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AlphaGarage/Wolverine Epoxy Floor Finished! Review + Pics

joemyself

New member
Joined
Oct 21, 2023
Messages
4
I've finally finished my epoxy floors and am so thrilled with how they came out. I first want to start by recognizing the people over at Alpha Garage - I have nothing but great reviews and experience working with them. While I was able to learn a lot here on GJ, there was still a lot of unanswered questions I had, and Bert from AlphaGarage was my DUDE and helped answer any of my questions. It was extremely helpful having him just a text or phone call away. With that said, THANK YOU BERT! Let's get into it!

PRODUCTS USED
Wolverine Coating 3-Part System

MY GARAGE

~400sqft attached garage. House was built in the early 80s. Slab was in fairly decent condition. (I had recently drywalled/painted the whole garage)

IMG_8079.png
Above photo is kind of out of order, but gives idea of garage layout/size. This was after I grinded floors.
IMG_5706.png
Here's an idea of what the floor/walls looked like when we first moved in some 4 years ago.

FLOOR PREP
This was by far the hardest part of the whole project. I rented a stand up/push 10" diamond disc grinder from HD which worked pretty well all things considering. It took me about 6-7 hours to complete. The grinder I had allowed me to hook up to my shop vac to control dust. The filter would get caked in concrete dust every 15 min or so, so I would need to turn everything off, open vac, beat filter, and resume. I'm sure there are better methods or better vacuums to use for this. Oh well. Turned out great. To remove all of the residual dust I swept/leaf blew repeatedly until there was almost no pickup of dust when I swiped with my finger. I was under a tight schedule and I did not want to spray water and have to wait 24+ hours for it to dry, or risk any possibility of moisture under the epoxy.

PRIMER
With my fancy spiked shoes on, I got the primer (BondTite 1101) mixed up per the instructions and started laying the epoxy. This was tough to spread as it was soaking into the concrete pretty quickly (at least that's what it felt like). In hindsight I wish I would have had a notched squeegee on hand to better spread the epoxy. Instead I was spreading with my 18" roller. I had to press pretty darn hard to get it to spread, and I ended up snapping the wooden painters pole! I frantically went and swapped it out (thank God I had another on standby). Don't cheap out on your painters pole. Spend the extra money to get a heavy duty one.
IMG_8093.png
IMG_8092.png

BODY COAT

The next day I prepped the floor for the body coat (LiquaTile 1184). I went with their Silver Gray color. I went over the whole floor and sanded out any bubbles, then wiped everything with denatured alcohol. Here comes the fun part! Mixed up the body coat and started pouring! This went down a lot easier but I still kinda wish I had a notched squeegee to spread. Once I had it all rolled out evenly (with my new heavy duty painters pole LOL), I went around and threw down a very light flake. (Flake variation is called Dakota) Note* I was originally going to paint the perimeter curb with epoxy as well, but after talking with Bert he had suggested saving some mixed epoxy on a paint stick, and then taking it into HD to get it color matched in a masonry paint. I am SO glad I ended up doing this because A) You don't want/need to waste your epoxy in these areas that wont be receiving foot/vehicle traffic and B) It would have been WAY too overwhelming trying to get that all painted on before it reached the end of it's pot life. It's a fairly tedious process if your curb is rough/porous like mine.
IMG_8094.png
Body coat finished. DAYUM!
IMG_8095.png

:love:

CLEAR COAT + TRACTION ADDITIVE
The next day I went over everything with denatured alcohol and then began mixing the clear coat EnduraShield 2254. I opted for the traction additive as well (SpheriTex 110) which is added and mixed into the clear coat. Applying the clear coat was easy, but needed to be done so very particularly. You really only want a light coating everywhere. If you add too much to your roller, it will pool in areas and the traction additive will sink. When I was finished, I think I made the mistake of pouring what was left from the paint tray out onto the floor. I rolled it out, but I think these areas we're thicker than others and so it dried inconsistently from the properly rolled areas. The result was some areas looking glossier than others. You really have to look for it, and can only see in certain light, so it's not that big of a deal for me.
IMG_1177.JPEG
The timing was perfect, the clear coat was applied and we were leaving on vacation the next day, so the floor was able to cure for about 7 days without us being home. It would have been hard to resist the temptation to start moving in on day 4 or 5. I'm glad I was able to give it the best chance for cure.

