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9/64 steel dowel or pin

milkovich

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Akron Ohio
Hi gang, does anyone have a source for 9/64 steel pins/dowels? I've been making them on my junky old lathe but I'm needing them enoug that I'd like to buy a batch. I bought some off ebay but they were 3.5mm and not actually 9/64. I'm primarily running into them restoring old millers falls and stanley wood working tools. I looked on mcMaster but i'm not sure what I'm looking at for a straight dowel pin. I could use drill rod, but I'm afraid it'll be too brittle for what I'm doing.
 
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Packard V8

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FWIW, I've successfully used both drill shanks and drill rod.

For example, I repaired the drive pin of a Bosch Panther reciprocation saw with a short length of drill shank. If it stands up to a recip power tool, how likely is a hand tool to overstress it?

jack vines
 

RTM

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. I'm primarily running into them restoring old millers falls and stanley wood working tools.
Watcha replacing them on? Coping saw rotation pins? Drill rod should be OK. Similarly to pin a wooden handle on to a metal tool

Other stuff, no idea. Most stuff doesn't seem to be under huge stress in a hand tool.

I am using tension roll pins on hacksaw ends, and hate it, so hoping you have better ideas.
 
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milkovich

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Akron Ohio
Watcha replacing them on? Coping saw rotation pins? Drill rod should be OK. Similarly to pin a wooden handle on to a metal tool

Other stuff, no idea. Most stuff doesn't seem to be under huge stress in a hand tool.

I am using tension roll pins on hacksaw ends, and hate it, so hoping you have better ideas.
The pinion gear on a no. 12 hand drill is held on by a 9/64 pin and you have quite a mechanical advantage on the low gear, if you want to do the bearings on one, you'll have to press the old pin out (if it's not sheared already). The wooden handle on a stanley 45 combination plane is also held on by 2 9/64 pins. In that case, it'd be nice if there was a little give as the casting probably won't move much without cracking although it's probably a "malleable iron" as opposed to the bench planes which crack if you look at them wrong.

I didn't realize the drill rod wasn't hardened, I'll give that a shot.
 
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RTM

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The pinion gear on a no. 12 hand drill is held on by a 9/64 pin and you have quite a mechanical advantage on the low gear, if you want to do the bearings on one, you'll have to press the old pin out (if it's not sheared already).
These may work, search eBay for this title, app giving me **** when I try to share the link. It's a 10 pack, tapered ends too.

Alloy Steel Dowel Pins 9/64

 

crguy

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The pinion gear on a no. 12 hand drill is held on by a 9/64 pin and you have quite a mechanical advantage on the low gear, if you want to do the bearings on one, you'll have to press the old pin out (if it's not sheared already). The wooden handle on a stanley 45 combination plane is also held on by 2 9/64 pins. In that case, it'd be nice if there was a little give as the casting probably won't move much without cracking although it's probably a "malleable iron" as opposed to the bench planes which crack if you look at them wrong.

I didn't realize the drill rod wasn't hardened, I'll give that a shot.
That 45 casting is hard and brittle. The handle pins should slip thru the casting freely, not be pressed in.
 
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larry_g

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oregon
I wandered the internet looking for you and found gage pins for $3-5 each. Might be an option if size matters.

lg
no neat sig line
 
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milkovich

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Oct 15, 2007
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Akron Ohio
These may work, search eBay for this title, app giving me **** when I try to share the link. It's a 10 pack, tapered ends too.

Alloy Steel Dowel Pins 9/64

Those are the ones I bought, 3.5mm... they're too loose for a press fit.
 
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milkovich

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That 45 casting is hard and brittle. The handle pins should slip thru the casting freely, not be pressed in.
I've taken a few apart, they were all held in pretty securely. In cases where the tote is wasted and you get the original pin out, it it did have a stiff interference fit. With as many spare 45 parts as I have laying around, a main body isn't worth as much as the rosewood, but it'd still be nice not to crack one.
 

Provincial

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Maybe use the 3.5MM pin and Loctite it into the metal. Use a grade that will fill the gap, but not be too strong. Even the "permanent" grade can be weakened for removal by heating, without damaging the metal.
 

crguy

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Maybe use the 3.5MM pin and Loctite it into the metal. Use a grade that will fill the gap, but not be too strong. