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Electrical Issues with HVAC system - Lots of crazyiness

P0234

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Executive summary: I have a frantic HVAC tech (that has never been to my house) trying to scare me into getting an electrician to fix my loose neutrals.

So I'll try to make this as short as I can, its a bit of a long story....

Last winter when it was really cold (5 degrees, that's cold in VA!) I got some errors on my Rheem Econet thermostat panel about DC Voltage being low at the inverter, the code was t905_o inverter fault - dc bus undervoltage. It went away, I figured it was either a power surge or just the cold causing the inverter to have a hard time starting up. Fast forward to last week, another cold snap, this time the error kept coming up. I also heard crackling from the heat pump breaker in my house panel. I turned the breaker off and I had the HVAC company come out and look at the unit, that's when things started to get a little weird.

The tech spools up the unit, gets the errors and notes we're dropping to 160 volts on the disconnect. He also tells me he heard crackling sounds coming from the meter base (of note here, the meter, panels and heat pump are all within 3 feet of each other). Says I have a power issue, to call an electrician or the power company for a free check. He writes me up, I pay, he says he diconnected the heatpump but left the resistance/emergency heat on for me. I come back in the house and notice he's turned off my furnace (resistance heater) in addition to turning off the breaker and removing the quick disconnect for the heat pump. I have no heat at this point, I luckily we heat mostly with wood and use the heat pump to fill in the dips.

Next day I have an electrician come out. he observes the crackling sound at the breaker like I did, notes the low voltage on the unit and notices I have a bad breaker that has fused itself to the bus bar. This panel is one of the Challenger panels notorious for having bad breakers. No other major issues on the main panel, some moderate discoloration on one side of the bus, which he said is typical for the age/panel. Luckily I have one unused circuit that is not used. He moves the heat pump circuit to that slot, installs a new breaker. We power on the heat pump, it spools up to full RPM, he measures voltage, zero drop at full speed now. Not wanting another burnt slot, I ask him to replace the breaker for the furnace, he's says not a bad idea. He goes and looks at the resistance/emergency heat/coils/whatever you want to call them and can't from the labels figure out what the total amp draw should be. There is an unobtanium 110 amp breaker currently in the panel, I'd prefer to replace it with a 100 as they are still reasonably priced ($80 vs almost $300). He says no problem, call the HVAC company and get me what the spec is on the unit so we don't overload the breaker. He also notes its time to start thinking about new panels and gives me a quote.

And that's when it really starts to get weird. I call the HVAC company and ask for the specs on the furnace/resistance heat.. I get this guy that is downright frantic. He's not the original tech, apparently he's the one the first guy called for help on this issue. I explain that I had an electrician out, he identified the issue and fixed it. He is ADAMANT that I call the power company, he says I've been doing this for 30 years, you have a loose neutral, the other tech heard your meter crackling (he's really frantic about this). I say ok, can you please get me the breaker specs so I know I have the right size breaker for the furnace and that I'll call to have the power company look at it. He says he will look up the spec and email me. I hang up, call the PoCo.

PoCo comes out, takes meter out, checks wires, says no signs of arcing or heat. He kind of chuckles at the loose neutral comment and says glad you called, better safe than sorry.

Not having gotten my specs yet, I reach out again to Mr. Frantic HVAC tech. He completely berates me for even asking for the specs, says you have a neutral issue, I've seen houses burned down with this. I calmly explain to him again that I had an electrician identify I problem as well as go over both panels. He proceeds to tell me I need another electrician that the one I had doesn't know what he is doing. He again brings up the crackling meter and that I need to call the power company. I'm getting pretty pissed this point but staying cool on the phone. I tell him look, I had the power company out, they found nothing. He then starts to tell me that the electrician is incompetent and that I need to get another one. He then says that the other tech opened the panel in the garage to measure the voltage, I don't think this is true, and if it is, he really shouldn't have been in there.

My goal is to replace the panels in the spring, the quote from the electrician seemed more than fair from what I've read here and other places about costs. What would you do at this point? I'm tempted to call another sparky and then send the bill to the HVAC company if they don't find anything but then I think its just going to be a waste of my time. As things stand, everything is working fine, though I would like to get a new breaker on the furnace until spring just to be extra safe.

What would you do?
 
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PoorUB

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I think you have it covered.

As for the electric heat specs, it should say the KW on the heat strips somewhere. Seriously, I cant imagine dropping to a 100 amp breaker from the original 110 amp would be a problem.

Can you find the specs that are listed on your electric furnace?

110 amps make me think it is a 20KW heat bank, or 83 amps. For 83 amps it would be typical to up size to a 110 breaker and size the wiring the same. Chances are it is 83 amps, plus a few more amps for the blower motor, maybe 4 amps. so maybe 87 amps total.I don't see an issue with a 100 amp breaker, but perhaps someone will correct me.

As far as I can tell NEC limits continuous load on a breaker at 80%. 110 amps x 80% = 88 amps. 100 amps at 80% = 80 amps so you will be about 7 amps over, but the heat should not run continuously, maybe 10 minutes on, hen 10 minutes off.

