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Looking for a recommendation on a tool set to keep in the truck

308guru

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Jun 17, 2017
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I’m interested in putting a simple tool kit in the truck (2013 F150 so of course I need tools close at hand). Just looking for some essentials to have with primarily while on road trips across the country but I’d leave in in there daily too if it fits out of the way. Of course it’s impossible to have every tool for every possible scenario but I figure a basic set is better than nothing.

- Ideally all metric as there’s no SAE on the truck. Is it possible to get kits like this in all metric? SAE seems like a waste of money and space for this application.
- In a case for easy storage and transport.
- Budget friendly!!!
- Wrenches, ratchets/sockets, screwdriver, pliers.
- If the set is short something I deem necessary I can put whatever that tool is in another bag for the trip.
- Quality not a top concern as these will (hopefully) rarely be used.

I’m leaving the budget somewhat open ended which isn’t super helpful for recommendations, but let’s say $100 or less as a starting point. I’m envisioning something like this Craftsman.

Recommendations please. Where are the smokin deals these days?

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bulletpruf

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I’m interested in putting a simple tool kit in the truck (2013 F150 so of course I need tools close at hand). Just looking for some essentials to have with primarily while on road trips across the country but I’d leave in in there daily too if it fits out of the way. Of course it’s impossible to have every tool for every possible scenario but I figure a basic set is better than nothing.

- Ideally all metric as there’s no SAE on the truck. Is it possible to get kits like this in all metric? SAE seems like a waste of money and space for this application.
- In a case for easy storage and transport.
- Budget friendly!!!
- Wrenches, ratchets/sockets, screwdriver, pliers.
- If the set is short something I deem necessary I can put whatever that tool is in another bag for the trip.
- Quality not a top concern as these will (hopefully) rarely be used.

I’m leaving the budget somewhat open ended which isn’t super helpful for recommendations, but let’s say $100 or less as a starting point. I’m envisioning something like this Craftsman.

Recommendations please. Where are the smokin deals these days?

I have an older version of that kit in my daily driver Yukon. It's pretty good, but I supplement it with a small tool bag with a hammer, duct tape, bungee cords, vise grips, and some radiator hose repair tape. The only thing I don't like about this kit - the ratchets. The teeth are so coarse that I hate using them. Too used to the high tooth count ratchets, I guess.

There's also the Harbor Freight kit; it's cheaper, but tools are low quality.
 

AEAdam

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I drive a 2013 F150 XL old man truck. RWD, 3.7, wind up windows. I bought it in 2016 with 100,000miles on it. I now have 185k and it’s been pretty flawless, so not sure what your talking about.

I had the transmission shift problem that was recalled. Scared the hell out of me. Driving along at speed, truck suddenly shifts into 1st gear. Googled it, took it to the dealer and it’s fixed. I put a new radio with nav and apple car play and a back up cam in (love that). And I line-x‘d the 8’ bed (Love it).

I think you can change the head lights without tools. Brake lights you need either a #2 phillips or a 8 or 10mm?. Kinda forget. It’s easy to work on. I’ve replaced the battery and starter, and the water pump. Its due for a tune up.

I do not believe you need a large socket set in your truck. And if you think you will work on your truck away from home, you’d better have pretty nice torx bit sockets and long handled ratchets.

I carry a set of ratcheting wrenches, a set of shallow 3/8” drive hardware store sockets, a couple 4 in 1 screwdrivers, pliers, cutters, plastic prybars, and a cheap set of torx sockets. I have a bluepoint micro scan I always carry. Oh also a hemostat for pulling fuses, an assortment of fuses and electrical tape. Also a couple pairs of nitrile gloves.

My advice is be realistic about what specifically you might need tools for. I think a lot of GJers like the idea of carrying tools, but 99% will never use them for their intended purpose. I’ve used my tool kit to fix my kids cars mostly. The scanner gets the most use.

What I should be carrying is an impact gun, set of wheel sockets, a pry bar and a hammer. Beyond that, I probably don’t need much. We all should carry fire extinguishers and first aid kits with maxi pads or chest seals like we had in the military. People have first aid kits with bandaids!

