I have found Rustoleum Marigold spray paint is a pretty close match for Cub Cadet.Today after work when I got home I put the newly painted belt/pulley guard on the mower. Chose the wrong shade of yellow, going to have to look around for the right shade.
Excellent !3D printed the holder for my 12 point 1/2" SAE sockets with red PLA and let the glue dry overnight. It is a pretty tight fit, but I think that finishes off that drawer. Many more drawers to go, but it feels good to have that one done.
Lee
45k isn't a lot of miles for a fuel pump! Im guessing its an in-tank pump? Are you regularly running your tank down to the bottom? One of my buddies was always running his Chevy truck down with the fuel light on and was burning up pumps. His mechanic said to keep the tank filled up at least 1/2 way because that cools off the pump while it's running. He didn't replace another one for the life of that truck, which was another 125k before he sold it.
Fuel pump today on my 17 Chevy with 45,000. No big surprise here.
I had Dailey Engineering make a system like that for my Ford 2L, they do awesome work. I picked up 2hp with it, I know that doesn't sound like much but it's huge in our S2 class. I found Dailey at the PRI show one year. I change my oil pretty much the same way you do but my pump is easier to get to so I use a separate belt and my drill to drive the pump. It pumps it out in no time. What kind of car do you have and do you race it?Oil change.
I wouldn’t normally post what some will consider a simple task but this is a little different and I thought someone might find it interesting, or offer a suggestion to me on how to do it better/easier.
First off, this is a dry sump system with a remote filter. Not the “dret” system on a stock LS7.
First step remove the filter, then remove the drain plug in the (2-1/2 gal) tank. This drains a lot of the oil but not what’s in the bottom of the “pan”. The belt driven pump mounts to the pan and pumps the oil from the pan to the tank AND from the bottom of the tank, through the filter then into the engine. So after the oil that was in the tank has drained, I remove the belt & spin the pump by hand to pump oil from the pan into the tank and out the drain in the bottom of the tank. Replace plug & belt, install new filter then refill with 9 qts of oil. I took some pics to help explain it
This is the pan & pump when I installed it several years ago
From today
It’s a late model GTO with a 454” LS2(bottom)/7(top), I drag race it but it is registered and (somewhat) street legal. It launches pretty hard and with the OEM oil pan has the sump in front my oil pressure was dropping to below 20 psi. I figured the engine wasn’t long for the living like that. I looked into dams & baffles in the oil pan, different dry sumps including the LS7 semi dry. Once I talked to Bill Daily I was sold. It wasn’t the least expensive route but everything went together exactly like he said and it’s performed exactly as he said it would. It may have been overkill but it is the 100% ultimate solution to the problems I was having.
Then mowed the yard 
I've got the same balancer. It's gotta be 50 years old. It makes an amazing difference having balanced blades.Did a quick and dirty weld job on the mulching deck to reattach the back mount. Robbed a baffle off the red craftsman deck. Installed the new mulching blades
I was going to paint the mulching deck, but after looking under the deck I JUST rebuilt…
Paint is gone Lmao. So until I can get something tougher, I’m just gonna run it bare. That, AND I’d want to paint it right, and to do so would mean removal of the mandrels. Those are still “ok” and to remove the bolts, means they will absolutely snap. So. It works. I ain’t touching it.
I usually balance my blades on a nail. It’s how I was taught. But I decided to get this balancer for S&G’s. This is an old blade I sharpened last season. It this season yet. I’d say it’s fairly balanced still.
That’s it for today. Tomorrow I’m going to head back to work I think I hope. Leg still hurts but I HAVE to go to work. Otherwise I can’t afford a $1000 emergency
I’m hopin!
Who is buying battery cores as opposed to just refunding the core charge you already paid them?
I return them to O'Reilly Auto Parts
I am that guy, always putting $20 in the tank. The truck does sit a lot also. I will try keeping more gas in it.
If you dont mind me asking, what does something like that set you back. Wife is really wanting to add a/c to the house and since the gas furnace is original (2010) we will be updating that as well. I am thinking a new panel will be required since the current one is completely full, including lots of peanut breakers.
Never done brakes on a VW. How complicated can the Germans make brake pad replacement?
Aren’t there porsches that take 8 hours for an oil change?
Around here, Interstate Batteries buys scrap batteries of all sorts. Car batteries, SLA batteries, etc.
Had to find a youtube video. If I had to replace rotor I would have needed to make a trip to the parts store for a 14mm 12pt torx type socket to remove the caliper holder. There is also a tool for pushing the piston back into the caliper but I made do with knipex pliers and a short pry bar. Never mind the silly plastic caps over the lug bolts, yes bolts, not nuts. She had all the stock jack equipment including the key for locking lug nut. I've had to replace the pcv assembly too. https://www.myvwpart.com/p/Volkswagen__Jetta/Engine-Crankcase-Vent-Valve/67801091/06K103495AP.html?partner=BingShopping&kwd=&matchtype=e&device=c&network=o&userLocation=&msqs=2016 vw jetta pcv valve&bingCampaignID=367648708&bingAdGroupID=1218259323644410&bingAdID=76141316174487&bingExtensionID=
