What size bar for a Echo CS-4910 chainsaw?

[cosmokenney]

I've never owned a chainsaw before. But since I now live in a more rural area, I need to get one. I will be doing mostly yard work trimming low hanging branches and shrubs. But, after some power outages this winter, I may be putting a wood stove in the house for next winter and would probably start looking for some wood in the nearby forests.
I can't decide between the available 16", 18" or 20" bars. For the foreseeable future, I probably will not be investing in a power splitter anytime soon. So I'll probably only go after smaller trees that I can easily cut with the chainsaw then split with an axe.
Should I go with the 20" bar and just live with it for trimming branches and shrubs? Also will the 20" bar run well on that saw without any modifications to the saw itself?

 

[larry_g]

Bars are not that expensive, you can have two. So I would suggest that you get the long bar and if you find it to big at times then get a short bar and change it. It also makes a small difference if you are cutting soft woods or hard woods. Make sure that you have the correct chain to cut the wood your working with. I would suggest that you seek out a local saw shop and talk with them. You may save a few bucks going with the box store/mailorder but the lessons you can learn at the saw shop are invaluable and focused on your local conditions. The local shop can also give you the parts and help when you need it.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[jpaw]

I have that saw with a 20" bar and it's really too much. It would be great with a 16". Though if it is going to be your only saw I would go 18".
I have 4 saws and that one has a nice power to weight ratio.

 

[dcg9381]

IMHO, if you want to harvest wood, that's one thing. You need a bar meets the size of the trees you're cutting. And you need a saw that can power that size of bar.

What you need to invest in is tools to sharpen the chain, a few extra chains....
Bars and a chains to go with them are cheap. If you want a 20" and a 16" - go for it, they change pretty quick.

You may be surprised how big a pain in the *** a saw is to cut a LOT of wood.

Want to do shrubs and minor branches, my favorite saw by far (and I've had 4) is a Makita 36V. WAY easier.

 

[Wolley]

For your first saw I would go with 16 inch

 

[cosmokenney]

Bars are not that expensive, you can have two. So I would suggest that you get the long bar and if you find it to big at times then get a short bar and change it. It also makes a small difference if you are cutting soft woods or hard woods. Make sure that you have the correct chain to cut the wood your working with. I would suggest that you seek out a local saw shop and talk with them. You may save a few bucks going with the box store/mailorder but the lessons you can learn at the saw shop are invaluable and focused on your local conditions. The local shop can also give you the parts and help when you need it.

lg
no neat sig line

Thanks for the advice.
Note, where I live (96118 zip code), Home Depot is pretty much the closest saw shop. There is another store that is closer in driven miles, but it is on a winding mountain road to get there. Whereas home depot is just off highway 395.

 

[ericm]

For your first saw I would go with 16 inch

Agreed. 18" would be fine too. You can cut a lot of trees with a 16 inch bar. "safety" chain isn't all that much safer, it just reduces the speed of kickback some, but it's fine for a newbie. The one thing it's not as good at is an advanced technique anyhow.

Also since you're a newbie, PLEASE get all the safety gear: chaps, protective boots (steel toe or chainsaw boots), gloves and a helmet with face shield and ear muffs. Husqvarna makes good inexpensive helmets.

A good book on felling and cutting up trees is "To Fell A Tree" by Jepson. I ran saws while in the forest service and still learned a lot from that book.

You'll probably want to learn how to sharpen chains. It's not hard to do. Get a couple extra chains for your bar so you can swap chains when you dull one in the middle of a job. I have a scwrench tool in a holster on my chap belt so I can adjust a chain or swap chains.

 

[Rinspeed]

The longer the bar the better because you will have to bend over less but a longer bar does steal some power. Looks like 20 inch is the longest Echo recommend so that's what I would go with.

 

[PCustoms]

@cosmokenney I strongly suggest finding a real shop with service, even if it's a bit of a drive.

Home depot is not a saw shop, has no service/expert advice and will do nothing outside the 30(?) day return period.

As others have said, get a bar sized appropriately for the work you have and get a power head that matches it. For your first saw, shorter may be better. I would not put a 20" on that saw.

The longer the bar the better because you will have to bend over less but a longer bar does steal some power.

I never understood this. Do people cut with the tip of the saw frequently?

 

[Snapped-off]

18" or 20" is doable with a 50cc. I use yellow/full chisel chain. Green will cut fine too.

