Insulating metal wrapped/wood frame building

[younganddumb]

We have a 24x32 wood framed building, wrapped with metal on the exterior…We used underlayment on the roof and Tyvek on walls, prior to metal installation…Is it okay to use regular, batt insulation on the walls? I plan on finishing the inside at some point, just not sure of the materials/and look just yet…I’m mainly worried about future moisture concerns…The building only has ridge cap and soffit ventilation…

 

[theoldwizard1]

…I’m mainly worried about future moisture concerns…

You should have skipped the Tyvek. The best moisture prevention is 2" of spray foam on all joints or where the metal attaches to the wood.

 

[billconner]

Yes, fiberglass batts will be fine. Depending on climate and plans for heating and/or cooling, an air vapor barrier may be necessary.

I assume you plan a ceiling, which makes loose fill cellulose a logical choice. The air vapor barrier and sealing around lights and wiring is even more important at ceiling.

 

[jack stand]

To what extent would you like to insulate to? (R value)
I have the same framing but I'm in Maine so good insulation made my decision easy.
I slid in 1 1/2" p-iso rigid foam in between the wall girts (inside the tyvek), foam sealed the edges. Then added another 1.5" vertically in the stud bays and sealed the edges (360* perimeter). Put any mechanicals in the wall then added r 13 fg. for an approximate R 34 wall. It was a big job especially when it wasn't cold, but I've been enjoying the benefits for the last 15 years when it IS cold.
I used "used" foam from a commercial flat re roof, around $7 for a 4x8x1.5 sheet.

 

[WisJim]

I think that the Tyvek was a good idea. If it was my building I would use spray foam to insulate and seal it better (that's what I did) but fiberglass should work fine. Hard to give good advice, though, without knowing where your building is.

 

[jack stand]

It's suprising how much air "leaks" in through, around your average ag panel!
Tyvek is an inexpensive "no brainer" especially if you do it yourself.
Air movement within the wall cavity absolutely ruins the R values of fiberglass insulation.

 

[billconner]

Jack's rigid foam between the girts is a great idea. Add R21 batts between studs and you'd be in good shape