Gutter Repairs

[cls89]

I have a few problems with the gutters on my detached garage and looking for some advice on the best approach to repair.

1. Broken gutter hanger clips and on the one side of the garage the flashing doesn’t overlay the gutter. See photo below. I plan on purchasing some replacement gutter hangers, but with respect to the flashing, do I just raise the gutters so the flashing overlays?



2. Downspout on this same side of the garage sits in the middle of the garage. The gutters slope towards the downspout in both directions. See photo. The slopes seem excessive, or it could just be the sagging from the broken clips? How much of slope do I need towards the downspout? What’s the best way to measure this slope?



3. Corner gutter is sagging. See photo. I’m assuming this caused by the broken clips that surround this corner, and should be correct once I replace the clips? See photo.

 

[Wolley]

Looks like when the roof was redone the extra piece of flashing that went behind the drip edge was disregarded. You probably don't need it. I would put in more hangers, like 1 in each rafter. You don't need much pitch if the gutter is straight. Approx 1/4 inch per 4 ft. You may have to take sections down and snap a chalk line to align the gutter to.

 

[cls89]

Looks like when the roof was redone the extra piece of flashing that went behind the drip edge was disregarded. You probably don't need it. I would put in more hangers, like 1 in each rafter. You don't need much pitch if the gutter is straight. Approx 1/4 inch per 4 ft. You may have to take sections down and snap a chalk line to align the gutter to.

I would like to add the flashing to ensure water drains into the gutter and not behind / down the siding. Do I just purchase one of the gutter aprons and place over the existing flashing (under the shingles and over the existing flashing so it overlays into the gutter)?

2-1/2" x 2" x 10' White Aluminum Gutter Apron

This aluminum gutter apron is perfect for directing water into your gutters. It installs on the roof edge at the eaves and hangs into the gutter.

www.menards.com

Or since there is already a drip edge there, can I just use some roll flashing and tuck it up under the drip edge and over the top of the gutter. See photo below.

 

[captain14]

The drip edge should stand proud of the fascia to allow the water to run off the roof without being wicked back into the building.

 

[cls89]

The drip edge should stand proud of the fascia to allow the water to run off the roof without being wicked back into the building.

I'm trying to imagine this. Are you saying there should be a gap between the drip edge and fascia?

 

[firebirdparts]

yeah, and you can just bend what you already have, I think. You don't have to flash behind it. Just bend it so the water falls into the gutter.

I would not be too positive about raising the gutter. It's a ton of work and you don't gain much of anything, or you may lose if you slope it the wrong way.

 

[Zeke]

The drip edge should stand proud of the fascia to allow the water to run off the roof without being wicked back into the building.

Tell that to the average roofer.

 

[captain14]

I'm trying to imagine this. Are you saying there should be a gap between the drip edge and fascia?

Yes there should be a gap. Maybe this video may help demonstrate.

 

[cls89]

Yes there should be a gap. Maybe this video may help demonstrate.

That makes perfect sense.

So even though the drip edge doesn’t come close to overlaying the gutter (see photo) you still think a bend in the drip edge would be enough to help keep the water draining into the gutter? No need to extend the drip edge with the roll of flashing like in the example from the earlier post?

 

[captain14]

It’s hard to tell from your first pics, but how far do the shingles go past the rear of the gutter? Can you take an overhead pic showing that?

The main idea is to direct the water runoff away from the fascia. I think Tom mentioned that about shingle overhang inThe video I posted.

 

[budget76]

don't overthink it. Get a bunch of these hangers, secure the gutter, bend out the drip edge if it's not away from the fascia some for the reason listed above, and go do more fun projects

 

[cls89]

It’s hard to tell from your first pics, but how far do the shingles go past the rear of the gutter? Can you take an overhead pic showing that?

The main idea is to direct the water runoff away from the fascia. I think Tom mentioned that about shingle overhang inThe video I posted.

Here’s a photo that hopefully shows that relation.

 

[cls89]

Also any tips on how to bend the drip edge when its already installed? Just bend a small section at a time with pry bar or claw on hammer?

 

[Bert_]

On my porch roof that is not quite a 3/12 I had trouble with the common "D" drip edge. The water would not always roll over the hard edge and I had rotten fascia and soft sheathing.

My opinion is the drip edge should get the water several inches from the fascia. Nobody does it this way and I think it's mostly because they want the easy install.

I bent an L out of galvanized metal and slid it underneath the first row of shingles. This drip edge works excellent.