Overhead Door Rails... Plumb?

[jaw22w]

The OH doors in my new pole barn were installed right after the building was erected. I now need to install 1/2" OSB in the interior and the OSB must go under the standoff brackets for the rails of the OH door. Before I removed the brackets, I checked the rails down the doors for plumb. Each door had one side plumb and the other side angling in at the bottom. My first thought is to plumb the out of plumb rails upon reinstallation. Now I am wondering if there is a reason for the door tracks to be narrowing towards the bottom? Or is just a case of poor original installation?
I knew they were out of plumb before I checked them. It hurt my eyes.

 

[Sno-Pro]

They are installed correctly as is. That is how the door seal against the jamb. Notice the hinge/rollers are different sizes from the top one to the bottom one.

 

[larry_g]

They are installed correctly as is. That is how the door seal against the jamb. Notice the hinge/rollers are different sizes from the top one to the bottom one.

The above is correct. While the door is closed I think you'll find that the door flush with the post top to bottom, sealing the door to the post. The combination of the different hinge/roller heights and the slope of the track move the door down and forward so it contacts the seals at the last moment so that the door doesn't slide along the seals as it moves up and down.



lg
no neat sig line

 

[billconner]

Each door had one side plumb and the other side angling in at the bottom.

I agree with replies but don't understand this. Both rails should slope a little and the same.

 

[racecougar]

With reference to "angling in", which direction is "in". Toward the opening or toward the wall? The two vertical tracks should be closer to the wall at the bottom than at the top. With respect to the opening (side to side), they should be plumb. Lastly, both sides should match one another.

 

[jaw22w]

Sorry! I didn't make myself clear. Yes, the rails angle in towards the wall at the bottom, and the angle is all built into the various length brackets. I understand the reason for this. My question is the other direction. One side is plumb and the other side angles in toward the door at the bottom. I know that this arrangement causes the roller wheels to move in and out due to the narrowing tracks. I am no OH door installer, but when I noticed this condition, it made me wonder if there was reason for it that I couldn't see. Upon re-installation, I will install them plumb, and put the original installation down as poor work. My new laser makes rail alignment a piece of cake.
I figured plumb was best but had to ask.
Thanks guys.

 

[jstroede]

having the tracks slightly narrower at the bottom serves to help center the door in the opening. It doesn't need much, but the slight taper at the bottom will funnel the door to the correct position when it is closed.

If you are doing this at the vertical tracks, are you doing the same around the top with the spring assemblies? If yes, that brings up a new set of complications to deal with.

John

 

[firebirdparts]

Leave it.

 

[jaw22w]

f you are doing this at the vertical tracks, are you doing the same around the top with the spring assemblies? If yes, that brings up a new set of complications to deal with.

All door hardware is getting OSB under it. I can do this with the door in place. I will have to relieve the tension on the spring assembly. I can do it one side at a time with the door down.

This is the cleanest way I can think of to finish around the doors. I looked at coping for all the brackets. NAH! I thought about just stopping the OSB short of the brackets. Didn't like that idea either. Either way looks like an afterthought. Best solution is to run the OSB under all the brackets, moving the door back 1/2". The door seals were already installed, so I will just have to move them back 1/2".

OK. Here's my plan (already started). With the door all the way up, I removed the lag screws from the lower 3 brackets and installed the first 4' of OSB under the bottom 2 brackets. The 3rd is above the sheet of OSB. I was able to reinstall the lags in the first and second bracket up from the floor. I think this will now let me remove the 4 lags in the top of the rail for the door opening assemblage and the lags holding the tension holding spring bracket in the center of the shaft (with door down and after removing spring tension). I can then slide the OSB under it all and reattach the top of the rail. Move to the other side and repeat. Reattach the spring bracket and wind up the spring. Pretty sure it will work. I'm already halfway there.
See anything wrong with this?

 

[jaw22w]

having the tracks slightly narrower at the bottom serves to help center the door in the opening. It doesn't need much, but the slight taper at the bottom will funnel the door to the correct position when it is closed.

Yep! I can see that! Maybe those installers had it right!