Sliding pvc connector-cheaper option?

[bluedog225]

Working on my solar install. I want to come up out of a buried 2” schedule 80 conduit into the bottom of a conex. The conex will be well secured but I suspect there will be differential movement between the soil and the box.

This will work but seems a bit much for 10 cents of plastic. I’m wondering if there are other good solutions. Country place and no inspections.

Thanks

 

[35Ford]

They make a one piece expansion coupling that's a little less money. I prefer the style you posted.

 

[Innovate1]

I have several low voltage buried conduits that need expansion joints. Considering heating up some short lengths of conduit and expanding it for a slip fit over the existing 3/4" PVC and using that. Not code but mine are low voltage and don't even require conduit. The price of expansion joints seems a bit crazy but that's pretty much everything these days...

 

[PCustoms]

It's $30, and fully code compliant.

In the grand scheme of a solar install,is $30 a lot of money?

Have you priced 2" conduit? "10 cents of plastic"

 

[mike93lx]

It's not 10 cents of plastic, though.

Just get that one, it's the right thing for the job. Make sure you install it in the middle of its range

 

[Innovate1]

It's not 10 cents of plastic, though.

Just get that one, it's the right thing for the job. Make sure you install it in the middle of its range

Yes, for a one off I would just get the real thing. I have a few installed. As for positioning I would go a little to more compressed than half way for a buried line. It's going to settle a little. It's good to take temperature into account too as that's the main cause of motion other than settling.

 

[bluedog225]

Thanks guys. Sort of like the $1 for a quarter sized washer at home depot.

It seems foolish or crazy to me to spend so much on something so simple. Every little thing these days.

There is something to be said for the right tool for the job. But there’s also something to be said for not falling for it every time.

 

[Mr onetwo]

quit yer bitchin'

 

[Doozer75]

Stop involving activities of your cheap lifestyle on this message board.
The thought processes of cheap people are so annoying.
It is not about the money.
It is the mentality about trying to shortcut everything in sight.
It gets old.
Not trying to be harsh, but it is so true.
These slip couplings have two O-rings for a perfect moisture tight seal.
I have a few lathes in my shop, and I could still not be bothered to make
one of these out of regular pvc pipe fittings. My time is worth more than
the $30 to buy one. You are wasting your time in this earth living the
cheap lifestyle.
-Doozer

 

[mike93lx]

Stop involving activities of your cheap lifestyle on this message board.
The thought processes of cheap people are so annoying.
It is not about the money.
It is the mentality about trying to shortcut everything in sight.
It gets old.
Not trying to be harsh, but it is so true.
These slip couplings have two O-rings for a perfect moisture tight seal.
I have a few lathes in my shop, and I could still not be bothered to make
one of these out of regular pvc pipe fittings. My time is worth more than
the $30 to buy one. You are wasting your time in this earth living the
cheap lifestyle.

-Doozer

Wow, that's an interesting take.

Might be good to either use that ignore button or take a break

 

[PCustoms]

Is there 2" sealtite?

Would code allow it?

Probably more then $30 for all the fittings though.

 

[Innovate1]

How about this? Arlington fitting to use 2.5" conduit over 2" for meter slip fitting. About $10 from what I see.
https://www.aifittings.com/media/spec-sheets/NM2520.pdf

 

[mike93lx]

How about this? Arlington fitting to use 2.5" conduit over 2" for meter slip fitting. About $10 from what I see.
https://www.aifittings.com/media/spec-sheets/NM2520.pdf

Interesting. The slip couplings I have used had an o ring and a ton of grease

 

[Innovate1]

As long as it's used vertically I don't see the need of a water tight seal that the oring provides. Any outside water will be shed without getting inside. The buried conduit will get some condensation and is considered a wet location so it's not going to be totally dry anyway. And the end of the conduit is often open to a non-airtight box so making it air/water tight is pointless. If the run is horizontal I can see the need for a seal.

 

[mike93lx]

As long as it's used vertically I don't see the need of a water tight seal that the oring provides. Any outside water will be shed without getting inside. The buried conduit will get some condensation and is considered a wet location so it's not going to be totally dry anyway. And the end of the conduit is often open to a non-airtight box so making it air/water tight is pointless. If the run is horizontal I can see the need for a seal.

Agreed. I'd grease it so it can move easily, but I'm sure it works fine

 

[Innovate1]

Although I just noticed the OP is using sch 80 conduit so the Arlington part won't work. there are only a couple size combinations for sch 40 where the next bigger size is just slightly bigger than the OD. Not sure if you could find that match in Sch 80.

 

[PCustoms]

Although I just noticed the OP is using sch 80 conduit so the Anderson part won't work. there are only a couple size combinations for sch 40 where the next bigger size is just slightly bigger than the OD. Not sure if you could find that match in Sch 80.

Re-reading that spec sheet, I don't get it.

So 2.5" slips over 2" conduit?

Then this connector is just a 2.5" to a 2" male thread?

Why not just use a 2.5" threaded connector?

 

[nadogail]

Re-reading that spec sheet, I don't get it.

So 2.5" slips over 2" conduit?

Then this connector is just a 2.5" to a 2" male thread?

Why not just use a 2.5" threaded connector?

Because threaded connectors don’t allow for movement.

 

[PCustoms]

Because threaded connectors don’t allow for movement.

And how does this magic 2.5" conduit to 2" thread adapter fix that?

 

[Innovate1]

And how does this magic 2.5" conduit to 2" thread adapter fix that?

The 2.5 is just big enough to slip over the 2" with a small clearance. No fittings or glue. No thread adapter where the two come together. It's just a big pipe over a slightly smaller pipe. The fitting goes over the end of the 2.5" conduit and has a 2" threaded portion so it can go in a knockout for a 2". If there is a knockout for 2.5" where it connects you could just use a 2.5" male threaded end.

 

[walrus]

2 inch non metallic Liquid Tite, its whats goes to my ground mount inverter from ground. Did it twice as I also have a piece of Cat 6 going from shop to inverter

 

[PCustoms]

The 2.5 is just big enough to slip over the 2" with a small clearance. No fittings or glue. No thread adapter where the two come together. It's just a big pipe over a slightly smaller pipe. The fitting goes over the end of the 2.5" conduit and has a 2" threaded portion so it can go in a knockout for a 2". If there is a knockout for 2.5" where it connects you could just use a 2.5" male threaded end.

I fully understand everything not bold that you wrote.

So the only purpose of the adapter is for smaller knockouts, rather then drilling/punching the 2.5".

 

[Innovate1]

I fully understand everything not bold that you wrote.

So the only purpose of the adapter is for smaller knockouts, rather then drilling/punching the 2.5".

Yes. That's the way I see it at least. And I would think most meter bases have that size knockout so it seems a 2.5" end fitting could be used in most cases. Still interesting that this is available - it shows the sliding arrangement is legit if someone tries to claim it must be sealed or it's not an approved use of materials. Perhaps some hard nosed inspectors would have an issue with it.