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oil furnace sooting extensively

paulmars

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Jun 7, 2013
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207
In December 2023 I noticed lottsa smoke coming from my furnace. I live in florida, so dont use it too much. I did a smoke test and draft check january 2023 and all was good.

It was still heating house fine.

Many years ago I started doing my own maintenance/tune ups because I could not find anyone in florida to do it right. Even the guy who installed it didnt set it up properly. So, I check smoke and draft at least once a year. I change filter at every take fill. Strainer, nozzle and electrodes (yes I adj them too) every year or two. There are a few other parts that Ive changed as called for in the maintenance manual, that I cant remember right now. I also got the proper specs from the manufactures. One service guy actually came with a later revised spec for a later model and some specs were different. I confirmed with the manufacturer that those specs were wrong for my model year. He also didnt check draft. I can post that letter.

Anyway Im having doubts about my tuning ability, so I again looked for someone qualified. I contacted over 70 HVAC service companies in my and neighboring counties in the past two weeks. I found no one. Many said they could, but when asked how they adj co or stack temp, then didnt know.

Last week I scrubbed out then chamber, heat exchangers, sight tubes, flue, and chimney. Whatta mess! Then I changed the nozzle which was less then 2 years old (it was dripping oil and Ive never seen that before) and even though it looked fine, I changed the pump strainer too.

Im going to order a pressure gauge to hook up permanently to the pump, to check and monitor the pressure which Ive never checked. Suggestions for a good accurate brand?

Any ideas why it was smoking so much?

tks,
paul
 
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RivennHewn

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I had my old oil burner serviced yearly.

1947 Heil, it outlasted the house, which was torn down in 2022
 

Sumboodie

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Mar 20, 2021
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AK
I had my old oil burner serviced yearly.

1947 Heil, it outlasted the house, which was torn down in 2022
My brother's place had a similar vintage boiler.
It used in ~2 months what the new boiler uses a winter!
 

PoorUB

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Mar 29, 2021
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Fargo, ND
Too much soot can be from a few things, improper nozzle protection, electrodes in the oil spray, and not enough air are a few of the typical ones. Bad chimney, screwing up the draft is another. Do you have a barometric damper on the vent pipe from the furnace to the chimney?

I used to do a fair amount of oil and the company I worked for would not buy the proper set up equipment, but I got pretty god and the old eye ball adjustment.
 

danski0224

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Jan 29, 2005
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Near Naperville, IL
Last week I scrubbed out then chamber, heat exchangers, sight tubes, flue, and chimney. Whatta mess! Then I changed the nozzle which was less then 2 years old (it was dripping oil and Ive never seen that before) and even though it looked fine, I changed the pump strainer too.

Im going to order a pressure gauge to hook up permanently to the pump, to check and monitor the pressure which Ive never checked. Suggestions for a good accurate brand?

Any ideas why it was smoking so much?
If the smoke test is within parameters, then how is it sooting?

Do you have a combustion analyzer?

Are you using an actual smoke test kit- a pump, test paper and comparison chart?

I would guess that something is off with the pump pressure, and it may not be showing up right away. Could be junk in the tank... who knows. Won't know until the oil pressure gauge is connected.
 
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paulmars

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Flame was bigger then i remembered it. Not lazy like too little air. That was when i noticed the smoke. I haven't turned her back on since i cleaned her out.
 
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htmdude57

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Apr 28, 2014
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Hudson Valley, New York
I believe a tall flame is not getting enough air. Any oil burner techs out there, correct me if I'm wrong, but I think if you feed in more air, the flame gets lower?

Then that also makes me wonder- have you cleaned the blades on the blower? you should be able to do it with a skinny bottle brush, or pipe cleaner, just by tilting the transformer back towards you. Dust in the blower blades cuts down on air flow.

I've seen oil burners that I could scrape the blower blades with a screwdriver and get strips of dust off it that look like slices of bacon.

Apparently you have not tested for CO2? That would tell you if it's getting enough air or starving for air.
 
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paulmars

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No dust there.

If i had co2 tester I probably wouldn't be here asking questions.
 