If you really think you might need tools roadside, you might be better off with 1/2” drive and a SHLF80 or comparable Taiwan ratchet.
 

dscheidt

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What are you actually going to do on the truck on the road? Change a battery, a light bulb, a belt if you carry one? Anything else will require parts you won't get at a gas station. So carry whatever you need to do those things. Maybe a meter if you know how to use one (and stuff to repair a broken wire, if you can do that). But for anything else, you're headed to the parts store. Apparently little known fact about places that sell auto parts: They also sell tools. So, if you do decide to replace your starter at a camp ground, the place that sells you a starter will sell you tools to replace it with!

That example isn't random, I drove a guy to town to get a starter and tools to replace the starter on his RV. (and in the end, I actually did the replacing. he tried, and was talking to his buddy on the phone for advice. It was a Ford E-350 or 450 with a modular engine, i've done lots of them, and dead easy.
 

oldschoolcraft

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are you looking to have a tool kit to fix other people's cars too?

I used to think of having a full mechanics set in my vehicle and recently I realized the only fasteners in my Japanese car that are in the engine compartment are 8mm, 10mm, 12mm and 14mm. There's 17mm and 19mm on my vehicle as well as some in the 20mm+ range but they are not in places that I might possibly deal with on the side of the road. I won't be changing axles or my transmission from a mobile tool kit on the breakdown lane.

I'm in the process of putting together a "My Car" kit that has a few sockets and wrenches of just those 4 sizes. It will take up significantly less space and for the same budget, I could buy Koken sockets for the same price as I could buy a cheaper company's full set.
 

Johnny_opm

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Nov 28, 2023
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If you're planning on working on your own car then I wouldn't even bother with a pre-made tool kit. At least IMO it's a waste of space and you can get better more usable stuff just carrying the sizes you need.

I bought one of those tool rolls with the big zipper pockets on Amazon and I keep just the 6 sizes I need. Chrome shallow and deep 1/4" drive sockets, then impact shallow and deep in 3/8" because I keep my stubby impact in my car. Some ratchet wrenches, various pliers, hex and torx keys, bit driver, hose clamps, spare belt, light bulbs, and fuses. Also keep all the common lug nut sizes in 1/2" and a breaker bar more for helping out others.

The most useful things to me by far have been zip ties, tire plugs, impact, tire pump, and my jump pack. Also the cheap cordless drill to crank up the scissor jack my car came with.

I get a lot of **** for keeping power tools in my car but idc. With how people drive staring at their phone more than the road and with how brutal north Dakota winters can get I have my spare on in about 10min. If they got stolen I'd replace them the same day.
 

oldschoolcraft

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I have timed myself changing a flat tire using a tire iron in about 5 minutes. Most the time is getting the jack from the trunk and taking everything out of the trunk to access the spare.

I have heard a few people say to keep an impact in the car to have civil tire changes. I never thought the 4-way tire iron was particularly bad. Is it harder on larger vehicles and trucks? Maybe because I drive a smaller car, the lug nuts dont have as many threads to go on, but maybe on a truck the studs are longer, more threads, more torque, harder to do?

I squat, use two hands to break it, and then I can spin it easily with the two arms that stick out perpependicular. I also taped the side to mark which one is my car. Then putting them back on I do 2 at a time with my fingers until they get on most of the way and then finish with the tire iron. I do have an M12 impact wrench I dont use much, and maybe I'll allocate it to emergency car duty.

Actually I need to get some of my wheels re-balanced, I will time myself how long it takes to do by hand versus with an impact wrench. I've never done it with the impact before, I'm afraid of stripping the studs. I lack experience so I dont have that magic touch of knowing when to stop.
 

AEAdam

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I have timed myself changing a flat tire using a tire iron in about 5 minutes. Most the time is getting the jack from the trunk and taking everything out of the trunk to access the spare.

