Sliding Barn Doors on Metal Building

[SellersMachineCo]

Since the beginning planning stages of my shop, I’ve been wanting sliding doors. I decided to go with the standard drum roll up door in a 12x10 size for its security and weather proof qualities, but still have sliding doors in front of the roll up for the look and feel. I framed in a header inside the shop to give me something to bolt the track to, and bought (2) 12’ sections of door track with the brackets and door hardware.

The prep and buying the supplies was easy, but now I’m ready to install the tracks and I’m realizing it isn’t going to be straightforward. I can’t attach the tracks directly to the building because of the ribs in the metal siding. So my thought was to attach two 12’ 2x6s or 2x8s to the outside wall and attach the track hangers to that… but once again what do I do about the ribs in the steel siding? I also don’t want something that will be a maintenance issue, and painted or stained wood will need maintenance. Has anyone put sliding doors on this style building before? I haven’t found much info looking around on Google/YouTube/etc.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Yes, I have. I sliced the steel siding and removed enough to be able to get a 2*10" board attached to the wall, with a drip cap slipped up under the existing siding. I clad the board in custom bent aluminum in the same color as the siding. I don't have pics on my phone and am not sure if I still have the hard drive they would be on. Its a little more complicated than what I described but doable by someone that done enough exterior renovations.

 

[jack stand]

A 5/4 pt deck board is the depth of most panels ribs and makes a good mounting surface for your track. Arrange your track well away from the furthest "out" protruding obstacle, usually the ribs. Then build out your jambs to meet the rolling door.
You have a couple of disadvantages with the tube building and not planning for this.
Typically your necessary framing is installed before the finish metal, stopping and starting at this framing (in J channel and including flashing above) to support the track.
If you're sales/builder knew about this prior to the metal being installed.....
My first suggestion above would get it done, but it's not ideal in terms of creating a sandwich between the metal additional holes that are semi exposed without being under a flashing. Eventually you'll have problems.
To do this properly you need to pull off all of the siding, add the track support along with additional support to attach the additional J channels and the panel ends. A good hunk of work for basically a look.

 

[gazza]

I built 2x 14 feet high sliding doors using the some type of fittings as the brochure above, still working well even though I was only thinking about a month ago that I need to finish off the rollers at the bottom of the door, there is a steel "C" section above the door and the roller track is bolted to this. I can supply some pictures tomorrow. There is a small pic in my avatar

 

[SellersMachineCo]

Yes, I have. I sliced the steel siding and removed enough to be able to get a 2*10" board attached to the wall, with a drip cap slipped up under the existing siding. I clad the board in custom bent aluminum in the same color as the siding. I don't have pics on my phone and am not sure if I still have the hard drive they would be on. Its a little more complicated than what I described but doable by someone that done enough exterior renovations.

This sounds like the correct way to do it, but also what I was afraid of haha. It will be a little nerve wracking cutting into my new siding. I can handle everything except the cladding for the wood, I wonder if a building company would do that part for me?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

This sounds like the correct way to do it, but also what I was afraid of haha. It will be a little nerve wracking cutting into my new siding. I can handle everything except the cladding for the wood, I wonder if a building company would do that part for me?

You could use premade metal fascia.

 

[SellersMachineCo]

You could use premade metal fascia.

I just found this at Lowe’s, looks like it might work great!

 

[Zeke]

I don't understand why you wouldn't just use spacers on the flats between the ribs. Tubing would work.

 

[SellersMachineCo]

I don't understand why you wouldn't just use spacers on the flats between the ribs. Tubing would work.

That was my original plan, but then when you start thinking about water and leaks… there’s no good way to seal that. It seems like water will find its way in eventually.

 

[Zeke]

There must be dozen ways to seal any penetration. Make/buy hard rubber gaskets (washers), etc. What's the height of the ribs? 3/4"?
Some pipe and a chop saw and you can make dozens in minutes.

I thought you were going to complain that the bolts would essentially be cantilevered. Yes, but less than an inch? Increase the diameter of the stand off.

 

[SellersMachineCo]

There must be dozen ways to seal any penetration. Make/buy hard rubber gaskets (washers), etc. What's the height of the ribs? 3/4"?
Some pipe and a chop saw and you can make dozens in minutes.

I thought you were going to complain that the bolts would essentially be cantilevered. Yes, but less than an inch? Increase the diameter of the stand off.

That would definitely be the easier way to go, but it seems like everyone says that’s not a good way to do it. I just don’t want to have water issues 5,10… 20 years down the road. It makes sense to me that rubber degrades over time but flashing generally keeps you in the dry.