unit I rebuilt.

Make certain that bearing seat is not damaged where the smaller bearing pushed in. I have used a sacrificial bearing to peen into the seating surface to reshape it if damaged or does not seal properly.
Which Right Stuff do you use?
 
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BikeRider

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Where do you plan to source the seals once its taken apart?
I've only had the jack a few years so I'm hoping to reuse the existing seals. Seal kits cost more than the jack cost me and it's not such a great jack that it's worth spending that much on. For now I'll just replace what needs replacing and keep the rest. Do any of them have to be replaced if removed even if they seem fine?
 

vwpieces

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BikeRider

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BikeRider

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If I end up getting a new, better jack, are the lower-end aluminum jacks from Harbor Freight decent, for occasional use on 3000lb or so cars? I'm specifically looking at their cheapest one, occasionally on sale but currently going for $100, up to 1.5 tons, 14" height, around 32lbs, sold under different names through other vendors. I'd prefer another inch or two of height but I don't want to spend too much and there are ways to safely get a bit more height, like a plywood base or piece of 2x4 on the saddle if lifting the suspension or diff.
 
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BikeRider

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https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-professional-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-orange-64200.html
why not just buy this jack and use a coupon whenever they show up? like no matter how little you use it you will need it one day. one thing also i dont understand why you want to spend so little money. if you really wanted cheap why not buy a ******** amazon or something.
As I explained above I don't have a garage or safe place to store a jack at ground level so one as heavy as this is just out of the question. Not everyone is lucky enough to have a place to store tools and work on their cars. I keep everything either in the trunk or upstairs in a walkup, and no way am I lugging a 70lb beast up those stairs or putting it in the trunk.

If I do get a new jack, it'll be aluminum and no more than 35-40lbs.

Plus, most of the work I've been doing has been either restoration or repairs, all of which should be completed later this year, at which point I won't need the jack often other than for oil changes, tire rotations and the occasional repair or upgrade, basically 4 or 5 times a year, and a cheaper jack should be fine for that.

Money is a concern, but so are weight and long term need.
 

Jeepster04

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Got any scrap steel? Cut a wrench out with an angle grinder. Maybe you can grab some scrap steel from a shop or something?
 
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BikeRider

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lots of examples in the other forum here.

Or use a 3 lb hammer and chisel.
Make sure its not reverse threads.
I'm still not sure what you mean. Do you mean hit one of the hex faces with a chisel and hammer, instead of using a wrench or vise? And every how-to I've seen has this with standard threads. No reason to make it reverse.
 
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BikeRider

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driftpin

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Isn't that a 'spud wrench?' For attaching the drain to a sink? I doubt that's anywhere near strong-enough to prevent failure. Seems like your principle of wanting to defeat the nut is important, so just spring for the socket and do the job, even at the cost of the socket. You want to see what's going on inside there, and learn about the rebuild process, get the tool you need and do it, or scrap it out and buy new.
 
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BikeRider

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Isn't that a 'spud wrench?' For attaching the drain to a sink? I doubt that's anywhere near strong-enough to prevent failure. Seems like your principle of wanting to defeat the nut is important, so just spring for the socket and do the job, even at the cost of the socket. You want to see what's going on inside there, and learn about the rebuild process, get the tool you need and do it, or scrap it out and buy new.
The socket + adapter are going to cost well more than the jack cost me and be a one-off use so that makes no sense, unless I return both which is kind of unethical. I'm going to stick to one of the methods that's seemed to work for others, which comes down to securing the body of the bottle part of the jack solidly then loosening the nut cap with a pipe wrench or the like. If I can't do it that way then I'm just going to buy a new and better jack.
 

qqzj

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Sell your leaky jack. Get a bottle jack. It works if you are careful. Cheap and light.
 
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BikeRider

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Sell your leaky jack. Get a bottle jack. It works if you are careful. Cheap and light.
No one's going to buy it for more than $10 and at that price I might as well keep it for parts. And a bottle jack won't fit under my car. Folks here tend to make a lot of assumptions about everyone having a garage, air compressor, SUVs and trucks, tons of heavy duty tools, and fairly generous budgets. But for us weekend DIYers with cars, few if any of these assumptions apply. Not knocking anyone, just saying that there's a whole category of folks who aren't in a position to apply many of the well-intentioned solutions and advice given here.
 

inliner311

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Have you checked AutoZone loaner tools if they have the socket or a tool that can fit it? Maybe a wrench for a fan clutch would work if they don't have a 47mm socket. It's free so you might as well just bring in the part and ask them if you can go through the loaner stuff to find something that fits.
 
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