Separate 0-10v dimmer suggestion

[shaggyant]

I have twelve LED UFO high bay lights I want to dim using the 0-10V input. I want to control the whole 14 amps of lights with one toggle switch and dimmer but the common in box 0-10v unit tops out at 8-10 amps. Is there a way to control the dimming separately with a dial or something and put the 120v load on a standard toggle switch?

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I have twelve LED UFO high bay lights I want to dim using the 0-10V input. I want to control the whole 14 amps of lights with one toggle switch and dimmer but the common in box 0-10v unit tops out at 8-10 amps. Is there a way to control the dimming separately with a dial or something and put the 120v load on a standard toggle switch?

the 10v dimmer circuit doesnt have the lighting load passing thru it... the dimmer circuit is separate from the 120v load circuit. but why do you want a separate 120v toggle? the dimmer should be able to shut off the lights.

 

[Denwood]

You can use the Leviton switche(s) with 0-10v dimmers.

I use these with Zigbee for (control via automation), but they have non Zigbee 0-10v dimmers as well. Check specs as it may be limited to 8 amps as well…

ZS057-D0Z Leviton Lumina RF Decora, 0-10V Wall Dimmer, 2.4GHz

The Lumina RF Decora 0-10V Wall Dimmer can be used to control a 0 to 10V controlled load or be paired with Lumina RF devices for enhanced smart lighting - Buy online at Aartech Canada with free shipping available!

www.aartech.ca

This “dumb” version is 10 amp: https://www.leviton.com/en/products/ds710-10z

At 14 amps continuous, pretty sure you would need a 20 amp circuit anyway to put those on one switch. The 80% rule would apply here. You may need something like this: https://illumra.com/products/receivers/wireless-0-10v-dimming-20a-area-controller/

 

[cybrdyke]

Lutron RMJS-8T (you'll need 2) and Pico wireless switches.
Simple.
CD

 

[shaggyant]

the 10v dimmer circuit doesnt have the lighting load passing thru it... the dimmer circuit is separate from the 120v load circuit. but why do you want a separate 120v toggle? the dimmer should be able to shut off the lights.

I read mixed answers talking about how a 0-10V dimmer may or may not turn the lights completely off through dimming alone. It's interesting that with the wires disconnected the lights come on full brightness. I am guessing that in this instance "zero volts" constitutes a short circuit rather than an open circuit?

The crux of my issue is that all 14 amps of lights are on one 20 amp circuit. The all in one rocker switch / 0-10V dimmers that fit inside the gang box are topping out at 10 amps like the one Denwood linked above. Hence why I wanted to split the dimmer so I could use a standard 20 amp toggle switch and control the dimming separately.

Lutron RMJS-8T (you'll need 2) and Pico wireless switches.
Simple.
CD

This setup also runs into an amp limit requiring two power packs. Can two Lutron power packs be controlled with one Pico wireless switch? If so that might work. I presume that the wireless switches are battery powered though. Is there a hardwired version that won't require battery replacements?

 

[cybrdyke]

This setup also runs into an amp limit requiring two power packs. Can two Lutron power packs be controlled with one Pico wireless switch? If so that might work. I presume that the wireless switches are battery powered though. Is there a hardwired version that won't require battery replacements?

These are 8A power packs. They'll go into the ceiling to your lighting junction box. You can marry 1 to 10 Picos to both power packs, or to individual power packs. No more 3-way or 4-way switches. Stick them onto the wall in a traditional wall plate, or keep them in your pocket. The battery is a 10-year plus battery, so I wouldn't worry about replacing it. A hard wire version would defeat the entire purpose. There's also sensors that you can put in the corner or the ceiling without wires.
CD

 

[Denwood]

Those Lutron packs are pricy ~$400 for two? Then you’d need the pico switche(s) and a hub?. An alternative (and my approach to this) would be to use three Zooz Zen54 0-10V modules which can both switch and dim up to 4 amps each. They would go in your junction boxes (quite small) . They use Zwave (wireless control) so would require an automation hub (like Hubitat) which is my goto for automation these days. This gives you a lot of flexibility in how you manage lights on motion, ambient light level dimming etc.

 

[cybrdyke]

No hub necessary with Lutron. You can get the powerpacks for less than that and Picos are only about $25 each.
CD

 

[Denwood]

Then always go with the KISS rule...simpler (Lutron on this case) is better.

I've been quite enthused that these two products that have recently become available in North America for 0-10v control. In my case, they are being used with EC fans, but the manufacturers both target LED lighting with these products:

Leviton ZS057-D0Z (Zigbee wireless control) - https://www.leviton.com/en/products/zs057-d0z Leviton's Lumina RF presents itself as a standard Zigbee dimmer profile so you can use this device with other automation systems. This one allows both manual and automation control of 0-10V devices. Switching and dimming can be done directly from the switch if programmed this way and/or via automation. Installation Manual for this device is here: https://www.leviton.com/en/docs/ZS0...n_Instructions_English_DI-000-ZS057-02C-W.pdf



Zooz Zen 72 dimmers (on left, heater control) and Leviton ZS057-DOZ (center, EC fan 0-10V speed control) for HRV ventilation and inline heater control.



Zooz Zen54 (zWave wirelss control) -

ZEN54 0-10 V Dimmer – ZOOZ

www.getzooz.com

This module switches power (via automation or via a standard wall switch) as well as offering 0-10V control for LED lights and EC fans. Manual for this device is here: https://www.getzooz.com/downloads/z...lus-long-range-0-10-v-dimmer-zen54-manual.pdf


Zooz Zen54 controlling AC Infinity ECM fan.

 

[dave*99]

It's interesting that with the wires disconnected the lights come on full brightness. I am guessing that in this instance "zero volts" constitutes a short circuit rather than an open circuit?

It is a current sinking dimming circuit.

The ballast in the light fixture has 10V on its dimming terminals when nothing is connected to them. That voltage comes from the circuit on the ballast board itself. Your dimmer sinks (draws) current from the 0 and 10V terminals on the ballast. This is a very small DC control current, not the lamp current. As it sinks more current, the voltage drops and the lamp dims.

So when is nothing connected to the ballast you get full brightness and there is 10V across the terminals on the ballast.
If you short the 0 and 10V terminals on the ballast to each other the light goes to fully dim and there is 0V across the terminals.

 

[dave*99]

I read mixed answers talking about how a 0-10V dimmer may or may not turn the lights completely off through dimming alone.

There is some interesting discussion of that topic here on this page. Read the part about 0-10V and 1-10V dimming.

How to setup Dimmable LED High Bay or LED Parking Lot Lights with 0-10volt - 0-10 volt dimming explained

www.ledlightexpert.com