Longer 3/8? breaker bar

[2ndGearRubber]

Earlier today I was extracting a ball joint pinch bolt someone snapped the head off. Grind it clean, weld a nut to it, heat the knuckle, wiggle. Thus the ideal tool for this is a 3/8 breaker bar. However, my 3/8 breaker bar is an 8" Proto unit, not a ton of torque. Blessing and a curse.

So I'm looking for a longer, but not 18", 3/8 breaker bar.

Snap-on Store

shop.snapon.com

Snap on wants $95 for ~12".

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EY6B974/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Tone offers ~16" bar, $20.

Proto 3/8" Drive, 12" Breaker Bar, Full Polish J5266 | Zoro

Order Proto 3/8" Drive, 12" Breaker Bar, Full Polish, J5266 at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.

www.zoro.com

Proto is $38, 12".


I think the heft and bulkiness of 1/2 drive tools is too much for my application of crusty bolt wiggling. Other options I should think of in the 12-15" 3/8 break bar world?



EDIT: Needs metal handle, no comfy grips or plastic.

 

[johninct]

Since I got my Snap-On 18" 3/8" drive breaker bar I have not used my 8" or 12" one.

 

[shibertus]

Icon has a 13" 3/8" breaker bar

3/8 in. Drive 13 in. Breaker Bar with TPR Grip

Amazing deals on this 3/8In Dr 13In Breaker Bar at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[rooster59]

Harbor fright has a 20% off Icon coupon through 11/5/23

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Icon has a 13" 3/8" breaker bar

3/8 in. Drive 13 in. Breaker Bar with TPR Grip

Amazing deals on this 3/8In Dr 13In Breaker Bar at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Forgot a criteria, Metal handle only. I'll edit the OP. Shame because that's about the perfect length.

3/8 in. Drive 12 in. Professional Breaker Bar

Amazing deals on this 3/8In Dr 12In Breaker Bar at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Icon 12" for $25, all metal seems pretty good.

 

[Dave455]

KoKen offer a selection of lengths and handle styles, up to 380mm (15 inch). Made in Japan.

In the U.K. the 15 inch is the equivalent of $38. The 300mm / 12 inch is a frac cheaper.

I have the 15 inch - it’s about a third the cost of the Snappy here, but it’s much more than a third of the quality!

If you’re going to have a breaker bar / flex handle it might as well be a decent length. I use the 15 inch a lot - belt tensioners, brake caliper bolts etc etc.

 

[sparky 1971]

Earlier today I was extracting a ball joint pinch bolt someone snapped the head off. Grind it clean, weld a nut to it, heat the knuckle, wiggle. Thus the ideal tool for this is a 3/8 breaker bar. However, my 3/8 breaker bar is an 8" Proto unit, not a ton of torque. Blessing and a curse.

So I'm looking for a longer, but not 18", 3/8 breaker bar.

Snap-on Store

shop.snapon.com

Snap on wants $95 for ~12".

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EY6B974/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Tone offers ~16" bar, $20.

Proto 3/8" Drive, 12" Breaker Bar, Full Polish J5266 | Zoro

Order Proto 3/8" Drive, 12" Breaker Bar, Full Polish, J5266 at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.

www.zoro.com

Proto is $38, 12".


I think the heft and bulkiness of 1/2 drive tools is too much for my application of crusty bolt wiggling. Other options I should think of in the 12-15" 3/8 break bar world?

SK has been getting a lot of hate on here lately, but I have a 15" from the Ideal days that has worked well, but admittedly, I don't use it very often. I can't tell you if this is US made or not. No more than breaker bars get used these days, this is probably a left over.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FUZAVLM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[rust in the eye]

Proto will take a cheater pipe

 

[1320]

I have one of these Husky 18" bars and have liked it so far.

Husky 3/8 in. Drive x 18 in. Breaker Bar H38BB18 - The Home Depot

The Husky 3/8 in. Drive 18 in. Breaker Bar features alloy steel construction for strength. The finish provides resistance to corrosion. This breaker bar has a 180° swivel head and an ergonomically designed

www.homedepot.com

I did put a thin washer on the flex bolt in between the head and fork to remove a bit of slop.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

KoKen offer a selection of lengths and handle styles, up to 380mm (15 inch). Made in Japan.

In the U.K. the 15 inch is the equivalent of $38. The 300mm / 12 inch is a frac cheaper.

I have the 15 inch - it’s about a third the cost of the Snappy here, but it’s much more than a third of the quality!

