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Mold in new pole barn

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Jan 4, 2024
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So we just had a 40x60 pole barn put up on October 17,2023. We told the contractor that we would like a ceiling but we wouldn’t be putting in a concrete floor or insulating for a year or so. He suggested we put the ceiling up while he is there with the lift. So we agreed to have him add that to the build. The day before he was to build he asked us if we wanted him to tyvek the barn. He said that he knew we wanted to insulate it at some point and he thought it would be better to have the tyvek on, We agreed. So we went to the barn to check on it and there’s a good amount of mold everywhere. Come to find out the contractor tyvek around the perlins which left the barn with no way to breathe. I have contacted the contractor and all he has said was he has never heard of anything like that happening and he’d call of couple places. And now he won’t get back to me. Is he responsible? And what could have caused this? Is it because of not having ventilation?
 

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Sweetcorn

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Is that water on those ceiling panels? Can't tell on phone if it is that or some kind of texture...

If so, holy ****.

Are you running a hot tub in there?

You mentioned you don't have concrete in there yet, but is there any kind of vapor barrier on or under the stone/dirt floor?
 

jack stand

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Nothing to do with the Lowes housewrap that should help your eventuall f/g insulation's performance.
He put it where it belongs.
The "mold" looks like it's limited to the beam material. It could be that the particular hack of lumber they came out of spent too much time outside or some other handling ot condition. (species?)
I wouldn't get excited over this with the season we're in and the stage of construction this building is in.... yet. That is if there's not a member of your household with an extreme mold sensitivity. 👍
 

racecougar

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From the photos, it looks like the wrap was installed properly. Zooming in on the ceiling, it looks like that is a texture, not condensation (hopefully that's correct). Assuming this is in a humid climate with notable temp swings? That isn't the builder's fault.
 
OP
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What climate?

Is there any ventilation? Doors or windows ever opened? Soffit and/or ridge vents? I suspect the dirt floor is a substantial source of moisture, maybe leading to condensation on the building.
There are two overhead doors and two window. There’s also soffits . They weren’t open until we noticed the mold. We sprayed all the wood with vinegar . We live in upstate ny and it has been a warmer winter so far. I’m thinking the ground is causing the moisture but if the contractor didn’t wrap the perlins in tyvek so there’s no air flow to the attic area would that still cause the issue?
 
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Is that water on those ceiling panels? Can't tell on phone if it is that or some kind of texture...

If so, holy ****.

Are you running a hot tub in there?

You mentioned you don't have concrete in there yet, but is there any kind of vapor barrier on or under the stone/dirt floor?
It is water on the ceiling. There’s no electricity, power or water. And no vapor barrier on the floor.
 
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From the photos, it looks like the wrap was installed properly. Zooming in on the ceiling, it looks like that is a texture, not condensation (hopefully that's correct). Assuming this is in a humid climate with notable temp swings? That isn't the builder's fault.
It’s moisture on the ceiling . It was dripping on us and we felt it and it’s definitely water.
 
OP
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From the photos, it looks like the wrap was installed properly. Zooming in on the ceiling, it looks like that is a texture, not condensation (hopefully that's correct). Assuming this is in a humid climate with notable temp swings? That isn't the builder's fault.
You can’t see it in these pictures but he tyvek the top of the perlin so there’s no air going up through the attic.
 

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slowtwitch73

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I'd get up there pronto and cut the tyvek out about a foot down from the top all the way around.

Then figure out a better longer term solution.
 

racecougar

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Wow.

Is there a vapor barrier above the ceiling sheetmetal?

How soon will you be able to get the building insulated/sealed/finished?


You can’t see it in these pictures but he tyvek the top of the perlin so there’s no air going up through the attic.
Once the building is finished, you don't want air leaking into the attic.
 

Sweetcorn

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It is water on the ceiling. There’s no electricity, power or water. And no vapor barrier on the floor.
Wow, that's a whole lot of condensation. You need to do what you can to minimize the temp differentials. Not that there is a ton you can do without finishing the floor or insulation.

Have you had some recent outdoor temperature swings?

