The VISES of Garage Journal

[sns1938]

Repaired Wilton 4”. Paid $40. Planning to restore for a learning project, and pass onto one of my kids.

1) do I put everything, once disassembled, into the electrolysis bath, or do I need to mask the chrome(?) inner part?
2) is this from 1935, or is that the model?

Thanks

 

[TheRealZeus]

Nice. Try to post some pics when she's still dippin but clean I love emm like that.

 

[TheRealZeus]

This is after ~16-ish hours in simple green. Rudy falls off.

 

[TheRealZeus]

All you need is simple green, PPE, brass brushes. And for the love of gawd… everyone to stop asking you to do stuff. (Minimal interruption)

 

[TheRealZeus]

Bingo… She is a Stanley no. 766

 

[master Zoda]

Bingo… She is a Stanley no. 766

That's the big girl.

 

[master Zoda]

All you need is simple green, PPE, brass brushes. And for the love of gawd… everyone to stop asking you to do stuff. (Minimal interruption)

I like a stainles brush I think the brass ones leave a bit of brass color behind.

 

[TheRealZeus]

Bingo… She is a Stanley no. 766

 

[Debcrow]

I have some questions about this Vise.
Western Hardware ExcelAll 400 swivel base, Milwaukee Wis.

Apparently not the Western Tool company who made the Champion Vise

I cannot find much information on this company. Just one reference that it might be the same company as Western Hardware & Specialty company. Founded in the 1930's? Anybody know anything about this company or the age of this Vise?
It works well despite the poor repaint on it.

 

[TheRealZeus]

I like a stainles brush I think the brass ones leave a bit of brass color behind.

Indeed! Your referring to yellowing, as present in picture for example. I have a secret. put it back in simple green couple minutes then brush her again, and wipe, and wipe down clean immediately… if you frequently start, and stop, and start, and stop the brass yellowing will occur.
You get a feel for it about the 5th, maybe 6th vise.

Still worthy to note WRT brass brushing method; It will take longer, but takes away less from the tool. Working with the brass brushes is far gentler, but it is more time consuming. It never fails for me, although congruently, it is a pain in the azz… I sit on this driveway, alone, for weeks… soon as I’m working any tool… the Gawddamn driveway is a gathering spot, and everybody in the world wants to come ask me to do something else…. It’s mind-bogglingly stressful. I am trying to find a way to tell people this, without going to the lengths of putting up club ropes, nor a sign that says, “GTFO!!!”

 

[TheRealZeus]

What was I talking about? Ah, brass gilding….

covered it… the nut pin: clamping arm is of course cast in, as well as not in line with the clamp screw, so I cut off a nail as a punch, and used another vise for clamping force.. this is a lot of finagling, but the vise is not a press, so I used a soft mallet to mechanically agitate, while pressing the nail/punch against the pin. (Pop sound) she came out well

 

[TheRealZeus]

Gawd dang people keep talking to me… they survived since one brought me pair of P&C cutters… anywho, I am about to wrap up for the day. More simp soaking overnight.. specifically the static, now removed nut, and pin. then continue tomorrow.

 

[TheRealZeus]

Repaired Wilton 4”. Paid $40. Planning to restore for a learning project, and pass onto one of my kids.

1) do I put everything, once disassembled, into the electrolysis bath, or do I need to mask the chrome(?) inner part?
2) is this from 1935, or is that the model?

Thanks

There is an insert rectangular bar on the bottom of the cylindrical slide, specifically to keep it in line and not rotational. There may be remnants of a ‘guarantee expired date’ stamped on that slide bar underneath… from there you can determine date of production. That ‘1935’ is called a casting number.

 

[Fierljeppen]

Repaired Wilton 4”. Paid $40. Planning to restore for a learning project, and pass onto one of my kids.

1) do I put everything, once disassembled, into the electrolysis bath, or do I need to mask the chrome(?) inner part?
2) is this from 1935, or is that the model?

Thanks

It's a Wilton model no. C0 combination vise, circa "Chicago" (1950-1956). You mentioned it was a 4" vise, but a C0 is actually a 3-1/2" vise. The photo below is of the same model and era as your vise, with the "C0" casting where yours was apparently removed in a repair.



No need to tape anything off for your electrolysis bath. Good luck and enjoy the restoration!

 

[TheRealZeus]

There is an insert rectangular bar on the bottom of the cylindrical slide, specifically to keep it in line and not rotational. There may be remnants of a ‘guarantee expired date’ stamped on that slide bar underneath… from there you can determine date of production. That ‘1935’ is called a casting number.

Hopefully, someone else can chime in WRT your electrolysis question.. I do not utilize the method.

 

[TheRealZeus]

I like a stainles brush I think the brass ones leave a bit of brass color behind.

Here is a good read about the issues.

brass brush leaving residue on plane body

www.lumberjocks.com

 

[sns1938]

1950-1956

Thanks, I figured 1935 seemed too old, and also thought it looked smaller than 4", but the seller said that it had 4 stamped on it somewhere that I've not found.

I'll set up the bath one day this week, it'll be my first time doing it. I did a 1960's or so Craftsman with wire wheels on an angle grinder one, and it's still good, but wanted to try electrolysis this time.

Thanks.

 

[12vx2]

Here is a good read about the issues.

brass brush leaving residue on plane body

www.lumberjocks.com

Zeus, Firearms barrel cleaning solutions will remove it. Look for the ones that are for copper fouling. I have used copper and brass inserts in barrel vises and if there are any smears on the external surfaces, it removes them nicely. I have used whatever brand is handy, they all worked well at removing the discoloring.

 

[cretedog]

Just got a big push at work behind me and started on a stand for a Wilton C-3 yesterday. Hoping to get it done, and the vise redone before winter.

Base- Gear from sugar factory 365lbs
Column- Steam injector? from scrap yard 85lbs
Plate- 30lbs
Vise- 160lbs

Total- 640lbs

Will be 45" to the top of the jaws, and the Big Wilton hangs forward enough that I don't think the gear will be too much of a toe stubber.

CD

 

[TheRealZeus]

Checked on her at… like 12:40am, logic/reason being to make sure still completely submerged, as I keep my containers mostly open vessel.

Just completed a 15-20 minute brushing session, concentrating on the scale spots that did not fall off over night.

 

[TheRealZeus]

Glance over several sides now, for your review. The yellowing we previously discussed is not occurring, but did when I did that spot we discussed dry, earlier. There is the trick.. probably cutting off oxygen for the chemical bonding. If one brass brushes dry, that may occur. Perhaps a non-vise experiment is in order… for the fun of it. So whoever wants to volunteer THEIR cast tools, go nuts and let us know how it goes. It sure use a scientific method in publisher results!

Now, I’ll do a rinse and swap out new simple green… that should be the last dip/soak for this piece. At least, I had hope this would be the last, but I go until it is done, throughly. This is the sailor prepping to paint in me, probably...

 

[TheRealZeus]

At this dumpoff/change out I have achieve a point of restoration, where I am confident that anything the tool picked up on it’s life, is devoid of most brake dust, lead paint, or any other toxic remnants, she may have procured over the years, that I am gloves off.
My phone battery 🪫 died, so there was an interruption, for about an hour +

 

[TheRealZeus]

she had a spacer plate with the nut, I don’t discard that unless I deem it unnecessary, but go with ya gut, I guess… you do you.

 

[TheRealZeus]

I had a senior chief in the Navy with an immaculate woodshop on base, that was his duty station. The dude knew nothing about woodworking, it was an easy senior slackoff job/orders, which is a comfort of khaki wearing dudes close to retirement. I use the woodshop and he got nervous… I said you won’t even know I was here. He liked that. Clean up your mess, and be invisible as possible. Based on the state of many peoples garages/shops around me, felt the need to say that. Surprised some of these dudes shops have not burned down.

 

[TheRealZeus]

Zeus, Firearms barrel cleaning solutions will remove it. Look for the ones that are for copper fouling. I have used copper and brass inserts in barrel vises and if there are any smears on the external surfaces, it removes them nicely. I have used whatever brand is handy, they all worked well at removing the discoloring.

Noted this. I’ll look into it. Thx!

 

[jjenri]

A little before and after of my Reed 206 since Friday. Man… what a transformation. So the stand ended up weighing over 500 lbs…. My poor wife trying to help me dolly it into the garage.

I don’t need a 6 inch vise… but I wanted one. I do all work in my vehicles so it will come in handy for suspension work!

I was going to clean it and put BLO on it but this color really suits it well (verde green).

 

[TheRealZeus]

I have some questions about this Vise.
Western Hardware ExcelAll 400 swivel base, Milwaukee Wis.

Apparently not the Western Tool company who made the Champion Vise

I cannot find much information on this company. Just one reference that it might be the same company as Western Hardware & Specialty company. Founded in the 1930's? Anybody know anything about this company or the age of this Vise?
It works well despite the poor repaint on it.

Hi Deb. This vise is not listed in the vise database at a glance. It looks nearly identical to a Dunlap 5244, except the dynamic on your’s has a relieved cheek.

I did alittle digging on the brand and found this small article from; ‘Hardware Age,’ Vol. 142, No. 7, Oct. 6, 1938, Pg. 60, info courtesy of reference; Vintage Machinery website.

Overall, there is little information about the branded company.

 

[TheRealZeus]

Also another member of GJ posted one in with a Parker, few years back online. Here is the link, but they do not expand on the history of her.

