Right Hand circular saw

[joe_pinehill1]

I bought the M12 2530-20 5 3/8 circular saw. Its the first right hand saw I've owned or used. It took me a little time to get oriented on blade position with respect to the cutting line, and moving the saw and which side of the line the blade was on. Its a nice saw, good complement to the M18 circular saw.

 

[Theronswanson]

I've got one too. It's a great saw with a lot of power for what it is.

 

[Rc_Guy]

I bought the M12 2530-20 5 3/8 circular saw. Its the first right hand saw I've owned or used. It took me a little time to get oriented on blade position with respect to the cutting line, and moving the saw and which side of the line the blade was on. Its a nice saw, good complement to the M18 circular saw.

Aren’t most circular saws made for the right hand? I have used them for 43 years and have always used it with my right hand.

 

[kaymccampbell]

Aren’t most circular saws made for the right hand? I have used them for 43 years and have always used it with my right hand.

Most circular saws, excepting worm drive, and a couple others are awkward ****. I prefer saws like the one above, but they're hard to find in cheap corded lightweight versions. I clamp the board and use the ****** saw with my left hand, or hold the board with my right and the saw in my left.

 

[Wamsutta]

By "right-hand circular saw" you mean the blade on the right side of the motor correct?

 

[rooster59]

Just be ambidextrous and this stuff won’t matter.

 

[jives]

The M12 2530 has the blade on the left side of the sole plate, just like my Makita cordless (motor on the right, blade on the left). The M18 2732 has the blade on the right side, just like my ancient corded Skilsaw. Both have advantages and disadvantages, and require different approaches to viewing the sight line and maintaining control, particularly when trimming off the end of a board.

 

[Beemer]

I hate my M12 circular saw. Just cross cutting a few 2x4s and it stalls and overheats. Just about useless.
All my other M12 tools are great but this was a mistake. I'd feel guilty selling it so it will probably go to the recycling center to make room on the shelf.

 

[bcradio]

I hate my M12 circular saw. Just cross cutting a few 2x4s and it stalls and overheats. Just about useless.
All my other M12 tools are great but this was a mistake. I'd feel guilty selling it so it will probably go to the recycling center to make room on the shelf.

Definitely go fuel next time. Mine has no trouble doing what you want

 

[Beemer]

Definitely go fuel next time. Mine has no trouble doing what you want

It is a fuel, 2530-20 with 5 3/8", 24 tooth carbide thin kerf blade and XC 4.0 Ah battery.
Maybe I'll try the cheapie minimal tooth framing blade before sending it on it's way.

Based on reviews I am thinking of trying Ryobi 18v 6 1/2".

 

[jonshonda]

Just be ambidextrous and this stuff won’t matter.

That really doesn't solve the issue though if you think about it. My brain works this way, but maybe I am wrong.

I want the weight of the saw (aka the motor side or the wide part of the base) to be on the piece I am keeping, which lets the drop fall away whilst keeping the saw square/flat on the stationary piece you keep. So let's say you are cutting a 2x4 with a worm drive or the saw the OP referenced, you hold the saw with your right hand, and the piece you are keeping with your left. The problem with that is that the heavy side of the saw is on the drop, which means you really need to make a conscience effort to keep the narrowest part of the base (opposite the motor) flat on the workpiece while the drop falls away. If you want the heavy side of the saw on the work piece, you would be cutting with the saw blade to the left of the cut line, which puts the blade between you and the line which is a pain IMHO.

So then lets talk about a traditional circular saw with the motor left of the blade. In order to see the cut line correctly (blade on the left of the cut line unless you want to take the line) you need to be holding the work piece with your right hand, saw with you left. But again the heavy side of the saw is on the drop, so you need to fight the weight of the saw to keep it flat on the work piece. It is also kicking all the sawdust out at you.

The only method I've found that makes sense is a traditional circular saw in the right hand, work piece in the left hand. But the visibility always seems to be less then ideal in this setup when looking past the motor and adjustments to see the blade position when starting a cut.

 

[Montauket]

Have to say, I picked up an M18 Fuel 2730-20 and am kind of digging the left side blade at the moment. Time will tell.

 

[jar944]

Maybe I'm special but I prefer the standard blade right sidewinder, in my right hand, on the non offcut side.

 

[RAS61]

I like the blade on the left for cutting sheet goods, mostly plywood, sightline on the cut much better for a righty. The blade on the right side is better for cutting 2x lumber to length with a speed square, but I rarely do that with a C-saw and instead usually use a powered mitre box. If you were doing framing I think you'd prefer a right side blade

 

[manwithtools]

There is a place for both. I really like the left side blade for trimming deck boards flush to framing for instance. I like having the shoe of the saw on the non waste side of the cut as jar944 said. Sheet goods get the track saw treatment these days. For framing I'll usually use a saw with the blade on the right. I've got both and many times I'll have both saws at hand for a project and grab the one that feels most appropriate for the cut.

 

[Renegade1LI]

Back in the day, porter cable gave you a choice in their corded saws, left or right. I got rid of the m12 saw, really only good for trim.

 

[kbuhagiar]

I used to hate using pulling out and using those heavy corded 7 1/4" circular saws.

