Daikin MiniSplit question. Confused on specs.

[NewShockerGuy]

I'm at the pont now where I want to be comfortable working in the garage. We are having our entire house ACs/Furnaces replaced and I thought I'd have the same folks install a mini split in the garage. However, that's not happening after getting a quote back for $8k. I will install it.
I'm located in Northern Virgina. My two-car garage is about 22x22 and has 11' ceilings.

I've found 3 units that seem be what I'm looking for. I am going with an 18,000BTU unit. The problem is between these three Daikin units I don't understand why they go up slightly in price yet they have very similar specs?

1: $1,825

18,000 BTU 18 SEER Wall Mounted Daikin Mini-Split 19 Series Single Zone Heat Pump - FTX18RX​

18,000 BTU 18 SEER Wall Mounted Daikin Mini-Split 19 Series Single Zone Heat Pump - FTX18RX

Daikin’s 19-Series Wall Mount Systems provide energy efficiency and comfort control with an affordable, cost-saving solution. The 19 Series features a streamlined, wall mounted indoor unit paired with quiet, compact outdoor unit. The indoor unit's design blends discretely with any home décor and...

hvacdirect.com

2: $2,270

18,000 BTU 20.3 SEER Wall Mounted Daikin Mini-Split LV Series Single Zone Heat Pump - FTXS18RXS​

18,000 BTU 20.3 SEER Wall Mounted Daikin Mini-Split LV Series Single Zone Heat Pump - FTXS18RXS

Daikin mini split - The Daikin LV mini-split heat pump system is designed to keep your room comfortable while being energy efficient with a SEER rating of 20. The indoor wall mount unit is designed to blend in to any room and features a night set mode to ensure a good night's sleep without a...

hvacdirect.com

3. $2,294

18,000 BTU 20.3 SEER Wall Mounted Daikin Mini-Split Aurora Single Zone Heat Pump - FTX18RXL​

18,000 BTU 20.3 SEER Wall Mounted Daikin Mini-Split Aurora Single Zone Heat Pump - FTX18RXL

The Daikin Aurora wall mounted unit delivers home comfort and energy savings even in the coldest regions. The wall mount features a smooth panel that allows it to blend in with any decor. Its Program Dry feature allows humidity to be reduced without causing temperature fluctuations, and its Hot...

hvacdirect.com

All three look like they take the Daikin wifi module which is a feature I DO want. I understand these do not come with linesets or accessories...etc. That's fine. We don't need to get into the details of that stuff but I'm just confused that it appears the (1st one) 19-series has a better cooling and heating BTU rating than the other two which are more expensive.

The 3rd (Aurora) looks like it has a nicer remote control. So far in a search trying to compare all these units isn't pulling up much. Even Daikins brochure doesn't mention hardly any details on the LV series, but they go into way more features/info on both the (1) 19 series and the (3) Aurora series.

Does anyone that is in the business of the AC world able to shed light on the above Daikin models. I think I am leaning towards the 2nd LV series. Finding a brochure on the Aurora it seems like this is more for extreme temps as they offer 100% heating in -5 degrees...etc. I don't think that really matters to me in Northern Virginia. We don't get crazy winters and in summer time it gets hot/muggy. So I'd like to just be comfortable in the garage year round.

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

[fitter30]

Series 19 heats to 5°
Lv to -5°
Aurora -13°
With the seer rating and compressor warranty goes up
With all the small valves and orifices in minis and other related small refrigeration systems if a compressor fails out of labor warranty i doubt i would change it. Would just be chasing other problems. Minis don't like dirty environments their coils are enhanced have small slits in the evaporator to make them move efficient. Watch a you tube on cleaning them. Might want to call Daikin for btu specs at the lower temps.

 

[NewShockerGuy]

Ah thank you. I apprecaite that. I must have missed it trying to decipher all the freaking details..lol

I don't think it gets that cold here in VA... if it's -13 I don't want to be alive if I'm honest. Anything lower than 50's and I turn into a grumpy person.

I think I'm leaning towards teh LV. Seems to be a decent unit. Now I just have to figure out properly the Btus. I thought 18k would be enough but now I'm reading something that climate 4 should be 45 btu's per sq ft. So it would put me around 22,000 BTUs which would then bump me up to a 24k. That seems nuts though.

I could heat up my garage with a propane mr buddy tiny heater and get it to around 69 in the winter time and I was sweating in the garage. I can't imagine a full size mini split having issues

-Nigel

 

[fitter30]

Ah thank you. I apprecaite that. I must have missed it trying to decipher all the freaking details..lol

I don't think it gets that cold here in VA... if it's -13 I don't want to be alive if I'm honest. Anything lower than 50's and I turn into a grumpy person.

I think I'm leaning towards teh LV. Seems to be a decent unit. Now I just have to figure out properly the Btus. I thought 18k would be enough but now I'm reading something that climate 4 should be 45 btu's per sq ft. So it would put me around 22,000 BTUs which would then bump me up to a 24k. That seems nuts though.

I could heat up my garage with a propane mr buddy tiny heater and get it to around 69 in the winter time and I was sweating in the garage. I can't imagine a full size mini split having issues

-Nigel

Make the call to find out how many btu's the unit puts out at your low temp. Some equipment start dropping off below 23°.

 

[Mesozoic]

Not sure if a Manual J calculation is in play, but make sure that's done in order to properly size the units to your space. If they're even slightly under or oversized, you'll have inefficient and ineffective cooling/heating performance.

I've got a 36K outdoor condenser unit with 4 ports, of which I'm using 2. One of the ports is for my small in-garage office (15x8) and the Daikin unit in there is a CTXS07 - this unit is actually a bit oversized for my office space and causes excessive humidity and other things if left on for too long. The main garage unit is a FTXS24 (24K BTU/hr unit) and this does a good job keeping the entire 1600 sq ft garage cool even with 110-115F ambients outside. The heater works great too. The system cost me around $9K to have installed and it came with Wifi modules as well.

About those Wifi modules... currently not working and a bit of a pain to get working at all. Might be my network setup, not sure.

 

[fitter30]

Have this manual

https://backend.daikincomfort.com/docs/default-source/product-documents/residential/brochures/pf-dkncloud-smz.pdf

 

[jjrbus]

Keep in mind mini's are, can't think of the word?? The out put varies, starts out low and ramps up to needed out put. For a 9k unit depending on manufacturer can be from 2K to 11K. Mine called for 11k and the closest size was 12K, has been in 4 years and has never run on high, I am sure I could have used a 9K unit. According to the internet the closer to max output the more efficent the unit is.

Shopping is a bear, too much information out there.

 

[fitter30]

Keep in mind mini's are, can't think of the word?? The out put varies, starts out low and ramps up to needed out put. For a 9k unit depending on manufacturer can be from 2K to 11K. Mine called for 11k and the closest size was 12K, has been in 4 years and has never run on high, I am sure I could have used a 9K unit. According to the internet the closer to max output the more efficent the unit is.

Shopping is a bear, too much information out there.

Here's a older report from 2014

BA-1407: Long-Term Monitoring of Mini-Split Ductless Heat Pumps in the Northeast | buildingscience.com

buildingscience.com

 

[jjrbus]

Here's a older report from 2014

BA-1407: Long-Term Monitoring of Mini-Split Ductless Heat Pumps in the Northeast | buildingscience.com

buildingscience.com

Ever notice the study's never include GAS&GO HEATING AND COOLING doing any repairs?

 

[chrispyny]

Newshockerguy. I would buy the cheapest of the three and put that one in, considering where you are. Also i’d prolly stick with a 12kbtu unit. 18 is too much for 22x22x11, unless you are in the desert or the garage is poorly insulated. Also consider off brands. I installed a 18kbtu Pioneer with two 9k heads(one for master br, one for office) about 5 years ago. The Pioneer works just as well as the Fujitsu i installed on the other side of the house which cost me more than double.
i’m currently laying in bed with the a/c on now, bone dry cool air cascading off my body while it’s almost 80 deg outside at 7 in the morning and raining.

 

[housewolf]

I agree with chrispyny. 12K should work fine for you. I’m not familiar with the climate in NOVA but I’m assuming it’s somewhat less brutal than TX.

I have the 18K Daiken in a 18x36x12 metal building. Everything but the 10x12 roll up door is closed cell foam insulated. I’m very comfortable in the shop even when the outdoor temps are 100*+.

Daiken is somewhat local to me so we save a little shipping and I do buy as a contractor but damn, there’s a lot of markup at that online retailer. Have you tried to buy that unit locally?

 

[chrispyny]

Pioneer® Diamante Series 12,000 BTU 19 SEER Ductless Mini-Split Air Conditioner Inverter+ Heat Pump Full Set 230V with 16 Ft. Kit

Ductless DC Inverter High Wall Mounted Split Air Conditioning and Heating System. Operation Mode: Cooling and Heating.Capacity: 12,000 BTU/Hr. (1 Ton) Efficiency Rating:19 S.E.E.R.Electrical Specification: 208~230 VAC, 1 Phase, 60 Hertz.

www.highseer.com

$628. Half the cost of your daiken. And honestly it’s your garage. Just sayin.

 

[NewShockerGuy]

Appreciate all the input! I even contacted a few more people about the Daikin LV 18k btu mini split and the cheapest I got for a quote thus far is $7,795. I'd honestly prefer not to buy a cheap unit / off brand from one of the top three. I am ok buying once and crying once, but I don't want to buy some off unit then have to replace the entire thing years later. I don't like to operate like that.

Local distros won't sell unless you are a licensed HVAC person, so they don't sell at all to the consumer here where I am at, won't even entertain it. By going online to that site, total cost for me with line sets, wall mount, and various other stuff would be around $3,213. So I am saving almost $4,600 by doing this install myself. Which actually I have no problem buying the tools, literally ALL the tools, new flaring, new vacuum pump, new gauges...etc. (I already have the vacuum pump and gauge from working on our cars), just saying the markup here in my area is quite high. More than double what the cost of equipment is.

NOVA weather isn't bad, but the summers *****. It can get very humid and hot. The other day it was 98 degrees outside, and you felt wet. The inside of my garage was 86 degrees. Winter time isn't bad, hardly get an - degree weather but it can get into the teens.

The reason why I was thinking the 18k BTU system is because my Mr. Buddy propane heater has a heating capacity of something like 4,000-18k BTUS and if I turn it up on HIGH. it can get my garage up to temp in a decent amount of time to the point where I am sweating in the dead of winter if I am working on a car. It's actually nice. However, I don't want the moisture associated with having a propane system like that. The MAX heating btu's for the mini split I think was 21k. My garage has no insulation in the above attic space, and both walls are exposed exterior. The garage doors are the wayne dalton builder grade which have slight insulation but it's a joke. They will eventually be replaced with nice insulated doors. So I figured having a higher mini split that would be at the minimum load cycle due to it's space even though my max space is it's min would make sure the unit wasn't working at max capacity and then struggling to keep up.

Almost all HVAC people who have come have recommended an 18k btu mini split. Only one person said 12k would probably be OK but didn't look really confident in it.

What's extremely frustrating to read on all the HVAC forums is that you have people that are soooo loyal that it's Mitsubishi or nothing. Everything else is ****. Daikin comes in as OK via between the two. Then you have other folks that love Daikin and say you are paying just for the Mitsubishi branding. Then there are tons of people that love Mr. Cool but if there is an issue years down the line you probably aren't getting parts for it.

I think the best one for me is the LV series by Daikin because a huge selling point to me is that it's precharged for linesets up to 33'. My total distance is going to be around 30-32'. So that makes it that I don't have to get someone to come out and top off the unit. Other units look like they are precharged with 15-25' feet of line set. I was going to buy the 35' of line set and then cut off the ends to make it a perfect fit and hope to be right at around the 33' mark.

-Nigel

 

[vavet]

I have a 24x32 x12.5'H about 100 miles south of you(near Richmond). I put in a Mr Cool 18k about 4 years ago. It's great in the summer. It struggles to maintain 60F on the coldest of winter days. If you're like me, you'll tolerate a bit of discomfort. This is more about eliminating the most brutal temps, not having it optimized.
How is your garage insulated? Mine is R13 walls, R19 ceiling, and the 18x8 overhead door is a factory-insulated unit, but that doesn't mean much, it's probably like a R4 or something ridiculous, but better than nothing. Windows - I have six 4'x2' transom windows.
If your garage is insulated similar to mine, I think you'd be fine with 12k or maybe go to 18k if you want better cold performance or if you have less insulation. You have roughly 55% of the volume of mine. There's more to it than that, but that gets you a pretty reasonable estimate.

 

[NewShockerGuy]

Very similar size... yours is larger, I wish I had a garage that size! It would be nice! I don't have a clue what my garage is insulated with to be honest. I know that if I cut into the dry wall on either side there is insulation pink stuff that I can pull out..lol The ceiling when I go to the attic is just drywall. There is nothing sprayed/foamed or anything like that above the garage. I wouldn't mind spraying something up there but heard mixed reviews that it could either trap the cold air in or hot air depending on the season and actually make it worse.

At 60 degrees in the wintertime I'd be 100% happy with that. As it sits in the wintertime I'm lucky if I hit 48 degrees with two small oil heaters running... and even then, most of the time I stop and stand over them to get warm then go back to what I'm doing. I think to be safe 18k BTU is what I'm going for now. 24k BTU would be insanely overkill.

I still think the Daikin is a good pick for me but for $600 more I'd get the top of the line Mitsubishi with hyper heat. I just hope I don't regret one thing then wonder why didn't I just pay more to get what everyone was recommending...lol.

Did you install your Mr. Cool yourself? And the reality of it is I'm not going to have this on probably all the time. It's when I'm working on something in the garage. So I just want to be comfortable while in it. Otherwise I don't really need something running all the time when I am at work for 10+ hours a day. My wife doesn't go in the garage at all for anything, just me.

-Nigel

 

[American Locomotive]

People have reported issues with Daikin units lately. If you do a DIY install, you will not get the Daikin warranty. Basically, the way I look at it, is if you're going to go DIY: Either go all the way with the most reliable units (Mitsubishi) so you won't ever have to worry about the warranty you don't have, or go all the way cheap with something like Senville or Mr. Cool, who usually do support DIY installs.

 

[Steve W.]

A couple of replies have mentioned Pioneer. Have you checked them at all?

18k unit with 33' lineset is $1188. Then you will have to add your mount and whatever else you would want, but the total will be less than half of your Daikin unit. Free shipping to your door, too.

Pioneer® 18,000 BTU 19 SEER 230V Ductless Mini-Split Inverter & Air Conditioner Heat Pump System

Upgrade your home with a powerful and efficient heating and cooling with an 1800 BTU and 230 V high-efficiency inverter and mini split heat pump from Pioneer.

www.pioneerminisplit.com

.

 

[housewolf]

What's extremely frustrating to read on all the HVAC forums is that you have people that are soooo loyal that it's Mitsubishi or nothing. Everything else is ****. Daikin comes in as OK via between the two. Then you have other folks that love Daikin and say you are paying just for the Mitsubishi branding. .

-Nigel

FWIW; I have a two zone 36K total BTU unit in a guesthouse over garage and the Daiken 18K in my shop. I installed both myself. The Mits is a better built unit, it’s quieter indoors and out. If I’m 100% honest, the Daiken does perform better. Not often, but occasionally the Mits will get a glitch and supply air temps will not be what they should be. Eventually it “self corrects” but in the heat of the day it doesn’t take long to get uncomfortable over the garage. I’ve found shutting off either of the units for about 5 minutes fixes it immediately.

I wouldn’t hesitate a second to buy Daiken again and if I had to do it over I’d still buy the mits for the “living area” where sound is more important to me.

 

[NewShockerGuy]

A couple of replies have mentioned Pioneer. Have you checked them at all?

18k unit with 33' lineset is $1188. Then you will have to add your mount and whatever else you would want, but the total will be less than half of your Daikin unit. Free shipping to your door, too.

Pioneer® 18,000 BTU 19 SEER 230V Ductless Mini-Split Inverter & Air Conditioner Heat Pump System

Upgrade your home with a powerful and efficient heating and cooling with an 1800 BTU and 230 V high-efficiency inverter and mini split heat pump from Pioneer.

www.pioneerminisplit.com

.

I'm not opposed to Pioneer but it's one of those brands I never considered. It was either Daikin or Mitsu. I am ok with buying once and crying once. What I don't want is buying something then later regretting why I didn't spend more money on the original unit that I wanted but cheaped out. We've done that with house projects/doors and it was a nightmare. Should have just spent the money on a Pella and been done with it from the start. We got it worked out with the french door on our patio but it was nothing but problems because we went cheap and didn't buy the better quaility item first.

FWIW; I have a two zone 36K total BTU unit in a guesthouse over garage and the Daiken 18K in my shop. I installed both myself. The Mits is a better built unit, it’s quieter indoors and out. If I’m 100% honest, the Daiken does perform better. Not often, but occasionally the Mits will get a glitch and supply air temps will not be what they should be. Eventually it “self corrects” but in the heat of the day it doesn’t take long to get uncomfortable over the garage. I’ve found shutting off either of the units for about 5 minutes fixes it immediately.

I wouldn’t hesitate a second to buy Daiken again and if I had to do it over I’d still buy the mits for the “living area” where sound is more important to me.

That's pretty much where I'm at now, Either Daikin or Mitsu. The mitsu is $500 more than the Daikin. So it's not much. When you say better built what do you mean? I've read many posts where people say the Daikin just feels cheap. I also read it's a nightmare cleaning the blower motor in the head rather than Mitsu that makes it very easy to interface and clean it.

-Nigel

 

[housewolf]

I'm not opposed to Pioneer but it's one of those brands I never considered. It was either Daikin or Mitsu. I am ok with buying once and crying once. What I don't want is buying something then later regretting why I didn't spend more money on the original unit that I wanted but cheaped out. We've done that with house projects/doors and it was a nightmare. Should have just spent the money on a Pella and been done with it from the start. We got it worked out with the french door on our patio but it was nothing but problems because we went cheap and didn't buy the better quaility item first.



That's pretty much where I'm at now, Either Daikin or Mitsu. The mitsu is $500 more than the Daikin. So it's not much. When you say better built what do you mean? I've read many posts where people say the Daikin just feels cheap. I also read it's a nightmare cleaning the blower motor in the head rather than Mitsu that makes it very easy to interface and clean it.

-Nigel

I can’t call out specifics either and not so much that the Daiken feels cheap as the Mitsubishi feels like a well built piece. I can’t speak to serviceability on the D but I did have to clean the blower on one of the Mits units (the other probably should be cleaned too) it wasn’t exactly what I’d call easy but I managed.

What drove my decision was guesthouse/shop. The guesthouse runs 24/7/365, people we like occupying the room and we want them to be comfortable. The shop, I run it while I’m out there and if the temp is controlled between 50-80, I AM comfortable. I bought both at contractor pricing and Daiken was half the price of the Mits. Again, Daiken is local to me so I’m sure that helped. Or maybe the Daiken rep just likes me more than the Trane guy

 

[pcmeiners]

"It was either Daikin or Mitsu. I am ok with buying once and crying once."

My (6) minisplits all are Fujitsu. If I were to pick between those two, it would be Mitsubishi, high price but should you ever need service, parts or knowledge Mitsu is the way to go, the most supported minisplit technology out there.

 

[Highbeam]

"It was either Daikin or Mitsu. I am ok with buying once and crying once."

My (6) minisplits all are Fujitsu. If I were to pick between those two, it would be Mitsubishi, high price but should you ever need service, parts or knowledge Mitsu is the way to go, the most supported minisplit technology out there.

Yeah but not if you DIY the install right?

 

[jjrbus]

From what I have read on the net Daikin, Mitsu and Fuji are the top 3. The reason for this is quality of components including thicker copper in the coils. I have had a Daikin evaporator coil fail at 4 years and a PC board fail right after.

Which leads me to wonder should I buy 1 quality unit or 3 cheap units and put 2 away for parts or complete replacement? Whofungpoo units in my area are $350.

 

[NewShockerGuy]

I'm going with Mitsubishi. I know 1000% that as soon as I buy something other than that, I am going to wonder why I didn't just spend the extra $500-600 to get top tier. Even looking at the condenser for the outside unit the Mitsubishi is almost 40lbs heavier than the Daikin. Although Mitsubishi's air handler is not as wide as the Daikin, nor as tall.

I'm going with this unit specifically. It's the hyper heat version with a pan heater.

18,000 BTU 21 SEER Wall Mounted Mitsubishi Mini Split H2i Hyper Heat Single Zone Heat Pump - MZ-FS18NAH

Designed with enhanced efficiency and supreme comfort, the Mitsubishi MSZ-FS18NA2 / MUZ-FS18NAH2 single-zone Mini Split is an ideal wall mounted unit to heat and cool a single room of your home or office. With its enhanced sensors and automatic intelligent controls, the MSZ-FS18NA2 /...

hvacdirect.com

I am almost positive my friend got the same one but a smaller BTU size for his garage. He's clueless with this stuff and has enough money to just pay people to do whatever...lol. But he'll get me the info hopefully this weekend so I can compare.

My next dilemma is trying to decide where to put it.

Side exterior wall is not happening because I have shelving there and I'm not removing it and loosing space to store things. So I am putting it on the back wall.





I had either though position 1 or position 2. Position 1 would be in the center of the garage but then I'd have to run the line set to poisition two almost because that right side wall IS the exterior facing wall. The problem with position 1 is that I can't put the lineset in the soffit/bump out beside it because if I measure down 12" from the ceiling the bottom of the lineset would be way below the bump out. I thought maybe pipe it up and through to the attic since I can easily access it up I don't want to run a condensate pump.

IE: Something like this and it would just look like a bad install I think. Overexerted obviously but orange lines are the lineset, blue line is the condensate line.


Position 2 would probably not be bad, as I don't have to move anything, and the right exterior wall is literally 7 inches, so you'd only see a visible lineset cover or whatever cover I make to hide that small section. The blue tape X mark on the wall would be the hole to go outside. Position 2 makes more sense to me. I don't think there is anything stating that the mini split HAS to be in the center of the room. With how it deflects air I can have it aim to the left/right/middle/wide...etc. So air flow should be no problem. And I guess I could always move position 2 over to the left more.

My one concern as well with reading Mitsu's instructions is they prefer to have the mini split air handler 6.9-7.5' from the ground. If I mount it at position 1, it's almost 10' in the air. If I mount it at position 2, I can get it around 8' in the air. Or does that even matter in a garage with 11' ceilings?

-Nigel

 

[pcmeiners]

"My one concern as well with reading Mitsu's instructions is they prefer to have the mini split air handler 6.9-7.5' from the ground. If I mount it at position 1, it's almost 10' in the air. If I mount it at position 2, I can get it around 8' in the air. Or does that even matter in a garage with 11' ceilings?"

A minuscule concern. They want it at least 6.9-7.5 off the ground, my 12k unit is 9ft up, it cools a 30x36 garage, and at the moment it is also cooling my attached 1800 suft home (temporarily). And what was your concern ?

I am installing all my minispilts with the line sets in the walls, more work but sure looks better.

"Even looking at the condenser for the outside unit the Mitsubishi is almost 40lbs heavier than the Daikin."

Smart move to check out the weights of the units. I do the same, and I double check the data from more than one source

You could go 2" higher on the wall. 90% of the time the units will be at a low CFM air flow.

 

[NewShockerGuy]

Excellent thank you! My concern "was" that by not following manufacture's suggested install would result in a less than happy customer..lol I just want to make sure I'm doing everything 100% correctly when spending this type of money on something and not have it be a flop then ALLLL the HVAC guys will be like "this is why mini splits are NOT a DIY job, you learned an expensive lesson"..hahaha

The height issue is no longer a concern to me at all .

I wish I could put the lineset in the walls but honestly at this pont it's going to be way too much work to do so. If we were building or the garage was bare, 100% no doubt would be in the wall and hidden. I too much prefer the cleaner look but to even be getting this close to having a comfortable garage, I'll take the unsightly line hide to cover the small portion up.

From installation standpoint I think position 2 is better/easier. Position 1 is higher and in the middle of the garage but would show way more ugly lineset compared to Position 2. Which would you go with if you had to choose? Do you think the bulk head would impeded the flow of air on position 2 or again, am I just over analyzing little trival stuff?

I hate to say if it weighs more it's better, but there is something about the "heft" that just makes one feel better when picking something up or working with something.

-Nigel

 

[vavet]

Did you install your Mr. Cool yourself? And the reality of it is I'm not going to have this on probably all the time. It's when I'm working on something in the garage. So I just want to be comfortable while in it. Otherwise I don't really need something running all the time when I am at work for 10+ hours a day. My wife doesn't go in the garage at all for anything, just me.

-Nigel

It was DIY-ish. It was precharged. A friend/coworker has a HVAC hobby, so he helped me install it. He has all the tools to pull a vacuum, shorten/reflare the lines, etc..
I was in the same boat - use the app to set a timer to bring the temp to a comfortable point on the weekends or if I knew I'd be working in there one evening after work. After measuring the actual energy consumption, I said screw it and leave it on all the time. It's less than a dollar per day to keep it comfortable and that's in the worst of winter. It's under $.50/day in summer to keep it cooled.

It's simply not worth it to keep the temp swinging around. Not to sound elitist or cavalier about money, but if you're so concerned about trying to save $100/year on garage HVAC, you're probably not in a position to have a conditioned garage in the first place.

 

[pcmeiners]

"Do you think the bulk head would impeded the flow of air on position 2 or again, am I just over analyzing little trivial stuff?"
,
You are way over concerned, you will not have an issue. If your choice was the cheapest mainland Chinese unit you could find, your concern might be justified.

"I hate to say if it weighs more it's better, but there is something about the "heft" that just makes one feel better when picking something up or working with something."

The reasoning works well when comparing tool box quality.
Than again sometimes manufacturers over state the weight figuring in shipping packaging, but for the most part the reasoning works.

Wait to you see how nice it is to have a cool, comfortably dry garage. I was surprised how much moisture it removes, my garage alone will have about 6 gallons a day removed. Actually was more worried about tool rust than my comfort.