Do you open and close the large doors on the barn frequently? If the barn is cold inside and it's warm outside when you open it up. that isn't going to do you any favors. Might want to keep it as closed as possible to minimize the swings.

I'd heed the advice of improving the airflow through there as well to get it dried out.
 

Hank11

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If it won't freeze you need to open the building up and let it dry out. Open all the doors and windows. Fans may help. You don't need to remove anything but the very humid air inside the building.

This is inevitable with a dirt floor. Go put a piece of sheet plastic down on the dirt held down with some boards and see if the next day if its wet on the bottom. It will be real wet.

You'll need the house wrap when you insulate, leave it alone. When you pour the floor, be sure to put plastic down on the crushed stone before you pour.
 

Hank11

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Your best bet to mitigate this is to put plastic down on the entire floor and seal it best you can. Obviously that will make the building hard to use until you take it up and pour the floor.
 

billconner

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I'll second poly on the floor, opening everything that opens to promote drying, and not removing house wrap. I live on the St Lawrence and it is indeed a strange and warm winter, but also very wet.
 

dogdog

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removal, I used the product call Mold Armor, spray it and it smells like strong bleach but it is not bleach. Leave it on and it gradually whiten and bleach out the mold and stain that mold left behind...

Have to do that to the garage header two or 3 summers ago it was rotted and moldy, all I remember was its a right before the covid pandamic so price of wood was not insane. remove the header and tread the wood with mold armor and left it out side, cause I don't want them to airborne all over the house. In OP's case the wood still looks good so maybe just treat it and find a way to remediate the air circulation problems. Don't know what it takes for that part.

if it is inside the house I used In-cide or Concrobium mold control. pricy but works. it doesn't remove the stain mold left behind though.
 
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OP
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I'd get up there pronto and cut the tyvek out about a foot down from the top all the way around.

Then figure out a better longer term solution.
When we noticed it we pulled the tyvek that was stapled over the perlins and pulled the tyvek down to allow the air to flow up and out.
 
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removal, I used the product call Mold Armor, spray it and it smells like strong bleach but it is not bleach. Leave it on and it gradually whiten and bleach out the mold and stain that mold left behind...

Have to do that to the garage header two or 3 summers ago it was rotted and moldy, all I remember was its a right before the covid pandamic so price of wood was not insane. remove the header and tread the wood with mold armor and left it out side, cause I don't want them to airborne all over the house. In OP's case the wood still looks good so maybe just treat it and find a way to remediate the air circulation problems. Don't know what it takes for that part.

if it is inside the house I used In-cide or Concrobium mold control. pricy but works. it doesn't remove the stain mold left behind though.
We sprayed vinegar all over the wood. Hoping this fixes the mold on the wood. I’m thinking we will have to do it again but the temperature has dropped to the 20s so will do it when it gets a bit warmer. Maybe with it freezing outside it should help the condensation as well.
 

Rst277

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No real emergency, unheated buildings get moisture in them and then dry out. Getting some airflow will do the job, spray the mold with a bleach solution and wipe it down. Or don't. Once you seal up the walls it won't matter.
 
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If it won't freeze you need to open the building up and let it dry out. Open all the doors and windows. Fans may help. You don't need to remove anything but the very humid air inside the building.

This is inevitable with a dirt floor. Go put a piece of sheet plastic down on the dirt held down with some boards and see if the next day if its wet on the bottom. It will be real wet.

You'll need the house wrap when you insulate, leave it alone. When you pour the floor, be sure to put plastic down on the crushed stone before you pour.
Thank you we talked about that today . Maybe just putting plastic down and a layer of crusher run until we do the floor.
 

Rst277

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Yes I was thinking the samething.
Not a big problem at all unless you have a bunch of valuable stuff in the building that will have increased rust due to the condensation. Let it dry out and all will be good. My farm shop gets just as much condensation in it whenever I heat it up in the winter and then it freezes the next day.
 
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Wow.

Is there a vapor barrier above the ceiling sheetmetal?

How soon will you be able to get the building insulated/sealed/finished?



