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Looking for fence suggestions

rhastings80

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Joined
Apr 1, 2009
Messages
636
Hi,

I live in a house with my wife and dog and our back yard is totally fenced in except for a space between the garage and the house. The problem is the dog ran away the other night and we did find him but now the wife thinks we need to totally fence in the back yard, I guess I agree with her. There is only one exit from the house in the back and she wants to be able to let him out the back door of the house and have him be in the fenced area. The only way to do that would be to install a fence between the garage and the house.

Does anybody have any good solutions for this? Is the best way to just cut up the concrete and put in a chain link fence or is there a better option for something more attractive. I would also probably want a wide gate so we can get stuff in the back yard as on the side lot lines there isn't any space to get stuff in the back.

Thanks

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Torque1st

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Sep 14, 2008
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KC Metro, Kansas
A section of chain link fence or privacy fence would do the trick. You can use steel posts for either type of fence. A plate on the end of a pipe could be bolted down to the concrete. Then a standard chain link fence post could be slipped over it. You can buy steel post to wood fence adapters from the Home Box stores in the SIMPSON STRONG-TIE product section.

BTW- Good pictures! :thumbup:
 

ddawg16

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Jul 11, 2008
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Location
S. California
Ditto on what Torque said....saves you having to dig up concrete...

The other option would be an electronic collar/fence.....you set up a wire so that if he gets near it he gets shocked....it trains him to stay in the yard.
 

hyisbm

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Joined
Jun 1, 2009
Messages
119
Hey, I have practically the exact same setup LOL. Down to the tree (which we took out the first year we moved in). We used to have a 4 foot wooden fence that was falling apart then when we put a privacy fence in the back of the yard we also redid the gate with six-foot privacy fencing. The girlfriend wanted it since we sometimes do fire pits and grilling. Am I correct that the window of your neighbors house is their bedroom? So, if you would like privacy when you're back there you might want to go that route.
 

e-tek

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Dec 19, 2007
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10,690
Location
Saskatoon, SK
Oh - now you two are working together!!!


I'd drill holes in the cement to accept the posts. Then they'd be more sturdy - especially if you where going to attach two swinging gates - a small walk-through and a larger one to get larger things into the back yard as you said.
 

woodbutch

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Jan 29, 2009
Messages
25
You gotta ask yourself,how much do you really like that dam dog,eatting an crapping an peeing... Sorry I was just thinking out loud.Just spent the last two weekends fixing the fence to keep the mut in and I realized he had not run off the whole time the fence was down.Getting too old to run I guess.
You can cut the concrete with your skill sawand a diamond blade(HD-25 bucks) and set posts in quickcrete or I have drilled whole for pipe posts and hammered them in.
 

larry_g

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Apr 28, 2007
Messages
16,887
Location
oregon
First thought I had was to have a rolling gate that would roll back along side the garage or roll out to meet a corner post that is straight out from the house. However I think that dawg has the better idea, a training collar.

lg
no neat sig line
 

DIC

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Aug 2, 2009
Messages
698
If you can weld you could build an ornamental type fence out of 3/4 square tubing .........
 

Keith_MN

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Dec 13, 2009
Messages
137
Location
Minneapolis Metro
I agree with Torque. I would leave the concrete.

Just find a fence with flanges on the bottom of the post to bolt it down. Check out the railings at the local home improvement store. Many front step or deck railings are made to bolt down and could work in this case. You may be limited to 42" high though for most styles.
 

2chipped

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Aug 14, 2009
Messages
641
Location
Jesup Ga USA
As a fence installer i have several questions. The area looks to be aprox 10ft across ,thats perfect:) Now ,do you need access to the backyard? Please say yes :thumbup:if the opening is 10 ft home dumpo has a 4ft tallx10 ft long gate for $95 latch kit is 15$ 2 #2 3/8 posts are 18$ a piece you can rent a core drill for 30$ a half day you would need to verify nothing is under the concrete before drilling with a min of 4 in core drill on each end . Use anchoring concrete 10$ around each post and your done. I highly recommend a big gate if you EVER move anything through that area. Tip on the anchoring concrete ,drive the post into the dirt below plumb post and mix concrete with a drill and hurry you have 2 to 5 min before the concrete is completely hard.:beer:
 
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jhelrey

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Sep 15, 2010
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MN
Also as a professional fence installer, I would buy the posts with the plate welded on the bottom. Just drill, anchor, tighten, stretch fabric, and your fence is done.
 

ket-tek

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Jan 28, 2009
Messages
1,289
Surprised no one has mentioned to simply build an addition onto the garage to eliminate the gap all together. The would really be the GJ way..

If it were mine I would be looking at either a rolling gate that tucks behind the garage, or if setting posts I would want to bolt them down to make it easily reversible and not have big holes in the drive.
 

rickycobra

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Sep 9, 2010
Messages
292
Rolling gate down the side of the garage.

Ditto. This would allow for as wide of an opening you have now to move stuff through and you can keep you dog safe and sound. Please don't do that electric fence for your dog.
 

srmofo

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Oct 15, 2009
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SW ohio
Just say no to electric collars. There's better ways to train dogs. If I can train my 2 year old boxer to not run off, then any dog can learn. However I fully understand the need for a fence, just for peace of mind.

I would anchor it to the concrete
 

drmoonshine

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Aug 17, 2010
Messages
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Location
Oxnard, California
I would run a fence from the far side of you garage down to even with the front of your house then across your driveway to your house. That way your dog can be near you while you working if he pleases.
 

2chipped

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Messages
641
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Jesup Ga USA
Also as a professional fence installer, I would buy the posts with the plate welded on the bottom. Just drill, anchor, tighten, stretch fabric, and your fence is done.
So another fence man,cool:) What kind of fence do you specialise in the great cold north? Here on the Ga coast we install vinyl and alumninum and sometimes wood and chainlink:mad::mad: (sawdust and barb i hate).
 

Andy4639

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Joined
Sep 17, 2009
Messages
128
I think the roller gate is a good idea but it want work unless you have something extending off the house. Looks like about 4' differance between the two structures.
IMG_7521.jpg


Maybe a double swing gate. One post on each structure and they come together in the center of the opening. This would give you the whole opening when opened.:thumbup:
 
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rhastings80

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Apr 1, 2009
Messages
636
Thanks everyone for your help.

I liked the idea of the sliding gate but on the other side of the garage there is a walk through door to get in the garage so that wouldn't work.

I also decided against two 5 foot gates as in the winter its hard to get the rod into the ground.

I looked at Home Depot and Lowes and was disappointed in the quality of the chin link fencing so I went to a local fence place that sells to the public and bought all of the parts. I had them weld on 1/4 thick plates and then used a hammer drill and 3/8 wej-it concrete anchors. I hope it holds. It seems pretty solid. The fence parts and fasteners add up fast in cost. I think the whole project including a 7 foot section on the other side of the house was about $400.00. If I need to get something bigger then 4 feet in the back yard I can temporally disconnect the fabric and then I have an 8 foot opening.

I'm done but may consider caulking under the plates fastened to the concrete to try and keep out water and snow as I had to use washers in some places to level the plates.

Thought I would follow up with some pictures for you guys. The wife seems happy now too so that's a plus.

Pete, the black lab doesn't like the new fence though...

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Torque1st

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It looks real good! Keep those base plates painted with zinc rich paint. The caulking is a good idea but you way want to leave a small gap for a drain on the low side. The little parts add up quick on projects. I try to estimate everything and then add 10-25% depending on the project. If I don't do a detailed estimate I often just double the $ and time.
 
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