Safe Heat for Enclosed Storage Area

[907arcticcat]

Been awhile since I have posted, but need some help figuring out a heating issue in my shop. I have a second home (house and large detached shop) that I use for storage of a vehicle, boat , shop tools and misc. outdoor gear. The property is located in a damp coastal area, with mild winters and low temps around 20. I plan on moving out of the area and want to build a 12' x 12' enclosed heated storage area in the back corner of the shop to store some of the items I don't want to rust, family keepsakes, furniture etc. The shop is fully insulated and has OSB walls and ceiling, but no heat. I will use the existing back exterior corner walls and just add 2 additional 2' x 4' interior walls along with a standard man door. I will insulate the walls and ceiling, plus add OSB to both sides of the walls, plus the ceiling. Lighting and power to the room for heat will also be easy enough. I know it won't take much heat to keep the room around 60 in the winter, so my question really isn't how much heat I need, but finding a safe heat source. Wall heaters have always made me nervous and this will be a place I might not visit for 4-6 months at a time. I want something that first is safe and won't start a fire, but also be economical to install and run.

I would appreciate any help figuring out my dilemma. Thank you

 

[u3b3rg33k]

I haven't had to turn the heat on yet this year, my insulated garage has stayed over 35F. dehumidifier (500W desiccant unit) keeps the rh at 50%.

it may take a LOT of heat to idle it at 60F (location dependent). that's the temp I heat to when I'm out there.

 

[75gmck25]

For a relatively small, well insulated area, I wonder if a portable heat pump would work. You could heat the space in the winter and then use the A/C capability of the heat pump to keep the humidity and temp down in the summer.

 

[couch67]

I would look at radiant floor heating. likely not as efficient as planning it in slab with insulation, and with it being a partial area. But, should be one of the safer options available.

 

[readhead]

One four foot electric baseboard heater would probably do the trick in a space that small.

 

[PoorUB]

Been awhile since I have posted, but need some help figuring out a heating issue in my shop. I have a second home (house and large detached shop) that I use for storage of a vehicle, boat , shop tools and misc. outdoor gear. The property is located in a damp coastal area, with mild winters and low temps around 20. I plan on moving out of the area and want to build a 12' x 12' enclosed heated storage area in the back corner of the shop to store some of the items I don't want to rust, family keepsakes, furniture etc. The shop is fully insulated and has OSB walls and ceiling, but no heat. I will use the existing back exterior corner walls and just add 2 additional 2' x 4' interior walls along with a standard man door. I will insulate the walls and ceiling, plus add OSB to both sides of the walls, plus the ceiling. Lighting and power to the room for heat will also be easy enough. I know it won't take much heat to keep the room around 60 in the winter, so my question really isn't how much heat I need, but finding a safe heat source. Wall heaters have always made me nervous and this will be a place I might not visit for 4-6 months at a time. I want something that first is safe and won't start a fire, but also be economical to install and run.

I would appreciate any help figuring out my dilemma. Thank you

Heat pump for a well insulated 12x12?! A bit overkill.

1,000 watt electric baseboard heater. Just keep the area around it uncluttered so it gets proper air flow. Plus, do you need to keep it at 60F? If you just don't want stuff to freeze 45-50 is plenty.

 

[The Cobbler]

I agree on the baseboard heater . pretty safe and not that hot so fire is not an issue . unless of course the unit fails , but they are very reliable

 

[PoorUB]

unless of course the unit fails

Typical baseboard heater that does not have a fan, a convection heater. Darned near nothing to go wrong.

 

[The Cobbler]

Yes, I realize that. I have never seen or heard of one fail to cause a fire, but I suppose it is possible.

 

[theoldwizard1]

The property is located in a damp coastal area, with mild winters and low temps around 20.

Mini-split. Bonus, it will control your humidity.

I agree on the baseboard heater . pretty safe and not that hot so fire is not an issue . unless of course the unit fails , but they are very reliable

Cheap to install. Expensive to operate. No humidity control.

 

[PoorUB]

Mini-split. Bonus, it will control your humidity.

I like the idea of a mini split, but he needs around 3,000 BTU, pretty much over kill.

As for expense, the baseboard will cost him $25-$30 a month to operate, for the worst months, average is probably much less. A cheap mini split is $1,000. Well over a ten year payback, assuming it never needs repair. Plus a much more complicated device compared to a electric baseboard.

 

[u3b3rg33k]

I like the idea of a mini split, but he needs around 3,000 BTU, pretty much over kill.

As for expense, the baseboard will cost him $25-$30 a month to operate, for the worst months, average is probably much less. A cheap mini split is $1,000. Well over a ten year payback, assuming it never needs repair. Plus a much more complicated device compared to a electric baseboard.

a window shaker heat pump would be the way to go.
they've got a reversing valve and heat strips for when it's below freezing.

 

[theoldwizard1]

a window shaker heat pump would be the way to go.
they've got a reversing valve and heat strips for when it's below freezing.

Just make sure it is a heat pump and not just an A/C unit with a heat strip ! Even below average heat pumps areore efficient than a resistance heat strip in in the 40F-60F range.

 

[u3b3rg33k]

Just make sure it is a heat pump and not just an A/C unit with a heat strip ! Even below average heat pumps areore efficient than a resistance heat strip in in the 40F-60F range.

most (all?) of the window units that have reversing valves still don't have defrost capabilities. sadly. this extends even to PTACs in hotels.

 

[907arcticcat]

I appreciate all the opinions and advise. I am looking forward to closing in the space this winter. I may use the room for small CNC projects and an area to do small projects during the colder months until I move out of the area. Thanks again!

 

[ToolmakerB-rad]

You may want to look into an oil filled radiator type heater. I have used them in the past, they are safe to use and do a good job. You would have do the math to figure energy consumption, dependent on the KW/hr cost in your area. They typically have three settings, 500, 900, and 1500 watts. Good luck!

 

[ipgenie]

I built a 12x14 loft office this winter out inside of my shop. It has low ceilings but is otherwise similar to what you have probably already finished framing.

I used a small oil filled radiator type heater like ToolMaker suggested to keep the space comfortable. On low it had no trouble keeping the room warm all winter here in Idaho, even with some of the inside facing walls not having insulation yet.
Our power rates are low here, not sure what yours are, but it averages about $0.03/hr while running and it cycles off a lot.
I like these heaters because there are no moving parts and nothing on the exterior gets hot enough to be an ignition source. Probably the safest of the electric heaters.

 

[Jackfre]

Rinnai EX-08. 3-8kbtu. Pricey, but simple install and vent included , programmable stat can maintain down to 38*f. Cool to touch. Will re-start after power outage