 

[NewShockerGuy]

I didn't realize it was that cheap to run. Most excellent! Yep, a hundred a year is nothing to keep the garage comfortable, heck my 3d printer I'm sure costs way more than that to run and it's constantly printing. I found an excellent source on YouTube of a gentleman going through ALL the steps of a mini split that would be of concern and he lists the tools that he uses. More than likely, I'll be picking up everything he's using. Seems worth it to do a proper install. At first, I was somewhat concerned about the flaring and other things but seeing so many videos it's really not a hard process. Just be thorough. So should be no issues if I have to shorten or cut the line. I'd much rather have a clean install than loops of lineset stashed outside.

Here is the link if it helps anyone. He goes slow and explains everything. Sometimes the camera isn't getting in there but for the most part it's a very informative set of videos. Probably the best I've seen so far.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLrbHoqGceWKSJBdTF3ufWQirhoqpbpTdL

-Nigel

 

[pcmeiners]

"Just be thorough."

As to the flares, I know how to make great flares but for cheap insurance I use these...

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Rectorseal-97216-1-4-and-3-8-Flaretite-Seals-2-Pairs?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=shopping_neutral&utm_campaign=Shopping_Neutral_New_users&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2eilBhCCARIsAG0Pf8uA72nC7emyL7KImCORCNeQvQaklccJPuFytN5MvlweAG72E-t5_mkaAvFZEALw_wcB

I have tested the connection with Flaretites, at less than half the recommended torque setting they did not leak at roughly 500 PSI.
I also purchased some Locktite 554, but have not used yet.

Since I will have 6 minisplits, I have every tool I could need, including recovery equipment. With all the money I save I can afford the new tools.

"I didn't realize it was that cheap to run"

Yes but they are only super cheap to run if they are very high efficiency units at cheap electric rates.

Almost forgot, after flaring and just before connecting blow you lines out with nitrogen.

Do not forget to apply for any utility rebates and tax incentives. This year I should get 4 rebates from the electric company at $400 for each minisplit, and $2000 off my taxes for the minsplits from the IRS. If I get the attic cellulose done this year, I get another $1700 rebate/tax break.

 

[larry4406]

Mount the linesets on the wall below the bulkhead like you show.

Then build a shelf system below the bulkhead with a false back to hide the linesets. More storage so a win.

 

[jjrbus]

I like 2 because you can stand on the tool cabinet and work on it. These are not maintainence free!

 

[larry4406]

@NewShockerGuy

Please keep this thread going!

I’m just south of you in Warrenton and want to do this for my 28x22x9 attached garage.

 

[NewShockerGuy]

"Just be thorough."

As to the flares, I know how to make great flares but for cheap insurance I use these...

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Rectorseal-97216-1-4-and-3-8-Flaretite-Seals-2-Pairs?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=shopping_neutral&utm_campaign=Shopping_Neutral_New_users&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2eilBhCCARIsAG0Pf8uA72nC7emyL7KImCORCNeQvQaklccJPuFytN5MvlweAG72E-t5_mkaAvFZEALw_wcB

I have tested the connection with Flaretites, at less than half the recommended torque setting they did not leak at roughly 500 PSI.
I also purchased some Locktite 554, but have not used yet.

Since I will have 6 minisplits, I have every tool I could need, including recovery equipment. With all the money I save I can afford the new tools.

"I didn't realize it was that cheap to run"

Yes but they are only super cheap to run if they are very high efficiency units at cheap electric rates.

Almost forgot, after flaring and just before connecting blow you lines out with nitrogen.

Do not forget to apply for any utility rebates and tax incentives. This year I should get 4 rebates from the electric company at $400 for each minisplit, and $2000 off my taxes for the minsplits from the IRS. If I get the attic cellulose done this year, I get another $1700 rebate/tax break.

I've never seen those flaretites. Is it a cap that goes on top of the flare part? I normally don't like to add another element that might cause a problem but these look interesting! And you've had good luck with them which is nice.

So that's the only thing I don't have/know how to get is the nitrogen... is this something that a normal person can get?

We JUST got our furnaces and acs replaced over the weekend, so I think we qualify for something. I think for the mini split as well there is something going on. I have to check on that and for sure get whatever is out there.

Mount the linesets on the wall below the bulkhead like you show.

Then build a shelf system below the bulkhead with a false back to hide the linesets. More storage so a win.

I was thinking something like that as well, I'm just not super versed in great wood working skills to be able to make it look carpenter type stuff...lol

My friend said something simlar as well to gain more storage.

I like 2 because you can stand on the tool cabinet and work on it. These are not maintainence free!

Surpringly it looks like you could, but I'm 6'2" and still need a ladder to get up to the ceiling part. When I stand on the work bench I'm about a foot or two too low to be able to comfortably reach/work roughly where that area is.