Get an appropriate sized round file for the teeth and a flat file for the rakers and you can give it a quick sharpen in the field.

I used to use a dremel at home, but have since upgraded to a chain sharpener.

Also, it's handy to have 2 bars/chains incase you pinch the saw in some wood, just disconnect the bar and make a relief cut with the other bar.

Stay vigilant.

 

[Snapped-off]

I never understood this. Do people cut with the tip of the saw frequently

It's common when bucking wood. Saves a lot of bending over. I wouldn't recommend it to a guy new to working a saw.

 

[PCustoms]

It's common when bucking wood. Saves a lot of bending over. I wouldn't recommend it to a guy new to working a saw.

Limbing maybe....but I'm sure as heck not bucking 20"+ logs with the front half of my bar...

Maybe I don't get it.

 

[Snapped-off]

Limbing maybe....but I'm sure as heck not bucking 20"+ logs with the front half of my bar...

Maybe I don't get it.

28" bar is perfect for bucking. Giant stuff has to get cut normally.

 

[Rinspeed]

@cosmokenney

I never understood this. Do people cut with the tip of the saw frequently?

Hell yes and with the right size tree it's very effective. If you don't want to watch the whole video just skip to minute 9:00. I certainly wouldn't recommend it if you're just starting out though. In a perfect world we would all have a FEL with grapple.

 

[Rinspeed]

If I didn't already have four chains when I bought my 500i I would have went with a 32" bar instead of 25". Like I said though longer bars do rob a little power.

 

[Snapped-off]

If I didn't already have four chains when I bought my 500i I would have went with a 32" bar instead of 25". Like I said though longer bars do rob a little power.

Any updates on the 500i? I don't need one but I want to buy one when I pick up a 261.

 

[Rinspeed]

Any updates on the 500i? I don't need one but I want to buy one when I pick up a 261.

Sadly I don't even have it fully broken in yet. It does rip though and there is zero hesitation when you give it gas. Just going by memory but I think it has something like 1.5 more HP than my MS441 and the 500 weights over 1 pound less. I looked at a lot of specs after I bought it and nothing on the market that I could find has that kind of power to weight ratio. Probably get a muffler for it after I've run a couple tanks of gas through it. It was a lot of money but it's also a lot of saw. I should be able to get $600-650 out of the 441 if I ever find some time to get it cleaned up and listed so that will lessen the sting a bit.

 

[Ton ton]

@cosmokenney I strongly suggest finding a real shop with service, even if it's a bit of a drive.

Home depot is not a saw shop, has no service/expert advice and will do nothing outside the 30(?) day return period.

As others have said, get a bar sized appropriately for the work you have and get a power head that matches it. For your first saw, shorter may be better. I would not put a 20" on that saw.



I never understood this. Do people cut with the tip of the saw frequently?

I do . When you wear chaps to protect your legs it's not that big a deal.

 

[cosmokenney]

Thanks for all the help guys. I bought it with the 18" bar and will be buying a 16" bar/chain next month.

 

[PCustoms]

Thanks for all the help guys. I bought it with the 18" bar and will be buying a 16" bar/chain next month.

Not worth having those 2 sizes IMHO.

Maybe worth having a 2nd bar if there is potential to get the saw stuck.

 

[Sumboodie]

Limbing maybe....but I'm sure as heck not bucking 20"+ logs with the front half of my bar...

Maybe I don't get it.

Why not?

 

[Sumboodie]

Any updates on the 500i? I don't need one but I want to buy one when I pick up a 261.

I bought one not long after it came out. Been a good saw. Have a couple 460s, 362s and a few other beands.

 

[Davefr]

I would highly recommend you get a 20" Sugihara or other lightweight bar. I think Oregon even has a lite version. These lightweight bars give you more reach with no weight penalty compared to shorter bars.

 

[dcg9381]

Probably get a muffler for it after I've run a couple tanks of gas through it. It was a lot of money but it's also a lot of saw. I should be able to get $600-650 out of the 441 if I ever find some time to get it cleaned up and listed so that will lessen the sting a bit.

There is a muffler mod for this one that's documented. It does not appear to have a catalyist.
Echos saws are notorious for being tuned lean on the H end from the factory, something to watch for. The H screw is probably already pretty far out (which is normal for this saw) just fyi.

 

[cosmokenney]

There is a muffler mod for this one that's documented. It does not appear to have a catalyist.
Echos saws are notorious for being tuned lean on the H end from the factory, something to watch for. The H screw is probably already pretty far out (which is normal for this saw) just fyi.

Thanks. I had heard about the muffler mod but wasn't sure if I should do it or not. I also believe I will have some tuning to do right out the box since I'll be using AV Gas in the saw -- like I do with my 2 stroke dirt bike and 2 stroke snowmobile.

 

[woody 73]

I found this for the op 16-18-20 inch bars.

Echo CS-4910 Chainsaw

The Echo CS-4910 Chainsaw has more power than its predecessor, yet weighs less than any other chainsaw in the mid-range class.

opereviews.com

 

[ericm]

Thanks. I had heard about the muffler mod but wasn't sure if I should do it or not. I also believe I will have some tuning to do right out the box since I'll be using AV Gas in the saw -- like I do with my 2 stroke dirt bike and 2 stroke snowmobile.

I recommend not using AV gas in saws. Saws are not highly tuned like dirt bikes. Way fewer HP/cc. They're industrial engines. They don't need high octane fuel. So its a waste of money. Stihl calls for 89 octane, I don't know what Echo calls but I run the same gas in my Echos that I run in the Stihls. Saw exhaust blows right in front of the operator. You will be breathing it. "Low lead" AV gas still has a lot of lead in it. You're breathing it.

If you have E0 locally available at a reasonable price, run that. I don't and have been using E10 for over a decade with no problem. If a saw's going to be sitting for a while I empty the tank and idle the engine to run the carb dry so the gas won't gum up in the carb.

I get a 5 gallon can of 89 or 91 octane E10 and mix up a gallon of premix at a time using high quality synthetic oil. If I don't use the gas in a reasonable period of time I can dump the rest of the 5 gallon can into the truck. Old premix goes into the lawn tractor or log splitter.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

My echo 4910 has the 20" bar; the stihl ms261 the 18". Both do fine bucking felled oaks up to 22". After that, needs more cowbell.

50cc saws are great. Keep them on good fuel, dont use premix. I use premium on all small engines, I go through fuel quickly. Keep the chain sharp and full of oil. Keep it tuned for the season.

For tree pruning and trimming, a stihl 120c 12", Milwaukee Hatchet 6" and a Dewalt 20v pole saw are plenty.

 

[cosmokenney]

I recommend not using AV gas in saws. Saws are not highly tuned like dirt bikes. Way fewer HP/cc. They're industrial engines. They don't need high octane fuel. So its a waste of money. Stihl calls for 89 octane, I don't know what Echo calls but I run the same gas in my Echos that I run in the Stihls. Saw exhaust blows right in front of the operator. You will be breathing it. "Low lead" AV gas still has a lot of lead in it. You're breathing it.

If you have E0 locally available at a reasonable price, run that. I don't and have been using E10 for over a decade with no problem. If a saw's going to be sitting for a while I empty the tank and idle the engine to run the carb dry so the gas won't gum up in the carb.

I get a 5 gallon can of 89 or 91 octane E10 and mix up a gallon of premix at a time using high quality synthetic oil. If I don't use the gas in a reasonable period of time I can dump the rest of the 5 gallon can into the truck. Old premix goes into the lawn tractor or log splitter.

You are also in California. So you know how hard it is to get non-ethanol gas here. Add to that my remoteness and you'll soon realize that AvGas makes sense. In Loyalton there is a gas station but all they have is 87 and Diesel. And, its crappy bottom of the barrel 87 at that -- runs like **** in my jeep. The airport is 20 minutes drive from me. I can pull up and get as much AvGas as I need and be out of there just as fast as if I went to the local gas station. And its only $5.40 there.

 

[Ton ton]

No ethanol gas is $3.99 in Elkton, VA 87 octane.

 

[Rinspeed]

You are also in California. So you know how hard it is to get non-ethanol gas here.

The whole needing non-ethanol gas is absolutely one of the very dumbest things I've heard in the last ten years. Just run the damn thing out of gas if you're not going to use it for four or five weeks. Even dumber are these idiots that think you need to drive to Home Depot and buy a stupid can of premix that costs you $28 a gallon.



ETA; I have several two strokes and have had for 40 years. If you only have a weed wacker a can of premix might make sense as long as you know you're wasting money.

 

[ericm]

The whole needing non-ethanol gas is absolutely one of the very dumbest things I've heard in the last ten years. Just run the damn thing out of gas if you're not going to use it for four or five weeks.

Yep. I have been running E10 in my saws and other equipment for decades with no problems. Sometimes it sits all winter like in the riding mower, and it's still fine. That mower is 26 years old and still had all the original fuel system parts including hoses.

I have use 87 in some of my saws with no issues. Stihl recommends 89 though, and I try to follow their recommendation just in case.

 

[jblnut]

I would highly recommend you get a 20" Sugihara or other lightweight bar. I think Oregon even has a lite version. These lightweight bars give you more reach with no weight penalty compared to shorter bars.

OP if you’re going to spend $$$$ on an additional bar I assure SugiHara are some of the nicest out there. I have a 32” on my 066 Stihl and it weighs the same as the 24” Stihl Rollomatic it replaced. That being said, the fit isn’t something you’ll use for hours and house a day get a cheap bar and run the **** out of it. The weight reduction stuff on shorter bars isn’t that big a deal as it is on longer bars and the weight isn’t having out near as far from the saw.

Welcome to the chainsaw world !! I’d check out ArborsitSite and Outdoor Power Equipment if you’re looking to learn more about anything to do with trees.

 

[cosmokenney]

No ethanol gas is $3.99 in Elkton, VA 87 octane.

The whole needing non-ethanol gas is absolutely one of the very dumbest things I've heard in the last ten years. Just run the damn thing out of gas if you're not going to use it for four or five weeks. Even dumber are these idiots that think you need to drive to Home Depot and buy a stupid can of premix that costs you $28 a gallon.



ETA; I have several two strokes and have had for 40 years. If you only have a weed wacker a can of premix might make sense as long as you know you're wasting money.

Yep. I have been running E10 in my saws and other equipment for decades with no problems. Sometimes it sits all winter like in the riding mower, and it's still fine. That mower is 26 years old and still had all the original fuel system parts including hoses.

I have use 87 in some of my saws with no issues. Stihl recommends 89 though, and I try to follow their recommendation just in case.

I cannot get quality gas here within a reasonable drive. I've been through the whole E10 is fine just run that in your dirt bike thing. I went through a whole summer a few years back where I would have to pull the bowl off my carb every weekend and hit it with carb cleaner in order to get the float un-stuck. As soon as I switched to AvGas, no more stuck float. I let it sit with a\AvGas in the bowl all winter and it started in about 5 or so kicks. You guys won't convince me that the E10 is good to go. And the one and only gas station in town charges $5.20 for 87 octane. The AvGas is cheaper for me and worth the 20 minute drive to get it.

 

[jblnut]

I haven’t had issues with E10 or even E15 in small engines even when they sit for months at a time. Not sure what sorts of funky gas your stations are selling as I doubt the ones around here are that much better.

That being said, I try to run 91 non-oxy in my small engines and have two 5gal cans dedicated to it.

 

[2oolhound]

The longer the bar the better because you will have to bend over less but a longer bar does steal some power. Looks like 20 inch is the longest Echo recommend so that's what I would go with.

I never understood this. Do people cut with the tip of the saw frequently?

If you think about it all bars have the same sized tip so if you are trying to avoid cutting with the tip you'll have to bend over further with the short bar regardless.

The tip is where kickbacks are caused. When cutting from the bottom of the bar the rakers prevent the cutting tooth from digging in too far but at the tip as the chain moves around the end the clearance from the raker is lessened and the tooth can bite deeper until it can't pull the wood out and kicks. Depending on how the chain is sharpened will determine how a saw kicks. I've seen a log builder who could hold his saw vertically in a notch balancing on the tip with the saw reving high and he could spin the saw without it kicking. On the other hand a bucker who bucks logs on a landing all day will file his rakers way down but he can't bore with the tip or use his dogs, however the saw cuts like heck straight down on the bottom of the bar. Buckers often use 28" bars so they aren't bent over all day.

You have to respect the tip of the bar at all times regardless of bar length. This means always being aware of what is near it and also grip the handle firmly with thumb below and fingers over the top of the handle in case of kickbacks.

 

[dcg9381]

Thanks. I had heard about the muffler mod but wasn't sure if I should do it or not. I also believe I will have some tuning to do right out the box since I'll be using AV Gas in the saw -- like I do with my 2 stroke dirt bike and 2 stroke snowmobile.

Interesting. I thought I was the only idiot running 100LL. Now that I can get non-ethanol, it's not a problem, but my saw is tuned for 100LL also. Definitely won't run on 100LL worth a damn out of the box.