To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Pocket door adjustment screw doesn’t hold

vdotmatrix

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 13, 2011
Messages
485
Location
Northern Virginia
I found a few post here that addressed this same issue.

I tightened the screw this time, all the way up as tight as I could. This was after I noticed that when the door was opened and closed,and it moved ever so slightly laterally, the screw would back out Fractions of a millimeter. Over time the #&&$”@ door would touch and drag over the threshold making it harder and harder to operate.

now that the screw thing is up all the way. I could put a glob of epoxy to hold it in place, or what i wanted I wanted to do is to thread two nuts from above and lock the screw in place…. How is the screw held in place and can it be removed without demolition?
IMG_1941.jpeg
IMG_1944.jpegIMG_1942.jpeg
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

jhelrey

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 15, 2010
Messages
7,254
Location
MN
The plastic piece is a retainer. If I recall, you pop up the end and lift and swing the door off of the screw. Nearly impossible if both sides are trimmed out.
 

Zeke

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 13, 2009
Messages
17,176
Location
Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
I've dealt with many pocket door repairs and adjustments. To remove the door you must take the trim off that is on the jamb face, swing the door out 30 degrees and it will come off the hangers.

I like your dab of epoxy idea if it solves the problem. And you may not have room for a double nut.
 
OP
V

vdotmatrix

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 13, 2011
Messages
485
Location
Northern Virginia
Would a dab of wicking loctite be better? Slightly less permanent if you find that the house settles and you need to make another adjustment.
I thought i was fixing it once and for all with the locktite but i think i didn’t tighten it all the way up like now…. The complaints from the wife and everyone get louder and louder as the door gets harder to operate. Dismantling the door trim is almost criminal…. stategically placed epoxy that can be freed with an oscillating tool… if i had a hot glue gun , it would work just as good but there is a lot of metal dirt/dust. Thank you
 
OP
V

vdotmatrix

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 13, 2011
Messages
485
Location
Northern Virginia
The plastic piece is a retainer. If I recall, you pop up the end and lift and swing the door off of the screw. Nearly impossible if both sides are trimmed out.
No plastic…everything metal…..i noticed that that piece is suppose to articulate somehow but I couldn’t figure it out or find pictures…but i knew you guys have seen everything.
 

gungatim

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 8, 2013
Messages
8,101
Location
west mich
Also can't hurt to plane a little off the bottom while they are out. Mine are heavy Oak French doors I turned into custom pocket doors with a leaded transom light above, making all the trim difficult to remove. I had a similar problem and finally fenagled them out and shaved 1/8" off the bottom to be safe.
 

RivennHewn

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 4, 2011
Messages
10,381
Location
PNW
Nothing cheap about this custom made home we built in New Hampshire with custom redwood and mahogany throughout the home built in late the 70’s. But you are probably right, the 80’s were cool.
Not dis’n your lovely house, but if you bought a pocket door frame kit, it’s a cheap POS. I know, I’ve installed hundreds of them.

On the nicer houses, we actually made our own frames/ rollers. The head casings were designed to be removable.

One thing I’ve noticed about pocket doors is the heavier, the better. A heavy door rolls so much better than a hollow core.

But in general, pocket doors have fallen out of favor with homebuyers.
 

jar944

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
5,951
Location
Northern VA
But in general, pocket doors have fallen out of favor with homebuyers.

They are back in vouge for high end homes, typically with full mortise hardware and a solid core 1.75" door. The pocket hardware is available from more suppliers than just Johnson.
 

RivennHewn

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 4, 2011
Messages
10,381
Location
PNW
They are back in vouge for high end homes, typically with full mortise hardware and a solid core 1.75" door. The pocket hardware is available from more suppliers than just Johnson.
Must be a regional thing.
 

75gmck25

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 21, 2014
Messages
1,328
Location
Alexandria, VA
I used Johnson's higher end hardware package for my pocket door and its holding up really well. My contractor also found a German company that makes very heavy duty, high end pocket door hardware, but it was Uber expensive. IIRC, it was 3-4 times more expensive than the Johnson HD hardware. The German company also makes high end hardware for pull-out pantry systems and other kitchen storage.
 
OP
V

vdotmatrix

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 13, 2011
Messages
485
Location
Northern Virginia
I think the issue is solved. The door is smooth as snot again.