I have heard a few people say to keep an impact in the car to have civil tire changes. I never thought the 4-way tire iron was particularly bad. Is it harder on larger vehicles and trucks? Maybe because I drive a smaller car, the lug nuts dont have as many threads to go on, but maybe on a truck the studs are longer, more threads, more torque, harder to do?
Yeah. Torques are higher and trucks like mine could get so little maintenance, I could have stuck lugs right now. With an impact, you jack the car, zip off the lugs and off comes the wheel. No squatting, no wrenching your back. You can change a tire in a business suit and not get too dirty. You can also stop and help someone stranded. No, there aren’t more threads per se and that isn’t a factor.
 

bobg03

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There comes a time in ones life when carrying 500 pounds of tools around is a waste of time. My light came on at 45YO when I realized this.

Modern cars are pretty tough, hell even modern shitboxes are. A credit card, a AAA card and a cell phone will suffice.

For simple stuff, I have a leatherman, a Klien 11-1, a 6" adjustable, a 10mm wrench and a small pair of knipex along w/a 4 way lug wrench and that is probably overkill.
 

FigN⋅m

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...
I used to think of having a full mechanics set in my vehicle and recently I realized the only fasteners in my Japanese car that are in the engine compartment are 8mm, 10mm, 12mm and 14mm. There's 17mm and 19mm on my vehicle as well as some in the 20mm+ range but they are not in places that I might possibly deal with on the side of the road. I won't be changing axles or my transmission from a mobile tool kit on the breakdown lane.
...
Wheeling and DD'ing a 90's Toyota 4x4 w/o locking hubs has prompted me to carry a spare CV, 35mm socket and prybar, JIC!
 

bobg03

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Lots of statements that I don’t need a tool kit, won’t have what I need, didn’t have the right tool for my ‘86 Chevy, etc.

Anybody have any suggestions on the originally asked question?
Only you can decide what will be pertinent to your usage/needs.

I carried an older (mid 80's) Craftsman blowmolded container with all 3 sizes of drives and an assortment of wrenches (both in SAE and Metric), the top of the blowmolded container had an open compartment with a snap on cover where I kept an assortment of pliers and screwdrivers and a hammer and hacksaw, it lived in my suburban and filled any need I had when traveling with an RV or a boat or towing my hot rod to a show. I also had a chest where I carried belts for the tow vehicle and the hot rod, spark plugs for the boat, the tow vehicle and the hot rod, a jug of antifreeze, a quart of oil, etc, etc...

None of it was worth a **** when I blew the motor in the Burb in Maryland on 95 7 hours south of my home with another 7 hours to my destination.

I built that conglomeration of **** based on my needs without the internet to guide me and it served me well for 20+ years. YMMV
 

dchawk81

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I have this thing where I'll take care of my truck in general, and also replace anything and everything remotely borderline before I go on a road trip.
 

dchawk81

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I have timed myself changing a flat tire using a tire iron in about 5 minutes. Most the time is getting the jack from the trunk and taking everything out of the trunk to access the spare.

I have heard a few people say to keep an impact in the car to have civil tire changes. I never thought the 4-way tire iron was particularly bad. Is it harder on larger vehicles and trucks? Maybe because I drive a smaller car, the lug nuts dont have as many threads to go on, but maybe on a truck the studs are longer, more threads, more torque, harder to do?

I squat, use two hands to break it, and then I can spin it easily with the two arms that stick out perpependicular. I also taped the side to mark which one is my car. Then putting them back on I do 2 at a time with my fingers until they get on most of the way and then finish with the tire iron. I do have an M12 impact wrench I dont use much, and maybe I'll allocate it to emergency car duty.

Actually I need to get some of my wheels re-balanced, I will time myself how long it takes to do by hand versus with an impact wrench. I've never done it with the impact before, I'm afraid of stripping the studs. I lack experience so I dont have that magic touch of knowing when to stop.
My pickup has 8 lugs per wheel at 140ft-lbs installed. They're probably a bit tighter by now. Doing them with a 4 way makes me exhausted just thinking about it.
 

KSJeff

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Can't speak to the quality, but this is about the best reviewed all metric box I could see.

Here's the cheapest place I could find it:

I buy stuff from Aliexpress all the time, but I know some people don't like it.

I think you'd be better off buying a small bag that fits and put in a good 3/8 and 1/4 metric socket set and metric wrench set with the pliers you want. Good luck!
 
OP
3

308guru

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I have this thing where I'll take care of my truck in general, and also replace anything and everything remotely borderline before I go on a road trip.
I subscribe to this mindset as well. Overmaintained is my MO.

There are some time you just never know what is going to happen though and I prefer to be somewhat prepared vs. completely unprepared.
 
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dchawk81

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I subscribe to this mindset as well. Overmaintained is my MO.

There are some time you just never know wjat is going to happen though and I prefer to be somewhat prepared vs. completely unprepared.
That whole "never know" part is why I barely bother. My luck would be having every tool EXCEPT the one I needed.

I do carry stuff in my semi truck due to various things I've come across and am likely to come across again but it's more for the unknown trailers I pick up than my truck.
 

Terra Nova

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Don't rule out SAE tools immediately. Even though your truck doesn't have any standard fasteners on it, any trailer you may pull or accessories on the truck will be SAE. I've used my truck tools to help other people far more times than myself; stop by the in-laws and their furnace is out, or a problem with someones camper, etc. Lots of times SAE comes into the picture.
 
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JeepYJ

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Lots of statements that I don’t need a tool kit, won’t have what I need, didn’t have the right tool for my ‘86 Chevy, etc.

Anybody have any suggestions on the originally asked question?
What do you plan on fixing along the road? Do you keep any spare parts with you? If not, there’s not much to fix without a visit to a store which will also have tools for sale.
If you want to have some tools JIC then just order a set off Amazon or if you want to spend a little more Tekton or Capri or HF.
 

Boogerman

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I’m interested in putting a simple tool kit in the truck........
- Quality not a top concern as these will (hopefully) rarely be used.
Rather than looking for the smoking deal to put a bunch of cheap **** in your vehicle, I'd approach it another way. If you need a tool on the road, you need the best you can get, you don't need something that won't work when it's all you have. I'd buy the best I can get, not look for a bargain. Otherwise, why bother?

I'm with most on here, unless you deliberately drive stuff that regularly breaks down, the chances of having something go wrong that you can fix are pretty low. But, I have a lot of use for tools on the road; I may pick up a piece of equipment at an opportunity that comes up that needs partial disassembly to load, for instance. Or help someone else out. To accommodate that, I want tools of at least the quality I use at home, preferably the top end of what I use at home.

I made up a box of tools for this sort of use that I carry in my vehicles when I get more than an hour or so from home. (It normally resides in one vehicle, switch it to others as needed). It has a metric wrench set and some common SAE sizes, a couple of adjustable wrenches, a full metric and SAE socket set in 1/4" drive, a 3/8" drive ratchet and sae and metric sockets, a 1/4" insert bit set that's pretty comprehensive with a ratcheting screwdriver, a couple of flat screwdrivers, water pump pliers and regular pliers and Talon needle nose, some wire, a hammer, electrical tape, flat, triangular and round files. The whole set fits in a box that's about 12 x12 x 5 inches. Top quality tools I put together out of spares I got cheap at yard sales, but if purchased new would be maybe $700 off the Snap on truck. Less if bought with Williams or Proto or similar online.

Today I'm going to pick up a few pieces of large machine tools. I will be taking along a 150+ pound road box of tools, that contains what most tool people have in their HF or CM roll-away, except my set is all Snap-on. This is my professional working on the road box, that I rely on for critical work. I don't want to get to the site which has no tools on hand, and need something to disassemble or disconnect the machines and not have it. That box, which I've developed over a number of years, has 1/4, 3/8, 1/2" sets, regular and deep, metric and SAE of sockets with appropriate ratchets. Full set of screwdrivers in addition to 1/4" insert bits. Swivel, torx, hex, etc sockets. 2 full sets of wrenches in both SAE and Metric. Files, wire, tape, multiple types of pliers. Hammer, chisels, punches. Again, top quality stuff, when you need it, you need it to work and not break. That box is worth a decent used car price.