I was recently gifted a Craftsman 19.2V 5 1/2" saw.
You guys are gonna laugh, but I swear it's the best circular saw I've ever owned.
Easy to handle, feels good in my hand, and once I figured out a way to override that annoying switch safety latch, it's a dream to use.

Of course, I don't use it everyday, so I have no delusions about it being a work tool, but for my purposes it's great.

 

[AEAdam]

Every carpenter I know or have seen on YouTube uses a circular saw with the motor to the right of the blade.

There are uses for saws with blades on the other side. Rafters, plywood, bench top work. Most track saws are left hand operated.

Here’s the basic process I taught my sons:
You pull out your speed square out of your left hand pouch with your left hand and lay it on the work. You pull your tape with your right hand and move the square under the tape to the desired measurement. Then holding the speed square steady, you stow your tape, grab your pencil and mark a line.

Ditch the pencil, leave the square, get your saw with your right hand, line it up with the pencil line. Then bring the speed square to the saw‘s base with your left hand to guide the saw square. That’s how it’s done.

I have a chop saw on my job site, but still use this basic carpentry technique 100 times a day. Chop saw is really not faster. I do sometimes use it for framing, but really mostly for trim,

 

[rooster59]

So then lets talk about a traditional circular saw with the motor left of the blade. In order to see the cut line correctly (blade on the left of the cut line unless you want to take the line) you need to be holding the work piece with your right hand, saw with you left. But again the heavy side of the saw is on the drop, so you need to fight the weight of the saw to keep it flat on the work piece. It is also kicking all the sawdust out at you.

The only method I've found that makes sense is a traditional circular saw in the right hand, work piece in the left hand. But the visibility always seems to be less then ideal in this setup when looking past the motor and adjustments to see the blade position when starting a cut.

I may be misreading what you are saying. There should be a window cut-out on the front inside of the blade guard. You can see the leading edge of the blade make first contact with the wood, looking at the left side of the blade on a right handed saw.

 

[71goldss]

I used to hate using pulling out and using those heavy corded 7 1/4" circular saws.

I was recently gifted a Craftsman 19.2V 5 1/2" saw.
You guys are gonna laugh, but I swear it's the best circular saw I've ever owned.
Easy to handle, feels good in my hand, and once I figured out a way to override that annoying switch safety latch, it's a dream to use.

Of course, I don't use it everyday, so I have no delusions about it being a work tool, but for my purposes it's great.

No snickers here!

I love my Craftsman 7 1/4” C3 saw, and I use it probably 10 times more than my corded Makita. Plus, the C3 is left side blade, which I prefer, and the Makita is right side blade. The Makita is a great saw, but I just prefer to use the C3. I’m just a diy’er, so longevity hasn’t been an issue.

I had a chance to pick up a second 7 1/4“ C3 saw at a Sears Outlet shortly before they all closed. Wasn’t sure if I’d ever need a second one, and I didn’t want to drop $50 on another tool I may never use. I still don’t need another one, but I‘m kicking myself now anyway.

 

[joe_pinehill1]

I should have been clearer, the blade is on the left side of the motor. Its different than other saws I've used.

 

[dscheidt]

Every carpenter I know or have seen on YouTube uses a circular saw with the motor to the right of the blade.

Around here (chicago), framers are mostly sidewinder users. There are plenty of skil-style blade left saws around, but blade right are the majority.

 

[dnschmidt]

This is an argument that has gone on at least since the invention of the Skilsaw 77. Back home in Pittsburgh sidewinders were all anybody ever used or even saw. Out here in the West the blade left worm drives are omnipresent. It's a regional thing.

 

[jonshonda]

I may be misreading what you are saying. There should be a window cut-out on the front inside of the blade guard. You can see the leading edge of the blade make first contact with the wood, looking at the left side of the blade on a right handed saw.

Yeah you are picking up what I am putting down. Maybe I just need to hold the Milwaukee M18 Fuel (the saw I want to get) and see what the sight lines are like. Online pics don't paint a pretty picture though.

 

[jar944]

This is an argument that has gone on at least since the invention of the Skilsaw 77. Back home in Pittsburgh sidewinders were all anybody ever used or even saw. Out here in the West the blade left worm drives are omnipresent. It's a regional thing.

This

Also sidewinders are right blade/right hand saws. Blade left puts the saw on the off cut side, and the sharp spinny bit next to your fingers when cutting framing in the traditional way as a right handed person.

 

[txvwnut]

Based on reviews I am thinking of trying Ryobi 18v 6 1/2".

I have said Ryobi and am not really impressed. I‘m on my second one and it had the same issues as the first one I had. The blade is not square to the shoe and you won‘t notice it until you use a speed square to get that perfect cut and it’s kind of under powered. I‘m running a thin kerf general purpose blade in mine so maybe that has something to do with the cut power in dimensional lumber but it does kind of struggle in thicker plywood as well.

 

[Beemer]

I have said Ryobi and am not really impressed. I‘m on my second one and it had the same issues as the first one I had. The blade is not square to the shoe and you won‘t notice it until you use a speed square to get that perfect cut and it’s kind of under powered. I‘m running a thin kerf general purpose blade in mine so maybe that has something to do with the cut power in dimensional lumber but it does kind of struggle in thicker plywood as well.

Well, that stinks.
Lack of power sounds like my M12 that doesn't put in the effort that I want.
It's sounding like there may not be a battery powered alternative to corded.