Woolwax Spray Gun - Thinner Cavity Wands?

[Spta97]

Pretty sure thats the Dominion Sure Seal gun, same as I have. It’s a good one. If you want to do a pickup bedside from the tail light u should order or make a long wand

Mine is an SUV so the 40” wand should do it.

Before I get it I will be flushing out the doors by spraying a large volume of water at the window until the drain holes run clear.

One year (many years ago) I heard a sloshing when I was driving and it turned out the passenger door drains were plugged so it’s something I keep an eye on. Seemed like several gallons of water came out when I cleaned the obstructions.

Figure give that a week to fully dry and hopefully have the gun by next weekend.

I also plan to do my X3M though that has rustproofing from factory in the doors and panels. Figure it can’t hurt and want to do the undercarriage as well.

 

[cloves]

I have been trying to figure out the same thing as the opt. Woolwax is substantially thicker then fluid film. The spray gun south main uses is no longer available on Amazon and (forgot his name now) mentions it in this video he recently put up. Woolwax has supreme gun but the hoses on it are thick and not really long (36" ircc). It can be pressurized much higher then the plastic pro which would help pushing the thicker product through the hose. Reading on the woolwax facebook page they mention that it can be thinned down using vegetable oil. The pro gun they sell has a bit thinner and more flexible hose which might work in cavities and spots like the doors etc. Haven't really found any other good options, and I don't want to have to get more then one coating gun. Woolwax doesn't really ever answer questions related to cavities etc from what I have seen. Their lame we don't really do pro video reviews aka we don't care lol.

PMT uses the same gun as the woolwax pro but it has a metal canister which supposedly gets up to 140. All the flexible extensions from woolwax also fit it.

Only other option I have found is the Rustproofing Gun UCPRO Plus or non plus but its pricey at $300/350 and has no pressure control from what I am seeing. Adding a air gauge would make this thing even more heavier while under the car.

Video and time where south mentions amazon doesn't carry it:

 

[Spta97]

I have been trying to figure out the same thing as the opt. Woolwax is substantially thicker then fluid film. The spray gun south main uses is no longer available on Amazon and (forgot his name now) mentions it in this video he recently put up. Woolwax has supreme gun but the hoses on it are thick and not really long (36" ircc). It can be pressurized much higher then the plastic pro which would help pushing the thicker product through the hose. Reading on the woolwax facebook page they mention that it can be thinned down using vegetable oil. The pro gun they sell has a bit thinner and more flexible hose which might work in cavities and spots like the doors etc. Haven't really found any other good options, and I don't want to have to get more then one coating gun. Woolwax doesn't really ever answer questions related to cavities etc from what I have seen. Their lame we don't really do pro video reviews aka we don't care lol.

PMT uses the same gun as the woolwax pro but it has a metal canister which supposedly gets up to 140. All the flexible extensions from woolwax also fit it.

Only other option I have found is the Rustproofing Gun UCPRO Plus or non plus but its pricey at $300/350 and has no pressure control from what I am seeing. Adding a air gauge would make this thing even more heavier while under the car.

Video and time where south mentions amazon doesn't carry it:

I’ll take a look at that vid when I’m off work. I haven’t used the new gun but assuming it works I should be ok.

I’m not crazy about having 2 guns but still below the cost of having a shop do one of the vehicles.

Will post back as I plan to do this on my week off next week.

 

[toolenthusiast]

I also plan to do my X3M though that has rustproofing from factory in the doors and panels.

On a German car (i.e. thorough cavity wax from the factory) it would be a helluva lot easier and cheaper to just buy a can of cavity wax and lightly touch it up. Aerosol cavity wax also has cheap, easy access to all sorts of 360 wands.

Does lanolin even play nicely with cavity wax?

 

[Spta97]

On a German car (i.e. thorough cavity wax from the factory) it would be a helluva lot easier and cheaper to just buy a can of cavity wax and lightly touch it up. Aerosol cavity wax also has cheap, easy access to all sorts of 360 wands.

