need help wiring table saw for 220V

[BTL-A4]

I would like to wire my Craftsman table saw (152.221140) for 220V. I just had receptacles and a circuit installed in the garage. I will be buying a 220V cord and plug for the TS. The TS instructions just state to follow the wiring diagram on the motor junction box.

Do I attach the gray and red to each other, or do they each get capped off separately?

Right now, for 110V, the black on the power cord goes to yellow and gray on the motor and the white on the power cord goes to red and black on the motor. This is the opposite of what the diagram shows. Is this to reverse the motor? I have not changed anything since I bought the saw new in 2007.


Thanks!

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Doubt that motor is reversable and you wouldn't be able to do it with these leads. Reversing hot and neutral on the 120v wont reverse the motor.

Gray and red get spliced together

Then your ungrounded/hot conductors go to yellow and black. 1 on each.

 

[mm08822]

For your situation, the colors of the cord conductors do not matter(other than green, green/yellow). The connections of the motor winding leads wrt each other is important.
You could reuse the cord and just change the cord end.

 

[dogdog]

It’s only high volt or low volt configuration so…. Just follow the diagram you should be good. Nothing much to it…

 

[BTL-A4]

Doubt that motor is reversable and you wouldn't be able to do it with these leads. Reversing hot and neutral on the 120v wont reverse the motor.

Gray and red get spliced together

Then your ungrounded/hot conductors go to yellow and black. 1 on each.

Thanks, that's what I wasn't sure about. Seems obvious, but I wanted to confirm it.

 

[Zeke]

It says 120/140v on the data plate. If you wire it for 110 it will heat up.

 

[Innovate1]

It says 120/140v on the data plate. If you wire it for 110 it will heat up.

It doesn't say 120/140 on the data plate. And technically you can't wire it for 110 so it won't heat up if you call it 110 and connect it to 120. If you are going to nit pick minutia you could at least check for typos and be accurate yourself. Now 10 other people are going to jump in and have a big debate about 110/115/120 when everyone knows what is meant.

 

[BTL-A4]

Thanks for the help, everyone. It's all wired up. I tested it and it seems to work just fine. I'll have to rip cut some 4/4 oak and see how it does.

 

[BTL-A4]

I've asked about 110/115/120 before and it seems everyone knows you are talking about standard household current. I've heard that it's "theoretically" 120v, but there is voltage loss so it ends up being a little less.

 

[tarmy]

Consider a safety switch as well…if something jams or goes wrong you can stop it with your knee while you use your hands to try to save your ***.

 

[Norcal]

I've asked about 110/115/120 before and it seems everyone knows you are talking about standard household current. I've heard that it's "theoretically" 120v, but there is voltage loss so it ends up being a little less.

Your in California, the PoCo's in CA do not offer 110/220/440V, or 115/230/460V, you get 120/240V, 208/120V, 480/277V, with a few odd ones for existing customers.

 

[Innovate1]

In most cases the source is considered 120/240 and equipment is considered 115/230.

 

[alfredeneuman]

Back in the 1930s the Rural Electric Agency changed the voltage regulations because they didn't want to load down the utility's trucks with supplies for all the voltages they would encounter. They decided on standard voltages (120, 208, 240, 277, 480).
It's been that way ever since.

 

[dave*99]

Thanks for the help, everyone. It's all wired up. I tested it and it seems to work just fine. I'll have to rip cut some 4/4 oak and see how it does.

Use a sharp blade.

When I had to rip a lot of 5/4 Oak, I ended up selling my Craftsman TS and buying a Unisaw. Hopefully your C'man is more powerful than mine was.

Perhaps if I had wired it for 140 and plugged it into 220........ never mind.

 

[mike93lx]

Garage Journal never disappoints for a good voltage debate

 

[sparky 1971]

Garage Journal never disappoints for a good voltage debate

I used my meter at a house and got 244 yesterday. One day last week I was at an office and the same meter told me there was 212 volts. Do I need a new meter?

 

[mike93lx]

I used my meter at a house and got 244 yesterday. One day last week I was at an office and the same meter told me there was 212 volts. Do I need a new meter?

Harbor freight has them for free

 

[WillyBoy]

I used my meter at a house and got 244 yesterday. One day last week I was at an office and the same meter told me there was 212 volts. Do I need a new meter?

Keep in mind this reflects a northeast utility with multiple ties to neighboring utilities and pretty tight regulation.

Are these two different locations on two different circuits? Residential area distribution circuit and light load period could give you the 244 VAC at your house. Another area, maybe commercial, during a heavy load period might have the secondary voltage pulled down to 212 VAC but that seems like a really big drop. Below 220, there would be complaints from customers. If your meter is accurate, your utility has some areas with really poor regulation! I would suggest trying another meter.

 

[sparky 1971]

Keep in mind this reflects a northeast utility with multiple ties to neighboring utilities and pretty tight regulation.

Are these two different locations on two different circuits? Residential area distribution circuit and light load period could give you the 244 VAC at your house. Another area, maybe commercial, during a heavy load period might have the secondary voltage pulled down to 212 VAC but that seems like a really big drop. Below 220, there would be complaints from customers. If your meter is accurate, your utility has some areas with really poor regulation! I would suggest trying another meter.

That's actually quite a funny explanation. 244 on a 240 volt circuit with no load is nothing. The same for 212 when it's a 208 volt circuit.

One was a house, the other an office and it was different weeks. Read the post again.

I just want to know if I need a new meter.

 

[Max]

I have a Jet contractors saw that I wired for 240v. It might start a bit faster, and it may run a bit better under load due to lower voltage drops. But if it does run better on 240V it’s very minimal. I set my Jet to 240v to match the Unisaw next to it. I agree the best improvement would be a good thin kerf blade for the kind of cutting you are doing.