Once the building is finished, you don't want air leaking into the attic.
The ceiling is sheet metal and nothing in the ceiling . We weren’t planning on insulating it for awhile and the contractor knew this.
We weren’t planning on doing any of the finishing work for a year or two . It was just going to be cold storage. We have no power or water hooked up.
 
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Not a big problem at all unless you have a bunch of valuable stuff in the building that will have increased rust due to the condensation. Let it dry out and all will be good. My farm shop gets just as much condensation in it whenever I heat it up in the winter and then it freezes the next day.
We just have a couple of boats , trailers and tractors in there. I’m concerned about the vinyl and canvas on the boats though. I guess just do what we can and see how it works out.
 

Youngandfree

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removal, I used the product call Mold Armor, spray it and it smells like strong bleach but it is not bleach. Leave it on and it gradually whiten and bleach out the mold and stain that mold left behind...

Have to do that to the garage header two or 3 summers ago it was rotted and moldy, all I remember was its a right before the covid pandamic so price of wood was not insane. remove the header and tread the wood with mold armor and left it out side, cause I don't want them to airborne all over the house. In OP's case the wood still looks good so maybe just treat it and find a way to remediate the air circulation problems. Don't know what it takes for that part.

if it is inside the house I used In-cide or Concrobium mold control. pricy but works. it doesn't remove the stain mold left behind though.
Mold Armour is bleach and caustic soda. Just highly overpriced.
 

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dogdog

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Mold Armour is bleach and caustic soda. Just highly overpriced.
yes and they are not that much more expensive or less expensive than the concorbium, bottom line it works well but I wouldn't trusted it to be fogged indoor, just spray and treat an small to medium area. concorbium is what I used in the cold foggers.

I have done bleach spraying , concorbium, vinegar, mold armor, in-cide... fogging spraying or that fancy electrostatic. lets say I wouldn't fog with vinegar, or bleach or mold armor or spray indoor that will be living area with these.

just to give you some prespective on price. of 1 gallons, they are not that much off. you can call those articles that claims bleach is not a treatment for mold fake news, but I rather spend that extra $10 to get that guarantee.



This was $35 and of cause gone crazy after covid. now $43

30% vinegar $22


Mold Armor

bleach $8
 
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dogdog

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We sprayed vinegar all over the wood. Hoping this fixes the mold on the wood. I’m thinking we will have to do it again but the temperature has dropped to the 20s so will do it when it gets a bit warmer. Maybe with it freezing outside it should help the condensation as well.

Not sure if vinegar works well, I tried the 30% ones, when I have to deal with the nasty demolition. didn't seems to work. tried straight bleach from bottle, got my back burned and still didn't seems to work well, tried uvc lights, that was a joke. only product that seems to budge is the ones with these tri, or quad salts, same main ingredient in different products names... 3m , concorbium, incide have those quad salts but not bleach and of cause mold armor works too but that is nasty on skin, it's ok if it is a barn... living space I wouldn't do fogging on mold armor or bleach...

I am just listing products I have tried and works. There is or was an epa listing of all products registered to treat molds in their website some where,.... I have google it before. if you wanted to be sure. I know concorbium and in-cide are on the list. Maybe...

There is a product that you can use and spray treat and forget it.... for indoor mold treatments.
I think it is this one I have, don't remember, there was a youtuber from texas very slick talking guy that have an epsoide on another product, sorry don't remember that one... He sprays it after mixing in 1:5 ratio all over the wood before finishing... will post it when I find it... I remember watching that when I was fantically trying to find something to treat the molds...


just saying they have those products.


This guy. now I just have to find the video I watched about this product he used. at least he claims it wasn't a promo video, on this one just the one he used.


NVM... that video was about roaches the product also ahve mold inhibitor added as well listed on his amazon links.

 
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Jeepster04

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Not surprising. You have a sealed building with a dirt floor and cold metal on the ceiling. Warm moist air from the ground has no where to go and the moist air is condensing on the cold metal. Open the building and let it breathe till you have plastic on the floor.

