Nice find! Not at all a common item. I know @3baygarage has a red one with an unusual marking. I've seen the gray ones with the Helm logo. And I found a Blue-Point version a few years ago, prompting a deep research dive. Tony Helm was a very interesting, entrepreneurial man, an African-American, blue-collar mechanic, and inventor! If you're interested in reading more, link here....Helm Tools Power Flex Drive 1/2"







Nice looking card catalog. A good start for organizing a tool library.I bought this Art Metal 12-drawer steel cabinet (52x28.5x13) an ES Friday for $100.
Part of the deal was that they would empty the drawers and keep the 200 pounds of rusty bolts, used screws, bent nails and miscellaneous (often unidentifiable) **** while I went to borrow a pickup truck from my neighbor. When we returned, we muscled it out of its glove-like position in the workshop and dolly-ed it to the carport. Twisting it off the dolly is when I noticed that a minor dent, low on one side, was just enough to allow the bottom two drawers to slide out without using the thumb releases.
As the drawers slid out, it was hard to miss the fact they were still chock-full of rusty bolts, used screws, bent nails and miscellaneous unidentifiable ****. In response to my question about the aforementioned agreement that they empty the drawers, I was told they close at 3 pm and it was about to rain. This took me slightly aback because I had been gone for over three hours, it was only 2:45 pm and we were still under a carport. Sensing the futility of commenting on these facts, I simply transferred the material into a nearby box, finished loading the cabinet and departed.
I should have checked the remaining drawers...
That empty space on the right was where the rake remnants were lovingly socked away.
Since I had it, I sorted through it and came up with the minor finds below and 35 pounds (yes, I weighed it) of recyclables.
The Hex drive lug has Made in USA buy not by whom.
The little Kabar looks like all the blades have been sharpened with a 60 grit grinding wheel...
P-38 Lightning tie tack; Williams 624 Check-Nut Wrench (1914-24); PLVMB 3018 has the Made in USA design, but no date code so '43-'45
The red screwdriver is advertising Oxford Chemicals, Atlanta, GA, "A Consolidated Foods Company", while the amber driver says only WARRANTED 19¢, but not who would warrant it.
The cabinet itself is in pretty nice shape. I'm not sure, but I think most of the exterior is original brown paint, even though the interior is a less-green-more-brown shade of olive drab. The drawers run out all the way on heavy ball bearing rollers.
Trying to straighten out the slight bend near the bottom is proving difficult. I whaled on it pretty hard but that steel is stubborn. Next I will try laying it down and applying gravity assisted downward pressure on the high spot. If that doesn't work, I'll live with the fact the two bottom drawers don't latch.










Love how deep the drawers are.Art Metal 12-drawer steel cabinet (52x28.5x13)
Indestro. Nice find.Unknown breaker bar with socket end - # 3221

