Workshop concrete floor repair help.

[Loose Ctrl]

My workshop floors are uneven and some of the aggragate is showing through. It's very difficult to roll equipment around with small casters. I've watched many videos on pouring various cement and mortar mixes over old concrete to smooth and level it up. My floor is very clean at this point with no chemicals, no oils, and no sealer on it. My concern is at the doors. As I'm rolling stuff in and out, I'm afraid these leveling mixes will start to break up and come off the orginal floor. The original floor is very rough in spots and nowhere is it smooth like polished or worked concrete, especially at the doors. Are my fears unfounded? Is there a mix that would hold up to say a 500lbs + fully dressed engine rolling around on it on an engine stand or engine hoist? What about using those epoxy coating kits over the fresh floor repair to help add strength? Of course, only coated after a proper curing time has been met. Any advice from anyone with experience at this is greatly appreciated.

 

[The Cobbler]

if the concrete is spalling nothing will fix it, short of repouring the slab.
if it's solid & was poorly finsihed or worn, a grinder might be your best solution

 

[Loose Ctrl]

if the concrete is spalling nothing will fix it, short of repouring the slab.
if it's solid & was poorly finsihed or worn, a grinder might be your best solution

The floor is solid. It just wasn't finished properly. There are also old anchors and lags in the floor in a few areas. I do need to cut those off and grind them down.

 

[bb29510]

jack hammer

 

[Loose Ctrl]

jack hammer

Well, that's not really feasible. The floor is reinforce with rebar and there is a building on it. Other wise, me and my tractor would rip it up insections and redo the entire thing.

 

[The Cobbler]

sounds to me like grinding would be a good option

 

[TnClimber]

I had to remove mine. It was just too bad to fix. I also leveled the building while I was at it. 25x24.

 

[Loose Ctrl]

I had to remove mine. It was just too bad to fix. I also leveled the building while I was at it. 25x24.

Look like a big job.

 

[TnClimber]

It was but, sometimes you have to choose your best approach and do it.

 

[bluedog225]

Cover it in steel plate, laid on sand base, weld together and grind the seams.

Surprised there is not a high tech strong real-life self leveling goop that would be thick enough, tough enough, and bond.

 

[BillK]

A few pictures would go a long way in getting some good suggestions. How big is the floor area ?

 

[dcg9381]

Post photos.

When my home was built the front "porch" landing was about 1" too high. They took it down by chipping it out and then poured something on it that "refinished" it, I'll see if I can find what it was. It only takes foot traffic, so not sure that I'd trust it for a garage.

Have you considered coating it - some of the materials over in the flooring section can be fairly "high build" - I've heard you can put multi-coats of epoxy on pretty thick. I use polyurea (you cannot lay it on single coat thick) - but I've done at least 1/8th inch builds on it (3 coats). It's so smooth you'll bust your *** if it gets wet (without an anti-slip agent).

 

[Loose Ctrl]

A few pictures would go a long way in getting some good suggestions. How big is the floor area ?

12x16 feet

 

[Loose Ctrl]

Post photos.

When my home was built the front "porch" landing was about 1" too high. They took it down by chipping it out and then poured something on it that "refinished" it, I'll see if I can find what it was. It only takes foot traffic, so not sure that I'd trust it for a garage.

Have you considered coating it - some of the materials over in the flooring section can be fairly "high build" - I've heard you can put multi-coats of epoxy on pretty thick. I use polyurea (you cannot lay it on single coat thick) - but I've done at least 1/8th inch builds on it (3 coats). It's so smooth you'll bust your *** if it gets wet (without an anti-slip agent).

Yeah thought about coatings but I think the floor is to rough for it. It's not a garage. It's my little workshop for doing various small things like engines, transmission, and stuff like that.

 

[BillK]

I would consider some type of good leveling compound and then putting vinyl commercial tile down ? In my last building we had VCT in my engine assembly room and it held up fine.

https://www.lowes.com/pl/VCT-tile-Vinyl-flooring-Flooring/1737092063

As far as where the doors are depending on what is on the outside could you pour a small concrete apron so that there would not be a big "bump" to to go over ?

 

[yelchevelle]

Cover it in steel plate, laid on sand base, weld together and grind the seams.

Surprised there is not a high tech strong real-life self leveling goop that would be thick enough, tough enough, and bond.

