Sheathing Question

[Wiebster]

As I start my new garage build, I thought I had the framing all figured out but I guess not. I’m building 2x6 walls 12’ 1” tall to have at least 12’0” finished. I’m using 5/8” 4x8 osb on the entire shell. Can you tell me if I’m doing this correctly? I’m holding the osb 1/2” up off the concrete, 1/8” spacing between sheets, double top plates, three full rows of sheathing installed staggered four feet, but this only gives me about 3/4” to attach osb to the very top plate. Should I be putting a narrow strip in the middle of the wall or is this enough to nail to. I only have one 16’ section put up so far so if I’m completely off course I can correct. Also on that note. How often should I brace the wall to keep from blowing over. I can’t really tap on into my new concrete except for a few areas. Is there a particular sequence that will make it stronger, like corners first or just build wall by wall. It’s 72’ x 40’. Thanks guys.

 

[nadogail]

Just follow the print.

 

[Wiebster]

If I had that detailed of a print, I wouldn’t have to post this question.

 

[Wiebster]

But while we are on the subject of non-detailed blueprints, would you install blocking 8’ up on the studs. There will be attic trusses with some weight up there. According to IBC 2015 Section 718.2.2 it would seem that it is required on anything greater than 10’ so I assume this applies to me for fire blocking purposes? If it does I might as well put it at 8’ and edge nail my sheathing to it.

 

[loganb]

Are you installing blocking at the horizontal panel seams? Many sheathing mfg call out edge fasteners at 6" on center which means blocking/supporting of edges is required.

 

[Wiebster]

I’m using 5/8” Norboard OSB on 16” stud spacing. It doesn’t require edge fastening. I was thinking more for stiffening the studs for the attic weight and snow loads. Also for fire blocking. I thought if I were to block, I would put the blocking at 8’ up so I could edge fasten two horizontal edges.

 

[mike93lx]

I think that 3/4 overlap on the second top plate is plenty. A lot of sheathing doesn't even get onto it at all.

 

[readhead]

If there is a permit then I would ask the inspector what he expects to see.

 

[hefnerconstructionlc]

I think your plan sounds fine. Use truss loc lag bolts when attaching your trusses and that will go through both plates and tie the roof frame and wall framing assemblies together. You can always ask the build department what they would like. They should be a resource to get those details answered.

 

[cliffcharb]

But while we are on the subject of non-detailed blueprints, would you install blocking 8’ up on the studs. There will be attic trusses with some weight up there. According to IBC 2015 Section 718.2.2 it would seem that it is required on anything greater than 10’ so I assume this applies to me for fire blocking purposes? If it does I might as well put it at 8’ and edge nail my sheathing to it.

I also had limited detail plans. I did the blocking at 8’ for attaching and to be in compliance with the fire blocking rule.

 

[PopcornSutton]

Carry on the way you are. The USB will provide all the stiffening the studs need. If an inspector requires fire blocking, it can always be added.

 

[Wiebster]

I think that 3/4 overlap on the second top plate is plenty. A lot of sheathing doesn't even get onto it at all.

ok, that’s good to know. Thank you

 

[Wiebster]

Carry on the way you are. The USB will provide all the stiffening the studs need. If an inspector requires fire blocking, it can always be added.

That is true, I can call and ask as was mentioned in these comments.

 

[Wiebster]

I think your plan sounds fine. Use truss loc lag bolts when attaching your trusses and that will go through both plates and tie the roof frame and wall framing assemblies together. You can always ask the build department what they would like. They should be a resource to get those details answered.

Ok, thank you. I debated truss screws vs. hurricane ties. I ended up with the ties because it seemed to me one timber loc threads couldn’t possibly compare to the shear strength of ten joist nails, could it? I like the simplicity and speed of the truss lag bolts though. We obviously don’t get hurricanes up here or even that strong of wind. I do have a joist nail gun to speed things up a bit, but not as fast as a single timber loc. I can return the ties easily enough if the truss screw is the preferred method.

 

[Sumboodie]

I add blocking at the bottom or do a double plate. Could then cheat it up 1" and you will be tight at the ceiling. Bottom of wall covered with baseboard of some type or just leave it.

Anything available other than NorBord? That's bottom of the drum stuff. Pretty much all we can get here. Swells like crazy from getting wet. even just a week or two of out in the weather while building.

A good OSB, like from JM Huber doesn't do that.

Could go thinner even vs that NorBord ****.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I would do the blocking like you are doing and support the edge of the sheet.

 

[mike93lx]

Ok, thank you. I debated truss screws vs. hurricane ties. I ended up with the ties because it seemed to me one timber loc threads couldn’t possibly compare to the shear strength of ten joist nails, could it? I like the simplicity and speed of the truss lag bolts though. We obviously don’t get hurricanes up here or even that strong of wind. I do have a joist nail gun to speed things up a bit, but not as fast as a single timber loc. I can return the ties easily enough if the truss screw is the preferred method.

As far as I know, Truss screws are used because they are faster, and as a bonus, don't get in the way of interior finishes..

They are rated for the application, so they are appropriately strong. I'd read the Simpson literature and make sure there isn't any issues with the specific use case, then go that way

 

[hefnerconstructionlc]

Ok, thank you. I debated truss screws vs. hurricane ties. I ended up with the ties because it seemed to me one timber loc threads couldn’t possibly compare to the shear strength of ten joist nails, could it? I like the simplicity and speed of the truss lag bolts though. We obviously don’t get hurricanes up here or even that strong of wind. I do have a joist nail gun to speed things up a bit, but not as fast as a single timber loc. I can return the ties easily enough if the truss screw is the preferred method.

They both serve the same purpose either is fine. I use both. Sometimes the screws are just quicker. But if you use the hurricane ties those are also good. It will tie all three pieces together. No need to overthink it.