If you’re going to have a breaker bar / flex handle it might as well be a decent length. I use the 15 inch a lot - belt tensioners, brake caliper bolts etc etc.

Should have remembered Koken. Knurling heaven to match my extensions.

SK has been getting a lot of hate on here lately, but I have a 15" from the Ideal days that has worked well, but admittedly, I don't use it very often. I can't tell you if this is US made or not. No more than breaker bars get used these days, this is probably a left over.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FUZAVLM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I have their long 30" 1/2 drive, it's a bit bent from a pipe but works good.

Proto will take a cheater pipe

Inconvenient. although I'm sure it will.

 

[setfocus]

Subbie ball joint? Been there. Now the torch comes out every time before any force is used

I've got a blue point, just looked it up, 10". Still kinda short. I had a snapon but lost it, when I bought the BP... 5ish years ago, it was $15 or less off the truck, was actually one of the cheapest I found at the time. Now they want $29. Driver told me that I wanted the snapon and blaa blaa, no thanks for 3x-4x the price and same easy warranty. I only bought it to use on the other end of an impact, so I don't beat up on a ratchet. Don't actually use it to break anything free, and haven't needed the warranty

 

[f121]

Any reason not to buy a long 3/8 ratchet? I have the snap on extra long flex head, probably 18” or so and have never used a 3/8 breaker bar since I bought it

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Subbie ball joint? Been there. Now the torch comes out every time before any force is used

I've got a blue point, just looked it up, 10". Still kinda short. I had a snapon but lost it, when I bought the BP... 5ish years ago, it was $15 or less off the truck, was actually one of the cheapest I found at the time. Now they want $29. Driver told me that I wanted the snapon and blaa blaa, no thanks for 3x-4x the price and same easy warranty. I only bought it to use on the other end of an impact, so I don't beat up on a ratchet. Don't actually use it to break anything free, and haven't needed the warranty

Yes, but it arrived pre-broken for me. Thanks Last Guy!

Any reason not to buy a long 3/8 ratchet? I have the snap on extra long flex head, probably 18” or so and have never used a 3/8 breaker bar since I bought it

I have two 18" snap on ratchets, lots of ratchets. I need to wiggle, and ratchets mean having to reverse the tool. Breaker bar is the choice for this.

 

[Rinspeed]

I've seriously always thought 3/8 and 1/4 breaker bars are both some of the most worthless tools ever made.

 

[Chrome Vanadium Cody]

Those Koken breaker bars have my favorite knurled handles I’ve tried. Have it on a ratchet and love it. If I needed one of these that’s what I’d go for.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I've seriously always thought 3/8 and 1/4 breaker bars are both some of the most worthless tools ever made.

Do a steering rack on a Trailblazer, the old ****** body on frame version. The lower profile of a 3/8 breaker bar plus a full broach deep socket lets you remove the rack bolts without removing the axle. Ratchet will not fit. This way you can hold the nut while you hit the other side with an impact.

I used to feel the same way. Wiggling, tap/extractor use, low profile holding - I don't use them often but I do use them.

 

[joel63]

Earlier today I was extracting a ball joint pinch bolt someone snapped the head off. Grind it clean, weld a nut to it, heat the knuckle, wiggle. Thus the ideal tool for this is a 3/8 breaker bar. However, my 3/8 breaker bar is an 8" Proto unit, not a ton of torque. Blessing and a curse.

So I'm looking for a longer, but not 18", 3/8 breaker bar.

Snap-on Store

shop.snapon.com

Snap on wants $95 for ~12".

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EY6B974/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Tone offers ~16" bar, $20.

Proto 3/8" Drive, 12" Breaker Bar, Full Polish J5266 | Zoro

Order Proto 3/8" Drive, 12" Breaker Bar, Full Polish, J5266 at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.

www.zoro.com

Proto is $38, 12".


I think the heft and bulkiness of 1/2 drive tools is too much for my application of crusty bolt wiggling. Other options I should think of in the 12-15" 3/8 break bar world?



EDIT: Needs metal handle, no comfy grips or plastic.

Would this work?

Snap-on Store

shop.snapon.com

or

Snap-on Store

shop.snapon.com

 

[sparky 1971]

I have their long 30" 1/2 drive, it's a bit bent from a pipe but works good.

I have that one as well. I haven't used a pipe on it, but have put everything my 300 pound powerlifting **** had into it. It's not bent...yet

 

[johninct]

Any reason not to buy a long 3/8 ratchet? I have the snap on extra long flex head, probably 18” or so and have never used a 3/8 breaker bar since I bought it

Smaller head can make a difference in some places.