The door will not give me problem again. If it does….it won’t.

I put a blob of epoxy in a strategic spot to lock the height in place because the screw cannot move.

Yeah!

Thank to everyone!

There will be no shaving. Here’s the blob!

IMG_1948.jpeg

IMG_1949.jpeg
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Adaylate

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2021
Messages
643
Location
Washington
I bought a five bedroom house with ten pocket doors, four in one jack and jill bathroom! Built in 1959.
 

jar944

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
5,951
Location
Northern VA
Must be a regional thing.

Maybe. They are common enough that the wet set method for the pocket side jamb has become a thing, and they seem to be the main reason anyone has lock mortisers any more.
If I'm to believe social media it's all anyone is installing in the upper Midwest.
 

stonesfan68

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2012
Messages
2,762
Location
Houston, TX
Johnson Hardware offers two versions of the roller and one of the options includes ball bearings. IMHO the ball bearings are worth the upgrade.
 

duneslider

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2013
Messages
2,267
Location
Riverton, Utah
Not dis’n your lovely house, but if you bought a pocket door frame kit, it’s a cheap POS.

But in general, pocket doors have fallen out of favor with homebuyers.
Cheap pocket door kits are why they have fallen out of favor. Good quality hardware keeps them working well for long long time but even then things wear out and need to be replaced. Seems like hardware from the 70's might have hit the end of its useful life?
 

Zeke

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 13, 2009
Messages
17,176
Location
Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
I think the issue is solved. The door is smooth as snot again.

The door will not give me problem again. If it does….it won’t.

I put a blob of epoxy in a strategic spot to lock the height in place because the screw cannot move.

Yeah!

Thank to everyone!

There will be no shaving. Here’s the blob!

IMG_1948.jpeg

IMG_1949.jpeg
Way to go. I thought that best.

When people talk about pocket doors they often forget the rough opening is nominal plus 3". A 2 foot PD takes a 51" opening.
That's a lot of patching. I find many PD's in plaster houses. Anymore that's s 2000 dollar fix and can run more.

I won't work on them anymore.
 
OP
V

vdotmatrix

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 13, 2011
Messages
485
Location
Northern Virginia
Cheap pocket door kits are why they have fallen out of favor. Good quality hardware keeps them working well for long long time but even then things wear out and need to be replaced. Seems like hardware from the 70's might have hit the end of its useful life?
My father in law built or installed the pocket doors going into the spiral staircase at 2nd floor and 3rd floor and only the one roller, with the most use **** the bed. But looking closer, i see more wear but this should be a fix that will last. Thanks everyone!
 

onewheat

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 19, 2012
Messages
1,286
Location
Knoxville, TN
We are building a loft and the plans call for like 7 or 8 pocket doors - I was modifying things and going back to swinging doors in many of the locations. We recently did the Parade of Homes and went thru one of our builder's homes. The pocket doors in this home were AMAZINGLY smooth and quiet and the doors were large, solid THICK doors. I've never experienced pocket doors that nice and have talked to my builder and architect and have gone back to all the pocket doors in the original design. I have multiple pocket doors in my current house, had them in my last house and the previous house too. They are garbage in comparison. If you need or would like a pocket door - go for the more expensive frame/system. It's like the difference between a generic patio slider and a high-line Pella sliding door. I know this isn't where this thread started, but...
 

tinmanwpk

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2015
Messages
443
Location
Jacksonville
I hate my cheap pocket door installed in the master bathroom in my 6 year old home. My door is just the opposite - it moves too easily and wants to creep open when we slide it shut. I'm ready to take it out and put in a sliding barn door.
 
OP
V

vdotmatrix

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 13, 2011
Messages
485
Location
Northern Virginia
I think the issue is solved. The door is smooth as snot again.

The door will not give me problem again. If it does….it won’t.

I put a blob of epoxy in a strategic spot to lock the height in place because the screw cannot move.

Yeah!

Thank to everyone!

There will be no shaving. Here’s the blob!