Again, if it was me, I would run the 100 amp breaker.
 

jeepxj

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tell him the power company came out and there is no loose N along with 2 electricians.
 

micromind

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A loose neutral is a very serious problem but it'll manifest itself by lights dimming or brightening when large 120 volt loads are applied. Toaster, microwave, hair dryer, etc.

If the units have 2 pole breakers, they do not use the neutral so it wouldn't matter if it's loose or not.

The crackling sounds you heard are almost certainly caused by the bad breaker to bus connection. This is further confirmed by the low voltage at the unit. Once this was corrected, the unit ran fine.

The 110 amp breaker is most likely completely code compliant, a 100 would not be but the overcurrent is so slight that it almost certainly wouldn't matter.

Challenger panels are known for not being able to handle large loads well and with a burned bus, I would replace it as soon as possible.
 
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P0234

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I think you have it covered.

As for the electric heat specs, it should say the KW on the heat strips somewhere. Seriously, I cant imagine dropping to a 100 amp breaker from the original 110 amp would be a problem.

Can you find the specs that are listed on your electric furnace?

110 amps make me think it is a 20KW heat bank, or 83 amps. For 83 amps it would be typical to up size to a 110 breaker and size the wiring the same. Chances are it is 83 amps, plus a few more amps for the blower motor, maybe 4 amps. so maybe 87 amps total.I don't see an issue with a 100 amp breaker, but perhaps someone will correct me.

As far as I can tell NEC limits continuous load on a breaker at 80%. 110 amps x 80% = 88 amps. 100 amps at 80% = 80 amps so you will be about 7 amps over, but the heat should not run continuously, maybe 10 minutes on, hen 10 minutes off.

Again, if it was me, I would run the 100 amp breaker.
Thanks, here is what’s on the furnace.
 

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P0234

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Even new math wouldn’t explain this one.
I think he is using new math. The system config says 20kw, but he says 15kw.
 

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BrandonV

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Crazy. As others have stated I'd get a new HVAC company.

One thing for the HVAC technician to make a recommendation another for them to leave their lane and start acting as an electrician.
 

walta

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Thanks, here is what’s on the furnace.
You posted a photo of the air handlers model number but that air handler can be ordered with any one of several different heating elements. What you need to do is remove the upper cover find the model number on the heating element and look it up in the chart you posted.

I opened up my very similar Rheem HP and the attached photo is of my model number tag.



Walta
 

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P0234

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Crazy. As others have stated I'd get a new HVAC company.

One thing for the HVAC technician to make a recommendation another for them to leave their lane and start acting as an electrician.
It's even crazier to me that this guy hasn't even been here, just talked to the guy that was here on the phone.
 

PoorUB

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Thanks, here is what’s on the furnace.
Like the other post mentioned, that is a list of heat strips that can be used in that air handler, the data for that is inside the air handler, right on the heater portion.

That said, there was only one that requires a 110 amp breaker, and it says 100/110 amp breaker and it is 19.2 KW, which is less than the 20 KW I mentioned. I still stand by with putting a 100 amp breaker in.

19.2 KW is 80 amps, plus the 4.9 amps for the blower motor, so round up to 85 amps. 5 amps over the recommended constant use of a 100 amp breaker, but like I mentioned, the chances of the heat running for hours at a time is pretty rare.
 
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P0234

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Like the other post mentioned, that is a list of heat strips that can be used in that air handler, the data for that is inside the air handler, right on the heater portion.

That said, there was only one that requires a 110 amp breaker, and it says 100/110 amp breaker and it is 19.2 KW, which is less than the 20 KW I mentioned. I still stand by with putting a 100 amp breaker in.

19.2 KW is 80 amps, plus the 4.9 amps for the blower motor, so round up to 85 amps. 5 amps over the recommended constant use of a 100 amp breaker, but like I mentioned, the chances of the heat running for hours at a time is pretty rare.
Yep, plan to crack it open this weekend to check the specs, also going to note the voltage under load at the furnace to make sure we're good there too.

If I'm reading this right: https://www.southwire.com/calculator-vdrop

I should see a max drop of about 0.6-0.75% depending on how long the run is, which I'm guessing is about 40-50 feet. Does that sound right?
 

PoorUB

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Yep, plan to crack it open this weekend to check the specs, also going to note the voltage under load at the furnace to make sure we're good there too.

If I'm reading this right: https://www.southwire.com/calculator-vdrop

I should see a max drop of about 0.6-0.75% depending on how long the run is, which I'm guessing is about 40-50 feet. Does that sound right?
Electrical codes will dictate the wire size. They might be one or two sizes larger than what that calculator shows. I do not have a NEC code book any more so no idea.
 
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P0234

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Electrical codes will dictate the wire size. They might be one or two sizes larger than what that calculator shows. I do not have a NEC code book any more so no idea.
The wire size is 1/0 Aluminum which according to that site is rated for 120 amp. I'm just asking about what sort of voltage drop should I expect when the furnace is on high.
 

firebirdparts

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What would you do at this point?
You got into this situation by "preventive maintenance". On the 110 amp breaker. So don't do the preventive maintenance.