I learned to buy consumables at estate and garage sales from my dad. Sandpaper, zip ties, fluids, etc. Can't beat the price you get on that stuff. I just was at a contractors estate sale, had the paint I used for my garden tractor for $1 a can. Currently its $11 a can at the store.And finally a full ATF and 3/4 penetrol of course because I just bought some last week for $16 !!
Nice find! Does the tag say … ?I bought this Art Metal 12-drawer steel cabinet (52x28.5x13) an ES Friday for $100.
Part of the deal was that they would empty the drawers and keep the 200 pounds of rusty bolts, used screws, bent nails and miscellaneous (often unidentifiable) **** while I went to borrow a pickup truck from my neighbor. When we returned, we muscled it out of its glove-like position in the workshop and dolly-ed it to the carport. Twisting it off the dolly is when I noticed that a minor dent, low on one side, was just enough to allow the bottom two drawers to slide out without using the thumb releases.
As the drawers slid out, it was hard to miss the fact they were still chock-full of rusty bolts, used screws, bent nails and miscellaneous unidentifiable ****. In response to my question about the aforementioned agreement that they empty the drawers, I was told they close at 3 pm and it was about to rain. This took me slightly aback because I had been gone for over three hours, it was only 2:45 pm and we were still under a carport. Sensing the futility of commenting on these facts, I simply transferred the material into a nearby box, finished loading the cabinet and departed.
I should have checked the remaining drawers...
That empty space on the right was where the rake remnants were lovingly socked away.
Since I had it, I sorted through it and came up with the minor finds below and 35 pounds (yes, I weighed it) of recyclables.
The Hex drive lug has Made in USA buy not by whom.
The little Kabar looks like all the blades have been sharpened with a 60 grit grinding wheel...
P-38 Lightning tie tack; Williams 624 Check-Nut Wrench (1914-24); PLVMB 3018 has the Made in USA design, but no date code so '43-'45
The red screwdriver is advertising Oxford Chemicals, Atlanta, GA, "A Consolidated Foods Company", while the amber driver says only WARRANTED 19¢, but not who would warrant it.
The cabinet itself is in pretty nice shape. I'm not sure, but I think most of the exterior is original brown paint, even though the interior is a less-green-more-brown shade of olive drab. The drawers run out all the way on heavy ball bearing rollers.
Trying to straighten out the slight bend near the bottom is proving difficult. I whaled on it pretty hard but that steel is stubborn. Next I will try laying it down and applying gravity assisted downward pressure on the high spot. If that doesn't work, I'll live with the fact the two bottom drawers don't latch.
Trying to straighten out the slight bend near the bottom is proving difficult. I whaled on it pretty hard but that steel is stubborn. Next I will try laying it down and applying gravity assisted downward pressure on the high spot.
To straighten the lower edge:
The idea is to apply pressure opposite the force that bent the structure. In this case, that force was from the box being set down on something that was higher in the center than the edges.
Set the box on a sturdy bench or wood that you can get a big C-clamp under. Block the ends of the box up with wood or metal at least 1/4" thick. With the drawers removed, fill in the C-channel of the bottom edge with wood and/or metal strips that will fill in the open gap of the C-channel. The strips should be flexible enough to follow the curve, but transfer any pressure on the top edge so it isn't deformed when applying pressure. Use a wood block on top of the C-channel that is strong enough to spread out the pressure on the top surface and use a big C-clamp to pull the bottom down. You will have to take it a little below straight to allow for spring-back, so proceed slowly. Do not apply pressure in a small area. Spread it out.
an old Marriam’s Segar cutter with “Patent Pending 1902”



Get that old girl fixed! https://www.ebay.com/itm/1732247222...1MOzHjsrJRnb4ummaaVms9SQ==|tkp:Bk9SR6TWociWZASweet!
I have its big brother, the HW 77--with broken mainspring.
That looks like a Cole vise https://archive.org/details/ColeToolMfgCo/mode/2up
This type of sharpener is my Go-to anymore. a lot easier to get the edges done proper and a lot less likely to slip and scratch the blade. Can I do it free hand? yes, but it's a lot more work. I'm mounting the holder in a vise these days as well. other brands (Smith and others) are better setup for thatLansky sharpener set unused in the box
agreeAcross the front is what I assume is a muffler pipe cutting tool
This is where your Porto Power comes into play, or maybe a bottle or scissors jack.
But here he's working on a file cabinet, so getting the C clamp inside might be a bear, with a potentially closed, bottom, and needing to reach up a bit to get to the damaged area.
That's the original tool box problem, this is the second one, where the bend peak is about 3-1/2 drawers up from the bottom, and quite deep into the body of the box. He says near the bottom, but you can see it in the right sideAs I understand it the bend is on the bottom rail? an bent up? lay it on its back and make a "truss" with a gap across the bottom, and clamp. away with the clamp outside for the most part.
I bought this Art Metal 12-drawer steel cabinet (52x28.5x13) an ES Friday for $100.
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I don't have anything I can use for a spring compressor. Preload on that mainspring isn't something I want to mess with with improvised tools.
That was the first path I went down. It is similar, but I don’t believe it is actually a Cole vise. There are a lot of differences.That looks like a Cole vise https://archive.org/details/ColeToolMfgCo/mode/2up
They were sold by traveling salesman to farmers. I have used one as my welding vise for a few years.
Prov just posted the fix for this in another thread:
This is where your Porto Power comes into play, or maybe a bottle or scissors jack.
But here he's working on a file cabinet, so getting the C clamp inside might be a bear, with a potentially closed, bottom, and needing to reach up a bit to get to the damaged area.
Here's the update on the card cabinet:That's the original tool box problem, this is the second one, where the bend peak is about 3-1/2 drawers up from the bottom, and quite deep into the body of the box. He says near the bottom, but you can see it in the right side

