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Wiring adjustments to my house

wcp0611

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Rockvale, TN
Long story short, we had an addition built that extended the gable end of our house out 18'. Due to this, the electrical service coming from the street which was on that wall has to be moved from there to the new wall that is the gable end of our house 18' away from the original. I had the electric company advise me on moving that service and it was decided that this is a good time to go from 200 amp to 400 (360) amp service as its free, I just have to cover the cost of the materials up to the weatherhead and they'd run new wiring to my house from the pole. I bought the 400 amp meter base and 2 200 amp main disconnect to feed off of it. Got my #4 ground wire and two eight foot grounding rods to drive in so that part is good. The county codes which has to pass me before the electric company will turn off service and run new, is requiring I use 750 mcm wiring from the weatherhead to the base for the leads and 350 mcm for the common. I got that along with my riser, weatherhead kit, and the conduit between the base and the to mains panels. At this point, I need to run the wire from one of the mains into the wall behind it and up the inside that wall to the attic space and run it over 20 feet and junction/splice it with the original wire that goes to the main sub in my house. That's a 100 amp panel.

Long story, but I wanted to give the overall picture of what I'm doing. I have a few questions on this project.

1. Does the wire that goes from the 100 amp breaker in my main disconnect that needs to run into the wall behind it need to be in conduit in the wall as it runs to the attic space above? Does it require any special framing or safeguards to that wall before we sheetrock it or can it run as-is, without conduit or anything inside the wall as it runs to the attic? What specific wire type should I be using?

2. Does it require conduit in the attic run?

3. Given the original wire I'm splicing is #2, I am just going to use #2, but can I just install a junction box in my attic and splice the two? If so, how would I splice them in the box? Like, what actual product do I use to make the inspector happy?
 
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mike93lx

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Conduit is required where wires are subject to damage or if the cable does not have an outer sheathing.

What type of wire did you get? SER is OK out of conduit if it is protected from damage, but all individual conductors require conduit for their entire run

Large gauge splices are onten done with either split bolts or Polaris connectors. Polaris are more expensive, but easier to work with and come preinsulated
 
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wcp0611

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Rockvale, TN
Just explaining to you that you don’t have to be a hack

Conduit is required where wires are subject to damage or if the cable does not have an outer sheathing.

What type of wire did you get? SER is OK out of conduit if it is protected from damage, but all individual conductors require conduit for their entire run

Large gauge splices are onten done with either split bolts or Polaris connectors. Polaris are more expensive, but easier to work with and come preinsulated
Do Polaris connectors have to be in a junction box?
 
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wcp0611

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Yes. All splices require an enclosure
Off your recommendation, I went and bought three polaris splicers when I went to get my 750mcm wire. I bought a 6x6 pvc box to use. The kind you have drill your own holes in and some clamps to secure the wires. I'm planning on running all the wires into it and using the Polaris splicers and then taping the connections really good. How does that sound?
 

mike93lx

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This is downstream of a 200a disconnect correct? If so, it had to be a 4 wire feeder.

6x6 doesn't sound anywhere near big enough to splice 750mcm
 

wyliesdiesels

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Modesto, CA
#4 for the GEC for the rods is overkill. #6 is fine.

750MCM is way overkill for 400a service. under the old chart (T310.15(B)(7)) 400MCM was the right size.... youre not gonna have fun splicing that size wire...
 

wyliesdiesels

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Modesto, CA
Long story short, we had an addition built that extended the gable end of our house out 18'. Due to this, the electrical service coming from the street which was on that wall has to be moved from there to the new wall that is the gable end of our house 18' away from the original. I had the electric company advise me on moving that service and it was decided that this is a good time to go from 200 amp to 400 (360) amp service as its free, I just have to cover the cost of the materials up to the weatherhead and they'd run new wiring to my house from the pole. I bought the 400 amp meter base and 2 200 amp main disconnect to feed off of it. Got my #4 ground wire and two eight foot grounding rods to drive in so that part is good. The county codes which has to pass me before the electric company will turn off service and run new, is requiring I use 750 mcm wiring from the weatherhead to the base for the leads and 350 mcm for the common. I got that along with my riser, weatherhead kit, and the conduit between the base and the to mains panels. At this point, I need to run the wire from one of the mains into the wall behind it and up the inside that wall to the attic space and run it over 20 feet and junction/splice it with the original wire that goes to the main sub in my house. That's a 100 amp panel.

Long story, but I wanted to give the overall picture of what I'm doing. I have a few questions on this project.

1. Does the wire that goes from the 100 amp breaker in my main disconnect that needs to run into the wall behind it need to be in conduit in the wall as it runs to the attic space above? Does it require any special framing or safeguards to that wall before we sheetrock it or can it run as-is, without conduit or anything inside the wall as it runs to the attic? What specific wire type should I be using?

2. Does it require conduit in the attic run?
all depends on the type of wire you use. sheathed cable? nope. individual conductors? yup
3. Given the original wire I'm splicing is #2, I am just going to use #2, but can I just install a junction box in my attic and splice the two? If so, how would I splice them in the box? Like, what actual product do I use to make the inspector happy?
this wire is for the 100a subpanel? #2 cu is overkill. you can use #3 cu to save some money. Make sure you run 4-wires as its a subpanel and needs to have an isolated neutral bar. the EGC can be #8 cu
 
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wcp0611

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Rockvale, TN
#4 for the GEC for the rods is overkill. #6 is fine.

