Tidy fiberglass insulation install advice

[1190R]

Unfortunately my new shop needs insulation to control temp/humidity. Climate zone 3 marine. 30 x 48 x 16 with 24" bays

I want to do it myself to save $. What advice do you have to keep things looking as shop like and neat as possible while maintaining things exposed? Rolls or batts, stapling advice, etc

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

In my friends basement we sprayed white paint immediately after hanging Batts and lights. Helped a lot with light, as well as no falling fluffs. Worked great till he got a 100 year flood.

 

[1190R]

Thx for that
Trying to keep as much natural wood visible as possible

 

[Zeke]

What is on the outside wall as a vapor barrier? You don't want to trap moisture in the insulation so one side has to breathe. Paper faced stapled looks OK but it's just paper. Foil would be too harsh. unfaced batts are ugly and I'd have to cover that for myself.

Sprayed foam looks like *** to me but I know it works. Foam sheets trimmed neatly might look OK but that's spendy.

Many garage owners here have had this question so I'm sure you'll get some good answers. I like the painted idea in post #2.

Edit: just saw your answer about keeping the wood look. I think insulation and exposed wood are mutually exclusive.

 

[billconner]

Were it mine, unfaced batts and rough sawn pine boards horizontally. Might put black poly on as vapor barrier and better looking in gaps and knot holes.

 

[jack stand]

And you might find out that an insulation contractor can supply and install it somewhere close you buying it. My experience has always been that having it installed was cheaper than doing it myself.

 

[Zeke]

And you might find out that an insulation contractor can supply and install it somewhere close you buying it. My experience has always been that having it installed was cheaper than doing it myself.

True, but the OP is wanting a look. He may very well be aware that installers can do this pretty cheap.

But here's where that does fit in. I had a client that wanted to insulate his garage under the rafters and still see the ties and braces, not to mention the bottom face of the rafters. The company came in with bright yellow batts and installed 90% of it with a special type of fork just stuffing ip up there. They did attach something to keep it there, maybe a line that feeds out of the pole while getting stapled. Job was done in a flash and looked like ***. Note: while I did source the installers, the client insisted on making all of the arrangements and payments to insure I was not getting a cut. Just another **** move we contractors deal with.

The client was unhappy and had me bring drywallers in to cover. Same thing, he still wanted that vaulted ceiling look with a lot of wood exposed. This cost him a small fortune but he was adamant.

So insulation can be installed carefully and artfully but in the end, it is insulation.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

Rolls vs batts. IMO difference is in the lengths required. Cut the insulation (not backing) to fit around wires, boxes and plumbing. Staple to to the sides of the studs (not the faces). Takes a little practice I've never left it exposed. One of my buildings the previous owner left the insulation exposed on the ceiling. He ran wire (bare steel, may have been stainless) every few feet to hold it up. I expect it was put in about a year before I bought and it was noticeably sagging shortly after.

 

[1190R]

Were it mine, unfaced batts and rough sawn pine boards horizontally. Might put black poly on as vapor barrier and better looking in gaps and knot holes.

Would look great but too much $

 

[1190R]

And you might find out that an insulation contractor can supply and install it somewhere close you buying it. My experience has always been that having it installed was cheaper than doing it myself.

Good point. Will check but I've had this done in the past and install was not great

 

[1190R]

True, but the OP is wanting a look.

Yes!

He may very well be aware that installers can do this pretty cheap.

But here's where that does fit in. I had a client that wanted to insulate his garage under the rafters and still see the ties and braces, not to mention the bottom face of the rafters. The company came in with bright yellow batts and installed 90% of it with a special type of fork just stuffing ip up there. They did attach something to keep it there, maybe a line that feeds out of the pole while getting stapled. Job was done in a flash and looked like ***. Note: while I did source the installers, the client insisted on making all of the arrangements and payments to insure I was not getting a cut. Just another **** move we contractors deal with.

The client was unhappy and had me bring drywallers in to cover. Same thing, he still wanted that vaulted ceiling look with a lot of wood exposed. This cost him a small fortune but he was adamant.

So insulation can be installed carefully and artfully

This is what I am asking
How to active careful/artful look

but in the end, it is insulation.

 

[1190R]

Rolls vs batts. IMO difference is in the lengths required. Cut the insulation (not backing) to fit around wires, boxes and plumbing. Staple to to the sides of the studs (not the faces). Takes a little practice I've never left it exposed. One of my buildings the previous owner left the insulation exposed on the ceiling. He ran wire (bare steel, may have been stainless) every few feet to hold it up. I expect it was put in about a year before I bought and it was noticeably sagging shortly after.

Yes!
How to staple to side of stud?

 

[Zeke]

Batts for 24" O.C. studs and rafters comes 22.5" wide with ears or length long tabs. Some put this on the face of the stud as it was intended in order to get a good seal across the wall. The next batt ear is stapled over the one before making the paper 2wice as thick over the studs plus the staples that don't always go home flush. Drywall guys hate this.

Here in SoCal a vapor barrier is of not much importance with so many stucco homes already sealed on the outside with wrap and stucco paper. So the insulation installers push the ears in along side the stud and wang in from the side, This compresses the edges of the batts making it a little less effective.

Here it is stapled on the sides:



This is how the insulation manufactures would like it:



I'd say 95% of it is inside the studs, not on top.

 

[1190R]

Batts for 24" O.C. studs and rafters comes 22.5" wide with ears or length long tabs. Some put this on the face of the stud as it was intended in order to get a good seal across the wall. The next batt ear is stapled over the one before making the paper 2wice as thick over the studs plus the staples that don't always go home flush. Drywall guys hate this.

Here in SoCal a vapor barrier is of not much importance with so many stucco homes already sealed on the outside with wrap and stucco paper. So the insulation installers push the ears in along side the stud and wang in from the side, This compresses the edges of the batts making it a little less effective.

Here it is stapled on the sides:



This is how the insulation manufactures would like it:



I'd say 95% of it is inside the studs, not on top.

Helpful
Thanks Zeke
What length of staple do you recommend?

 

[Zeke]

3/8ths ought to be good for old, hard wood. You can go longer if the wood is new. Or compromise at 7/16ths.

 

[billconner]

Would look great but too much $

rough sawn around me costs less than ply

 

[rayra]

Trying to find better pictures from our previous house, but did the flat-roofed garage ceiling with R19 batts stapled on the bottom edge of the rafters / ceiling joists. Like Zeke's 2nd image, just a continuous span of kraft paper. And had a tough time driving 3/8" staples into 50yr-old lumber.

 

[charbar]

This is all my opinion (it is your shop after all) but why are you wanting to keep the insulation exposed if you are also wanting neat and tidy? Bare insulation in a shop sounds like a not so fun idea to me and looks half-a$$ed. Holes burned in it from welding/grinding/torching, holes ripped in the paper from flying parts etc. Why not cover it with OSB or carsiding or something? Would look much better than bare insulation plus give you multiple places to hang things instead of just on a stud.

 

[rancherbill]

Bare insulation in a shop sounds like a not so fun idea to me and looks half-a$$ed. Holes burned in it from welding/grinding/torching, holes ripped in the paper from flying parts etc.

It makes an excellent mouse house also.

 

[1190R]

3/8ths ought to be good for old, hard wood. You can go longer if the wood is new. Or compromise at 7/16ths.

Helpful
New construction so 7/16ths it is

 

[1190R]

This is all my opinion (it is your shop after all) but why are you wanting to keep the insulation exposed if you are also wanting neat and tidy? Bare insulation in a shop sounds like a not so fun idea to me and looks half-a$$ed. Holes burned in it from welding/grinding/torching, holes ripped in the paper from flying parts etc. Why not cover it with OSB or carsiding or something? Would look much better than bare insulation plus give you multiple places to hang things instead of just on a stud.

Agree but the reason is cost
Project is already way over budget

 

[billconner]

If you will have any permit inspection or if you are concerned about safety, as best I know code doesn't allow the paper to be left exposed. Unfaded and flame retardant poly is a legal option.

 

[Youngandfree]

Yes!
How to staple to side of stud?

Push it in further and staple to the side?

 

[Zeke]

If you will have any permit inspection or if you are concerned about safety, as best I know code doesn't allow the paper to be left exposed. Unfaded and flame retardant poly is a legal option.

True. He has a conundrum. I hate pegboard and it's likely not rated. Neither would be cheap paneling, which is a choice I have made in the past. Old fashioned, but so am I. I can live in a white drywall environment but there's not even an off white wall in my house, It's not a cave by any means, but my garage is.

 

[1190R]

True. He has a conundrum. I hate pegboard and it's likely not rated. Neither would be cheap paneling, which is a choice I have made in the past. Old fashioned, but so am I. I can live in a white drywall environment but there's not even an off white wall in my house, It's not a cave by any means, but my garage is.

Fortunately this is not a problem as I'm getting my final soon, before I insulate

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

Yes!
How to staple to side of stud?

1 Minute mark.

 

[1190R]

1 Minute mark.

Thanks LLST

 

[NUTTSGT]

16' side walls, I would use rolls over batts for less seams. Also, buy an electric staple gun.

I'd also suggest filling the bottom 3" of the wall cavity with expanding foam. It might cost a few dimes but will help seal up the wall at the sill.

It also makes it harder for air to pass through the wall cavity.