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Ibeam trolley inquiry

cannuck

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Nov 30, 2021
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4,661
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Rural SK
I just kind of call any type of drawing like that isometric.
The old school way of setting up a drawing was to do 3 views, projected off of each other with one view sharing points and "projection lines" with the other two. In the remaining 1/4 of the page one would do an isometric view that shared no points with the rest of the page, but was a final confirmation of what you had drawn and gave a lot of information from that point of view. The whole process of design IMHO is facilitated by having to think through what it takes to put all of the features and elements down on paper and "see" them as a complete assembly in the isometric projection.

When I first started selling industrial stuff (at 23) I encountered an account where I was handed a pen and ink isometric drawing for a part under consideration, and after a few times I had to ask who the heck had time to make a full, permanent drawing on the board at-such an early stage. I was told it was freehand (note how sloppy MY freehand sketch was - you can't erase ink) and the Swedish engineer (who had recently immigrated) did this all of the time. We have been best of friends for the last half century and I have delighted in watching him design (and build) 12 airplanes with many of the details in his incredible freehand drawings. I mention this and tip my hat to THE most accomplished professional I have ever had the pleasure of knowing as he passed away 2 months ago leaving a BIG hole in our circle of friends.
 
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Monza Harry

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Dec 29, 2018
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Windsor ON
@Cannuck and I have a similar answer to your concern. I had envisioned 1/4" plates with 3/8" screws, plates should go to the top and the web. However I wouldn't weld them as the rules for welding on lifting devices are not easily enacted with a backyard budget. I don't even know all of them and I started welding at ~12 and I'm certified for TIG (not licenced there is a difference) even drilling this will shift liability in the event of failure. Now I'm wondering if you can actually remove that by hand, from your picture's I can't see that happening, under dynamic load that frame could open about 1/4"-3/8" so if you can't get really close by hand it will not come off. Off topic here a little, Cannuck sorry to hear about your friend, that starts happening alot once we pass 60 yrs. old. :( Harry
 
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CraigStu

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May 22, 2014
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4,057
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Blacksburg, Va
They are flat that leads out to a taper, almost a 50/50. They state it can work with tapered or flat beams in the specs.
Ok, they didn't look right to me but, as long as they are specced for your use by the manufacturer, you are good to go. I am back to your original thought.
"I also contemplating drilling out a hole on each side under the beam and running large bolt directly underneath to prevent the upward motion in that event it ever did move."
It would not even need to be a large bolt. It wouldn't ever be taking any actual load so I'd go 5/16 and call it good. If you go to the nut/bolt section in an Ace hardware they may have some plastic spacers, sleeves, etc that you could run on that bolt as rollers.
 

jmarkwolf

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Jan 15, 2013
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1,824
Location
Southeast Michigan
Let's get back to the basics: There are two kinds of "I" beams, Wide Flange (i.e. H series) and S series ("I" beams to most). The HUGE difference in trolleys to run on them is that S beams have a tapered cap strip, so the wheels have a matching taper inside of the flange of the wheels to match the running surface on the "I" beam. Wide flange beams are dead flat on cap strips (the top and bottom parts actually called flanges) so take a very different wheel with no taper. Do NOT run a tapered wheel on a W beam. I have as yet to see a 7 1/2" depth any beam, so not sure what the OP actually has.

The HF trolley (IF it has the right wheels) should do just fine, and most such trolleys can indeed be lifted but not fall off. Have used dozens if not hundreds over the years loaded not only straight down but with loads pulled along from chain fall.
This ^^^.
 
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