To answer your original question: If you need a set to work on your car, put together a specific set of sockets and wrenches in the sizes on your car, plus pliers, screwdrivers, hammer and sundry supplies. Make it up out of top quality tools, and get a box that holds it all conveniently. If you need a more general set, put together something like I described above that includes all sizes, not just for your vehicle. But, don't look for a bargain, buy at least the quality you would use at home, or better. Of course, all this goes out the window if you use stuff at home like the set you put in your post. In that case, just buy whatever is cheapest, it won't matter to you anyway.
 
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Joemctag

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I have timed myself changing a flat tire using a tire iron in about 5 minutes. Most the time is getting the jack from the trunk and taking everything out of the trunk to access the spare.

I have heard a few people say to keep an impact in the car to have civil tire changes. I never thought the 4-way tire iron was particularly bad. Is it harder on larger vehicles and trucks? Maybe because I drive a smaller car, the lug nuts dont have as many threads to go on, but maybe on a truck the studs are longer, more threads, more torque, harder to do?

I squat, use two hands to break it, and then I can spin it easily with the two arms that stick out perpependicular. I also taped the side to mark which one is my car. Then putting them back on I do 2 at a time with my fingers until they get on most of the way and then finish with the tire iron. I do have an M12 impact wrench I dont use much, and maybe I'll allocate it to emergency car duty.

Actually I need to get some of my wheels re-balanced, I will time myself how long it takes to do by hand versus with an impact wrench. I've never done it with the impact before, I'm afraid of stripping the studs. I lack experience so I dont have that magic touch of knowing when to stop.
Probably a lot of us run the nuts up and then a few chucks of the impact, then use the four way. They tell me that tire shops do this now, but with a torque wrench for the final. Ensures no over- or under-torquing.
A tire shop, using an air impact, by apparently over-tightening, made it so that, from then on, I couldn’t run the nuts on and off with fingers but had to use a wrench all the way. Eight bolt Chevy C20.
 

lund

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I have a hard time understanding this obsession some have with car tool kits. With all due respect, it seems many of the people who do this for some sort of travel security on long trips are thinking backwards. You cannot fix much on a car without parts. You should ask yourself what you are likely to need to do that is recoverable when stranded on the side of the road. Have key parts and the minimum tools to do those specific jobs. Some general purpose stuff for whatever use and unanticipated stuff. Probably a multimeter, fuses, a compact battery pack jump starter and stuff like that is more realistic to help with something recoverable. Extra oil, fluids, stuff to repair hoses etc. If you are helping out others at home with access to parts the story can be different. An extended tow contract can also be helpful to get to a position where you can do real work (needing more tools) yourself or hiring someone ;)

When I was young, I had an unreliable junker of a car with a lot of key parts and tools in the back. Of course the car sometimes had problems when I was giving people lifts. They would nervously ask what I was going to do when stranded. I would glare and say we were going to fix it pointing to the back and that only wimps or commies call AAA for help. I did not get a lot of repeat ride requests! It was fun in an odd sort of way most have no sympathy for. But I have to admit it is awkward at best doing any serious work on the side of the road. And I used to wonder why I was so unpopular ...
 

dchawk81

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I have a hard time understanding this obsession some have with car tool kits. With all due respect, it seems many of the people who do this for some sort of travel security on long trips are thinking backwards. You cannot fix much on a car without parts. You should ask yourself what you are likely to need to do that is recoverable when stranded on the side of the road. Have key parts and the minimum tools to do those specific jobs. Some general purpose stuff for whatever use and unanticipated stuff. Probably a multimeter, fuses, a compact battery pack jump starter and stuff like that is more realistic to help with something recoverable. Extra oil, fluids, stuff to repair hoses etc. If you are helping out others at home with access to parts the story can be different. An extended tow contract can also be helpful to get to a position where you can do real work (needing more tools) yourself or hiring someone ;)

When I was young, I had an unreliable junker of a car with a lot of key parts and tools in the back. Of course the car sometimes had problems when I was giving people lifts. They would nervously ask what I was going to do when stranded. I would glare and say we were going to fix it pointing to the back and that only wimps or commies call AAA for help. I did not get a lot of repeat ride requests! It was fun in an odd sort of way most have no sympathy for. But I have to admit it is awkward at best doing any serious work on the side of the road. And I used to wonder why I was so unpopular ...
The alternative is to proactively fix your **** while it's at home.
 