I think that is an awesome idea. I have a few cracks in my floor, but mine doesn’t seem as bad as your description suggests. I also have like 2200 ft^2. 12x16 seems pretty manageable to put a layer of 1/4” steel plate on. I would grind any high spots, maybe caulk any cracks, 1/4-1/2” layer of sand, and set the steel on top of it.

 

[Loose Ctrl]

I would consider some type of good leveling compound and then putting vinyl commercial tile down ? In my last building we had VCT in my engine assembly room and it held up fine.

https://www.lowes.com/pl/VCT-tile-Vinyl-flooring-Flooring/1737092063

As far as where the doors are depending on what is on the outside could you pour a small concrete apron so that there would not be a big "bump" to to go over ?

I use to install that type of tile. The floor has to be pretty smooth. My floor is to rough so I would certainly have to have a floor leveling compound.

My building covers the entire pad. Outside of the doors is solid ground. I want to pour concrete ramps. I know any floor repair I do may raise the floor level so I've held off on forming and pouring the ramps.

I think that is an awesome idea. I have a few cracks in my floor, but mine doesn’t seem as bad as your description suggests. I also have like 2200 ft^2. 12x16 seems pretty manageable to put a layer of 1/4” steel plate on. I would grind any high spots, maybe caulk any cracks, 1/4-1/2” layer of sand, and set the steel on top of it.

Steel would get really expensive really quick. It's over kill.

 

[Augus7us]

3 disc 80 grit diamond concrete grinder and 95%+ epoxy and i think youll solve 90% of your problems. This assumes your concrete is good just a poor finish.

 

[Loose Ctrl]

My floor is usable as is. It would just be nice to have it smooth. I'm planning a lean to addition to store my motorcycles and lawn and garden equipment.

 

[Loose Ctrl]

3 disc 80 grit diamond concrete grinder and 95%+ epoxy and i think youll solve 90% of your problems. This assumes your concrete is good just a poor finish.

Yes concrete is good just not finished properly. I would take pics of the floor but it's currently covered in building supplies.

 

[bluedog225]

I wonder if angle iron “rails” would work for you heavy stuff.

 

[Hank11]

Call a concrete floor grinding/finishing company and get their opinion and an estimate. I bet you can grind and seal to make a nice floor.

 

[Loose Ctrl]

I wonder if angle iron “rails” would work for you heavy stuff.

That would be a good idea if my work was production or done in an assembly line fashion. Other than that, I don't see how it would work. My brain just can't figure it out.

Call a concrete floor grinding/finishing company and get their opinion and an estimate. I bet you can grind and seal to make a nice floor.

That is an idea but I'm not looking to spend big money on this. I probably don't have to coinage to spare. Plus, I like to learn new skillz.

 

[Wolley]

How about plywood screwed directly to the concrete

 

[nitroracer20]

Saw cut the perimeter, break it out, And start fresh with ready mix concrete. You CAN do this.

Youll be close in cost, and comprable in labor doing any type of self lever pour over nonsense. Or grinding.

You want somthing that will last in a working garage, yes?

Post pics!

 

[Sumboodie]

Surprised there is not a high tech strong real-life self leveling goop that would be thick enough, tough enough, and bond.

There are many.

 

[Sumboodie]

Pour a 5k psi self leveler over top of the slab if you can deal with ~1/2-1" less height (doors may need dealt with).

 

[Loose Ctrl]

How about plywood screwed directly to the concrete

I tried plywood but the small casters mar up in the wood with a small engine on my stand.

Saw cut the perimeter, break it out, And start fresh with ready mix concrete. You CAN do this.

Youll be close in cost, and comprable in labor doing any type of self lever pour over nonsense. Or grinding.

You want somthing that will last in a working garage, yes?

Post pics!

I'm not sure how good of an idea that is. I'm not sure of the rebar placement in the slab. It's not a garage. It's my small 12x16 ft stick built workshop. We have a lot of water that moves under ground. I'm also an 1/8th mile from a rock quarry that blasts weekly. Thankfully, this workshop's floor is on a gravel pad with turn downs on the outer edges of the concrete slap to capture the gravel. Every time I cut grass, the ground has changed, a heave here and a dip there all over my two acres of ground.

 

[inphx]

Steel would get really expensive really quick. It's over kill.

i'm thinking it would be great for the bumper cars.