750MCM is way overkill for 400a service. under the old chart (T310.15(B)(7)) 400MCM was the right size.... youre not gonna have fun splicing that size wire...
#4 and 750mcm is what my inspector told me to use. The electric company inspector gave me lesser wire sizes, but the county electrical inspector who has to pass me first gave me the bigger sizes.
 
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wcp0611

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This is downstream of a 200a disconnect correct? If so, it had to be a 4 wire feeder.

6x6 doesn't sound anywhere near big enough to splice 750mcm
No, there is confusion here. I was just saying I bought the Polaris splicers when I went to buy my 750mcm wire. That 750 MCM is meant for the riser. The 6x6 box and Polaris splicers are for the #2 wire I have going from my old disconnect outside to the main breaker inside. That is the wire I have to pull from the old main disconnect and splice to the new disconnect 18' away.
 
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wcp0611

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all depends on the type of wire you use. sheathed cable? nope. individual conductors? yup

this wire is for the 100a subpanel? #2 cu is overkill. you can use #3 cu to save some money. Make sure you run 4-wires as its a subpanel and needs to have an isolated neutral bar. the EGC can be #8 cu
Its for a 100A sub yes. I bought #2 aluminum, not copper. And the inspectors here require #4 grounded to two eight foot rods six feet away. Can't tell you why. They just require it.
 
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wyliesdiesels

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#4 and 750mcm is what my inspector told me to use. The electric company inspector gave me lesser wire sizes, but the county electrical inspector who has to pass me first gave me the bigger sizes.
You should ask them if this is a local WRITTEN amendment. If not then theyre blowing smoke up your rear
 

wyliesdiesels

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Its for a 100A sub yes. I bought #2 aluminum, not copper. And the inspectors here require #4 grounded to two eight foot rods six feet away. Can't tell you why. They just require it.
Again is that a local WRITTEN amendment? Inspectors cant require anything. They arent the authority having jurisdiction. They are a representative of the AHJ. The AHJ would be the one requiring it and unless its written, its bogus…

And as said above, #2 AL is too small for 100a…
 
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wcp0611

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#2 copper not aluminum. My bad. Could've sworn I bought AL but it is the right stuff. As far as the inspector not being able to require it, I could argue it, but I most definitely won't. I need this done in the next three weeks and don't need him be a ***** for the rest of our time together. I'll just pay more a be done with him sooner.
 

sparky 1971

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#2 copper not aluminum. My bad. Could've sworn I bought AL but it is the right stuff. As far as the inspector not being able to require it, I could argue it, but I most definitely won't. I need this done in the next three weeks and don't need him be a ***** for the rest of our time together. I'll just pay more a be done with him sooner.
Good luck. 750 is gonna be a beotch. I'd fight that tooth and nail. Make sure it will fit in the lugs of the meter. You can change them to larger if need be.
 
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wcp0611

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Good luck. 750 is gonna be a beotch. I'd fight that tooth and nail. Make sure it will fit in the lugs of the meter. You can change them to larger if need be.
I ended up doing just that. Swapped the lugs to some Square D ones off ebay that take 750 max. Waiting on a call from the electric company about position of my riser and weatherhead. Because of windows on the wall that the service needs to be moved to, my riser will sit almost horizontal with the pole at the street. I kind of remember the electric company guy saying that it had to be so many feet lower than the service origination point. Trying to see if my riser and weatherhead and just mount to the side of my house instead of running up three feet over the roofline. There are many houses around me that have that set up so I can't see it being a problem.
 
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wcp0611

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Can someone enlighten me on what the codes say about how far away from a window the main disconnect on the side of my house has to be?
 

duneslider

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No direct answer for you but the one on my house is inches from a window. When we were deciding where to put it the electrician told me as long as it fits it will work.
 

mike93lx

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Can someone enlighten me on what the codes say about how far away from a window the main disconnect on the side of my house has to be?
Not aware of a spacing requirement. Gas meters are a different story.

The panel needs to be clear in front of them though
 

sparky 1971

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Can someone enlighten me on what the codes say about how far away from a window the main disconnect on the side of my house has to be?
There isn't unless it's a local amendment. If it's an overhead service, there is a distance that the weather head has to be from a window and some people get confused.
 
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wcp0611

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Good luck. 750 is gonna be a beotch. I'd fight that tooth and nail. Make sure it will fit in the lugs of the meter. You can change them to larger if need be.
I fully believe it will be. AL may help over copper, but its very heavy and stiff wire.
 
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wcp0611

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I talked to the electrical inspector about moving my service from above my roof to the side of my house. I have to attach an eye bolt to the fascia for the service wire to be pulled to. Anyone know how I should beef up the fascia there to hold the wire? Its about 60ft of line running 360 amp wiring to my house. That's got to be crazy heavy.
 

mike93lx

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I talked to the electrical inspector about moving my service from above my roof to the side of my house. I have to attach an eye bolt to the fascia for the service wire to be pulled to. Anyone know how I should beef up the fascia there to hold the wire? Its about 60ft of line running 360 amp wiring to my house. That's got to be crazy heavy.
Get it into framing or add more in there. You may have to remove some of what's there to get it done.
 
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