@NewShockerGuy

Please keep this thread going!

I’m just south of you in Warrenton and want to do this for my 28x22x9 attached garage.

Roger that! I'm definitely going with Mitsubishi now. Everything thus far that I've seen/read I like more so figure I'll spend the $600 difference and get the unit that I will inevitably complain about on "why didn't i just spend the money and get the Mitsubishi". I'm sure my wife will greatly appreciate not having to hear me *****...lol. Have you had anyone come and give you quotes? I'm in utter disbelief how companies in our area are charging so much. I'm all for people making money and they have expenses... but G damn! For a luxury in my garage to cost ALMOST as much as a furnace/ac unit for the main house is just craziness to me.



So I was getting a couple people to look at the area while we were getting our furnaces and AC's replaced in the house. Most of them 100% said for the garage I should be putting the mini split on the exterior wall, not because of sheer ease of installation but because of air flow. Rather than having it mounted at the back of the garage blowing air to the FRONT/garage doors, it's better for the air to circulate from left/right so all the air isn't just blowing to the most inefficient item that's in the garage (two large doors).

Does that make any sense to anyone or are they blowing smoke to me. I don't mind taking recommendations and input as long as it's not just to "make it easy/sell" stuff...etc. I can see how that would make sense though.

Position 2 would be the least disruptive in terms of moving stuff. The side exterior wall would probably be idea because the mini split cold be mounted higher. Isn't directly in the corner of the room and isn't blowing air towards the garage doors. But then I loose a section of the shelving. Which, if I am honest... after really looking through stuff last night on the far left section of the shelving I was like "do I really need this stuff there". Most of the stuff on the top shelves I haven't touched for over a year. Which then begs the question, why have it...

-Nigel

 

[pcmeiners]

I've never seen those flaretites. Is it a cap that goes on top of the flare part?

Yes a small cap, coated with a blue Locktite compound, on the inside and outside.

"So that's the only thing I don't have/know how to get is the nitrogen... is this something that a normal person can get?"

Rent a small tank any welding supply or HVAC supply you will need a regulator design for similar to 400PSI, $50 on Ebay. A normal regulator will fail as the design is for under 200 psi.

'We JUST got our furnaces and acs replaced over the weekend, so I think we qualify for something. I think for the mini split as well there is something going on."

Likely you qualify for rebates from your utility companies and the Federal tax credit . My util gives $400 and the Federal is I believe 30% of the money spent installing in a tax credit up to $2000 per year for minsplits, your furnace is another tax credit . The install includes electric work, paint, tools you buy to do the install. The utility may screw you require a contractor must be used for the minisplit install to get the rebate, you like get one for the furnace.

"Surprisingly it looks like you could, but I'm 6'2" and still need a ladder to get up to the ceiling part. When I stand on the work bench I'm about a foot or two too low to be able to comfortably reach/work roughly where that area is."

This is a tricky part of a wall mount, I am 6'6". You need a shelf to hold the wall mount unit while installing, it is a must have. I bought wall mount brackets at home depot, made a shelf. Place a piece of plywood on the mounted bracket shelf, about $30 for the hardware. Must be capable of holding 40lbs. You move out the plywood so there is an open area
between the wall and the plywood, bit tough but you work from underneath the shelf.

"So I was getting a couple people to look at the area while we were getting our furnaces and AC's replaced in the house. Most of them 100% said for the garage I should be putting the mini split on the exterior wall, not because of sheer ease of installation but because of air flow. Rather than having it mounted at the back of the garage blowing air to the FRONT/garage doors"

Very good point, I thought you had a good reason to mount where you did. My concern was the air flow was cooling/heating the neighbor hood when the garage door opens. If you do not open the garage door often no big deal. On the other hand I agree with the assessment, and it would be an easier install on the exterior wall. A minor note, blowing air over a low insulated area ( like a garage door) will cause a slight increase in heating/cooling cost.

 

[ixlr8]

I had a 15K Mitsubishi unit put in my 22x23 garage with 8' ceilings. In my opinion it is too big. It cools fine but doesn't run long enough to take out the humidity and I am having to run a dehumidifier to keep comfortable in the summer. I have no problem keeping the garage at 72 in the winter. I am guessing, but I think I have R-11 in the walls and R-19 in the ceiling. I am on the eastern shore of VA, Delmarva peninsula.

 

[pcmeiners]

Nigel,

Lxir8 has a good point, I have a 12k for a larger and higher garage, 18k is awfully big for your size garage.