Steve_P

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Again, no one is answering the question. "Should I carry a tool kit?" isn't what he asked. We went thru this same thing a few months ago in a similar thread.

I have a basic tool kit in my truck. 8-19mm wrenches and sockets, 1/4 and 3/8 ratchets, a few extensions, torx bits, bit screwdriver, a few pliers, vise grips...., wire ties, duct tape, breaker bar and socket for tire changes. And I've used it for basic repairs on vehicles. All of it is in a tool roll less the breaker bar. You can build a small kit like this with Pittsburg, Tekton... and your choice of a tool roll. Tekton, HF.... all make socket sets in nice cases if you want to go that route.

Project Farm did a test on tool kits if you want to buy something in a huge case.
 

lund

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The alternative is to proactively fix your **** while it's at home.
Agree. I do that. But in the case quoted, I was given a worthless "free" car with 250k miles on it with poor prior maintenance in the rust belt. So it was a **** shoot what was going to go. Particularly at first.

With my cars since that beast, I do preventive maintenance from a good baseline and I (knock knock) have not been stranded yet.
 

Kurt4440

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Lots of statements that I don’t need a tool kit, won’t have what I need, didn’t have the right tool for my ‘86 Chevy, etc.

Anybody have any suggestions on the originally asked question?

I have an assortment of tools in my Ford, I didn't want to carry around a bunch of SAE tools so I purchased some Tekton wrenches and a socket set. Then I took some of my extra pliers, screwdrivers, 1/2" sockets, 1/2" breaker bar............

Screenshot_20240509-153448(1).png
 

oldschoolcraft

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The main question I have with this kind of scenario is:

What is it feasible for you to do on your vehicle when you aren't home? Obvious basic stuff like changing a battery or topping off fluids.

Which then invites the question - if you need more fluids, how much might you need? If you run into a scenario where you need a gallon of oil, then that's not a survivable field situation. You blew your oil pan. But maybe you are slowly leaking or burning a very small amount of oil over time, and you are just a tad low. Then 1 quart will resolve that situation long enough for you to get home and troubleshoot.

Now let's say you need coolant. If you're just a tad low, due to a minor leak, then putting a small amount of water in there won't hurt it much. And you are probably going to flush it after fixing the leak anyway. So I wouldn't find it helpful to keep a quart of antifreeze in the car because a quart of water will work just fine. And please dont tell me you dont keep water for emergency purposes but have a 50 pound toolkit LOL

But maybe you blow a hose due to a faulty clamp or hose end, and you can reattach it, but now you've lost your entire tank of coolant. You're going to need a gallon or more.

My point is to work backwards from what you might be able to fix and survive that doesnt require towing. From there, I think 1 quart of oil and 1 gallon of premixed antifreeze would work. If you live in a place that doesnt drop below freezing, maybe you just have 2+ gallons of water in the car and you can put pure water in the radiator for the time being.
 

oldschoolcraft

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I do think there's an advanced level that people dont think about. Suppose you're doing a road trip from SF to Las Vegas. Now you're in Las Vegas and your radiator goes. In spite of your best premaintance. You need a new radiator. You can call AAA and have them tow the car 600 miles back to your house. Or you can have AAA tow the car to some local shop that you never dealt with, have no idea about how trustworthy they are, and won't be able to get any warranty repairs if something breaks since they're in another state.

OR

You can leave the car where it is, take an Uber to an auto parts store, buy the new radiator and coolant, Uber back to wherever the car is. Possibly even WALK because in a big city there's probably an auto parts store within a mile. And if you have a common car they might stock some radiators.

Now you have the basic set of tools in your car to replace the radiator on the side of the road. At least with my car, I dont need to jack the car up. It's a few bolts, a few hoses, and it snaps in place.

