PVC Projector Box for Part Time Outdoor use

[Greatwhitewing]

Have a covered but otherwise open deck in New England area with a good quality Epson projector and a screen. Want to build a PVC enclosure to house the projector for a few months a year to provide second level rain/condensation protection and a level of security while allowing projection and removal for inclimate weather months. Enclosure to remain in place all year.
I have 1x10 PVC boards (3/4 x 9.5 actual) and PVC bead board material panels around 1/2" thick with enough 3/4" for top, bottom and rear panels and use the bead board for side panels to match deck design (nice PCV/Composite deck). Not sure yet what to use for removable front panel to allow projection and cooling air flow but probably have a gasket and over center tension latches.

Projector dims are about 13.5" deep plus rear connectors X 16" wide (plus fan air) X 6" high min (probably more like 8-9") to allow cable storage. Probably get a right angle HDMI connector to minimize enclosure depth

Currently mounting projector directly to an adjustable tilting bracket I would use to mount the enclosure.

My primary question is about joint detail and what adhesive to use. I will need edge joining also since my 3/4" boards are not wide enough. I have used PL-300 in the past but it's quite messy.

Thanks in advance for your learned advice

 

[PugetDude]

Clear PVC Plumbing adhesive.
Solvent based
Worked perfectly on some PVC crown molding I did a few years ago. Used alcohol to clean the joints. (Didn't want purple primer on the white PVC- they may make a clear primer, I just used what I had)
Make sure you dry fit everything and work quickly- the bond is almost instantaneous.

 

[Greatwhitewing]

Clear PVC Plumbing adhesive.
Solvent based
Worked perfectly on some PVC crown molding I did a few years ago. Used alcohol to clean the joints. (Didn't want purple primer on the white PVC- they may make a clear primer, I just used what I had)
Make sure you dry fit everything and work quickly- the bond is almost instantaneous.

Sounds like fixturing is more important than brad/pin nailing for sure using a slower "wood glue". I take it you used that technique for edge bonding the crown?

 

[PugetDude]

Sounds like fixturing is more important than brad/pin nailing for sure using a slower "wood glue". I take it you used that technique for edge bonding the crown?

No fixturing, just sparingly applied the adhesive with the dauber in the can, positioned the parts quickly and held them in place while the solvent flashed off- probably 30 seconds and they were permanently bonded.

I don't know of any "wood glue" that will stick to plastic. (or liquid nails, etc. for that matter..)

if you want to up the excitement level, get a tube of 3M 5200... I still have some on the soles my 12-year old work boots from an old deck project, it absolutely sticks like death and will not wear off. I was overlaying Trex on a concrete porch over pressure treated wood sleepers screwed to the concrete with Tapcons. 5200 was the only adhesive I found that that would stick to the green pressure treated lumber and the Trex. I did cut a shallow dovetail with a router bit across the Trex where it crossed the sleepers for the 5200 to key into. It hasn't moved in 12 years, has been exposed 24/7 in the soggy wet PNW weather.

If you do decide to pin/brad nail the parts together while whatever adhesive you decide to use dries, I would recommend stainless fasteners. Not a big price difference on a small job like this. Good luck with your project.