Does lanolin even play nicely with cavity wax?

Yea I wonder how far I need to go with the BMW? I have seen that most of the cavities contain the wax. The cavity mission is more for my 07 Armada. I wanted not to be dependent on the cans as I’ve got most of a 5 gallon bucket left.

I don’t think the Surface Shield will hurt the wax but good question. I may email them to ask. There were a few cavities where I wiped it off to put sound deadening material (hatch and driver rear quarter panel) so may want to hit those.

 

[toolenthusiast]

Yea I wonder how far I need to go with the BMW? I have seen that most of the cavities contain the wax. The cavity mission is more for my 07 Armada. I wanted not to be dependent on the cans as I’ve got most of a 5 gallon bucket left.

I don’t think the Surface Shield will hurt the wax but good question. I may email them to ask. There were a few cavities where I wiped it off to put sound deadening material (hatch and driver rear quarter panel) so may want to hit those.

If you go with cavity wax, stick with 3M; it’s the correct translucent yellow to match your factory stuff. (SEM is a nasty dark brown.)

 

[Spta97]

If you go with cavity wax, stick with 3M; it’s the correct translucent yellow to match your factory stuff. (SEM is a nasty dark brown.)

Thanks for the heads up. I plan to just use the surface shield but good to know about the cavity wax.

Part of me wonders if it is even necessary on the BMW but I suppose it can’t hurt.

 

[toolenthusiast]

Thanks for the heads up. I plan to just use the surface shield but good to know about the cavity wax.

Part of me wonders if it is even necessary on the BMW but I suppose it can’t hurt.

It’s probably not necessary unless 1) you live in an area that salts the roads a lot and you’re driving it all winter 2) you’re gonna keep the car foreeeever.

When I order a junkyard door for a 3 year old American or Japanese car, the first thing I do is check the seams for rust. When I order a 20yo Euro door I just make sure it isn’t covered in dents or precious repairs; there won’t be rust, almost as a rule.

Trivia: the cavity wax is the reason German cars smell like crayons in the summer

 

[jonshonda]

I did Surface Shield with the Woolwax gun on my GX460 right after I bought it. I still smell like a sheep farm.

Tagging this thread to follow.

Do you remember how much you used? I bought a gallon of WW Black and their pro gun, hoping to get everything underneath coated. Any tips or tricks on hard to reach places? Asking cuz I have a 17 GX460

 

[Hohn]

Do you remember how much you used? I bought a gallon of WW Black and their pro gun, hoping to get everything underneath coated. Any tips or tricks on hard to reach places? Asking cuz I have a 17 GX460

I used about half of the gallon I bought.
Since this is the first and only treatment I've done, I can't really offer any "expertise." I'd recommend just working methodically and go slowly.

I started with the inner cavity wand and worked driver-to-passenger side starting at the front and working my way towards the rear. If there was a hole I could get the wand into, it got sprayed a healthy dose of Surface Shield (evidenced by spray/fog emitting from adjacent holes).
Once all the inner cavities were done with the radial sprayer, I went to the other nozzle and coated everything I could underneath.

I did not do any inner cavities or remove any interior panels. My GX has a rust-free body after 12 years in Chicago, so it seems that salt water getting into the door bottoms and rotting them out (ala my old Dodge ram) isn't a thing on the GX.

For the GX specifically, I'd recommend removing the skid plate with the oil drain access panel and then take the bolts out of the one just forward of that and it will swing down on the hooks/fingers of the plate where it mounts to the front crossmember. This will let you get the underside of engine and trans as well as the top of the skid plates.

Because my GX lived its first 12 years in the Chicago suburbs, so the skidplates were rotted badly and I just replaced them. The rest of the underside wasn't too bad, but did have some surface scale that I wire brushed before applying the SS.

I would strongly recommend some kind of paper masking to protect the backside of the wheels and brake area. I failed to do this and got some surface shield on my brakes. I didn't cause any braking issue in terms of ability to stop, but it was enough to mess with the wheel speed sensors and cause the TRAC to fire randomly at highway speeds with a fairly disturbing bang (If you've used your GX offroad and heard the TRAC system working, you'll recognize the sound immediately). After a couple weeks it went away, but it's still unwise to be careless with the lanolin stuff on a vehicle like the GX that has sensors and wiring all over the place.

Packing paper or thin plastic on the back of the wheel should be sufficient.

 

[Kurt4440]

Do you remember how much you used? I bought a gallon of WW Black and their pro gun, hoping to get everything underneath coated. Any tips or tricks on hard to reach places? Asking cuz I have a 17 GX460

I used over 2 gallons on my buddies crew cab Toyota Tundra. I spent my time on it and removed: tail lights, door panels, fender liners( not completely), and all skid plates so I could spray as much as possible.

 

[Hohn]

I used over 2 gallons on my buddies crew cab Toyota Tundra. I spent my time on it and removed: tail lights, door panels, fender liners( not completely), and all skid plates so I could spray as much as possible.

Very impressive. If my vehicle was newer and hasn't already spent 12 years in Chicago, I'd likely have tried to be as thorough. But I figure with that history, either the protection wasn't very helpful (i.e. it hasn't rusted yet, it's not going to), or that it was too late. Thankfully, there was very little of the latter and lots of the former.

So far so good. I'm a fan of the Surface Shield product based on the Repair Geek's YT videos.

 

[Spta97]

It’s probably not necessary unless 1) you live in an area that salts the roads a lot and you’re driving it all winter 2) you’re gonna keep the car foreeeever.

When I order a junkyard door for a 3 year old American or Japanese car, the first thing I do is check the seams for rust. When I order a 20yo Euro door I just make sure it isn’t covered in dents or precious repairs; there won’t be rust, almost as a rule.

Trivia: the cavity wax is the reason German cars smell like crayons in the summer

Hey thanks for the reply and thinking of the cavity wax.

I got a response from Blaster and they said the SS could potentially soften the cavity wax and recommend I only do the undercarriage.

Good catch - thanks brother

 

[Spta97]

Do you remember how much you used? I bought a gallon of WW Black and their pro gun, hoping to get everything underneath coated. Any tips or tricks on hard to reach places? Asking cuz I have a 17 GX460

On my Armada I used about 1.5 gallons on just the undercarriage. I’m sure I over applied but it was my first time.

I posted a thread which has some tips here: https://www.clubarmada.com/threads/undercoating-with-surface-shield.91752/#post-603835

Also check Repair Geeks vid:

Regarding the black I decided against it. He has a vid on that as well. 1) You can add graphite powder to any undercoating to make it black (this is what the manufacturers do) 2) overspray will be black instead of clear 3) the clear pretty much turns black once it gets driven.

I also found the clear SS turned a lot of rust black instantly which was cool.

 

[Spta97]

Works fine for me, sprays fluid film undulated at coolish ambient temps without issue.

Pretty sure thats the Dominion Sure Seal gun, same as I have. Its a good one. If you want to do a pickup bedside from the tail light u should order or make a long wand

So I finally got to use the gun this weekend. The box didn't have any instructions in it (unless I misplaced them) and for the life of me I couldn't get a good "atomized" spray. The instructions said 70-80 PSI so I used that. There was also a bag of washers/gaskets - I'm assuming those were extras?

It was just spurting out of the 360 wand (think of a clogged spray paint can).

I did it regardless using probably more fluid that required.

Is there some sort of adjustment I should be doing? Best I could do was move the knob to allow me to press the trigger deeper.

Compared to my WW gun this was much harder to use and put out a lot less fluid. Once I did the undercarriage frame cavities (on my X3) I switched over to the WW gun and it was like night and day as far as ease of use and volume output.

I'll give TP a call tomorrow to see what they say but any thoughts would be appreciated!

 

[ItsNemo]

I do run 90-100psi through mine (whatever the regulator is usually set to), so maybe that helps? I also usually use the hand wand rather than the 360 sprayer, though both work.

 

[Spta97]

I do run 90-100psi through mine (whatever the regulator is usually set to), so maybe that helps? I also usually use the hand wand rather than the 360 sprayer, though both work.

Thanks. Yea I think at one point I went to 90 and it was slightly better. The whole point of this gun was for cavities so the other wand didn’t work for that.

I feel like maybe there is an adjustment I’m missing.

 

[scooby074]

Is it sort of dripping and building up on the nozzle? Play with air pressure, and maybe thin the fluid. Ive never used SS so I dont know exactly what to recommend, but the mist coming out will never be a perfect 360 of fine drops IMHO.

When I use Rust Check (thin oil based) it is closer to a mist, but when I use Krown (thick, paste-like) its closer to spits and spatters.

Like Nemo, I usually use the right angle metal nozzle and it sprays better than the 360 wand. But none of the nozzles are really precision.

 

[ItsNemo]

Thanks. Yea I think at one point I went to 90 and it was slightly better. The whole point of this gun was for cavities so the other wand didn’t work for that.

I feel like maybe there is an adjustment I’m missing.

Not sure...

Here's the video beginning where I start spraying, that's how it comes out of the 90 nozzle for me, is your similar?

Video Link to Fluid Film Spraying

 

[Spta97]

Is it sort of dripping and building up on the nozzle? Play with air pressure, and maybe thin the fluid. Ive never used SS so I dont know exactly what to recommend, but the mist coming out will never be a perfect 360 of fine drops IMHO.

When I use Rust Check (thin oil based) it is closer to a mist, but when I use Krown (thick, paste-like) its closer to spits and spatters.

Like Nemo, I usually use the right angle metal nozzle and it sprays better than the 360 wand. But none of the nozzles are really precision.

SS is very thin - probably the thinnest out of the major choices. It was a cool day but I had it warming in the sun and it was very runny.

What you describe is exactly my problem.

 

[Spta97]

Not sure...

Here's the video beginning where I start spraying, that's how it comes out of the 90 nozzle for me, is your similar?

Video Link to Fluid Film Spraying

That’s what I was expecting but it wasn’t even close to that even with that wand.

Another thing that was strange is it typically would take a few seconds to “recharge” after I let go of the trigger. Seeing your vid you were able to start and stop and still have good flow. There were times when I was holding it and could see that sometimes the wand would fill up with more fluid and others when it was a lot of air and less product.

I also noticed that the amount of fluid would increase if I pressed the trigger harder. I figured it should be an on/off thing.

Not sure if this is normal but pressing the trigger requires more effort than the WW gun. Not a ton but it got tiring holing it with my gloves all slippery.

 

[jonshonda]

Got the foam cannon out and filled it with dawn dish soap, then did the best I could to cover the entire undercarriage of the GX. Then spend another 30 minutes or so with the pressure washer getting it as clean as I could.

Hoping to get her up on jack stands and spray woolwax black this weekend. Then hoping I don't have to do it again for a couple of years.

 

[Spta97]

Got the foam cannon out and filled it with dawn dish soap, then did the best I could to cover the entire undercarriage of the GX. Then spend another 30 minutes or so with the pressure washer getting it as clean as I could.

Hoping to get her up on jack stands and spray woolwax black this weekend. Then hoping I don't have to do it again for a couple of years.

These coatings do require reapplying. Most people say annually but places that aren’t hit by water will last longer.

 

[XJSuperman]

Just finished my two last weekend. Woolwax kit and I did everything I could see/reach from under the vehicle on a lift. I am 98% sure that WW and FF are from the same company. FF is even named in my WW instructions. A friend has a 5gal bucket of FF, and it was older but thicker than my new WW gallon. I don't understand some of the comments in this thread saying otherwise? Either way, it worked great, and I'll go back through some door pockets with the cans I already had. I've used clear in the past but very much enjoyed the black coloring this time as it really helped to show where I had been and where I hadn't. This is a yearly activity.

 

[Spta97]

Well I called the seller and they recommended flushing it with lacquer thinner and getting it to spray, then trying the SS thinned. If that doesn't work, give them a call back and we can either exchange or refund.

He also said that there are no adjustments on the gun.

I don't think the SS has to be thinned as it was about the consistency of vegetable oil. That said, if I can get lacquer thinner to spray in a mist (like in @ItsNemo 's vid), it would point to the SS as the issue.

I doubt it but will give it a try. My fear is that this is typical China quality control and my gun is faulty but will try to fix before I confirm that.

Edit - to add Fluid Film is A LOT more viscous than Surface Shield - here's a vid which compares the two:

After seeing that, I seriously doubt it is the material causing the issue.

 

[jonshonda]

These coatings do require reapplying. Most people say annually but places that aren’t hit by water will last longer.

I know I know...wishful thinking ok!!

 

[Spta97]

I know I know...wishful thinking ok!!

I totally get it - this is one of the less fun messy as hell projects to undertake!

I'm assuming that what is in the inner cavities should last a few years?

 

[jonshonda]

I totally get it - this is one of the less fun messy as hell projects to undertake!

I'm assuming that what is in the inner cavities should last a few years?

When I did my 2009 Fit with aerosol Surface Shield it wasn't bad at all. Just wish I would have tarped the garage floor before putting it on jack stands. But even with a few drips it was only a minor mess. I would think the inner cavities would be maybe a 5 year or more deal, maybe even never again as there really isn't a reason that the coating would wear off?

 

[Spta97]

Update: I called the seller about the TP gun. He recommended I run thinner through it to see if it was clogged then run the Surface Shield again.

The thinner came though as expected in a nice mist. When I tried the SS again it was the same spitting drama. He is going to refund my money.

Because the SS is so thin I’m not convinced that the issue is viscosity. I could try thinning it (sort of did anyway) but I’m now on the lookout for a new gun which can handle misting more than the consistency of water.

Bummed as I was hoping this gun would do the trick and part of me wonders if it’s just a bad gun.

 

[madams135]

Update: I called the seller about the TP gun. He recommended I run thinner through it to see if it was clogged then run the Surface Shield again.

The thinner came though as expected in a nice mist. When I tried the SS again it was the same spitting drama. He is going to refund my money.

Because the SS is so thin I’m not convinced that the issue is viscosity. I could try thinning it (sort of did anyway) but I’m now on the lookout for a new gun which can handle misting more than the consistency of water.

Bummed as I was hoping this gun would do the trick and part of me wonders if it’s just a bad gun.

I'm in the same boat with trying to get into the cavities without drilling. Currently contemplating a new spray gun as well. Wondering how the saga played out for you?

 

[CGarage]

Great thread.

 

[Spta97]

I'm in the same boat with trying to get into the cavities without drilling. Currently contemplating a new spray gun as well. Wondering how the saga played out for you?

Timely post as this popped into my head last night!

I decided not to do the BMW doors (Blaster said it could impact the OEM wax) and for my Armada I just settled for the spitting mess of the TP gun from the initial try.

I was thinking I could just use the cans (not preferred) but I really want a gun that can do it.

From other posts I don’t see why this TP gun would not have worked? SS is very thin compared to others.

I figure I have until September to figure it out. Please post any progress you’ve made.

 

[madams135]

Timely post as this popped into my head last night!

I decided not to do the BMW doors (Blaster said it could impact the OEM wax) and for my Armada I just settled for the spitting mess of the TP gun from the initial try.

I was thinking I could just use the cans (not preferred) but I really want a gun that can do it.

From other posts I don’t see why this TP gun would not have worked? SS is very thin compared to others.

I figure I have until September to figure it out. Please post any progress you’ve made.

Thank you for the fast feedback! I tried to make a reducer via multiple different sized hoses, and insert one of the aerosol spray tip atomizer hoses in the end. I ran into the same issue of not having enough air flow to **** fluid film into the hose, and was actually blowing it out of the relief hole in the pro gun. I may try to heat/dilute the fluid film more to see if I can overcome this. If this fails, I may give the gun you bought a go and see if it was just a bad gun you received. I have a new CX5 with 500 miles, so I'm itching to succeed here while the car is new. The things we obsess about....

 

[madams135]

Alright, time for my update. I received the RODAC gun from Amazon for $60. I heated my FF in a pot with water on a stove until it very thinned.

Hooked the gun up to my compressor with an inline regulator, and a large amount of air was instantly coming out of the gun. I think product as well without even pulling trigger if I recall. There were some reviews noting this, so thinking I may have gotten a defective one as well.

I believe at that point I adjusted my regulator north of 90 and it seemed to atomize more, but still not perfect like the woolwax gun. Product was still delayed, i.e. I would pull the trigger, watch a glob come through the hose, and then spray maybe 3-5 seconds later. Once it cleared the product out, there was still some residual spray coming out so I had to move fast between cavities as to not get some spray where I did not want it.

The 90 degree attachment seemed to work better for spraying/atomizing with less globs overall. It worked pretty well for getting into the small door drains and the hatch drains on my CX5.

The 360 wand was more finicky and I did have some sputtering on the end. Once I played with the regulator/pressure, I got a good enough spray to give it a shot. Pulled the door kick plate trim and inserted it in small holes to get pillars a,b,c. Since the product delivery was delayed, I pulled the trigger in 3 second bursts while continually moving the wand inside the cavity. I likely used way too much as well.

I'll note that the 360 attachment tip got caught up inside a cavity at one point. I tugged it a bit back and forth to try to get it unstuck and it sheared the metal tip in half. Clearly poor quality. All in all, it got the job done. I'm on the fence on if I would go this route again or just buy the cans. I may ask the seller for a refund.

Is it the design of this gun to always release pressure out of the hose, or was this likely a bad trigger as well?

 

[Spta97]

Alright, time for my update. I received the RODAC gun from Amazon for $60. I heated my FF in a pot with water on a stove until it very thinned.

Hooked the gun up to my compressor with an inline regulator, and a large amount of air was instantly coming out of the gun. I think product as well without even pulling trigger if I recall. There were some reviews noting this, so thinking I may have gotten a defective one as well.

I believe at that point I adjusted my regulator north of 90 and it seemed to atomize more, but still not perfect like the woolwax gun. Product was still delayed, i.e. I would pull the trigger, watch a glob come through the hose, and then spray maybe 3-5 seconds later. Once it cleared the product out, there was still some residual spray coming out so I had to move fast between cavities as to not get some spray where I did not want it.

The 90 degree attachment seemed to work better for spraying/atomizing with less globs overall. It worked pretty well for getting into the small door drains and the hatch drains on my CX5.

The 360 wand was more finicky and I did have some sputtering on the end. Once I played with the regulator/pressure, I got a good enough spray to give it a shot. Pulled the door kick plate trim and inserted it in small holes to get pillars a,b,c. Since the product delivery was delayed, I pulled the trigger in 3 second bursts while continually moving the wand inside the cavity. I likely used way too much as well.

I'll note that the 360 attachment tip got caught up inside a cavity at one point. I tugged it a bit back and forth to try to get it unstuck and it sheared the metal tip in half. Clearly poor quality. All in all, it got the job done. I'm on the fence on if I would go this route again or just buy the cans. I may ask the seller for a refund.

Is it the design of this gun to always release pressure out of the hose, or was this likely a bad trigger as well?

Thanks for the update. Although I'm disappointed to hear that it seems to be impossible to get a gun which can spray in cavities.

I had a similar experience with the TP Tools gun I got. I didn't try thinning it but the Surface Shield is very thin to begin with and it was heating in the sun - very runny. When I tried running paint thinner (a liquid like alcohol) it ran fine. I could have tried to thin the SS but I did have some leftover thinner in and it didn't seem to make a difference.

They actually have a viscosity spec so I could try to find a gun which will do that but I haven't had much luck and don't want to spend $350 just yet.

Surely there is an affordable solution to this?