Can Lights in Garage Re-Build

[Shriner]

I don't see many garages set up this way and I have to make a decision quickly so would appreciate any assistance. We had a house fire which was in the attached 4-car garage. Basically everything has now been gutted and insurance is obviously covering the cost of all new lighting, drywall, etc. Keep in mind that we have standard 9' drywalled ceilings as there are bedrooms above.

The GC and electrician both think the garage will be perfect with 6" LED can lights (basically in 6' squares) on dimmer switches with 2-3 zones. At first, I thought that seemed a little excessive and fancy for a garage but have really come around on the idea. I use the garage for auto work, wood work but also as a hangout spot with TV, etc. so it will be nice to dim the lights for game nights. I have just never personally seen it since most garage have the fluorescent or LED tubes or ceiling mount fixtures. Has anyone seen this in a garage and can comment on the lighting?

 

[mike93lx]

Can lights are way lower output than strip lights. It will be brighter than most garages, but inadequate for what most here are looking for.

It will probably be about as bright as a normal Living room.

I like having two lighting zones in my garage, but haven't wanted dimmers out there. I have a single fixture on a motion detector and the rest on a switch. The single is plenty to walk through or grab something from the fridge or tool box and the rest get turned on for anything more

 

[DGersic]

If I were doing the garage now, I’d be real tempted to use the canless disks like the one I just put on my front porch. Bright, lots of light, pretty good distribution, and adjustable colour temperature. Plus, it’s flush to the surrounding ceiling.

I have old school hanging florescent shop lights that have been converted to LEDs. I like them, they’re fine, but hanging down they do occasionally get hit with something where a flush light would not.

Edit:

I think this is the one I used.

 

[acer66]

Maybe have strip lights, I also have two circuits for them like Mike and add can lights for game nights?

Pretty easy now since everything is open.

 

[Shriner]

If I were doing the garage now, I’d be real tempted to use the canless disks like the one I just put on my front porch. Bright, lots of light, pretty good distribution, and adjustable colour temperature. Plus, it’s flush to the surrounding ceiling.

I have old school hanging florescent shop lights that have been converted to LEDs. I like them, they’re fine, but hanging down they do occasionally get hit with something where a flush light would not.

Yes, the flush portion is an added benefit. I will have a lift so the additional room will be nice even though we are just talking a few inches. I am not too worried about the brightness, I know it will be plenty and I have the 500 watt shop lights that I can always plug in for certain jobs. Was more worried about light distribution and ambiance with can lights in a garage.

 

[mike93lx]

I've used a bunch of wafers and greatly prefer the look of the ones that are slightly recessed vs completely flush. Makes a big difference in appearance, only downside is that they are thick enough that you can't install them right at a joist

 

[DGersic]

Is there going to be attic space above that’s accessible? If so, you could always add more lights later.

Or have some ceiling outlets cut in and ready to add hanging lights if the cans aren’t enough. Wiring is cheap and easy before the sheetrock goes up, compared to doing it after.

Maybe get a sample of what they want to use, and light it up to see what it will look like?

The distribution on the disk I put on the porch is good. Not like a traditional can light that makes a cone of light. Because it is flush mounted, the light goes everywhere.

I’m not sold on dimmers. I can’t think of a time when I’ve wanted less light in the garage. But we probably have different use cases. My garage is a garage, for parking in, and working on cars, snowblowers, lawn mowers, and general “outside” stuff. Concrete floor with stains. Painted walls, but not finished to “inside” standards. If yours is more “watching TV and hanging out” space, maybe dimmers would be a good idea.

 

[Git]

I have (12) of the 6" wafer led lights installed over the two stalls or our 3 stall garage (skylights over the single stall). The beauty of the wafer type lights is they can be literally installed almost anywhere so I was able to keep the layout I had planned. (There was some unexpected framing in the ceiling that would have ruined my layout had I used a traditional canned light)

Since this was a retrofit, I was able to divide the lights up into 4 zones with a junction box that has 3 switches in it (on pull chains). So when you turn on the wall switch only 3 lights come on and then if I want other lights, I just pull the chain. (you can see it in the left corner of the pic

 

[Shriner]

There is no attic space whatsoever, just the 12" floor I-Beams which is insulated. Great idea on the ceiling outlets! Should be easy to add and allow flexibility in the future.

 

[Shriner]

I have (12) of the 6" wafer led lights installed over the two stalls or our 3 stall garage (skylights over the single stall). The beauty of the wafer type lights is they can be literally installed almost anywhere so I was able to keep the layout I had planned. (There was some unexpected framing in the ceiling that would have ruined my layout had I used a traditional canned light)

Since this was a retrofit, I was able to divide the lights up into 4 zones with a junction box that has 3 switches in it (on pull chains). So when you turn on the wall switch only 3 lights come on and then if I want other lights, I just pull the chain. (you can see it in the left corner of the pic

Excellent, this is exactly what I was looking for. Any regrets on going with the can lights (Wafers)?

 

[Git]

Not at all. I would have never been able to place those 3 lights closest to the wall (near the tv) because there is a ceiling joist right where I wanted to put them. If you want more light, these things come in up to 8" in diameter

 

[Norcal]

If there is living space above the garage, the ceiling will need to be fire rated, that can be expensive & a PITA, to use cans or canless lighting.

 

[Shriner]

If there is living space above the garage, the ceiling will need to be fire rated, that can be expensive & a PITA, to use cans or canless lighting.

Can you clarify? My understanding is that the 5/8" ceiling drywall is the fire stop. As long as the lights are IC rated, I don't believe there is an issue.

 

[Norcal]

Can you clarify? My understanding is that the 5/8" ceiling drywall is the fire stop. As long as the lights are IC rated, I don't believe there is an issue.

IC means insulated ceiling nothing else, fire ratings are another category.

 

[cybrdyke]

Norcal is correct. The fixtures will need to be fire rated if they're recessed into the drywall with living spaces above. You'll need to find the ones with the red back on them, designating them as such. Also, if you put receptacles into the ceiling, they'll need to be protected by a GFCI and depending on local AHJ, possible bubble covers.
Wafers aren't normally used in garages, but several members here have done it and seem to be happy with it. They're glarey, unless you can find them slightly recessed, and they can create shadows and contrast if not spaced appropriately.
Good luck,
CD

 

[mm08822]

There are also fire-rated enclosures that can be installed in the joist bay at each can location before the can is installed. Not sure who makes them but I'm sure pricey for a 6x6 layout.

I would go with surface mount frosted led strip lighting in rows on a dimmer or two. You could have lighting levels in the entire garage permitting movie watching or surgery as daily use varies.

 

[Zeke]

If there is living space above the garage, the ceiling will need to be fire rated, that can be expensive & a PITA, to use cans or canless lighting.

First thing I thought of. And why are the GC and EC recommending a more expensive system on ins work?

Don't get me wrong. I like can lights. But I also like different lights for different applications. E.g., task lighting at benches and machines, overall lighting and mood lighting. I take care of the mood lighting in a old garage with old track lights which can be found for nothing. That might not be your thing and I understand.

 

[Bert_]

5 or 6 cans will give about the same light as a single 4' strip. You could light it with cans but you will need a lot more than what you are talking about

 

[LopezBart]

Fire rated LED down lights are about the same price in volume (order $30).
We have similar down lights in bathrooms, hallways, utility room and in soffits in our kitchen. They work well and look nice, but you end up using more of them, so they're not as cost-effective for a garage. Using more lights does have the beneficial effect of reducing shadows to a minimum.

 

[dave*99]

I use these in my woodshop. The room is fully drywalled, painted etc. I have 11' ceilings and used 8 lights in a 24x28 space. I'm very happy with the results. The lights have 0-10V dimming which works very well. Smooth, no strobing or flickering. This would solve your fire rating issue as they are surface mounted.

There are many versions of this light. I used the 6000lm model. There are lower output 4000lm models that come with the drywall brackets and are therefore cheaper. You have to purchase the brackets separately for my model. I needed the higher output due to the high ceilings. The color temperature is selectable.

I'm not a big fan on the puck lights. Yes they are easy to install and can fit in many places. But the bright dots of light are hard on my eyes. I'm constantly dimming them and my wife turns them back up.... There are 51 of them in my house.... And none in my shop and garage.

Before I settled on the light panels, I did investigate 4", 6" and 8" puck lights. I found in using the lighting design calculators that I would need a ton of them to reach 50fc light levels that I desired. Many light manufacturers have lighting design calculators, give it a try.

On another note, the fire rated ceiling in my garage (it's under living space) is drywalled with 2 layers of 5/8 drywall. That is a code requirement here in NJ.

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Lighting for 24x28 shop

So I think I'm off to a rocky start..... I've been reading the best light fixture ever thread for a long time. And I still think I need some help. The basics: Woodshop above garage. Under construction. I have some woodworking machinery to go in the shop. It will have drywall finished...

www.garagejournal.com

 

[pbon]

5 or 6 cans will give about the same light as a single 4' strip. You could light it with cans but you will need a lot more than what you are talking about

This is more or less what I found when I was deciding on lighting for my garage. I would have needed about 4 times as many can lights as 4’ LED, and that was using big can lights. I used 4’ LED instead. My use is a DIYer garage, mostly for automotive work, so a lot of light was important. I also wanted good looks — it is heated, air conditioned, dry walled, and with PVC tile floor.

I ran the wiring and installed the lights myself. 60 holes in the ceiling and wiring 60 lights would have been a pain even if groups were daisy chained. I have 3 switches — front, rear and side, all with dimmers. I bought the more expensive dimmer wire with the 600V rating so it could go in the same switch box. There is an even more expensive way, a romex that includes the wire for a 10V dimmer system.

 

[LOW1]

I have canlites in my workshop. It has 8.5 foot ceilings. They are nice for general lighting but I also need workbench lighting above my benches. Perhaps less ancient eyes would not.