CURB PAINTING
Once back from vacation the floor was cured perfectly. Like mentioned earlier, I color matched my epoxy and painted the curbs with a masonry paint. 1 gallon of this from HD was more than enough. I was able to take my time and not worry about epoxy hardening. Also, the color was a perfect match.
72109366748__E82B9F1D-14F2-477C-9B5E-16DA222D383F.png


CONCLUSION
In the end, I'm super happy with how it turned out. My garage is completely transformed and I look forward to spending my time in there working on projects. I can't emphasize enough how pleased I was with Alpha Garage. Not only do you get a really solid product, but you also get top of the line customer service. You would think I'm being paid for this, but I promise I'm not. I'm just a very happy customer!

Hope you guys enjoyed my review. Feel free to leave any questions! I'll leave you with some photos of how the garage is currently looking. I'm already starting to build out my workbench which I am very excited about.

WB_1.png
That workbench is about 12ft. Looks way smaller in this photo. Beer for reference. Also, you could say I'm a Husky influencer. lol
WB_2.png
I had just mopped the floor and my footprints were left behind. They are not cured into floor I promise. Also, my '87 pickup wondering why it's out in the rain and not in the garage. :mad:
 
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FJ4FUN

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 28, 2014
Messages
626
Location
NorCal
I've finally finished my epoxy floors and am so thrilled with how they came out. I first want to start by recognizing the people over at Alpha Garage - I have nothing but great reviews and experience working with them. While I was able to learn a lot here on GJ, there was still a lot of unanswered questions I had, and Bert from AlphaGarage was my DUDE and helped answer any of my questions. It was extremely helpful having him just a text or phone call away. With that said, THANK YOU BERT! Let's get into it!

PRODUCTS USED
Wolverine Coating 3-Part System

MY GARAGE

~400sqft attached garage. House was built in the early 80s. Slab was in fairly decent condition. (I had recently drywalled/painted the whole garage)

IMG_8079.png
Above photo is kind of out of order, but gives idea of garage layout/size. This was after I grinded floors.
IMG_5706.png
Here's an idea of what the floor/walls looked like when we first moved in some 4 years ago.

FLOOR PREP
This was by far the hardest part of the whole project. I rented a stand up/push 10" diamond disc grinder from HD which worked pretty well all things considering. It took me about 6-7 hours to complete. The grinder I had allowed me to hook up to my shop vac to control dust. The filter would get caked in concrete dust every 15 min or so, so I would need to turn everything off, open vac, beat filter, and resume. I'm sure there are better methods or better vacuums to use for this. Oh well. Turned out great. To remove all of the residual dust I swept/leaf blew repeatedly until there was almost no pickup of dust when I swiped with my finger. I was under a tight schedule and I did not want to spray water and have to wait 24+ hours for it to dry, or risk any possibility of moisture under the epoxy.

PRIMER
With my fancy spiked shoes on, I got the primer (BondTite 1101) mixed up per the instructions and started laying the epoxy. This was tough to spread as it was soaking into the concrete pretty quickly (at least that's what it felt like). In hindsight I wish I would have had a notched squeegee on hand to better spread the epoxy. Instead I was spreading with my 18" roller. I had to press pretty darn hard to get it to spread, and I ended up snapping the wooden painters pole! I frantically went and swapped it out (thank God I had another on standby). Don't cheap out on your painters pole. Spend the extra money to get a heavy duty one.
IMG_8093.png
IMG_8092.png

BODY COAT
The next day I prepped the floor for the body coat (LiquaTile 1184). I went with their Silver Gray color. I went over the whole floor and sanded out any bubbles, then wiped everything with denatured alcohol. Here comes the fun part! Mixed up the body coat and started pouring! This went down a lot easier but I still kinda wish I had a notched squeegee to spread. Once I had it all rolled out evenly (with my new heavy duty painters pole LOL), I went around and threw down a very light flake. (Flake variation is called Dakota) Note* I was originally going to paint the perimeter curb with epoxy as well, but after talking with Bert he had suggested saving some mixed epoxy on a paint stick, and then taking it into HD to get it color matched in a masonry paint. I am SO glad I ended up doing this because A) You don't want/need to waste your epoxy in these areas that wont be receiving foot/vehicle traffic and B) It would have been WAY too overwhelming trying to get that all painted on before it reached the end of it's pot life. It's a fairly tedious process if your curb is rough/porous like mine.
IMG_8094.png
Body coat finished. DAYUM!
IMG_8095.png

:love:

CLEAR COAT + TRACTION ADDITIVE
The next day I went over everything with denatured alcohol and then began mixing the clear coat EnduraShield 2254. I opted for the traction additive as well (SpheriTex 110) which is added and mixed into the clear coat. Applying the clear coat was easy, but needed to be done so very particularly. You really only want a light coating everywhere. If you add too much to your roller, it will pool in areas and the traction additive will sink. When I was finished, I think I made the mistake of pouring what was left from the paint tray out onto the floor. I rolled it out, but I think these areas we're thicker than others and so it dried inconsistently from the properly rolled areas. The result was some areas looking glossier than others. You really have to look for it, and can only see in certain light, so it's not that big of a deal for me.
IMG_1177.JPEG
The timing was perfect, the clear coat was applied and we were leaving on vacation the next day, so the floor was able to cure for about 7 days without us being home. It would have been hard to resist the temptation to start moving in on day 4 or 5. I'm glad I was able to give it the best chance for cure.

