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Roughneck 5" vise tear-down and repair

Beerhippie

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Oct 13, 2023
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10,006
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Far NE Oregon
Having spent the last few evenings and Saturday bringing an old 1911 Reed vice back to life, I felt my daily-user in the shop needed some TLC.

Moving from something considered a high-end, collectable, made in USA tool to what many on the internet seem to consider a piece of MIC junk not worth its weight in scrap metal should be interesting.

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First thing to mention it that this 25-30 year old vise is not the complete POS folks would have you believe. It's spent its life bolted to a work bench in a brewery shop, where it has been used and abused by a lot of different people--not all of them brought up to respect tools. I've used it hard--to the point of what many would call abuse--and it's taken it and still works.

The rotating jaws are a feature I've become so used to that I have trouble using a "normal" vise! A co-worker took it apart a number of years ago and the lock on the rotating mechanism hasn't quite worked right since, so that's one of the thing I want to address today. Otherwise, it's just cleaning the old, grungy lubricants off and refreshing it. Nothing heroic today.

Here it is, broken down, if anyone wonders how a rotating-jaw vise works:

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In the first picture, the long cylinder, below the dynamic jaw and slide, goes through the big bearing surface on the front of the body. It extends to just flush with the similar bearing surface on the back end, where the smaller part to the left of it anchors with the two cap screws. Obviously, there needs to be some play between these two parts, as clamping the jaws shut tightens them together, locking them against the flanges at either end of the body by pulling the nut, mounted to the back half, tight. There is no lock collar. The castellated nut and big washer lock the lead screw in place at the far end of the slide.

Anyhow, the problem I've been having is that I can't get the two ends of the rotating mechanism properly tightened, with them just slopping around or fully locked all the time. Before my earnest co-worker took it apart to "fix" it, there was no play there, but it would occasionally bind up. I'm thinking there should be some sort of spring involved? Maybe two small compression springs or sprung washers on those bolts?

Unfortunately, I didn't have a chance to see it when my co-worker took it apart the first time, so it's all guess work, unless someone here knows what I'm missing.

TFL--
 
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Beerhippie

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Joined
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Far NE Oregon
It's back together and working much more smoothly.

I decided that a couple of sprung washers were what I needed for the rotation lock and for once, the local ACE had just what I was looking for:

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They were just the trick.

I figured I'd add a sintered bronze thrust bearing to the lead screw stop, as it showed a lot of steel-on-steel wear at that point--and ACE had one that fit:

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The bearing also takes up all the slack in the lead screw. I didn't even have to drill a new cotter-pin hole.

I just cleaned the old lube , grinder and shop dust out of it and lubed everything up with some high-pressure Moly grease and dry MolyKote spray. It works much better and the rotation lock is now solid... but if you want a rotating-jaw vice that's smooth as silk, you're looking for something made in the UK and you better have a fat wallet.
 
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Beerhippie

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My 7/8" ID sintered bronze thrust bearing came in on Friday. After giving it a soak in some engine oil, I installed it, drilled a new hole for the cotter pin, and now the vise is done:

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Those thrust bearings look like they were made to fit this application! With one at each end of the lead screw and my longer handle, it runs smoothly and, most importantly, is now very easy to tighten down without a cheater bar or beating on the handle with a hammer. The longer handle also has enough momentum to be easy to finger-spin, with no tendency to slip down through the lead screw head.

$10 worth of thrust bearings and a few minutes to fab a new handle from scrap resulted in a $100 worth of improvement.

I bought two of the 7/8" bearings thinking to use one here and one on my big Reed, but, honestly, the Reed doesn't need it. That puppy is smooth as silk as is.
 
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Beerhippie

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Far NE Oregon
Did the one handle knob fall off or something?
Yep, it fell off. An angle grinder and cut-off wheel often has that effect.

The original handle on this vise was 7" long. To get it tight enough to grip firmly required a cheater bar or some beating on the handle with a hammer. After being spoiled with how easily a Reed vise tightened down, I thought "One of these things is not like the other one." Aside from just about everything, the 4 1/2" Reed has a 12" handle. I cut off the old handle from the Roughneck and made a new, 12" long, handle from some 1/2" SS rod I had in the boneyard. I didn't have any handy ball-ends for it and didn't feel like doing whatever was needed to salvage the old ones from the Roughneck, so I just used a couple of 5/8" SS nuts, welded on and cleaned up with an angle grinder.

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Now I can get it very tight with only one hand.
 
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