IMG_1948.jpeg

IMG_1949.jpeg
NEVER SAY NEVER.
WELL here we are 1/28/2025. I do not know how this thing let loose again. If there was a roller i could attach under the side of the door that is now dragging on the marble threshold, it would solve the problem. Headache revisited.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0172.jpeg
    IMG_0172.jpeg
    91 KB · Views: 26
  • IMG_0173.jpeg
    IMG_0173.jpeg
    1 MB · Views: 24

RoninB4

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 22, 2020
Messages
3,610
Location
Under My House
If there was a roller i could attach under the side of the door that is now dragging on the marble threshold, it would solve the problem.
-I think it certainly would but don't know if there's anything commercially available like that, I've made a few solutions like that for myself. Attaching a "leg" with a roller to the outside surface of the door is easiest but that would also depend upon your sense of aesthetics, it would look like a solution appropriate for a workshop or garage. There's also an invisible wheel/roller design mounted inside a pocket cut into the door itself but that would be somewhat difficult unless you removed the door. Having the door out would increase your options but endanger the trim from what I gather. From reading your full posting I'm guessing that any solutions not already tried or previously suggested by more knowledgeable members will be either temporary or a bit expensive. Consider door removal as a step in the direction of a more permanent solution.
 
OP
V

vdotmatrix

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 13, 2011
Messages
485
Location
Northern Virginia
There are a number of invisible wheel-rollers that could be installed but would indeed require removing the door. This pocket door is essential for keeping heat contained in the lower level and spiral staircase that spans three levels. There is no removing this from design of the home. I was able to turn that 5/16” nut and restore the functionality of the door. I am going clean the threads with brake cleaner and add some loctite today.
 

nmk_61802

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 6, 2008
Messages
965
Location
Central IL
Sounds like you have a plan…. It also sounds like your hardware may be partially stripped. Can you not buy replacements?
 
OP
V

vdotmatrix

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 13, 2011
Messages
485
Location
Northern Virginia
Sounds like you have a plan…. It also sounds like your hardware may be partially stripped. Can you not buy replacements?
I just don’t understand how ado that just goes back-and-forth can have that thing get stripped. It’s insane. It’s a solid door, but it still is suspended on a rail with rollers.. but if it comes to it, I’ll just have to remove the door and change the hardware dammit
 

BurtEggley

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 8, 2024
Messages
887
I went thru maybe 7 or 8 brands of pocket door rollers before I found a brand that worked like the original - meaning it took a dump every 20 years instead of 2. I used screws instead of nails where I could to put the trim back. Not as easy to hide but sure a heck of a lot easier next time it has to come off. That is why a lot of people hate pocket doors. I found that Johnson Hardware USA made versions was the best brand to work with. The big box and hardware stores here only had the cheaper foreign copies that did not hold up. I had to buy parts online.
 
OP
V

vdotmatrix

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 13, 2011
Messages
485
Location
Northern Virginia
Looks like the good stuff. Speedy, but you gotta pay to play.

Nice, the 481 is probably what i need. Spring time project. I see where my door failed. The main vertical adjustment screw has a lot of play. I could glue it in place (lame)…..i put some locktite in there yesterday but i don't think that will be effective. This hardware is about $60. That is not bad….
 
Last edited:

Copymutt

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 3, 2016
Messages
3,404
Location
Colorado
I‘m very fond of the multiple pocket doors Ive installed on my 2 homes. Hard to beat the cost for the sq. ft of usable space you gain. This thread reminded me of my grandfathers farm house in upstate NY. Absolutely huge pocket doors opened the living room into an oversize front room. They must have weighed over 100# & the opening was probably 10’. As far as maintaining adjustment, threadlocker seems to work for me.
 

DGersic

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 12, 2017
Messages
6,371
Location
DeKalb, IL
NEVER SAY NEVER.
WELL here we are 1/28/2025. I do not know how this thing let loose again. If there was a roller i could attach under the side of the door that is now dragging on the marble threshold, it would solve the problem. Headache revisited.

I think that whats happening is due to the end stop of the door, especially if you have family members that bang the door open or closed against whatever stops it. The shock is transmitted into that fastener, which eventually starts it moving.

If it were mine, I’d research Loctite options for dealing with thread locking in a high vibration environment.

If it has to come apart again, I’d also consider mortising in some rollers on the bottom.

And does anyone make something akin to a “soft close” mechanism for pocket doors? Something to keep it from banging hard against the stops.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom