Barndominium Wall girt nail size?

[airman89]

I’ve been read up on the nails sizes that are recommended and I’ve read 3” .131 up to a 20 penny 4” nail.

I’ve been shooting 3 ring shank 3-1/4” .131 nails into each post. The girts are face nailed to the posts. I’ll also be stick framing 2x6s inside the posts because I’ll have a second floor.

Should I be alright with the nails I’ve been using or should I change now before I get too far?

Thanks.

 

[Mattilac]

That guy RR Buildings on YouTube likes to use 20 penny nails to put his post frame buildings together. Seems a more appropriate size to me but I don't really know.

 

[airman89]

Yeah some posts started making me second guess my choice of nail. I thought with the insides of the post being stick frame, the walls will be pretty stout so the 16d nails would suffice.

Is it possible to just do away with the girts since Ill be stick framing too?

 

[Hank11]

Keep on with what you have and if it feels better, make room for a couple of big boys in your nailing pattern. Stitch everything up and then go back and hand nail the big ones.

 

[Hank11]

If you’re building stud walls in between the posts you could skip the girts, but it won’t hurt to do both.

 

[larry_g]

Are you using treated posts? If so are you using nails spec'ed to withstand the treating method? My building plans spec'ed 20p galvanized nails into the treated posts..

lg
no neat sig line

 

[airman89]

If you’re building stud walls in between the posts you could skip the girts, but it won’t hurt to do both.

I’ve really been debating that. I’ve only got one 60’ wall up but I would be a pain to go back through and tear all the girts off. I had planned on keeping the girts for some extra insulation. I was going to use foam board in between the girts. Thanks for the info!

Are you using treated posts? If so are you using nails spec'ed to withstand the treating method? My building plans spec'ed 20p galvanized nails into the treated posts..

lg
no neat sig line

Yes I’m using treated posts then treated bottom 3 ply laminated on gable sides. Yes the nails are galvanized for treated lumber. I had thought the ring shank .131 nails would work so I had bought a Ridgid battery framing nailer.. if I go with the 4” 20d nails is there a nailer that will drive them? I’m all for hammer and nail but they’re 18 foot walls and I’m by myself with no lift equipment or scaffolding lol. I’ve been climbing, nailer in one hand, 2x6x16 in my other.

 

[Chris705]

Metal siding vs. wood sheathing…. That will help determine if you need to keep the girts.

 

[readhead]

The nailing is all part of the shear diaphragm. Do you have any specifications for this building to go by?

 

[airman89]

Metal siding vs. wood sheathing…. That will help determine if you need to keep the girt

It will have OSB sheathing and then metal siding.

 

[Chris705]

So the answer is no you don’t have to have girts, you can use vertical studs in lieu of girts…. However before going with only vertical studs as support for the sheathing/siding bear in mind post frame construction relies on the posts as the foundation, wall support and roof support. Unless you frost protect your slab it potentially move up and down with the heaving soils. If you bear the studs on the slab there will potentially be movement all the way up to and including your roof…. It’s tough to combine structural systems. I suppose it could be done if you make sure to frost protect the slab. The other option is the use of bookshelf girts supported by the posts.

 

[airman89]

Thanks for the great information! When I poured the concrete, for the post support I had 24” diameter and a bit over 50” deep with a 3ft wide perimeter, 6” thick with 1/2” rebar tied to rebar cages in the holes. Oh and the brackets were wet set Sturdi wall brackets.

With this in mind, would this eliminate the movement through the studs being monolithic pour with rebar being connected to the post supporting concrete? I will still plan on frost protecting the slab.

 

[Chris705]

I wouldn’t want to let my studs and frost battle it out with the posts and pier footings in my area of weather. Frost will win over time. Either one losing is a problem. As you stated your slab will be protected.

 

[PugetDude]

I would look at as the the girts supporting the building skin and the studs supporting the interior skin.