To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Heating a large garage .... need real world advice please

OP
X

xtal_01

Active member
Joined
Mar 15, 2021
Messages
36
Location
Jericho, VT
Wow! I did HVAC in North Dakota fort 20 years. 30 BTU per square foot will heat a building with 20 foot side walls. With you concerns with having a tight building you could easily heat is on half of what they are saying.

Like I said, 4,000 sqft x 30 BTU = 120K BTU. If you want to go with the 1100 sqft per bay, x 3 bays = 99K BTU. The three 45K heaters will end up with 108 after efficiency loss. I might go with 60K units, but honestly, if it were my place it would be three 45K heaters. Your biggest problem is ceiling height, you need a ceiling fan to stir it up.

We did a 34,000 sqft truck shop, 30 BTU per sqft. Heats it just fine, we could have went smaller. common steel building, nothing special. Probably leaked like a sieve and it seemed like and overhead door was opening every half hour getting trucks in and out.

I heat an 1950's, poorly insulated, 900+ sqft rambler on 24K BTU input down to -30F, then I enable second stage heat.
Hmmm ... I know what I am doing next rainy day ... re-running the numbers to see where I made my mistake.

Thanks!
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Bert_

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 24, 2016
Messages
9,744
Location
NW Iowa
The calculator he used is actually ok, I've used it before.

I punched some numbers in based on the location, 4000 sqft and the construction mentioned in the original post. It spit out about 70,000 BTU for the whole shed.

That means you'd be looking for around 90,000 input assuming an 80% heater
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20231115-185008.png
    Screenshot_20231115-185008.png
    333.7 KB · Views: 5
Last edited:
OP
X

xtal_01

Active member
Joined
Mar 15, 2021
Messages
36
Location
Jericho, VT
IMO, the online calculators are way over sized. It has been discussed here before.
And I believe that. I have a 100K two stage furnace .... the second stage was having uses ... ran on the first stage (60K) for a few months in the coldest part of winter with no issues.
 

u3b3rg33k

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 18, 2017
Messages
4,048
I can't use a furnace (standard or condensing) as they have a minimum turn down temp of 55 or 60 deg (checked with two factories .... need relatively warm return air or they will corrode).
you're somewhat mistaken on this.

condensing furnaces need freeze protection (condensate can freeze and plug traps/HX), but for either a 80% or condensing you can put a bypass duct, damper and a simple thermostat on it to bleed heat into the return plenum until the space is warm enough for proper operation (non-condensing operation in the primary HX). this could be as simple as a 55F snap disc in the return and a 24V zone damper. it would not affect delivered BTU.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

theoldwizard1

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
43,191
Location
SE MI
Mini-split heat pump with multiple air handlers is an option. The problem is large compressor unit with multiple air handlers are not super efficient. Something your size would require 2 maybe even 3 compressors. Now we are talking some real $,$$$ ! Even though they are typically more cost effective than natural gas and cheaper to install (especially if the gas needs duct work), this type of installation would have a LONG pay back time !

The good news is, they are easy to program for different comfort levels in different rooms. (Not really a bonus for you but there is no extra installation charge for A/C and humidity control.)

Last bad news is, it you have plumbing in the building or other thing that would freeze or be damaged without heat during an extended power outage, you need a big backup generator or alternative source of heat.
 

u3b3rg33k

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 18, 2017
Messages
4,048
Mini-split heat pump with multiple air handlers is an option. The problem is large compressor unit with multiple air handlers are not super efficient. Something your size would require 2 maybe even 3 compressors. Now we are talking some real $,$$$ ! Even though they are typically more cost effective than natural gas and cheaper to install (especially if the gas needs duct work), this type of installation would have a LONG pay back time !

The good news is, they are easy to program for different comfort levels in different rooms. (Not really a bonus for you but there is no extra installation charge for A/C and humidity control.)

Last bad news is, it you have plumbing in the building or other thing that would freeze or be damaged without heat during an extended power outage, you need a big backup generator or alternative source of heat.
those are the cases where a small generator/lithium pack + heat tape are often warranted.

some of the LFP "portable generators" even have UPS-like modes where they'll pass power and switch to the battery if the power goes out. way cheaper per hour of runtime than a traditional lead acid UPS.
 
OP
X

xtal_01

Active member
Joined
Mar 15, 2021
Messages
36
Location
Jericho, VT
Mini-split heat pump with multiple air handlers is an option. The problem is large compressor unit with multiple air handlers are not super efficient. Something your size would require 2 maybe even 3 compressors. Now we are talking some real $,$$$ ! Even though they are typically more cost effective than natural gas and cheaper to install (especially if the gas needs duct work), this type of installation would have a LONG pay back time !

The good news is, they are easy to program for different comfort levels in different rooms. (Not really a bonus for you but there is no extra installation charge for A/C and humidity control.)

Last bad news is, it you have plumbing in the building or other thing that would freeze or be damaged without heat during an extended power outage, you need a big backup generator or alternative source of heat.
We do loose power in winter ... last time it was for 5 days. I have a decent size generator. Might need and even larger one for a heat pump.

Thanks!
 

u3b3rg33k

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 18, 2017
Messages
4,048
We do loose power in winter ... last time it was for 5 days. I have a decent size generator. Might need and even larger one for a heat pump.

Thanks!
We've a PTO generator for such rare events. 4 days was the most recent long one. fortunately, inverter heat pumps are much easier on inrush than PSC compressors.
 

HoosierBuddy

Well-known member
Joined
May 9, 2006
Messages
2,925
Location
Southern Indiana
I'm thinking natural gas hanging heater all day for your situation based on:

1. NG is available
2. You only want to heat minimally with the ability to bring the temperature up to a more comfortable level perhaps when you are working out there.

That just screams NG hanging heater to me and you'll actually want it to be oversized somewhat so you can bring the temperature up rapidly from (say) 45 degrees to 65 degrees if you want to go work out there on a Saturday morning.

The whole 3 bays thing though makes using a single hanging heater problematic. For separate areas like that, a ducted solution would be more appropriate. So now you're back to talking about a NG furnace with ductwork. Zone Control could be added with automatic dampers, but I don't think I'd mess with it too much.

With a high efficiency NG you will have to leave it on all winter to protect against freezing the condensate lines.

Hmm...I'd almost look at going with 2 small Modine Effinity93 heaters and put them on the outside bays only. Leave a tee in the NG line where it crosses between the bays so you can add a third if you need to for more comfort down the road. The Effinity93 line starts at 55,000 BTU/hour. A unit that size is roughly $1700 each.
 

Bert_

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 24, 2016
Messages
9,744
Location
NW Iowa
There can be reasons to oversize somewhat, large temperature setbacks like the op is planning.

But three 75,000 heaters (225,000 total) when the building needs less than 100,000 total is not a great plan.

A grossly oversized heater is actually less effective for large setbacks because it warms up the air quickly but cycles off before any of the things in the shop can warm up. Once the heater cycles off it quickly feels cold again. You can get around this problem with two-stage heaters or multiple heaters in the same bay. I would just keep it to no more than 150% of a good load calculation.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom