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Issue tightening trailer ball...

Innovate1

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Bought a 5000 lb rated 2" ball and putting it on the receiver insert (not sure what it's called) that is also rated 5000 lbs. Both pieces have a very smooth finish so when tightening it the ball spins. It has flats on it - it's bigger than my wrenches but I can probably figure out something to restrain it. But thinking if it turns that easily and doesn't have much friction if may work loose over time. The bottom has a lock washer under the nut and going for called out 250 ft-lb of torque. Any ideas of what to do to increase the friction on the top side? Or is this a non-issue and I should just tighten it up as is?
 
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Farmall450

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I'd just tighten it up with an impact and call it a day
Yeah, this is the best way. Once it gets tight enough they stop spinning anyhow; I've gotten them tight with 1 wrench in a pinch. Reese/Bulldog also makes an "interlock" ball and ball mount which is pretty clever, but I still use a second wrench or it ends up crooked.

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OP, time to buy an 18 or 24" adjustable to hold the top. The nuts are normally 1-1/2 or 1-5/8 for the 7/8 or 1" shanks.
 

RonnieC

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Yeah, this is the best way. Once it gets tight enough they stop spinning anyhow; I've gotten them tight with 1 wrench in a pinch. Reese/Bulldog also makes an "interlock" ball and ball mount which is pretty clever, but I still use a second wrench or it ends up crooked.

1711808098141.png

OP, time to buy an 18 or 24" adjustable to hold the top. The nuts are normally 1-1/2 or 1-5/8 for the 7/8 or 1" shanks.
I use these kind of ball mounts and a dedicated trailer ball wrench (I think HF) that I keep in the truck. No spinning.
 
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Innovate1

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Put a pipe wrench on the flats of the ball flange.
That would work but tear up the nice chrome finish. I'm going to pick up a bigger adjustable wrench. I have seen some pipe wrench style adjustables with flats - think they are called monkey wrenches? Most of the bigger wrenches I see now are crescent wrench style.
 

sparky 1971

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That would work but tear up the nice chrome finish. I'm going to pick up a bigger adjustable wrench. I have seen some pipe wrench style adjustables with flats - think they are called monkey wrenches? Most of the bigger wrenches I see now are crescent wrench style.
Use a pipe wrench on the ball. The trailers gonna scuff it up too, in fact, it needs too since most trailer lights are getting the ground through the frame instead of a ground wire.
 
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Innovate1

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Use a pipe wrench on the ball. The trailers gonna scuff it up too, in fact, it needs too since most trailer lights are getting the ground through the frame instead of a ground wire.
Nope. Trailer light connectors have a ground pin. It may go through the frame of the trailer to the individual lights but it goes through the connector to get to the trailer.
 
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mreisner

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If you just bump it with the impact as in bump bump bump not one solid tightening session you should be able to get it tight enough where you won't need to hold the ball with anything it will just tighten the nut and not spin the ball
 

Old tool guy

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Wedge a piece of 2x4 between the flat under the ball and the riser. Or 1x … whatever fits.
 

JeepYJ

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Are we seriously worrying about scratching the chrome on a trailer hitch now?

I thought the discussion regarding nice paint on welding bottles was absurd…
Next up- how to put tire shine in the tread sipes of your donut spare.
Keep the ball mount stored in a bag in the vehicle when not towing. Wipe it down with greasy rag after use. Solves the rust problem.
 

sparky 1971

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Nope. Trailer light connectors have a ground pin. It may go through the frame of the trailer to the individual lights but it goes through the connector to get to the trailer.
That may be, but it doesn't change the fact that the trailer is gonna scuff the **** out of the ball way more than any pipe wrench will.
 

darkzero

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Once it's that tight, it's not going to loosen.
I don't tow but last year I put on a new ball for my buddy while he was getting other things ready for his RV. I put the ball flats in a vise, tightened the nut w/ lock washer with a ratchet & a cheater, not a very long cheater.

Later on he needed to flip the ball/orientation on the arm he bought. He said he had a heck of a time getting it loose. I'm not very strong either.
 

dvblanch

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Do use some oil on the threaded shank & maybe hold ball in a vice & run the nut all the way up first, This may help keep the ball from spinning on the hitch if it is new
 

Farmall450

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^this

I would not just count on the lock washer. I've seen them come loose, ruins everybody's trip karma.
Make sure you put the lock washer the right way.

It's funny that most conesseuirs of hardware agree that split lock washers aren't really effective (and in some cases are counter effective) but every trailer ball comes with one.
 
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Innovate1

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Make sure you put the lock washer the right way.

It's funny that most conesseuirs of hardware agree that split lock washers aren't really effective (and in some cases are counter effective) but every trailer ball comes with one.
You can't put the lock washer the wrong way. Flip it over and it is exactly the same. Some types have slightly different tooth edge on one side vs. the other but it doesn't change the direction. And the basic ones that come on trailer balls are the same on both sides.
 

Crazyjake8493

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That would work but tear up the nice chrome finish. I'm going to pick up a bigger adjustable wrench. I have seen some pipe wrench style adjustables with flats - think they are called monkey wrenches? Most of the bigger wrenches I see now are crescent wrench style.
It's a trailer hitch. Assuming you ever actually use it to tow, it's going to get scuffed up and rust eventually. I'd put a pipe wrench on the hex under the ball and tighten the bottom nut with an impact. Once that lock nut gets tightened, it's not going anywhere.

Take the hitch out of the receiver when not in use. If it's left in there too long, it'll become one with the truck.
 
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