 

[Bill T]

Don't know if a permit/inspection is required on your build, but, my inspector required that either he had the opporrtunity to inspect the sheathing before the siding was installed or, all grade stamps for the wall and ceiling sheathing must be visible. If your building is a little shakey at this stage, install your corner sheathing first to help prevent "racking".

 

[Skiff Builder]

As I start my new garage build, I thought I had the framing all figured out but I guess not. I’m building 2x6 walls 12’ 1” tall to have at least 12’0” finished. I’m using 5/8” 4x8 osb on the entire shell. Can you tell me if I’m doing this correctly? I’m holding the osb 1/2” up off the concrete, 1/8” spacing between sheets, double top plates, three full rows of sheathing installed staggered four feet, but this only gives me about 3/4” to attach osb to the very top plate. Should I be putting a narrow strip in the middle of the wall or is this enough to nail to. I only have one 16’ section put up so far so if I’m completely off course I can correct. Also on that note. How often should I brace the wall to keep from blowing over. I can’t really tap on into my new concrete except for a few areas. Is there a particular sequence that will make it stronger, like corners first or just build wall by wall. It’s 72’ x 40’. Thanks guys.

I would brace the mid sections of walls from the outside in your case. 16' 2 by ,one end staked to ground, other end to top plate, maybe every 12' or so. We used to toenail 2 16 or 20d nails through top end of brace so that they pointed up. You could than put brace against wall, grab brace in the middle and pull down with your body weight to move and temp hold the wall as needed to get a nice straight top plate and plumb wall.

Nice size bldg there ,enjoy.

 

[Wiebster]

I would brace the mid sections of walls from the outside in your case. 16' 2 by ,one end staked to ground, other end to top plate, maybe every 12' or so. We used to toenail 2 16 or 20d nails through top end of brace so that they pointed up. You could than put brace against wall, grab brace in the middle and pull down with your body weight to move and temp hold the wall as needed to get a nice straight top plate and plumb wall.

Nice size bldg there ,enjoy.

Thank you for this info. I couldn’t find a lot of info on how often to brace. I did buy a bunch of 16’ 2x4s and concrete form straighteners to attach to the top to fine tune the straightening process. I was unsure how often to brace though. I also decided to build my corners first, 16’ each direction. Really stiffened up the framing. Hopefully this doesn’t cause any unforeseen troubles raising walls in between the corners. Thank you for your input!

 

[Wiebster]

As far as I know, Truss screws are used because they are faster, and as a bonus, don't get in the way of interior finishes..

They are rated for the application, so they are appropriately strong. I'd read the Simpson literature and make sure there isn't any issues with the specific use case, then go that way

I’m going to look into these further. Thank you!

Don't know if a permit/inspection is required on your build, but, my inspector required that either he had the opporrtunity to inspect the sheathing before the siding was installed or, all grade stamps for the wall and ceiling sheathing must be visible. If your building is a little shakey at this stage, install your corner sheathing first to help prevent "racking".

Don't know if a permit/inspection is required on your build, but, my inspector required that either he had the opporrtunity to inspect the sheathing before the siding was installed or, all grade stamps for the wall and ceiling sheathing must be visible. If your building is a little shakey at this stage, install your corner sheathing first to help prevent "racking".

I did get a permit but when he came out to confirm my setbacks he just said let us know when it’s done. So I think since it’s detached, they aren’t very particular about details. Hopefully I’m not mistaken, but no matter, I want it built right. I have decided to build the corners first, 16’ each direction and it really stiffens up the framing. Any unknown problems doing it this way? As much building as I have done in my life, I’m a little surprised by how little I really do know on building a large shop by myself, lol.

 

[Wiebster]

I would do the blocking like you are doing and support the edge of the sheet.

Ok, I will.

 

[Wiebster]

I add blocking at the bottom or do a double plate. Could then cheat it up 1" and you will be tight at the ceiling. Bottom of wall covered with baseboard of some type or just leave it.

Anything available other than NorBord? That's bottom of the drum stuff. Pretty much all we can get here. Swells like crazy from getting wet. even just a week or two of out in the weather while building.

A good OSB, like from JM Huber doesn't do that.

Could go thinner even vs that NorBord ****.

I didn’t realize that was junky stuff. It’s a little too late because I have over 300 sheets on site. I’ll do my best to get it house wrapped asap. Glad I went with thicker stuff. I didn’t know there were different grades or standards in osb. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[Wiebster]

I didn’t realize that was junky stuff. It’s a little too late because I have over 300 sheets on site. I’ll do my best to get it house wrapped asap. Glad I went with thicker stuff. I didn’t know there were different grades or standards in osb. Thanks for the heads up.

My Simpson concrete bolts are already a tad short 8” supposed to be in the concrete 7” so I really can’t do a double plate.

 

[Wiebster]

I add blocking at the bottom or do a double plate. Could then cheat it up 1" and you will be tight at the ceiling. Bottom of wall covered with baseboard of some type or just leave it.

Anything available other than NorBord? That's bottom of the drum stuff. Pretty much all we can get here. Swells like crazy from getting wet. even just a week or two of out in the weather while building.

A good OSB, like from JM Huber doesn't do that.

Could go thinner even vs that NorBord ****.

Actually I was mistaken. It’s made by West Fraser. Hopefully that’s not even worse material.

 

[Sumboodie]

Actually I was mistaken. It’s made by West Fraser. Hopefully that’s not even worse material.

West Fraser makes NorBoard.

I guess I was confused, was thinking the OSB was going for the interior, like my place.

I have sheetmetal on the outside. 2x6 studs and 2x4 girts for the sheetmetal.
So it's OSB, r21 insulation, tyvek, tin.