Speedaire compressor

[WTXTundra]

So I bought a used speedaire compressor 3Z 323E 1 from on older shop hand for 100bucks. Still runs, looks a little weathered but seems to work fine.

Im upgrading from a small 3 gallon craftsman air compressor so im looking forward to having more capacity.

Anyone have any tips on fixing any known Issues with these units? Anything to check out right off the bat? I replaced the drain valve already. I notice the relief valve doesn’t blow when I pull the ring under pressure so that’s gota be replaced.

Thanks for all the help guys.

 

[tarmy]

This is what a clean version looks like

Replace the air intake on the head…under that plate on the right in that pic. My tank needed replacing after 20 or so years. That is great compressor if the tank is good and you clean it up.

 

[WTXTundra]

Gotcha. The air intake has a filter? Or should the entire intake manifold be replaced? Does it get replaced when the hours are due or just when it has signs of wear?

I see you got 10-40w written on there, is that recommended? Or what works better in your application?

 

[nadogail]

Speedair is a ww Grainger house brand, they have an OK reputation. May you enjoy it in Good Health.

 

[tarmy]

Gotcha. The air intake has a filter? Or should the entire intake manifold be replaced? Does it get replaced when the hours are due or just when it has signs of wear?

I see you got 10-40w written on there, is that recommended? Or what works better in your application?

There is a filter media under that plate. I replace mine about every other year. I looked all over for the OEM part and never found it. Made my own. That is what my manual recommends on oil weight.

 

[Jswain]

Make sure you keep it topped up with oil and drain the moisture out of the tank everytime you use it. Check/clean air filter often. Fix all the leaks so if the tank starts leaking you will know to replace it right away. Don't weld on the tank. Make sure all the safety valves are working properly as you've already mentioned. Make sure the pressure switch stops the motor within the tanks limits. Make sure the belts are tensioned properly & check/clean all electrical connections.

Compressors are safe & reliable with just a little bit of maintenance. Skip out on either and they could be a time bomb.

 

[micromind]

It's best to use non-detergent oil in a compressor, the reason being that detergent oil keeps particles suspended in the oil and there's no filter to trap them they get into close tolerance parts and do bad things.

Non-detergent oil will allow the bad particles to settle at the bottom of the oil sump rather than circulate them and wear stuff out early.

If the compressor has an oil filter (this one doesn't, some larger ones do) then it's best to use a detergent oil.

 

[lilredex]

Here's my version, started with the tank with an undersized motor and head, about forty years ago. Soon upgraded the head and a two HP motor....smooth sailing since.

 

[WTXTundra]

I really appreciate you guys for the info. Nothing like being around true life experience when you work in the garage.

Another question. What relief valve do I need The numbers off my prv are faded.

 

[The Cobbler]

you seldom need to change the pressure relief valve. you can easily test it by running the compressor up to full and pulling the ring . with not too much force it should pop open , let the pressure down & then close .

 

[WTXTundra]

Yes sir. Thats why I want to replace it. The spring is tight but it’s hard to pull. I’ll try it out again.

I really want to replace the regulator. Any suggestions? What is the pressure rating of the tank? I’ve read some only pressure up to 90. I thought 120 was common with a releif valve at 125psig.

 

[WTXTundra]

Does anyone recommend a repair kit for the compressor. Mines got an oil leak and the oils is very dark so it’s due for a change.

 

[The Cobbler]

if you run some fine sandpaper on the valve where the specs are, it should make it legible

 

[The Cobbler]

can you tell where the oil is leaking from?
an oil change never hurts. you may find years of sludge settled to the bottom of the pan too

 

[WTXTundra]

No sir I can’t. I’ll do an oils change, clean it up and run it to see if I can source it.

Took the top cap off thinking the air filter was up here. Is this normal looking? Kinda dark and oily?

 

[tarmy]

See in this pic where I labeled the air intake/filter area. Yours should be the same. Other side from where you took that top piece of. Basically there is a set of channels in there…sorta weird the way it is…

 

[WTXTundra]

I’m just assuming, it should be as clean as possible right? Do I just clean the inside with the carb cleaner?

 

[isb cornbinder]

I ran one of those Speedair compressors for over 20 years. I ran it an nearly twice the suggested maximum RPM.
The compressor became to hot to touch. I added a box-fan to help with the cooling. I gave the compressor to a friend in 2006. It still runs well.
I have an Ingersoll T30/80 .

 

[WTXTundra]

I ran one of those Speedair compressors for over 20 years. I ran it an nearly twice the suggested maximum RPM.
The compressor became to hot to touch. I added a box-fan to help with the cooling. I gave the compressor to a friend in 2006. It still runs well.
I have an Ingersoll T30/80 .

Dam what an upgrade. Well done man. I’m hoping this unit will last me a while.

 

[isb cornbinder]

Dam what an upgrade. Well done man. I’m hoping this unit will last me a while.

I would bet on it lasting. Pushing it like I did was a big risk.

 

[WTXTundra]

Tearing in to this thing. You guys let me know what yall think. I’m all for constructive criticism and some deconstructive as well. Haha

 

[The Cobbler]

looks like the filters are missing or disintegrated .

