It's why I stopped buying Tone, most are made in Taiwan, and for the price(they aren't cheap) you can buy a real Japanese-made brand. It definitely hurts when you see the same(similar) item for a cheaper from example Blackhawk/proto for 23$Ahhh folks secretly like being lied too, buy a Nepros or Koken extra long flexhead and the price alone will tell u where it's made. But TONE tickles the soul. One feels like they are buying a high quality tool with a price that feels even better. But deep down in the depths of their bowels they know that Amazon $39 price tag that includes delivery is way to silly to be true. But it resembles the real thing, it kinda looks like it and it's absolutely not from HF or China. I'm happy to let those enjoy a little ignorant bliss, it's not hurting anyone. I nearly bought some genuine Bose speakers out of a white van one time.
The facts I posted are correct, you are misunderstanding the documents. The labelling requirements apply to all products sold in the US. While the specific examples refer to government procurement, those examples are the de facto standards companies use, since they are objective standards that can be referenced.It dictates what the Gov and its partners can buy to abide by the law. So an item that is 50% made in the USA will qualify as Made in the USA for "procurement purposes".
no need to discuss this. I have current experience in GOV contracts and procurement, especially military contracts, it is one of the biggest issues we are currently facing, especially with aircraft parts. but doesn't matter its off topic and we will never reach a consensus. A misunderstanding of this document is what leads to companies getting slapped with fines and such. in the topic of Japan, they have weird rules with their products, one can stamp a product from Japan for the Japanese market, but I feel like that's disingenuous.The facts I posted are correct, you are misunderstanding the documents. The labelling requirements apply to all products sold in the US. While the specific examples refer to government procurement, those examples are the de facto standards companies use, since they are objective standards that can be referenced.
If you want to continue the discussion, let's take it to a more appropriate thread. I'm always happy to help others learn and share my knowledge and experience, but it had drifted off-topic for this thread.


I remember my father having Yokohama Super Diggers on his LandCruiser in the 90's growing up. That's a super nice little haul, those Anex Torx look grippy, the Tone T-handles look way similar to those made by Sunflag which are pretty nice. Would love to shop at Factory Gear one day in Japan, I think they do tool stores better than anyone.I just spend 3 weeks around Tokyo/Yokohama area. I needed some tools to service my mountain bike suspension so my purchases reflect that.
Got myself some 'Asahi' Crowsfoot, Koken spinner ratchets, KTC Electric Torque Wrench, swivel head ratchet and screwdriver set, and Tone mini 1/4" and 3/8" ratchets from Factory Gear Tokyo and some of it from Factory Gear Yokohama.
Ko-Ken Z-series 1/4" semi-deep socket set I bought from World Import Tools.
'Eight' long allen keys, Tohnichi torque screwdrives and Pink Engineer Neji-Saurus pliers from akiba-kougu.jp. Love the place.
Other Engineer pliers from some random electronics store in Akihabara.
Anex T6 and T8 drivers and vessel bits from Tokyu Hands.
Tone T-handle Allen keys from Astro Products.
Old Mitutoyo Micrometer I bought from one Act tool location.
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I've just watched this video. Bzeug agrees with me that the in and out movement is excessive, but mine was smooth and not at all "crunchy".I have this one a couple of months and have only lightly used it. It is nicely made and finished as you would expect from Vessel. My only slightly adverse comment is that the in and out movement of a bit is slightly more than that in some of the visually similar but unbranded bit holders that I have.
Go watch some YT videos Bzeug did on various extensions. The Vessel ones have a bit to much play/wobble for my liking. Anex makes similar ones that are a bit better but not perfect. They also make heavy duty extensions suitable for 40v impact driver use.On the Vessel Bit Extension holders, EXH Series, - have this in my new next order cart
Is there anything better in the world of 1/4 bit extensions. Granted this like bits are consumables so they do get used and then tossed once slop in the driving comes into play
Interesting.
I found this on amazon.jp concerning VAT. I don't see the US listed for additional VAT.
Do you have a source that shows where they collect VAT from US customers?
Tax on Low-Value Imported Goods (LVIG) - Amazon Customer Service
Amazon.co.jp is obligated to calculate, collect, and remit Sales Taxes including Value Added Tax (VAT), Goods and Services Tax (GST), and others, on low-value imported goods (LVIG) classified as taxable for each relevant jurisdiction.www.amazon.co.jp


Makes me wonder - is there any made-in-japan multitool?