$10 at the habitat
bottle openerWhat is the ratchet shaped object on the right?


I use a sash clamp, one of the old ones that use a bar. Works great.I don't have anything I can use for a spring compressor. Preload on that mainspring isn't something I want to mess with with improvised tools.
Ollie Damon's in Portland, OR, used to be my go-to for serious springer airgun repair, but they no longer do it.
The paper tag is an added bonus to an already great find! I agree that 5-41 is the likely manufacture date and I suspect this was part of a military contract. The overwhelming majority of the general office furniture I see has their standard gray color. To this day if you walk through any industrial operation in Jamestown you’ll undoubtedly find Art Metal desks on the shop floor and in the foreman’s office. They simply last forever.Here's the update on the card cabinet:
RTM has the right of it--the bend is on the right side just north of the lowest cross brace and may have been made by a car or forklift impact. Lacking a Porto Power or a hoist to lift it off the cement, I laid it down on its right side with two 1/4" rods under it, spaced about 30" apart, centered on the bend. Let me say here--that SOB is Heavy--I got it horizontal by myself with only a very minor pinch on one finger, but my neighbor had to help me stand it back up.
I took the drawers out in the affected area and then began to beat both the upper and lower (with the drawers gone) front reinforced edges with my rubber mallet--wishing all the while for a large press!
I measured my progress with a straight edge and when I had decreased the bend by about 50% I called it a draw.
Once we got the cabinet upright, the latches were starting to catch and I completed the repair by slightly bending the release hooks on the doors to be more in line with the metal tabs they are meant to engage.
Satisfactory repair--and no collateral damage done.
I also discovered the Art Metal paper tag glued to the inside behind one of the upper slides. It reads:
Style No.
76B46
Under that, a small Art Metal logo like on the face of the cabinet.
"All office appliances
should be cleaned and
lubricated occasionally.
Two or three lines of text are blocked by the stationary part of the slide but end in:
should be lubricated with thin oil."
Manufacturer
ART METAL
CONSTRUCTION COMPANY
JAMESTOWN, N.Y
The tag has a possible form number and ends in what I am calling the manufacture date:
656-50M-5-41
I'm also backpedaling on thinking the brown exterior is original. Everything else is the OD shade below, so why would the exterior be different?
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Only Duro/Indestro made the breaker with the male square drive end. Some were labeled Chrome X Quality and some Chromium Vanadium but I think the number on yours is an Indestro number.Swap meet 20.00 total
Blue point s-714 punch
P&c 92 chisel
Willaims h9601
Sk 88226 4091440906
Proto 3772 3035 <<>> 1212-e 5277
Bonney 1116
Unknown breaker bar with socket end - # 3221
Mac sp10a
Craftsman 44472 v tappet orange stubby #2
6 inch Ridgid pipe wrench
Mustang 5/8 3/8 3/8 sockets
Snap on 3/8 socket
Brown tool m0210
Lisle 12400 67900 brand new
And a 5 dollar box of socket sand wrenchs I need to go thru will list shortly
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