Yes, the auto shop store will sell or sometimes rent tools. But I'm already unhappy about the fact that I'm wasting my vacation time on this, and their tools will be garbage and overpriced for what they are. Given my car uses primary 8, 10, 12, 14 inside the engine compartment, by having a very streamlined set of sockets and wrenches, I can have a high quality set tailored to my car that can let me replace the radiator with minimal tool-based frustration.

I can also replace a waterpump on the side of the road without much hassle, as long as I have the right tools. The tools the auto parts store sells are not only cheap, but they won't be the specialized ones I need to go straight to the water pump. I might have to take half the car apart to get to it.

So there's a middle ground between "just carry a cell phone and call AAA" and "replacing the transmission on the side of the interstate"

It's very possible I'm in Las Vegas, my car is parked in a strip mall as I go in to eat at a restaurant, I come out and see coolant all over the ground, I walk one block to Autozone and buy a radiator or waterpump, and with my pre-made toolset designed for my car, am able to do the job with minimal hassle.

What did it cost me? I have to spend some money on tools (which I like to do anyway) And keep a small pouch of a few different types of 8, 10, 12, 14 sockets, and a few styles of wrenches, and a ratchet. Takes up very little space, was fun to assemble, and as an insurance policy of having to choose to do my own car repair in a strip mall parking lot, is worthwhile to me.
 

dchawk81

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Jul 31, 2014
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14,369
I do think there's an advanced level that people dont think about. Suppose you're doing a road trip from SF to Las Vegas. Now you're in Las Vegas and your radiator goes. In spite of your best premaintance. You need a new radiator. You can call AAA and have them tow the car 600 miles back to your house. Or you can have AAA tow the car to some local shop that you never dealt with, have no idea about how trustworthy they are, and won't be able to get any warranty repairs if something breaks since they're in another state.

OR

You can leave the car where it is, take an Uber to an auto parts store, buy the new radiator and coolant, Uber back to wherever the car is. Possibly even WALK because in a big city there's probably an auto parts store within a mile. And if you have a common car they might stock some radiators.

Now you have the basic set of tools in your car to replace the radiator on the side of the road. At least with my car, I dont need to jack the car up. It's a few bolts, a few hoses, and it snaps in place.

Yes, the auto shop store will sell or sometimes rent tools. But I'm already unhappy about the fact that I'm wasting my vacation time on this, and their tools will be garbage and overpriced for what they are. Given my car uses primary 8, 10, 12, 14 inside the engine compartment, by having a very streamlined set of sockets and wrenches, I can have a high quality set tailored to my car that can let me replace the radiator with minimal tool-based frustration.

I can also replace a waterpump on the side of the road without much hassle, as long as I have the right tools. The tools the auto parts store sells are not only cheap, but they won't be the specialized ones I need to go straight to the water pump. I might have to take half the car apart to get to it.

So there's a middle ground between "just carry a cell phone and call AAA" and "replacing the transmission on the side of the interstate"

It's very possible I'm in Las Vegas, my car is parked in a strip mall as I go in to eat at a restaurant, I come out and see coolant all over the ground, I walk one block to Autozone and buy a radiator or waterpump, and with my pre-made toolset designed for my car, am able to do the job with minimal hassle.

What did it cost me? I have to spend some money on tools (which I like to do anyway) And keep a small pouch of a few different types of 8, 10, 12, 14 sockets, and a few styles of wrenches, and a ratchet. Takes up very little space, was fun to assemble, and as an insurance policy of having to choose to do my own car repair in a strip mall parking lot, is worthwhile to me.
There's probably a Harbor Freight next to the AutoZone.
 

isb cornbinder

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Nov 3, 2010
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Pacific South West, BC, Canada
I subscribe to this mindset as well. Overmaintained is my MO.

