Whole house water filter small leak...........................

[Maxcustody]

I have done several searches and looking for some ideas. I did not install this and has worked well for the last 5 years. I change the filter every 6 months. The most recent change I now have a small leak from the fitting on the left threaded into the filter. Now there are several issues, so I am asking for recommendations. Threaded coupling is glued onto PVC and I can't flip the filter to tighten more due to its location so close to the wall. Am I missing some way to tighten this?

Thanks

 

[Jackfre]

That is a nice install. Leaking male adapters are frequently a problem. Teflon and pipe dope generally fix a problem. I would cut the riser on the right and the same off to the left whcih is not shown. Replace the leaking male adapter making sure the female threads of the filter body are clean. Unlikely you will have a thread chaser of the size shown so with care you can run a galv or blk iron ****** into it to clean them up. Once that is done glue it back up. Be careful installing the chase ****** and the new pvc adapter. It is very easy to cross thread in pvc. Face the ****** up to the filter body and run the ****** CCW until you feel the starter thread drop in and then, gingerly make it in.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Even if you were able to flip the filter, the left side will tighten and the right side will loosen

 

[mike93lx]

Even if you were able to flip the filter, the left side will tighten and the right side will loosen

This, without a union, you can't do anything that avoids cutting.

I'd take it apart, add a union and redo the fittings. Tape and dope on the male adapters.

If you redo, make sure you don't end up with a metal fitting screwed into plastic. If you go back with any metal, make sure it's either metal to metal or plastic into metal

 

[chris142]

you need a union or 2

 

[dcg9381]

Yea, there is no great way around this with that install. PEX might solve your problem as fittings can rotate. I pretty much "just" use PEX for things that have to be reliable. You can get 1" at most big box stores.

A less reliable option, but making the filter removable, use a PVC union to the threaded male.

 

[DGersic]

I have done several searches and looking for some ideas. I did not install this and has worked well for the last 5 years. I change the filter every 6 months. The most recent change I now have a small leak from the fitting on the left threaded into the filter. Now there are several issues, so I am asking for recommendations. Threaded coupling is glued onto PVC and I can't flip the filter to tighten more due to its location so close to the wall. Am I missing some way to tighten this?

Thanks

You can’t tighten it. I’d have a close look at that female pipe thread coupling, it may be cracked. I’ve been burned by female threads a couple of times now, so I don’t trust them. I’ve also noticed that Moen changed their shower valves from female threaded to male threaded.

I’m curious about the black thing to the left of the filter. Looks like tape? What’s that hiding?

Looks like you’ll be doing some plumbing. A union about where the black thing is would allow you to replace or tighten the male threaded coupling if that’s the actual source of the leak. If it’s actually the female side, you’ll need two unions and move the whole assembly to the left to make room.

 

[Maxcustody]

I appreciate all the replies, as I thought no easy fix. It is best to replace so I do not have the issue in the future..........

 

[Maxcustody]

You can’t tighten it. I’d have a close look at that female pipe thread coupling, it may be cracked. I’ve been burned by female threads a couple of times now, so I don’t trust them. I’ve also noticed that Moen changed their shower valves from female threaded to male threaded.

I’m curious about the black thing to the left of the filter. Looks like tape? What’s that hiding?

Looks like you’ll be doing some plumbing. A union about where the black thing is would allow you to replace or tighten the male threaded coupling if that’s the actual source of the leak. If it’s actually the female side, you’ll need two unions and move the whole assembly to the left to make room.

Thanks. The black tape covers a wire for the controller mounted to the wall. I also have a UV setup, it may be for that...........

 

[mike93lx]

The electronic "descalers" are snake oil, especially at that scale. I'd take it out while you are doing this work. If you have hard water, a salt softener is the right move

 

[Maxcustody]

The electronic "descalers" are snake oil, especially at that scale. I'd take it out while you are doing this work. If you have hard water, a salt softener is the right move

Thanks. It has been there since when we bought the house.................

 

[mike93lx]

Thanks. It has been there since when we bought the house.................

Sure...

 

[OccupantRJ]

Easy is relative. Installing a union or two is what I would consider an easy fix, and it makes piping easier to take apart later.

 

[DGersic]

Easy is relative. Installing a union or two is what I would consider an easy fix, and it makes piping easier to take apart later.

Sure, easy. Probably only need six trips to Lowe’s and $100 in parts, but then you can return the $50 in parts that you didn’t use.

The first union would be easy, on the left. The second one will require moving or rebuilding that custom 2x4 support bracket. That may be less easy, depending on whether it’ll all fit under the electronics that are wall mounted.

 

[no704]

Figure out a way to close off that section of pipe. Don’t know what valves might exist. Rig up something to pull a vacuum, cardboard, duct tape, etc. hook up a shop vac and pull vacuum. Apply pipe glue and it will be pulled into the leak and set up.
Not ideal, but u asked for easy!

 

[Maxcustody]

I think the best way is to replace it and do it correctly so it does not happen in the future....................

 

[gungatim]

Figure out a way to close off that section of pipe. Don’t know what valves might exist. Rig up something to pull a vacuum, cardboard, duct tape, etc. hook up a shop vac and pull vacuum. Apply pipe glue and it will be pulled into the leak and set up.
Not ideal, but u asked for easy!

There's gotta be a shutoff already, otherwise how would you replace the filter? Should be one on the other side as well, otherwise all the water in the house is going to drain back down when you change the filter as well.

 

[Maxcustody]

There's gotta be a shutoff already, otherwise how would you replace the filter? Should be one on the other side as well, otherwise all the water in the house is going to drain back down when you change the filter as well.

Yes there are shutoffs. I change the filter every 6 months.

 

[gizardlizard]

Don’t use regular pipe dope on the plastic threads. It will attack the plastic and you’ll have leaks. At work, on plastic threads we tape only. On really difficult to seal threaded joints, we tape and paste but use paste that is pvc safe.

 

[Maxcustody]

Thanks

 

[BSWS]

Many have mentioned that you definitely need a union, probably on the left side. As Mike said, if that black tape is a "magic" softener just remove that and throw it away. If it was my filter I would get rid of that housing for 2 reasons. Clear sumps are far more susceptible to cracking, it eventually will. And if the top of that filter turns, it is a half-assed shut off or bypass, also very likely to leak. I learned many decades ago to keep it simple with filter housings. The most trouble-free housing is just a sump and a head, no shut off, no pressure release, no clear housing, and if it's possible to find anymore, American made. Also make sure it's a standard 10" or 20" sump to keep your filter options open.

 

[Maxcustody]

Many have mentioned that you definitely need a union, probably on the left side. As Mike said, if that black tape is a "magic" softener just remove that and throw it away. If it was my filter I would get rid of that housing for 2 reasons. Clear sumps are far more susceptible to cracking, it eventually will. And if the top of that filter turns, it is a half-assed shut off or bypass, also very likely to leak. I learned many decades ago to keep it simple with filter housings. The most trouble-free housing is just a sump and a head, no shut off, no pressure release, no clear housing, and if it's possible to find anymore, American made. Also make sure it's a standard 10" or 20" sump to keep your filter options open.

Thanks and I am going to replace the filter with a new one as well........................

 

[manwithtools]

I'd also urge you to get a filter with a factory supplied L bracket that supports the filter housing. Using the PVC fittings to support the filter is not the best of approaches. Over time that could lead to failed fittings or housing cracks.

 

[Maxcustody]

I'd also urge you to get filter with bracket that supports the filter housing. Using the PVC fittings to support the filter is not the best of approaches. Over time that could lead to failed fittings or housing cracks.

Totally agree I will mount it to the wall, it should be stationary and not move like it does now..............

 

[rlitman]

A few comments I didn't see brought up here.

The filter base's female threads may be metal. Better filter bases have metal female inserts. That is a feature I would look for, and since those sections seem to be pretty thin, if I didn't see a metal insert in there, I'd be VERY afraid of the female side cracking and splitting. Especially when it's over 10 years old. Usually the all-plastic ones are thicker...

The clear filter covers are nice in that you can see what is going on, but they're polycarbonate. Polycarbonate stress cracks! While it is quite impact resistant, the constant water pressure on it will eventually lead to failure. At this age (based on the markings, it is at least 12), I would say replacement is several years past due. If you plan to replace this with a plastic filter body (which is fine in 99% of all cases, and you're not that edge case that needs stainless), I suggest you find one that uses glass filled plastic. Those have an indefinite lifetime (so far as I'm aware). And as stated previously, find one with a wall bracket.

As for fittings, if I were plumbing this in PVC, would glue on a pair of PVC solvent to FEMALE thread connectors, but they would be steel "special reinforced" schedule 80 female connectors like this:

Plus a union (probably also schedule 80), and three schedule 80 PVC threaded *******.

 

[Maxcustody]

Thanks @rlitman