 

[Innovate1]

Harbor freight has them for free

Which is about what they are worth for serious work.

 

[WillyBoy]

If you're entertaining the idea that it's time for a new meter, that answers the question. Treat yourself. Is it possible to have too many meters?

 

[mike93lx]

Which is about what they are worth for serious work.

You don't say?!

 

[sparky 1971]

Which is about what they are worth for serious work.

DMM's have functions that the average Joe not only won't use, but doesn't know what they are. For the most part, voltage and maybe continuity are all that are needed. I have a cheap meter that may be a HF special that was given to me by an ooooold customer. He really thought he was doing me a favor and I didn't have the heart to say no, I just figured I'd throw it away. I still have it, it's in my garage. I used it on yhe job and as far as voltage readings go, it worked every bit as well as my Fluke. Continuity is continuity, you either have it or you don't.

 

[Zeke]

It doesn't say 120/140 on the data plate. And technically you can't wire it for 110 so it won't heat up if you call it 110 and connect it to 120. If you are going to nit pick minutia you could at least check for typos and be accurate yourself. Now 10 other people are going to jump in and have a big debate about 110/115/120 when everyone knows what is meant.

It doesn't? I should get my eyes checked. And in case you are not aware, green font on forums stands for 'just kidding'. It's the same as

Now, again, those numbers on the plate showing voltages — what does 240V stand for in your understanding?

 

[Innovate1]

It doesn't. I should get my eyes checked. And in case you are not aware, green font on forums stands for 'just kidding'. It's the same as

Was not aware of the green font thing. Don't think I have seen it before but maybe I did and just didn't know. Guess I'm getting too old for all the subtle nuances and such. And get off my lawn!

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I've asked about 110/115/120 before and it seems everyone knows you are talking about standard household current. I've heard that it's "theoretically" 120v, but there is voltage loss so it ends up being a little less.

Nominal residential power in the US is 120/240 (and very rarely 208/120 single phase off a 3phase wye service). There might be a little loss due to being on the end of a line but 8% or more (110v) is pretty high and should be checked out. Most utilities have a 5% acceptable variance- 114 to 126V.

So when someone says 110 or 220 it’s a bit off. Plus there are countries that use those voltages and since this is an internationally available forum its best to use the correct voltages

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Keep in mind this reflects a northeast utility with multiple ties to neighboring utilities and pretty tight regulation.

Are these two different locations on two different circuits? Residential area distribution circuit and light load period could give you the 244 VAC at your house. Another area, maybe commercial, during a heavy load period might have the secondary voltage pulled down to 212 VAC but that seems like a really big drop. Below 220, there would be complaints from customers. If your meter is accurate, your utility has some areas with really poor regulation! I would suggest trying another meter.

Ummm 212v would be from a 208Y/120 service…

 

[Innovate1]

Ummm 212v would be from a 208Y/120 service…

Yeah. I think Sparky intentionally left out some details of what he was measuring and toying with people... I used my meter the other day and it read 25V. Nothing wrong with anything - it was the control circuit in a furnace that is 24VAC nominal.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

It doesn't? I should get my eyes checked. And in case you are not aware, green font on forums stands for 'just kidding'. It's the same as

Now, again, those numbers on the plate showing voltages — what does 240V stand for in your understanding?

That’s news to me. Never heard of this before

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Yeah. I think Sparky intentionally left out some details of what he was measuring and toying with people... I used my meter the other day and it read 25V. Nothing wrong with anything - it was the control circuit in a furnace that is 24VAC nominal.

Naw i knew he was referring to a 208Y service

 

[RPH]

Back in the eighties I installed a new sterilizer in the central processing are in the local hospital. Sterilizer was latest edition with all the bells, whistles one could want. Plus is was a first generation of the digital platform, computers were new then. They were a half mile or so doesn’t the road from belle river power plant. I get the call that the sterilizer is shutting off at 3:30 pm daily. Thus many packages of instruments had to start over at the beginning of washing and move through the system.
I show up and right around that time it shuts the circuit breaker on the power supply off. I couldn’t find a reason, so I checked the set points on the trip levels. Moved high up a bit. Next day, it’s off again. Go back in and monitor the incoming power to unit and the voltage spiked high enough to break the high limit no matter where it was set. Hospital was too close to power plant and when shops shut down it takes a moment for correction at the power plant. Best advice I could give the customer was start a load to finish before 3:15 pm or start after 3:30 pm.

 

[nadogail]

It appears that the OP has his saw up and running, the "Electrical Voltage Police" can now wait for their next Perpetrator.

 

[Zeke]

That’s news to me. Never heard of this before

Might not have caught on everywhere. This site doesn't use the green emoji either. So maybe I won't do that.

 

[Zeke]

Anyway, what is wrong with saying a voltage drop may cause a motor to overheat? It's happened to me.

 

[nadogail]

Anyway, what is wrong with saying a voltage drop may cause a motor to overheat? It's happened to me.

I think it happens a lot more often than many people realize.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Anyway, what is wrong with saying a voltage drop may cause a motor to overheat? It's happened to me.

If the motor is overheating due to voltage drop, then the overloads are not working properly

 

[dogdog]

Let’s declare it is officially 115v/230v you know what I mean jellybean

 

[Norcal]

Let’s declare it is officially 115v/230v you know what I mean jellybean

Totally incorrect for a supply voltage, but for motors is correct, but the OP's motor is listed as 120/240V, that and 110/220V are typical for garbage motors from Asia.

 

[dogdog]

Totally incorrect for a supply voltage, but for motors is correct, but the OP's motor is listed as 120/240V, that and 110/220V are typical for garbage motors from Asia.

Lol so 115v won’t run that motor cause it’s not from Asia ?