Thread 'Found some goodies in the shed'
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/found-some-goodies-in-the-shed.467947/

 

[TheRealZeus]

A little before and after of my Reed 206 since Friday. Man… what a transformation. So the stand ended up weighing over 500 lbs…. My poor wife trying to help me dolly it into the garage.

I don’t need a 6 inch vise… but I wanted one. I do all work in my vehicles so it will come in handy for suspension work!

I was going to clean it and put BLO on it but this color really suits it well (verde green).

Nice work. Sure those Wilton verde hounds will let it slide. You should buy the wife some dinner. butter her up for when you wanna move it around the shop again.

 

[akasrick]

@TheRealZeus
Any problems getting the nut out?
How does it match up with a catalog cut?



akasrick

 

[TheRealZeus]

I had a senior chief in the Navy with an immaculate woodshop on base, that was his duty station. The dude knew nothing about woodworking, it was an easy senior slackoff job/orders, which is a comfort of khaki wearing dudes close to retirement. I use the woodshop and he got nervous… I said you won’t even know I was here. He liked that. Clean up your mess, and be invisible as possible. Based on the state of many peoples garages/shops around me, felt the need to say that. Surprised some of these dudes shops have not burned down.

Advertisements to include the no. 766 models.

 

[TheRealZeus]

@TheRealZeus
Any problems getting the nut out?
How does it match up with a catalog cut?



akasrick

No real problems with removing the nut, was just being patient. It matches mostly with the last faded catalog I just previously posted.. it is the steel jaws. idk about it being a sweetheart version, per-se.

 

[jjenri]

Nice work. Sure those Wilton verde hounds will let it slide. You should buy the wife some dinner. butter her up for when you wanna move it around the shop again.

Thanks Zeus! She def deserves more than that!

I just keep staring at this thing bc you don’t see a 6 inch every day. Just awed by it for sure!

 

[Debcrow]

Hi Deb. This vise is not listed in the vise database at a glance. It looks nearly identical to a Dunlap 5244, except the dynamic on your’s has a relieved cheek.

I did alittle digging on the brand and found this small article from; ‘Hardware Age,’ Vol. 142, No. 7, Oct. 6, 1938, Pg. 60, info courtesy of reference; Vintage Machinery website.

Overall, there is little information about the branded company.

Thank you very much for the time to find this and inform me. The only reference I found was that they were the company that preceded the company with the name change that included 'Specialty'. The article seems to confirm this.

The reference I found was written in more recent times. It said that the 'Excelall' Brand name was used after the forming of the new company and a different brand name was used before. Since Excelall is on my vise with the old company name on it seems to contradict the reference I found. But who knows, perhaps they just did not change the molding process to reflect the company name change.

 

[TheRealZeus]

At this point the soul is void of the body, and new life must be added. There are a couple spots to clean up here and there,

Accounting for what you do not see helps stay off having to repeat a process that’s time consuming.. The clamping lock needs finer cleaning, but to do so will get it’s own attention, in order to best preserve the nice threads.
Lil soul-enticing 3-1 for layup state. IF something came up, and I could continue immediately continue, she is at least cocooned.


More later!
Z.

 

[royce]

Just got a big push at work behind me and started on a stand for a Wilton C-3 yesterday. Hoping to get it done, and the vise redone before winter.

Base- Gear from sugar factory 365lbs
Column- Steam injector? from scrap yard 85lbs
Plate- 30lbs
Vise- 160lbs

Total- 640lbs

Will be 45" to the top of the jaws, and the Big Wilton hangs forward enough that I don't think the gear will be too much of a toe stubber.

CD

Nice mix of found objects, well done

 

[cretedog]

Nice mix of found objects, well done

Thank you, Sir.

 

[TheRealZeus]

What color, tint, tone, or shade should I paint her? This is Johnny, btw. he wants a smart phone for himself, but he doesn’t have hands.

 

[TheRealZeus]

Working her lil horn and anvil.
I have three different sized flat bastards I use for this. She has some serious gouges out of her from heavy use. My key methodology here is; go til you achieve a workable/usable planed surface. Some of the deeper gouges will remain apparent. The smaller files will help with the horn. I previously intended to leave the horn alone, but since then the determination was made that smoothing off the horn would make it pop more. Some effort will be put into the snapped off tip. Note: I used painters tape and a shim to protect the back of the static, as well as help maintain the line I am trying to follow. The trick I learned to clean these hammer “anvils” is stop, and start sessions. If you want a plain surface, worry about a plane surface… not time.

additional note: the green arrow is highlighting a very subtle step between the horn up to the anvil.

 

[TheRealZeus]

Before and after, but still in progress.

Third pic shows a deep chip out from abuse at another angle… there is a simplistic nature of men who see this flat, and think they can hammer out a knife.. It is not a Hay Bootie… this is Forged in Fires’ fault.. partially, I recon.