Can I put Epoxy-Coat over DAP 3.0 Concrete Sealant?

[NoleenELT]

Hello,
Last weekend I prepped my garage floor for epoxy-coat by diamond grinding it. I had one thin but long crack across the floor which I wanted to fill. I used DAP 3.0 Self-Leveling Concrete & Masonry High Performance Sealant, which says "paintable" on the package. Unfortunately, as I was smoothing the sealant, I spilled/smeared some of it on the concrete about 1" on either side of the crack about 6-8 feet long.

http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?BrandID=190&SubcatID=27

Now I'm worried that the epoxy will not adhere to this area. Do you think that I Should be concerned?

If so, any suggestions on how to remove the sealant and re-prep this area?

I also filled the cracks at the bottom of my expansion joints with a thin bead of the same stuff.

Thanks in advance!

 

[NoleenELT]

I think I'm going to purchase an angle grinder and small diamond wheel to clean up that section.

 

[benwah]

I wouldn't, but that's my opinion. You should fill cracks with a surfacing epoxy so you have a compatible surface to adhere to.

 

[NoleenELT]

I wouldn't, but that's my opinion. You should fill cracks with a surfacing epoxy so you have a compatible surface to adhere to.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding your reply, but did you read the whole post? I already sealed the cracks with the stuff I posted and made a mess of it. I'm trying to figure out if I am still OK, or what I should do to fix the situation.

The epoxy-coat website recommends using a product similar to that, but I assume that they don't expect you to smear it on the concrete surface.

 

[benwah]

Sorry, busy day here!

What I was saying is: I, personally, would not apply epoxy over DAP 3.0. At all. Ever.

I am not sure what Epoxy-Coat recommends, I would suggest calling them. They may say it's okay.. I would still be cautious though. I work mostly on the industrial side of these coatings and if a contractor were to use a silicone caulking like this they'd probably lose their contract, or have to re-do it properly. Even in residential garages I use a 100% solids surfacing epoxy with fumed silica mixed in.

Usually applying epoxy over a silicone caulk like this will lead to adhesion issues and cracking of your epoxy floor, because that stuff is flexible and your epoxy floor is not.

If I were you, I would remove the silicone and fill the crack with your 100% solids epoxy mixed with fumed silica. Depending on the depth of the crack you may not even need the fumed silica, but contact Epoxy-Coat and see what they say.

 

[NoleenELT]

Is a wire stripping brush on a drill followed by cleaning a good way to remove it?

 

[EpoxyCoat2]

For some reason DAP contains an ingredient that does not allow our epoxy to bond with it. I would remove the DAP that you have already applied, and re-patch with our Concrete Patch Kit.

Hello,
Last weekend I prepped my garage floor for epoxy-coat by diamond grinding it. I had one thin but long crack across the floor which I wanted to fill. I used DAP 3.0 Self-Leveling Concrete & Masonry High Performance Sealant, which says "paintable" on the package. Unfortunately, as I was smoothing the sealant, I spilled/smeared some of it on the concrete about 1" on either side of the crack about 6-8 feet long.

http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?BrandID=190&SubcatID=27

Now I'm worried that the epoxy will not adhere to this area. Do you think that I Should be concerned?

If so, any suggestions on how to remove the sealant and re-prep this area?

I also filled the cracks at the bottom of my expansion joints with a thin bead of the same stuff.

Thanks in advance!

 

[NoleenELT]

Thanks for the reply. How do I remove the old stuff?
I spoke to Cathy @ epoxy coat and she recommended using liquid nails to cover what I can't remove of the old stuff. It's a very thin crack.

 

[NoleenELT]

I picked up a wire stripping brush from Home Depot and removed as much of it as I could. It returned to a rough texture like the rest of the concrete, but I can still feel that some of the caulk is in embedded in the concrete as it does not have the dry dusty feeling of the rest of the prepped concrete.

Should I buy a 4" diamond cup wheel and an angle grinder, or is there a better method to remove the remaining (chemical, etc)?

Thanks for all of the help so far.

 

[EpoxyCoat2]

I picked up a wire stripping brush from Home Depot and removed as much of it as I could. It returned to a rough texture like the rest of the concrete, but I can still feel that some of the caulk is in embedded in the concrete as it does not have the dry dusty feeling of the rest of the prepped concrete.

Should I buy a 4" diamond cup wheel and an angle grinder, or is there a better method to remove the remaining (chemical, etc)?

Thanks for all of the help so far.

The diamond cup wheel sounds perfect. Just try to get as much off as you can. The diamond cup wheel/angel grinder should do the job.

 

[NoleenELT]

The diamond cup wheel made a huge mess of dust, but cleaned things up quite quickly.

I'm starting the epoxy tomorrow, I can't wait to get this project finished!

 

[EpoxyCoat2]

I would love to see pictures when you are finished

 

[pavankv90]

Hi… I made the same mistake of putting self leveling sealant in between contraction joints. How do I remove it?

 

[benwah]

Snap blade utility knife

Hi… I made the same mistake of putting self leveling sealant in between contraction joints. How do I remove it?