 

[The Cobbler]

as far as cleaning it up, how far do you want to dig in to it?
I would be tempted to clean up any big stuff that could loosen & get sucked in, and leave the rest . if you plan on doing a full tear down , then you have a project on your hands
I guess I would decide if I want a user or a show piece and make my decision . most of my stuff is user, but I do like nice clean too.
Case in point, I have a project on the go where I took an older Craftsman piston compressor & motor and mounted it to a vertical tank that had an oiless that I sold off some parts . the piston pump had dirty crappy oil with tons of sludge . I rinsed it out with oil thinned with mineral spirits till I got most of it out. fabbed up bracketry , made a bracket for a better filter system, and so on. I am making it look nice, but not worrying too much about the internals

 

[WTXTundra]

Gotcha. Yea I don’t want a show piece. This is going to be my work horse. I won’t use it much until project time.

I want to make sure to clean and repair what’s needed to ensure longevity so hunting for the right part numbers what I’m on now. Looks like I need gaskets for sure, find the leak cause the oil level is low, and replace the regulator set up.

Final touch will be to paint it and add a speedaire sticker

 

[walta]

First turn the unit on its side look at the bottom of the tank look for evidence of misguided repairs IE screws and non-factory welding any repairs are bad news and would condemn the tant to the scrap yard in my shop it is literally a time bomb.

If the oils is as dark as you say it seems likely the compressor has not been well maintained. The correct oil would be non-detergent so without a filter all the sludge is intended to settle to the bottom of the crankcase. After 4 oil changes it was still dirty when I opened the crankcase, I found ½ an inch of slime.

Walta

 

[WTXTundra]

First turn the unit on its side look at the bottom of the tank look for evidence of misguided repairs IE screws and non-factory welding any repairs are bad news and would condemn the tant to the scrap yard in my shop it is literally a time bomb.

If the oils is as dark as you say it seems likely the compressor has not been well maintained. The correct oil would be non-detergent so without a filter all the sludge is intended to settle to the bottom of the crankcase. After 4 oil changes it was still dirty when I opened the crankcase, I found ½ an inch of slime.

Walta

Thanks for the help Walta. I’m green when it comes to maintaining this compressor so I looked up a manual. It says to use SAE 10-40 detergent oil but I see on here you guys say non detergent. Any clarification?

 

[tarmy]

looks like the filters are missing or disintegrated .

So his looks like mine did. There was a wad of **** in there that was sucked in and no filter. I bought some fibrous filter material and made one for that intake channel.

Tearing in to this thing. You guys let me know what yall think. I’m all for constructive criticism and some deconstructive as well. Haha

I looked everywhere for an actual filter to fit in there, never found one. Either cut some material to fit or figure out how to mill something to attach and aftermarket canister filter to the intake area…my .02.

 

[WTXTundra]

Time to get crafty. I’ll run my two brain cells together and come up with something.

 

[The Cobbler]

Time to get crafty. I’ll run my two brain cells together and come up with something.

I'd probably drill 2 holes in the top of that metal cover, add some elbows. a tee and a screw on canister filter , or drill & tap the holes and add 2 canister filters

 

[johnre]

A good additional check is to run a borescope into the inlet pipe fitting and have a look at the bottom of the tank - that will show much better the condition of the tank than looking at the outside. If you don't have one, they can be gotten rather inexpensively and run from a smartphone or laptop.

 

[tarmy]

I'd probably drill 2 holes in the top of that metal cover, add some elbows. a tee and a screw on canister filter , or drill & tap the holes and add 2 canister filters

That would be the best. Much quieter too. Mine is kept in a separate side room to my shop so noise isn’t and issue.

OP…if you go this route that intake notch area would need to be sealed…otherwise **** will continue in the side port. Should be doable with some metal plate milled to sit in that…

 

[WTXTundra]

So I’m back at it again. Looks like there’s either an oil tap or exhaust tap on the shaft of the compressor. Not sure what is for.

I’m about to do an oil change. Just took it apart to give it a wash.

 

[WTXTundra]

Also, I tested my relief valve and the tag says its rated to 115 psig but I tested it 3 times and it popped the first time at 100, the 2nd and third at 95psig.

The pressure switch is a 80/100.

Any suggestions?

 

[micromind]

I'd get a new valve. Not too much $$$ and something that's pretty important.

 

[The Cobbler]

are you basing the pressure on using a known accurate gauge?

 

[WTXTundra]

Yes sir. I’ve got a certified digital gauge from work. Hooked it up to my nitrogen bottle and ran it up a few times.

 

[WTXTundra]

So a dumb question. I changed the oil on the compressor and ran it for a couple of minutes. It didn’t turn off and it looks like a have a leak under where the pressure switch is located.

I went to touch the discharge copper tube from the compressor to the tank and it was extremely hot. Is this normal? Should the tank be warm to the touch also while air is being compressed?

 

[Jswain]

What pressure did it pump up to without turning off? You could try adjusting the pressure switch with the power disconnected to cutout earlier. If it's not adjustable or if the contacts are welded shut it may be time to replace.

Yes the discharge tube will be hot enough to burn when compressing air. Tank will get warm as well if it's running for awhile

 

[The Cobbler]

what pressure did you pump too?
and yes, air gets hot when it compresses , that's normal

 

[WTXTundra]

It didn’t turn off. I only ran it a few minutes. It got up to about 65psig bit when I felt the discharge tube and the warm tank, I turned it off. The leak under the pressure switch was loud enough that I heard it over the compressor.