Removing a gas oven ignitor for replacement or cleaning

[branimal]

I'm trying to remove my non-functioning oven ignitor but the white insulated wires aren't pulling forward to reveal the white plastic unclip section. I'd rather not pull the oven out to remove the wires b/c it's a tight fit.

Also the screws holding the ignitor to the heating element (L-shaped metal piece) just spin when trying to pull them off. I tried pushing on the screw tips with a screwdriver while unscrewing with an impact driver. No luck.

The ignitor doesn't seem to be in terrible shape. I was hoping that cleaning it off would get it working again. So the problem could be elsewhere.


Any advice on how to proceed?

 

[Milton Shaw]

A lot of replacement ignitors come with bare wires and ceramic wire nuts that will stand the heat. Unplug the stove and cut wires and splice the new one in. If you can push wire nuts back through the back/bottom to get them out of the way.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

Remove the igniter first. It will make it easier to get the connector out. On mine I believe I had to remove the bottom panel in the oven.

 

[rlitman]

Those screws are stripped. Grab the screw heads with pliers (small Vise Grips are best if you don't want pinched fingers) end-on, PULL and rotate and you may get some threads to start to bite to the point you can unscrew them. It might work better turning it slowly like that than your push and impact try. Another option would be to see if you can get **** jaws under the head while unscrewing. Regardless, once stripped, they're going to be difficult, and I'd replace them with stainless machine screws and matching nuts now.

The last time I had an ignitor "fail" it too looked just fine, and worked a little bit. But these hot surface ignitors are not cleanable. When they start to fail they can still glow, but the current draw will be insufficient to get the gas valve to open reliably.

Are you positive there's a mating plastic clip in the oven? Many universal replacement kits expect you to cut off the clip and use the included ceramic wire nuts.

 

[branimal]

I managed to pull out the ignitor plug. Took some finagling. I tested it for continuity and I got zero. I'll go ahead and order a new one.

@rlitman I'll try removing the screw with vise grips. Now that I have the ignitor out I can bring it to a proper work area and have at it.

Thanks guys

 

[gmcgeo]

When they stop working, its due to it shorting out. i do not believe you can clean these porcelain ignitor. i have always replaced them

 

[rlitman]

When they stop working, its due to it shorting out. i do not believe you can clean these porcelain ignitor. i have always replaced them

No, they fail open.

...@rlitman I'll try removing the screw with vise grips. Now that I have the ignitor out I can bring it to a proper work area and have at it...

Good luck! With it out, you can clamp that frame in a vise and hammer on the tips of the screws. Maybe even just pound them out. Or shift them out enough to get a hacksaw blade under the head and then turn/pull them back in after cutting off the heads.

If you don't want to use the nut/bolt (because holding the nut on there WILL make the job more difficult), you could try to go a size up. Stick with stainless though.

 

[branimal]

I cut the screws out with a hacksaw. I tested the old ignitor with a multimeter and there was no continuity. Got the new ignitor in and the oven is working fine.


Thanks for the help.

 

[Jayman17]

Those igniters don’t last very long, at least in my oven. I think I got just over 2 years on the last replacement I installed.

 

[rlitman]

So I replaced the igniter on my upper oven this weekend. Timing, huh.

I have a GE oven, so I bought the one that looks like the OP's, but when I got everything open, I discovered that the original didn't have that style cage. No matter, I swapped the stainless cage from the original, since the cage was in perfect shape and the igniters themselves were the same, but then I discovered that this model didn't have a plastic connector either. Time for the ceramic wire nuts, and I'm back in shape for cookie season.

 

[rlitman]

Those igniters don’t last very long, at least in my oven. I think I got just over 2 years on the last replacement I installed.

They run 100% of the time that your're burning gas, so if you use your oven a lot, that eats into their life. Anything that drips on them will kill them quickly. Knowing those two things, it makes sense that I've never seen a broiler igniter fail.

 

[gmcgeo]

Those igniters don’t last very long, at least in my oven. I think I got just over 2 years on the last replacement I installed.

mine has been working for 5 years so far, wife cooks a lot.

 

[branimal]

They run 100% of the time that your're burning gas, so if you use your oven a lot, that eats into their life. Anything that drips on them will kill them quickly.

The ignitor gave out - I got about 8 months on it. I use the oven quite a bit - both to cook and reheat food. I don't have a microwave.

I wonder if buying a genuine GE replacement ignitor for ~2x the price is worth it.

 

[ratflinger]

The ignitor gave out - I got about 8 months on it. I use the oven quite a bit - both to cook and reheat food. I don't have a microwave.

I wonder if buying a genuine GE replacement ignitor for ~2x the price is worth it.

No - They are all made by Robert-Shaw under license from CoorsTek. As long as it looks like the old one it will probably work, but you should cross reference the R-S catalogs. The igniters specs are matched to the gas valve specs.

 

[JJ Quick]

The broiler ignitor in my Bosch range expired.
Parts guy sold me a "replacement", same size and shape.
I installed it, hit the switch, gas valve did not open.
Of course, Bosch part is nla. $40 I will never see again.
And the broiler is still off-line.

For the oven ignitor, the GE part works fine and is half as much as Bosch.

YMMV.

JJ

 

[rlitman]

The broiler ignitor in my Bosch range expired.
Parts guy sold me a "replacement", same size and shape.
I installed it, hit the switch, gas valve did not open.
Of course, Bosch part is nla. $40 I will never see again.
And the broiler is still off-line.

For the oven ignitor, the GE part works fine and is half as much as Bosch.

YMMV.

JJ

Clamp meter the current running to the new and old igniters. Check the resistance on the solenoids.

 

[Firebrick43]

I have seen a failed igniter take out the gas valve as well.

. They need to see 3.0 amps or more to open. Many time they will be glowing but not pulling enough amps to open the valve (2.7-2.8 amps)

Also touching a new igniter with your fingers will lower its life.

The valve itself should have continuity and low resistance, as in 1 - 2 ohms

Also some stoves have overheat bimetal disc pop switches. See if you are even getting a 120v to the connector of the igniter when you command that burner.

 

[WagonHo!]

I have seen a failed igniter take out the gas valve as well.

. They need to see 3.0 amps or more to open. Many time they will be glowing but not pulling enough amps to open the valve (2.7-2.8 amps)

Also touching a new igniter with your fingers will lower its life.

The valve itself should have continuity and low resistance, as in 1 - 2 ohms

Also some stoves have overheat bimetal disc pop switches. See if you are even getting a 120v to the connector of the igniter when you command that burner.

Yep just the natural oils on your fingers will do as you say. Like the old incandescent light bulbs wear gloves when installing.