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paulmars

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Some co2 testers are cheap enough,but i worry how accurate some may be. When i was researching digital draft gauges i learned that many hava accuracy of plus or minus 0.02 which makes them useless. A gauge reading of -0.03 with a +\-0.02 accuracy, the actual value could be anything between -0.01 to -0.05
 

danski0224

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Near Naperville, IL
You need a combustion analyzer. You can't really service or check your equipment without one. Most HVAC outfits in my area that service residential equipment are non-union, and they put the burden of providing this type of tool onto the employee. The union shops that I am aware of are no better. Therefore, most are guessing. I wouldn't buy one either for the boss.

Testo 310 can be had for around a grand all-in, sensors are field replaceable and do not require calibration. There are others. Some new ones block off the sensors while not in use to prolong sensor life. Look at True Tech Tools, and they have educational material on their website.

Many combustion analyzers have a built-in manometer for checking draft. Even the Testo 310 (old one), but you have to do the draft reading separately.

Separate digital micromanometers are expensive and need calibration. Something good enough for airflow testing will be over a grand.

The Dwyer 460 works very well for measuring flue draft, and it is almost free compared to a digital equivalent.

You would be miles ahead if you took the CO course at NCI, anyone that pays for the class can take it. Take your new combustion analyzer to the class and learn how to use it.
 
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paulmars

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Pump papers instruct on cking press and shutoff. as soon as i choose a gauge ill do both.
 

fitter30

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Jun 23, 2019
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Location
Peace Valley,mo
You need a combustion analyzer. You can't really service or check your equipment without one. Most HVAC outfits in my area that service residential equipment are non-union, and they put the burden of providing this type of tool onto the employee. The union shops that I am aware of are no better. Therefore, most are guessing. I wouldn't buy one either for the boss.

Testo 310 can be had for around a grand all-in, sensors are field replaceable and do not require calibration. There are others. Some new ones block off the sensors while not in use to prolong sensor life. Look at True Tech Tools, and they have educational material on their website.

Many combustion analyzers have a built-in manometer for checking draft. Even the Testo 310 (old one), but you have to do the draft reading separately.

Separate digital micromanometers are expensive and need calibration. Something good enough for airflow testing will be over a grand.

The Dwyer 460 works very well for measuring flue draft, and it is almost free compared to a digital equivalent.

You would be miles ahead if you took the CO course at NCI, anyone that pays for the class can take it. Take your new combustion analyzer to the class and learn how to use it.
My last service job lasted 40 years running industrial and commercial hvac work mainly chillers and boilers. Glad i worked for a company that believes in tools that went from 2 servicemen to 46 buying all the tools. Setting up a burner correctly takes more the sticking in a analyzer probe especially a oil burner. Post 1 wrote nozzle was dripping oil incomplete combustion needs to be addressed. Yearly nozzle , filter , refractory, pressure, smoke and then after seeing how it's burning a analyzer is used with a close eye on co2 , o2 and stack temp. Natural and lp gas are a lot more forgiving on a analyzer unless co or co2 are way out of range peg the meter spend a hour clearing the meter.
 
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paulmars

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Jun 7, 2013
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Once i choose a oil pressure brand ill test the shut off and oil pressure. Because of clearance issues ill need a 4' tube between the pressure guage and pump. How do i get the air out of that?
 

dogdog

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Nov 15, 2011
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12,711
If you are that ********* DIY, you can go to the NORA site and view some of their videos on oil heating. They have a channel on youtube as well. Soot = running rich / not enough air / incomplete burn.

 

drboom

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Nov 16, 2014
Messages
74
We used to have a problem with our oil boiler sooting up. The boiler room was too small and well sealed so the burner was starved for combustion air. Typically, the tech would test using their combustion analyzer with the boiler room door open without realizing it was an incorrect test. For a while, we left the boiler room door off but eventually installed a proper combustion air intake from the outside.
 
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paulmars

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Jun 7, 2013
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207
Juck checked pressure and shut off.

Running pressure was proper at 100 lbs

Pump papers say "after shutdown it should be 80% or higher. NOTE: A and B model pumps could theoretically have a cut-off

pressure of less than 80%. The important operation is that it drops to some value and stops."

im type A pump (a2va-7116)

how long should it stop?

Mine dropped immediately to 63, then after 5 minutes on a timer it was 43, then after another 5 minutes it was at 40. Then i removed gauge.
 
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paulmars

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Jun 7, 2013
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Im starting a new thread titled "when to replace oil furnace shutoff solenoid
 
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