 

[johninct]

I've seriously always thought 3/8 and 1/4 breaker bars are both some of the most worthless tools ever made.

They are worthless until you need it because nothing else fits.

 

[Ricky Joe]

Weld a piece of bar stock on the end of your breaker. That way you get the exact length and profile you want. Take the money you save and get the wife flowers.

 

[bcradio]

I'd probably just use a wrench

 

[assassin10000]

3/8" DRIVE BREAKER BAR B15FH | Matco Tools

www.matcotools.com

I have this one, 15" matco 3/8 breaker.

 

[charbar]

....

I think I would just go for the $25 Icon. I have yet to be disappointed by anything Icon I have. Easy warranty too if you are close to a HF....you know all that already though. Unless you want to spend double for the one I messaged you about....I don't think it's worth it though honestly.

 

[honcho]

Earlier today I was extracting a ball joint pinch bolt someone snapped the head off. Grind it clean, weld a nut to it, heat the knuckle, wiggle. Thus the ideal tool for this is a 3/8 breaker bar. However, my 3/8 breaker bar is an 8" Proto unit, not a ton of torque. Blessing and a curse.

So I'm looking for a longer, but not 18", 3/8 breaker bar.

Snap-on Store

shop.snapon.com

Snap on wants $95 for ~12".

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EY6B974/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Tone offers ~16" bar, $20.

Proto 3/8" Drive, 12" Breaker Bar, Full Polish J5266 | Zoro

Order Proto 3/8" Drive, 12" Breaker Bar, Full Polish, J5266 at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.

www.zoro.com

Proto is $38, 12".


I think the heft and bulkiness of 1/2 drive tools is too much for my application of crusty bolt wiggling. Other options I should think of in the 12-15" 3/8 break bar world?



EDIT: Needs metal handle, no comfy grips or plastic.

Harbor Freight, in addition to the Icon 13" version for $30, has a Pittsburgh Pro 17" 3/8 breaker bar for $13, Looking at the their website, they also have a Quinn extendable 3/8" breaker bar that goes to 13 7/8" for $15. However, I have broken several of the Pittsburgh Pro version over the years but I happen to like it so I keep one around.

 

[Pinemarten]

Slide a piece of pipe on your Photo breaker bar. Duct tape it to the ideal length. Take the money you saved and buy some beer and steaks. Grill up a steak dinner for your sweetie. Toast your mechanical skills with a beer over dinner. After dinner............

 

[PoorOwner]

I have the SK 41652 new old stock.. it's a 1/2 16"
Seems you can still buy them

Didn't think about the 1/2" being an issue.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Slide a piece of pipe on your Photo breaker bar. Duct tape it to the ideal length. Take the money you saved and buy some beer and steaks. Grill up a steak dinner for your sweetie. Toast your mechanical skills with a beer over dinner. After dinner............

I make a living with these tools. I dont like to improvise unless I absolutely must. The cost of whichever bar, or bars, I buy is insignificant over the next 30 years.

 

[Boogerman]

Weld a piece of bar stock on the end of your breaker. That way you get the exact length and profile you want. Take the money you save and get the wife flowers.

Slide a piece of pipe on your Photo breaker bar. Duct tape it to the ideal length. Take the money you saved and buy some beer and steaks. Grill up a steak dinner for your sweetie. Toast your mechanical skills with a beer over dinner. After dinner............

I make a living with these tools. I dont like to improvise unless I absolutely must. The cost of whichever bar, or bars, I buy is insignificant over the next 30 years.

A poverty mentality absolutely becomes self perpetuating. This is a classic case of not recognizing that saved time and working correctly instead of a substandard accommodation makes for long term prosperity and success.

2ndGearRubber, you're exactly on the right track. It took me years to get there after growing up in a poverty environment. It was extremely liberating once I was able to recognize what I was doing and overcome it. Recognizing the value of my time and learning the importance of doing things right was one of the most empowering things that ever happened to me.

 

[milky2k]

How about this O’rielly / Power Torque 3/8 drive 12 inch breaker bar for $19? The end of the breaker bar will accept a 3/8 square drive so you can use this as an extension as well.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/power-torque-tools/tools---equipment/hand-tools/breaker-bar/52fa9f96fd1d/power-torque-3-8-inch-drive-12-inch-extension-bar-and-breaker-bar/ptt0/gm6111?q=breaker+bar&pos=1

 

[f121]

Smaller head can make a difference in some places.