CURB PAINTING
Once back from vacation the floor was cured perfectly. Like mentioned earlier, I color matched my epoxy and painted the curbs with a masonry paint. 1 gallon of this from HD was more than enough. I was able to take my time and not worry about epoxy hardening. Also, the color was a perfect match.
72109366748__E82B9F1D-14F2-477C-9B5E-16DA222D383F.png


CONCLUSION
In the end, I'm super happy with how it turned out. My garage is completely transformed and I look forward to spending my time in there working on projects. I can't emphasize enough how pleased I was with Alpha Garage. Not only do you get a really solid product, but you also get top of the line customer service. You would think I'm being paid for this, but I promise I'm not. I'm just a very happy customer!

Hope you guys enjoyed my review. Feel free to leave any questions! I'll leave you with some photos of how the garage is currently looking. I'm already starting to build out my workbench which I am very excited about.

WB_1.png
That workbench is about 12ft. Looks way smaller in this photo. Beer for reference. Also, you could say I'm a Husky influencer. lol
WB_2.png
I had just mopped the floor and my footprints were left behind. They are not cured into floor I promise. Also, my '87 pickup wondering why it's out in the rain and not in the garage. :mad:
You are WELCOME @joemyself!! I always enjoy assisting our customers with their projects and sharing in the satisfaction of a job well done.
Your review is super helpful and brings up a few points/questions.
Floor Prep:
*Did you rent a single head or dual head Edco? 6-7hrs seems a bit long even with the prior coating.
*If you end up going with the shop vac route using a Dust Deputy type of pre-filter will help to get more time in before having to unclog the filter and you'll find them pretty handy for future shop projects as well.
Prime:
*Yep good news, you did a great job grinding and you have a really absorbent slab! Bad news, you have a really absorbent slab! ;) Wolverine's BondTite 1101 primer is very slippery and is formulated to readily/deeply absorb into the substrate. At the sametime you would be surprised (well maybe not anymore for you) at how far you can push it around even after it seems as though you've run out of material. You just need to keep the roller moving from wet areas to dry. As long as everything gets wet you'll be fine.
*Squeegees are very helpful but for applying primers (and flood coats) go with the flexible flat squeegee. The notched squeegees are designed to roughly gauge the LiquaTile body coat distribution. If you use the notched squeegee for the prime coat the notches will get smaller due to the concrete abrasion.
*Roller Extension Pole and EQ. As you discovered... do NOT cheap out on the roller equipment. Can't speak for other manufacturers but Wolverine products are thick and heavy. When choosing roller frames and extension poles the temptation is to go "disposable", DON'T (or, if you do, get extras and save the receipts) This also why we strongly recommend to always have a back-up drill motor on-hand in case you burn one up while mixing. When dealing with 2K materials the clock starts ticking the moment Parts A&B come together, you have to be able quickly bring in a back-up if something breaks midstream.
Body Coat:
* Again squeegees are helpful especially for larger projects or, if you're going solo on a smaller floor such as your's. But, as you noted, the body coat is easier to manage for two reasons. 1. you're not dealing with absorption 2. typically you have twice the amount of material so the self-leveling nature of the LiquaTile does a lot of the work for you in that once you get the gross distribution done via back rolling it will continue to flow for hours afterward as it seeks level.
Clear Coat + Traction Additive:
* Maybe we need to add some instruction regarding this but, you should always have some qty of the EnduraShield left-over and, no, it's best to not pour this out onto the floor... For the reasons that you noted. :rolleyes:
Curb Painting:
*Curbs. I hope I mentioned this to you... but, an alternative to color matching is picking a slightly darker (or lighter) color for the masonry paint to add a little decorator pop.
Conclusion:
We're super happy that You're super happy!! Your floor/shop looks great and will continue to do so for many, many, years to come!
Thanks again for taking the time to post up, just let us know how much we owe you.

JOKING! ;)
 
Last edited:

CombatNinja

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 24, 2013
Messages
1,456
Good to see a DIY epoxy job come out nice with a happy customer. Most threads here are about issues and complaints.
 
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