110% not the contractors fault. What are you calling a perlin? House wrap on the perlins has nothing to do with this.
 

racecougar

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The ceiling is sheet metal and nothing in the ceiling . We weren’t planning on insulating it for awhile and the contractor knew this.
We weren’t planning on doing any of the finishing work for a year or two . It was just going to be cold storage. We have no power or water hooked up.
Again, this isn't the fault of the contractor. From what you've shown us in the photos, the contractor didn't do anything wrong here. Once the building is insulated and conditioned (with a proper floor), this won't be an issue.
 

Youngandfree

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yes and they are not that much more expensive or less expensive than the concorbium, bottom line it works well but I wouldn't trusted it to be fogged indoor, just spray and treat an small to medium area. concorbium is what I used in the cold foggers.

I have done bleach spraying , concorbium, vinegar, mold armor, in-cide... fogging spraying or that fancy electrostatic. lets say I wouldn't fog with vinegar, or bleach or mold armor or spray indoor that will be living area with these.

just to give you some prespective on price. of 1 gallons, they are not that much off. you can call those articles that claims bleach is not a treatment for mold fake news, but I rather spend that extra $10 to get that guarantee.



This was $35 and of cause gone crazy after covid. now $43

30% vinegar $22


Mold Armor

bleach $8
I'm just pointing out you said "mold Armour smells like bleach but isn't bleach." So I posted the SDS showing it's bleach. That mold Armour isn't worth the extra $10. You said it's worth spending the money to get something better than bleach. Add a little caustic drain cleaner to make it the same.
 
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Rst277

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We just have a couple of boats , trailers and tractors in there. I’m concerned about the vinyl and canvas on the boats though. I guess just do what we can and see how it works out.
Just getting some kind of air flow should do the job in the short term. If you opened up the ceiling a bit perfect, leave the doors open a bit if possible.
 

AC-WC

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Had a similar situation with mom's metal barn before it got destroyed. It was a combo of 2 things: 1) metal roof with no thermal break i.e. insulation, liner etc 2) gravel floor w/ no vapor barrier. I don't remember it getting as bad as your pictures but I know we had condensation and that was with a full vented metal ridge. It only happened in warm weather.
The replacement barn was completed about a month ago and the crew found sheet metal with some kind of material/flocking to act as a thermal break for the roof panels. It has yet to sweat in there and that's with the same floor.

With no insulation in your ceiling it doesn't surprise me you're getting condensation.
 

dogdog

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I'm just pointing out you said "mold Armour smells like bleach but isn't bleach." So I posted the SDS showing it's bleach. That mold Armour isn't worth the extra $10. You said it's worth spending the money to get something better than bleach. Add a little caustic drain cleaner to make it the same.
It wasn’t, but I am not a chemist, and tell you chlorine is same as caustic soda and bleach is an alkaline not an acid. I trust a professional to mix these kinda chemical and knowing some what of better results, Than trying to remember always put water into acid.
 

Youngandfree

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It wasn’t, but I am not a chemist, and tell you chlorine is same as caustic soda and bleach is an alkaline not an acid. I trust a professional to mix these kinda chemical and knowing some what of better results, Than trying to remember always put water into acid.
Chlorine and caustic soda are definitely not the same. And caustic soda isn't an acid either. Both are alkaline and both are corrosive. They are listed separately on the sds.
 
OP
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Had a similar situation with mom's metal barn before it got destroyed. It was a combo of 2 things: 1) metal roof with no thermal break i.e. insulation, liner etc 2) gravel floor w/ no vapor barrier. I don't remember it getting as bad as your pictures but I know we had condensation and that was with a full vented metal ridge. It only happened in warm weather.
The replacement barn was completed about a month ago and the crew found sheet metal with some kind of material/flocking to act as a thermal break for the roof panels. It has yet to sweat in there and that's with the same floor.

With no insulation in your ceiling it doesn't surprise me you're getting condensation.
So you recommend getting insulation in the attic? It’s not warm out. It has been in the 40’s. It’s finally got to normal ny temperatures . So hopefully this will help a bit.
 
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