There are some time you just never know wjat is going to happen though and I prefer to be somewhat prepared vs. completely unprepared
You need to watch Eric of You Tube fame, His channel is South Main Auto LLC. It is next to impossible to do a repair without the diagnostic tools and experience. Join the AAA with the tow-in service.
Save your money that you would spend on tools.
 

crane operator

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Jul 1, 2016
Messages
307
Location
sw missouri
I have several of the craftsman 150 piece socket/wrench tool kits, I like the kits that have the wrenches with them. Just a socket set doesn't do much good if you have a bolt and nut.

They don't take up a lot of room, and one of those, and pair of vise grips and a hammer will fix a lot of problems. I bought the "gunmetal chrome" sets that were taiwan production, and have wrenches to 19mm. They aren't snap on, but they are better than a rock and a stick.

The particular set I liked- aren't available anymore, unfortunately.

And I know the set will have extra stuff you may never use, but they have most of what you might need in a pinch.

I think they now sell a similar set under their "overdrive" name.

 

ohhimark

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Oct 20, 2019
Messages
255
Location
detroit
The set in your first post looks fine. I was also going to suggest one of the Overdrive sets linked above. I've tried socket rails in a tool bag and after a little driving they became a tool bag filled with loose sockets. Same for the wrenches. I carry a smaller 3/8 Craftsman socket set, with a few added sockets, and a tool roll with the other stuff. Works good in the junkyard, and isn't too bulky when walking all the way back to the Mopar section.
 

Hakeem

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Jan 22, 2024
Messages
1,255
Location
Chicago
I have heard a few people say to keep an impact in the car to have civil tire changes. I never thought the 4-way tire iron was particularly bad. Is it harder on larger vehicles and trucks? Maybe because I drive a smaller car, the lug nuts dont have as many threads to go on, but maybe on a truck the studs are longer, more threads, more torque, harder to do?
i never understood it either. I’ve changed tires for half a dozen people and the lug nuts always came off with whatever the mfr provided. The biggest struggle is typically getting the wheel free from the hub, but a swift kick (or BFH if you have one) gets them off. This is in Chicago so there’s rust aplenty.

I never saw the appeal of an impact gun as a “just in case” type thing. For one, that’s $200-300 you have ******* in a tool that hopefully never gets used. Secondly, that’s another battery you have to worry about keeping charged. And what if the battery dies or craps out? Do you carry a backup breaker bar just in case? Better safe than sorry I suppose

2’ breaker bar + relevant socket(s) makes the most sense to me.
 

AEAdam

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May 27, 2023
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Location
SE PA
The only scenario that makes sense to me is the one I described, because I prepped for it and it actually happened to me.

You are away from home. For some reason, too far to simply return home. The car isn’t broken down, but inconveniently broken. You have access to parts but don’t want to spend the time or $$$ on service. So it’s a remote DIY job. In the story i told earlier, it was about saving a vacation day. (and not a little money at a British Land Rover dealer). Oh, and no way I’d buy tools at an auto parts store to fix a vehicle remotely. One special tool maybe.

I swapped the starter in my pick up in my kids high school parking lot to save the cost of the tow at least. In that case, I got a ride home and came back with tools. That’s the other scenario. But the starter and my home were in 2 different directions, and I had no quick “roadside tool set” I could grab, I was unpacking tools boxes into cardboard boxes. Had I had a decent set of tools in my truck, I could have saved an hour.

Otherwise, I agree that the question itself is flawed.
1) When you need tools, the set linked in the OP doesn’t include tools the OP would most likely need.

2) When you are broken down repairing a car in austere conditions, you need good tools you can trust. I doubt a “cheap set of sockets” would actually work when the chips are down, you don’t have penetrating oil etc. Then that begs the question, are you driving around with nice tools kicking around in your vehicle?
 

JeepYJ

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Joined
Dec 25, 2015
Messages
9,002
Oh, and no way I’d buy tools at an auto parts store to fix a vehicle remotely.
Why not?
Napa Carlyle tools are typically held in high regard. The other major store chains have some brand name tools and some of the house brand tools often get good reviews on here too.
Hauling around a box of truck tool brands for a JIC emergency with the risk of them being stolen seems like a waste. Put that money aside in a roadside emergency fund.
 
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