Agree. About three times since I bought a long flex ratchet. Maybe I’ve just been lucky

 

[richfinn]

I have the Snap-On 12" (not a double entendre ), it's just one of those things Snap-On do really well, I waited and got a nice used one from ebay for £30.

The knuckle end is very compact and great with Ko-ken Z/Extra sockets when you need some extra wiggle room.

 

[Ricky Joe]

I make a living with these tools. I dont like to improvise unless I absolutely must. The cost of whichever bar, or bars, I buy is insignificant over the next 30 years.

I made a good living with mine, also. Starting out, I made $90 per week, and they were not 40 hour weeks. I made pullers, bent wrenches, cut wrenches, made sockets, etc. I bought at flea markets and yard sales and pawn shops and thrift stores. As my skills and income improved, I began to buy from the Snap-on and Mac trucks. Twice my tools were stolen, once when the shop was broken into and once on a road call. I figured I could do more with less than just about anybody. I’ve improvised fairly consistently throughout my career. My improvisations might not be pretty, but they are functional and reliable. If I took a piece of steel, drilled holes, tapped it, and made a puller, which I have done, once writing “Snap-on” on one with welding rod, I guarantee it worked as well as storebought. And if it saved me money, that was good, too. I might have a poverty mindset. I can’t waste anything, and have a hard time throwing away anything good, though I can give it away without a second thought. And I would rather have something I made than something a Chinaman made, though I do have a very few Chinese tools. Not many, and I’d rather make something than buy Asian. Point being, I don’t consider homemade tools to necessarily be cheap.

Also, I don’t polish my tools and gently place them in the box. Excess grease gets wiped off and the wrench thrown in the drawer. They are tools. I do wash up before I use the manual.

 

[bcradio]

I made a good living with mine, also. Starting out, I made $90 per week, and they were not 40 hour weeks. I made pullers, bent wrenches, cut wrenches, made sockets, etc. I bought at flea markets and yard sales and pawn shops and thrift stores. As my skills and income improved, I began to buy from the Snap-on and Mac trucks. Twice my tools were stolen, once when the shop was broken into and once on a road call. I figured I could do more with less than just about anybody. I’ve improvised fairly consistently throughout my career. My improvisations might not be pretty, but they are functional and reliable. If I took a piece of steel, drilled holes, tapped it, and made a puller, which I have done, once writing “Snap-on” on one with welding rod, I guarantee it worked as well as storebought. And if it saved me money, that was good, too. I might have a poverty mindset. I can’t waste anything, and have a hard time throwing away anything good, though I can give it away without a second thought. And I would rather have something I made than something a Chinaman made, though I do have a very few Chinese tools. Not many, and I’d rather make something than buy Asian. Point being, I don’t consider homemade tools to necessarily be cheap.

Also, I don’t polish my tools and gently place them in the box. Excess grease gets wiped off and the wrench thrown in the drawer. They are tools. I do wash up before I use the manual.

How did your tools get stolen on a road call?

 

[Ricky Joe]

How did your tools get stolen on a road call?

Service truck was broken into at the motel.

 

[bcradio]

Service truck was broken into at the motel.

Ouch, sorry to hear

 

[Ricky Joe]

Service truck was broken into at the motel.

There were two of us. Other guy got his tools stolen, also. I wound up driving the truck down Interstate 10. GMC cracker box with 318 Detroit. Had a hole in the piston and was pumping oil. Cars held back a half mile due to what that oil was doing to their windshields. Probably didn’t conform to California emissions standards!

 

[Ricky Joe]

Ouch, sorry to hear

Hey, we all gotta eat. Some can make it and some gotta take it.

 

[JRC3]

Proto will take a cheater pipe

I have abused the holy **** out of mine, I only use it for those tough and tight jobs.

 

[Pinemarten]

I make a living with these tools. I dont like to improvise unless I absolutely must. The cost of whichever bar, or bars, I buy is insignificant over the next 30 years.

Well, lets hope this question/discussion is for "the next time". No paying customer wants to wait a couple days for the perfect tool to be obtained to finish the job. I figured you were a home gamer, since most pros should have more than one breaker bar to choose from.

By the way, I'm not sure using a cheater pipe is an improvise. No tool company makes a five foot 1" drive breaker bar to my knowledge. I'm going to call using a cheater pipe a "high torque application".