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Car Rotisserie Construction

N_Jay

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Nov 1, 2016
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I am looking at building a car rotisserie starting with a pair of engine stands.
The car in question is small and light (Porsche 914), and if it works well may get used for other small cars.

My question is how to solve the issue that engine stands tilt upwards slightly, where as I need the rotisserie really needs the two end 'bearings' to be parallel the ground.

My first thought was to cut and reweld, or cut partially, bend and brace the upright of each stand to make the fix.

A second though that came to me is to raise the rear by spacing down the rear wheels to make the adjustment.
I am not sure how much I would need to raise it. I just go the stands so I can put one together and get measurements.
My concern with this is even if adding blocking to the rear wheels is easy, the wheels will now be sitting on swivels that are not parallels the floor.
This would make then 'favor' one direction, or worse yet not turn at all.

OK, now tell me I am crazy, or make some great suggestions.

"And Discuss!"
 
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larry4406

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Here is a link to the rotisserie I built from scratch, vs your adapting 2 engine stands. Maybe useful in your quest.
 

rmack898

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We did exactly what you’re talking about with 2 engine stands to put a Suzuki Samurai on a rotisserie. The engine stands we used had no tilt in them, the tubes were parallel to the ground.

We made some steel tabs and bolted them to the body, welded some 2” square tube to the tabs, and welded a piece of pipe to the tube. Lifted the body up and slid the engine stands into the pipes and we had a low cost rotisserie.

Engine stands are cheap, look for some with no tilt or cut the tube off what you have and reweld them on straight.
 

larry4406

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The axis of rotation needs to be in-line (think bent crank).

Ideally the body CG is in-line with the axis of rotation for one handed spin. Otherwise the pendulum effect takes over and it can be difficult to rotate and hold at a certain position.
 
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N_Jay

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I have looked around and have not seen any that are reasonably priced and level.
Obviously the slant is to keep the rotating tube from walking out of the frame and dropping a big block on your toe.

I would ask for links to level ones, but already bought the ones I will be using.

As for leveling the ones I have, if I go the welding route, I can either cut the tubes off, and weld in a new piece of pipe set level.

OR . . . I can make a cut in the back of the upright, level the tube, and weld in a U-shaped gusset over the cut. (Seems like less welding and easier to get both stands even.

As for the car, most people have had good luck simply bolting a cross bar to the bumper mounts front and back.
They are apparently square to each other and very close to the CoG.
 

no704

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If a bolt together stand, put shims between where the front leg bolts to the vertical.
 

The Cobbler

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if you want to save the engine stands to still be usable, make 2 plates up that fasten to the engine mounts that compensate for the angle , that also are in line with each other height wise
 

WildBill

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I did this a long time ago and just cut some angled plates for between the stands and the bar going across the bumper mounts.
 

isb cornbinder

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I made a good rotisserie. More information later when I get home
Home again!
First off, let me say this, DO NOT USE ENGINE STANDS. You mentioned the situation of alignment. This is very important and the first of you problems. Second: You must have a "guide-bar" between the two ends to keep them from twisting to one side.
I would never rely on some imported engine stand. How do you verify the quality of the materials?
I scratch built my rotisserie from steel I bought at METAL SUPERMAKET. I used hydraulic cylinders, from PRINCESS AUTO, to raise and lower the pivot points, on each end.
To assist in the rotation I modified a HALDEX airbrake slack adjuster. The adjuster has a 22/1 worm gear reduction. Because of the worm gear action the rotisserie stops and stays where I stop it.
I will post pictures. If tis brings questions I will try to answer them.
There was a stupid suggestion suggesting t was risking a roll-over. This is very unlikely because the load is centered on the pivot points. The balanced load can be turned with one hand. The 22/1 reduction makes rotating the unit two fingers easy.
I put it all on ALL-GOOD casters.
 

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N_Jay

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if you want to save the engine stands to still be usable, make 2 plates up that fasten to the engine mounts that compensate for the angle , that also are in line with each other height wise
How do you rotate?
 
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N_Jay

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Home again!
First off, let me say this, DO NOT USE ENGINE STANDS. You mentioned the situation of alignment. This is very important and the first of you problems. Second: You must have a "guide-bar" between the two ends to keep them from twisting to one side.
I would never rely on some imported engine stand. How do you verify the quality of the materials?
I scratch built my rotisserie from steel I bought at METAL SUPERMAKET. I used hydraulic cylinders, from PRINCESS AUTO, to raise and lower the pivot points, on each end.
To assist in the rotation I modified a HALDEX airbrake slack adjuster. The adjuster has a 22/1 worm gear reduction. Because of the worm gear action the rotisserie stops and stays where I stop it.
I will post pictures. If tis brings questions I will try to answer them.
There was a stupid suggestion suggesting t was risking a roll-over. This is very unlikely because the load is centered on the pivot points. The balanced load can be turned with one hand. The 22/1 reduction makes rotating the unit two fingers easy.
I put it all on ALL-GOOD casters.
That is a beautiful machine, but more than I want to invest.
I am not worried about the stands failing as they are rated at 1000 LB, and the car is hardly over 1800 with engine.
There is also a lot less torque on the hard since the car is supported form both ends.
 

isb cornbinder

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When I get them out of the box I will see if there is an easy fix
I think you are trying for the Darwin Award. There is no easy fix for doing this right. Maybe you do not want to spend the money, like I did. I understand. My rotisserie cost me $1250 for everything in. That price will be much now, years later.
I was at a local tool store and they were offering a really nice imported rotisserie for less than the cost of my materials.
 

WildBill

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You can also make a simple wooden one for a light car, did that for a Datsun 240.
 

larry4406

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You can also make a simple wooden one for a light car, did that for a Datsun 240.
And here is a wooden one for a 914..

1703196394088.jpeg

 
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N_Jay

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I think you are trying for the Darwin Award. There is no easy fix for doing this right. Maybe you do not want to spend the money, like I did. I understand. My rotisserie cost me $1250 for everything in. That price will be much now, years later.
I was at a local tool store and they were offering a really nice imported rotisserie for less than the cost of my materials.

I have also see a lot of picture of home made rotisseries that use engine stands or look a whole lot worse than most cheap engine stands with stories of success.
Once I get the tubes level, keeping them inline should be easy with 2x2 (or so) steel tube running between the stands.
I don't think this is anywhere near a Darwin project. I have seen a whole lot fo cheap Chinese engine stands and have yet to see a broken one.

Its not like I am using stacked cinder blocks for jack stands.
 

californiamilleghia

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I would check 914world or Pelican parts forum for ideas and post that you are looking to buy one ,

After a 914 owner uses it once it is probably in his way and he would be happy to pass it on ,

Good Luck
 

WildBill

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I would check 914world or Pelican parts forum for ideas and post that you are looking to buy one ,

After a 914 owner uses it once it is probably in his way and he would be happy to pass it on ,

Good Luck
I'm not sure, every 914 owner I know including me ends up with a bunch of them.
 
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isb cornbinder

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This is less expensive than my cost of materials.
"I have yet to see one". Raises the question, How many collapsed stands were there that you did not see?
That is a beautiful machine, but more than I want to invest.
I am not worried about the stands failing as they are rated at 1000 LB, and the car is hardly over 1800 with engine.
There is also a lot less torque on the hard since the car is supported form both ends.
You need to understand the difference between falling over and collapsing. Without a slightly complicated method of centering the weight, the stands will fall over when the load is rotated. The weight/load capacity of two stands is very close to or less than the weight of your intended victim car.
 

no704

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I made one years ago for scanning a body in white minivan. From scratch using 3”I’d roller bearings x2 per end and mounting plates that were like a vernier to center the load. Guy scanning the car said it was the best he ever used.
 

TimeWarpF100

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That is a beautiful machine, but more than I want to invest.
I am not worried about the stands failing as they are rated at 1000 LB, and the car is hardly over 1800 with engine.
There is also a lot less torque on the hard since the car is supported form both ends.
Those junk china stands rated for 1000 each are really 300lb stands! Put 1800 lbs on them and you will wish you had not . .
 
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N_Jay

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Thank you all for the concern.

Seriously, I have put engines on much cheaper stands without issue.
If anything the stress from the engine is because it is only supported from on e end, putting a lot of force on the head to vertical joint and the vertical piece to the base.
With the car suspended from both ends, most of the force is straight down.

Assuming the mount is fairly close to the midline (weight wise), why would rotating
cause it to fall over?

The car will be probably around 1200 or so with engine tank and interior out.


But just to make sure I am not fooling myself, anyone hear of a rotisserie falling over or failing?
 

Daveo

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Couple more pics
 

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N_Jay

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Saw that idea. Certainly less expensive but not practical in my shop.
(Too much other stuff around it.)
 
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N_Jay

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Hu???
You need the length of the car and probably 2 1/2 times it's width in floor space.

With the rotisserie I just need the length and with plus a few feet.

Edit: I see it is on rollers.
Now that is an interesting solution.

I would need to anchor the rollers, then only work in that one spot.

Rotisserie on wheels lets me move the car as needed.
 

Daveo

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You two are WAY over thinking this.... My idea takes up no length whatsoever. The length of that body and the rotisserie is under it, not extending out of the front or rear. The width of the body is around 6 ft and the hoops are 7ft. Then it spins in place, (see the very first pic I posted) so it takes up 7 ft of floor space then zero on the length of the body.

So lets re-cap, it takes up 6 inches on each side of the body and nothing to the front or rear....

Trust me, Im working out of a 24x24 garage...
 
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Daveo

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Yes, I see .
How do you anchor the rollers
No need....Thats the beauty. Move it where you need. Its not rolling off. One guy can "pick" it up off the rollers and move if needed...
 
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SM Racing

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I built one a while back. It now doubles as a gantry crane. I built two triangle frames. They are tall enough to fully rotate the car without hitting the ground or the "cross bar". I originally designed it to use a full length 2x2 square tubing to stabilize both ends, but ended up just putting the short feet. The nice thing with the long cross bar tying the ends together, I could tow it up on a trailer and off to a blaster, painter, powder coater, etc. With the cross bar out I would have two flat frames to stack against the wall.
Later last year I needed a gantry crane to lift a Land Cruiser body, so I removed the two 2x2 receiver segments on the top and built some reinforced pads to mount my I beam. Now the stubby stabilizer legs are always in the way of moving the crane around. So I need to remove them. I saved the 2x2 receivers and just need to mount them to a plate so I can turn this back into the rotissiere.
 

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N_Jay

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Interesting, in putting the pivot in the center of the triangle end.
Most simple designs I have seen show the pivot point on the top of a much shorter triangle.

Even as small as the 914 is, I think I need to raise the pivot. (Measurements yet to be taken)

This is going to be an interesting project.

Still wondering if the width of the wheelbase is insufficient?
 

Riverrat

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I made my own rotisserie for building my Datsun 510 rally car. I was able to build it using steel I found at the landfill. My only expense was casters and fasteners. The car is mounted to the rotisserie using the bumper bracket locations. I ran a string line along the rocker panels to establish the centerline of the pivot points on each end. Pay attention to the clearance you will have when the car rotates to it's lowest point. I pin the rotisserie in position when I'm working on the car.
 

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N_Jay

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510 is a great little car.
A we built one at the shop I hung out when I was in highschool.
The guy who owned it later was a college roommate for a while. (Still a good friend).
914 is maybe a smidge wider but a lot lower, and somewhat lighter I would think.

I think I have a plan with the engine stands being mostly a solid platform for the casters, and the uprights being simple triangles that bolt to the engine stands.

I have to get them out of the box, but if I recall the pictures they each have 4 swivel casters.
I can put a bar to hold them in line into the end of each stand.
 
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