Changed a lower control arm in a parking lot- what I learned

[Hohn]

A friend has a 2018 Buick Enclave his wife drives. She hit a curb at a dark intersection and bent the LCA to where the vehicle couldn't be driven. Along with another friend from church, we decided to tackle the replacement in the parking lot where the disabled vehicle was.

Well, 90 minutes later, the arm is replaced and bob is officially the uncle.

This was the first time I've used my new extra-long wrenches (Capri zero offset DBEs) and the Tekton ratcheting extra long flex (the previous model 6pt variant). Here are the random learnings from this experience:

• I can't see how a long ratcheting wrench WITHOUT the flex end would be useful in an automotive setting. It's exceedingly unlikely you'll be able to even get the wrench on the fastener without a flex end, never mind be able to advance the ratcheting mechanism.
• The Capris are a heck of a bargain relative to their quality. Perfect for breaking loose the LCA mount bolts. Long wrenches for more leverage are much nicer on older hands and shoulders.
• WrightGrip 2.0s are the best money I've ever spent in tools. The ball joint required an 18mm open end on the nut (thanks GM for having no clearance for even a thin box end). The confidence of knowing that my open end 18mm won't slip is hard to describe. I have busted many a knuckle on open ends and the Wrights basically eliminate the concern entirely. I had to buy the 16mm and 18mm Wrights separately as the standard set skips these, (Yes, American tool company skips ANSI-standard metric hex sizes. SMH).
• Always bring the other pry bars
• and the universal and extensions, too.
• Cordless impacts are a game changer for field work-- where they fit. For this job, mine didn't offer much utility once the wheel was off.

Thanks for coming to my Ted talk.

 

[Hohn]

I should add-- a KABO-style long ratcheting wrench would have been a fail last night. The built-in "socket" in the end makes it too thick. I've personally never seen a hex tall enough to benefit from the extra wrench thickness, but I can see how it might be useful to have a bit of protrusion below the wrench. I don't see much advantage here compared to a Nano socket though.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

The long zero offset stuff works much better standing at chest height.

Wright grips are definitely awesome.

 

[Wamsutta]

The ball joint required an 18mm open end on the nut (thanks GM for having no clearance for even a thin box end).

Let me guess, where the tripod housing of the axle shaft goes into the hub/bearing assembly was in the way of the ball joint nut; correct?

 

[JRC3]

My first tool in any parking lot repair is my AAA card. ha

 

[gahrajmahal]

Hohn, good on you for helping out a friend! Glad your project cooperated with you. I will probably be doing this job soon too (but in the comfort of my own garage) I may look into these tool suggestions!

 

[vavet]

That’s awesome, seems like any minor task always results in 18 trips back to the toolbox, so changing a control arm miles from home would be daunting to me,

glad it worked out for you,

 

[driftpin]

My first tool in any parking lot repair is my AAA card. ha

Yep, I'm with you there.

No way would I attempt a collapsed steering /drive component like a LCA/UCA in a effin' parking lot! Get it home, or to wherever it's gonna be worked on, and have at-it. Yes, that's the purpose of a AAA card.

Suppose you get it apart, and something breaks, leaving the car with 3 wheels? That tow is likely gonna be much-more expensive. I suppose that's the purpose of those tow truck dollies that allow movement other than dragging 4,000 lbs of broken auto/SUV across the pavement, and onto a flatbed. Maybe a sling truck could do it. Anyway, I'm not gonna work on that repair in a parking lot.

One time, when I was young and poor, (about 23) and the value of my 'doghouse' '69 Chevy van (V8, three on the tree) depended on the level of gas in the tank, I had the Z-bar for the clutch throwout break, leaving me stranded in a parking lot. I had my g.f. with me, and I nearly emptied my wallet springing for a taxi ride back to our apartment. I was able to find a Chevy dealer with the piece in-stock, and I was fortunate to have the g.f. have a better condition car than me. She got me back to the truck, and I 'got out & got-under.' It was not too-bad of a job, and maybe an hour to repair it. The OEM part lasted me until I sold the truck, a year later. I can't think of a breakdown after that where I had to repair something after going home to get some tools. As to the timeframe of that incident, I'm well-past the initial full S.S. date.

 

[ATTappman]

This was the first time I've used my new extra-long wrenches (Capri zero offset DBEs) and the Tekton ratcheting extra long flex (the previous model 6pt variant). Here are the random learnings from this experience:

Can you give us the part numbers or links to the Capri zero offset DBEs and the Tekton ratcheting extra long flex?

 

[Dave455]

Good result!

If someone is disabled by the roadside, they’re usually annoyed at the damage, a bit hesitant about the best course of action, and apprehensive about being ripped off.

Even if you can just provide a second opinion of “it needs to be recovered”, that’s useful. If you can repair it on the spot, awesome!

I’ve managed to recover quite a few vehicles, for a non pro. Yes, long wrenches, long ratchet, pry bars and universal always seem to be needed. Big hammer too!

 

[Busted Knucles]

No fun but I have had to do a front wheel bearing on an old Plymouth in a parking lot with a flash light before.

 

[AC-WC]

Better man than me-I would have had it towed home and then do the work.

 

[Wrench97]

I rebuilt the right bank of a 8v71 Detroit in a motel parking lot on the VA/NC boarder once many years ago..............................

 

[p90puma]

• I can't see how a long ratcheting wrench WITHOUT the flex end would be useful in an automotive setting. It's exceedingly unlikely you'll be able to even get the wrench on the fastener without a flex end, never mind be able to advance the ratcheting mechanism.

My XL ratcheting combo wrenches (without flex) worked great for some heat shield bracket bolts on my LR4 this past weekend.

 

[gizardlizard]

Everytime I run to an auto parts store, there is always someone in the parking lot doing some “ghetto wrenching.” It’s not safe at all having a vehicle up on Jack stands or worse yet, just the Jack while working on the car in a busy parking lot. Zero common sense in my book. Took these pics this past summer.

 

[kmacht]

Sometimes you have no choice. I ended up doing a front wheel hub in a 4wd pickup this summer in an autozone parking lot. I was 1100 miles from home, it was a Sunday so no repair shops were open and after passing through the beat up roads in Chicago the bearing disintegrated just over the Wisconsin boarder to the point it was unsafe to drive. I did get an answer from one shop that I called and they said it would be a week before they could fix it. We were also in the middle of nowhere so no Uber, taxi service or car rental place for 50 miles. AAA towed us to an autozone parking lot and we bought the hub and tools to do the job. It was a pain to get done but when your choices are either fix it or sleep in the truck in the parking lot it becomes clear what needs to be done.

 

[unslow1]

I rebuilt the right bank of a 8v71 Detroit in a motel parking lot on the VA/NC boarder once many years ago..............................

This made me think of a few also. I was thinking of starting a thread about those types of repairs. This one could get hijacked pretty quickly if we all started posting.

 

[whateg01]

...

Suppose you get it apart, and something breaks, leaving the car with 3 wheels? That tow is likely gonna be much-more expensive. I suppose that's the purpose of those tow truck dollies that allow movement other than dragging 4,000 lbs of broken auto/SUV across the pavement, and onto a flatbed. Maybe a sling truck could do it. Anyway, I'm not gonna work on that repair in a parking lot.

Many a disabled car has been pulled onto a rollback before. In fact, about the only tows I see some are all rollback nowadays. The only times I see wheel lifts used for automotive is repos.

 

[M635_Guy]

A friend has a 2018 Buick Enclave his wife drives. She hit a curb at a dark intersection and bent the LCA to where the vehicle couldn't be driven. Along with another friend from church, we decided to tackle the replacement in the parking lot where the disabled vehicle was.

Well, 90 minutes later, the arm is replaced and bob is officially the uncle.

Good on you for helping your buddy.

* I can't see how a long ratcheting wrench WITHOUT the flex end would be useful in an automotive setting. It's exceedingly unlikely you'll be able to even get the wrench on the fastener without a flex end, never mind be able to advance the ratcheting mechanism.

I think the non-flex ones are mainly useful if the vehicle is up on a lift. I have a set I should probably sell...

* Cordless impacts are a game changer for field work-- where they fit. For this job, mine didn't offer much utility once the wheel was off.

It's one reason I love my M18 Mid-torque. It's not going to fit everywhere, but it's damn close to everywhere my M12 Stubby will go. Working on my Mini, it's been a godsend.

 

[M635_Guy]

Everytime I run to an auto parts store, there is always someone in the parking lot doing some “ghetto wrenching.” It’s not safe at all having a vehicle up on Jack stands or worse yet, just the Jack while working on the car in a busy parking lot. Zero common sense in my book. Took these pics this past summer.

That makes me shudder...

As for working in the parts store, sometimes that just where it has to happen. My buddy and I were coming back from a show when the water pump/alternator belt decided it was time to end service.

It was a PITA, but got it done (it is up on stands, which we unfortunately had to buy). My car stayed home this year and I rode with him - glad I decided to bring my tools anyway - lol.

The AutoZone not far from me always has multiple cars getting repairs. There's a couple 'mobile mechanics' essentially working out to the parking lot. They do seem to have things together, and they aren't leaving stains/etc. to speak of, so seems fine...

 

[Hohn]

Let me guess, where the tripod housing of the axle shaft goes into the hub/bearing assembly was in the way of the ball joint nut; correct?

It was actually the CV itself-- the cast part that the boot clamps on. I have a blurry screengrab from a video.

 

[Hohn]

That’s awesome, seems like any minor task always results in 18 trips back to the toolbox, so changing a control arm miles from home would be daunting to me,

glad it worked out for you,

Credit to my partner in crime here who had the foresight to bring tools I forgot-- 1/2" extensions and a universal among them.
I probably could have done it myself with 2-3 trips to my home base (5 min up the road) but without his assistance and expertise it likely would have taken at LEAST twice as long.

His ability to pry down on the knuckle to get loose the ball joint as I undid the nut was the key to the whole thing. The threads were turning in the nut, and I had no way to secure the threaded portion enough to turn the nut without the threads turning also. His prying put enough load on the BJ to let the nut turn without the threads going also, allowing use to actually separate the joint.

 

[Hohn]

Can you give us the part numbers or links to the Capri zero offset DBEs and the Tekton ratcheting extra long flex?

Sorry for my oversight.

Capri DBEs:
Tektons are discontinued now (6pt) but here's the new 12pt version they just announced a couple days ago: https://www.tekton.com/wrenches/ratcheting-wrenches

 

[Hohn]

Everytime I run to an auto parts store, there is always someone in the parking lot doing some “ghetto wrenching.” It’s not safe at all having a vehicle up on Jack stands or worse yet, just the Jack while working on the car in a busy parking lot. Zero common sense in my book.

Jack stands are as safe as the person setting them up and using them. They are unforgiving of foolishness. Not all of us have lifts in our garage. But you can go pretty far with a healthy respect for the inherent risk associated with being under a large mass that can crush you.

Yes, there are lot of idiots using jackstands. But that doesn't mean using them makes you an idiot. Sometimes it just means you're poor or not awash in cash.

IN this case, the tow alone would have been $150 or so, the part was $180, the labor would have been at least two hours, so figure $200.

Online resources show average LCA replacement cost of $400+ without the tow.

Not going to judge others, but when I have the talent and tools to save someone $400 or so for the cost a couple hours of my time and maybe a day or two of minor aches, I think it would be doing them dirty NOT to help.

With great power (and tools) comes great responsibility.

 

[Tynee]

Jack stands are as safe as the person setting them up and using them. They are unforgiving of foolishness. Not all of us have lifts in our garage. But you can go pretty far with a healthy respect for the inherent risk associated with being under a large mass that can crush you.

Yes, there are lot of idiots using jackstands. But that doesn't mean using them makes you an idiot. Sometimes it just means you're poor or not awash in cash.

I don't think Hohn meant that using jack stands is unsafe, I took him to mean that using them in a parking lot where any passerby could bump the car you're under is a poor decision.

 

[gizardlizard]

I don't think Hohn meant that using jack stands is unsafe, I took him to mean that using them in a parking lot where any passerby could bump the car you're under is a poor decision.

Correct. I wasn’t implying that Jack stands were not safe at all. Using them or a Jack in a parking lot is just plain stupid short of a quick tire change. I don’t care care how much money you THINK you’re saving by avoiding a tow etc but it won’t matter much when someone on their phone isn’t paying attention and they run into the car you’re working on because you’ll be dead.

 

[M635_Guy]

Correct. I wasn’t implying that Jack stands were not safe at all. Using them or a Jack in a parking lot is just plain stupid short of a quick tire change. I don’t care care how much money you THINK you’re saving by avoiding a tow etc but it won’t matter much when someone on their phone isn’t paying attention and they run into the car you’re working on because you’ll be dead.

It's not a best-practice, but sometimes that's what has to happen. Doing it alone is far sketchier than doing it with a buddy who can keep an eye out/etc.

In my case, we were there after hours and I was on watch. The other car you see is the very-awesome manager of the store who pulled his car up and parked to lend us some light.

 

[AEAdam]

I've done this sort of thing too. Agree it's super instructive. And its these situations, where I feel disadvantaged somehow, that I appreciate having really nice tools. In these moments, I'm not congratulating myself for having saved a few bucks on my choice of wrenches.

Asking about track saws in another thread. I've been cutting all my bevels with a 100yr old hand plane. Works fine, and not that slow, but not convenient in an austere work environment. The high cost of a new saw (approx $800), while off putting, is really worth it to complete the task at hand with less drama.

 

[finn]

I did the lower ball joint on my 55 Chevy in a parking lot while I was in college many years ago. The stud popped off the ball as i entered a gas station (no service facilities).

I walked home, gathered a ratchet, a few wrenches, a bar, a BFH, then borrowed my dad’s car and picked up a new ball joint.

I don’t recall having any issues changing it. Probably uses a bumper jack and a few 4x4s, or whatever was handy for cribbing. Might have even been the spare tire.

To this day I don’t fret about traveling with a tool kit in the vehicle. You can usually buy whatever you need for not that much money, and who packs a lower ball joint as spare parts.

Same deal when I lost a timing belt on an off ramp. Got a ride home, picked up a new belt and gathered a few tools, did the deed on an I88 off ramp in Downers Grove.

Starter on my 88 K1500 dies at the pumps. Same routine. Push it to the side, get a ride home, pick up parts and tools. Didn’t even need to jack it up. Must have gained weight since then.

 

[Packard V8]

If one needs a new set of OEs, the Wright look like a good way to go. Having said that, my Snap-on are only fifty years old, so not yet fully depreciated.

jack vines

 

[Steve_P]

Congrats on changing a LCA in a parking lot! Impressive.