These "professionals," you need to leave them alone for a while. They'll cost you a lot of money.

My answer presumes that you aren't going to figure this out yourself. I was thinking you would have done that already if you were going to do it. Identifying which heat strips you have is going to depend on some stickers and model numbers and all that. So it may work or it may not. You could measure amperage directly. You could also disable the heat strips, but if you are using the heat pump for 'extra cold' weather you may not want to.
 

walta

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The wire size is 1/0 Aluminum which according to that site is rated for 120 amp. I'm just asking about what sort of voltage drop should I expect when the furnace is on high.
The voltage drop for your heaters is irrelevant. If the wires are code compliant the voltage drop will be small. Even if the drop was higher the heaters would not care. The heaters would make a few less BTUs but the wires would make the BTUs instead and since the wires are inside the house, all the BTUs stay in the house every thing is equal.

I have my heaters locked out when the outdoor temp is over 5°F so they might run an hour or 2 a year and they run for the 3 minutes a defrosts cycle takes.

Walta
 
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P0234

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You shouldn't see any real voltage drop, maybe 1 or 2 volts. Less than 10 for sure.
So I'm at 249 resting, 247 on low heat and 244 on high heat. Not ideal but certainly not like the heat pump.
The voltage drop for your heaters is irrelevant. If the wires are code compliant the voltage drop will be small. Even if the drop was higher the heaters would not care. The heaters would make a few less BTUs but the wires would make the BTUs instead and since the wires are inside the house, all the BTUs stay in the house every thing is equal.

I have my heaters locked out when the outdoor temp is over 5°F so they might run an hour or 2 a year and they run for the 3 minutes a defrosts cycle takes.

Walta
I agree in principle, but the issue with the heat pump was a 80 volt drop due to a crappy old breaker. I'm trying to avoid the same issue with the resistance heat and not excited about blowing $300 on a breaker knowing I'm going to replace the panels in the spring.
 
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P0234

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You posted a photo of the air handlers model number but that air handler can be ordered with any one of several different heating elements. What you need to do is remove the upper cover find the model number on the heating element and look it up in the chart you posted.

I opened up my very similar Rheem HP and the attached photo is of my model number tag.



Walta
No sticker on mine that I can see…

IMG_2371.jpegIMG_2373.jpegIMG_2377.jpeg
 
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P0234

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I'm slightly confused by that mess...

-where is the aluminum from? I see the other feeders are copper...
-the 3 wires under the screw, and 1 being a smaller size, looks odd
The breakers say on them do not connect Aluminum directly to them. Looks like we go from 1/0 to some sort of tap with lots of tape on it.
 

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walta

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Did you look on the other side of the heater for a label?

We can see your twin 110 amp breakers are feeding twin 60 amp breakers in the air handler so any breaker of 60 is totally over kill.

If we read the chart no heater that requires 2 circuits need a breaker over 60 amps.



Buy the 2 60 amp breakers and call it good.



Walta
 

PCustoms

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I would be suspect of the splicing and wires in the air handler.
Me too, would be easy to get a couple feet of wire and some new nuts to fix that.

Weird that the crack HVAC electrician didn't have anything to say about this!
 
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P0234

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It's a 20 kW. You can tell by the picture of the breakers.

I would be suspect of the splicing and wires in the air handler.
I'm no electrician, but isn't the right way to do this with a junction box outside the unit then run the copper from there into the air handler?
 
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P0234

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Did you look on the other side of the heater for a label?

We can see your twin 110 amp breakers are feeding twin 60 amp breakers in the air handler so any breaker of 60 is totally over kill.

If we read the chart no heater that requires 2 circuits need a breaker over 60 amps.



Buy the 2 60 amp breakers and call it good.



Walta
There is no label anywhere, I spent the better part of 10 minutes looking for it.

What do you mean twin 110 breakers? There is a single 1/0 feed coming into the air handler, that runs back to the panel which is on a 110 amp breaker. Inside the air handler there are taps that take the 1/0 to copper and into the breakers in the handler.
 

walta

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You need to run new wires your air handler requires 2 60 amp 240 Volt circuits!

Clearly the installer had no idea about electric and you would do well to lose his number.


Walta
 

Bert_

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A lot of air handlers like this do actually list a single circuit as an acceptable installation. I don't know how they splice those wires underneath that tape. But with a good spice this can be a reliable method, I have my doubts whether this is a good splice. The connection of the smaller wires to the breaker does not look very good.
 
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P0234

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Could you cite which section of the code is being violated?

I'd maybe give you unworkmanlike manner.
Yeah I'm reading in the HVAC forums and this seems like a common approach. Some are using wire nuts.

Obviously I haven't taken apart the tape surprise but visually the copper wires just look old, like the installer found them in the back of his van or they are the OG wires from the previous unit, but the 1/0 just looks a lot newer to my eyes. Also looks like they put some sort of wire goop on them, same stuff that is on the neutral above.

At this point to me this is a sleeping dog. I need new panels and then I'll deal with this given the minimal power loss here at the breakers.
 
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