Yep, you can swap out the rings on all the nepros tools that have them. I installed red ones on all my nepros tools. Stick with the black ones, if you don't want to see dirt. I found the smaller the ring, the softer/less durable they are. I found a plastic iFixit spudger pointed end was the safest way to remove/install them.didn't know you could do that!![]()
Not sure you'll find what you're looking for, but here's the catalog with all of the different torsion bits and the part numbers.Anyone know where to source Vessel Ball Torsion bits in +1 and +3 in packs of preferably quantity 5-15? Length is not really an issue (let the jokes commence) as long as they're 50mm or more. I have two 25pc packs of +1x50 and +3x50 and two +1/+2/+3 x50 five pc assortment packs in my Amazon cart right now.
They have +3x90 in five pc assortment packs, so I know they make these too.
rick carpenter said:Anyone know where to source Vessel ...
Not sure you'll find what you're looking for, but here's the catalog with all of the different torsion bits and the part numbers.
Thanks y'all. I'm trying to upgrade my impact bit kit from SAE to all Vessel if possible, and the Tatara flyer covers the bits I'd want. I can buy +2's in various lengths & quantities, but fewer options for +1's and +3's. Guess I'll go with a few of the 5pc packs, and as many more +2 lengths as I need. @four.cycle, Bowers tools is one of the Amazon US shippers and I'm looking at his web site too. Thanks again.I would send an email to [email protected] and ask him to get you a quote. Give him ALL the specifics in an email. (He doesn't have time for phones.)
Be sure to note in the email that you live in the State of Texas.
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To each and every trade/craftsman there is a unique set of tools. I’d definitely consider brushes as tools. Just like I consider knives tools for chefs. If you need to use it to do a job then it’s definitely a tool.Kinda stretching the boundaries of the definition of "tools" (brushes are tools?) but I thought some of you might appreciate these pics from a high end art store in Tokyo called "Pigment Tokyo". The 2 pics with the big glass jars and samples in frames are animal parts that are bought dried and ground up to make different natural hide glues. The wall of colored jars are raw granular watercolor pigments that can be purchased by the gram.
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Kinda stretching the boundaries of the definition of "tools" (brushes are tools?) but I thought some of you might appreciate these pics from a high end art store in Tokyo called "Pigment Tokyo". The 2 pics with the big glass jars and samples in frames are animal parts that are bought dried and ground up to make different natural hide glues. The wall of colored jars are raw granular watercolor pigments that can be purchased by the gram.
A fascinating place!Kinda stretching the boundaries of the definition of "tools" (brushes are tools?) but I thought some of you might appreciate these pics from a high end art store in Tokyo called "Pigment Tokyo". The 2 pics with the big glass jars and samples in frames are animal parts that are bought dried and ground up to make different natural hide glues. The wall of colored jars are raw granular watercolor pigments that can be purchased by the gram.
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Is there a way to identify the year of manufacture of a Koken product?
I believe they all have a 4 digit code, first is the week of the year, second is the year. At least zeal ratchets do. For example 1210 twelfth week of 2010
I don’t have many Ko-ken tools and it’s all Z-EAL, but they seem to have a three-digit date code. I’m guessing it’s the year followed by the month. So a typical number for recent produciton would be 236 (the number on my 3725Z ratchet).
For the third digit, beyond 9 (September) they seem to use J, K, and L to represent October, November, and December respectively.
Have none of you seen this dating system then? Is it fairly new or Japan only or something? I bought my stuff directly from Japan.
There doesn’t seem to be an A, just J, K, and L like I said.
Not that I understand your complaint, since what would be the problem if A meant January?
The benefit of using a digit or letter for the month, rather than letters only, is that at least for January to September you get an intuitive number that we all understand as a month (e.g. 8 is August without thinking; but if I said H, you’d be counting the alphabet on your fingers to translate it to a number to link it to a month). But obviously our decimal counting system doesn’t stretch to 12 months in one digit, so we can’t use numbers only either.
How would that be an improvement? Because it resolves weeks rather than months? (But at the expense of useful year precision.)
All the codes on my recently acquired Ko-ken tools are 22x or 23x (except one socket that is 17x). Your suggestion would put everything I own as manufactured in weeks 2x or 3x or, even less likely, in weeks 22 and 23 of years stretching back a decade. So clearly the first two digits are the year.
If anyone can produce a three-digit Ko-ken date code that has a letter other than J, K, or L, or a letter in any position other than the third, I’ll reconsider my guesswork. Because it is just guesswork. I’ve not read anything about Ko-ken’s date codes and only own a small amount of Ko-ken tools.
Ko-ken has been using a three-digit date code at least from the 90's.
As for the use of letters, @Samuel D was close.
October = O
November = J
If November is J, like "Jack", then you'd think December would be Q for "Queen", but "Q" can be easily mistaken for "O" so they decided on:
December = K
My oldest socket is from 1967 and they appear to have been using a 2-digit date code: "67" so, just the year.
Also note the Ko-ken "no-hyphen-logo"
I wasn't there, but I do know that they were there and doing exactly that.
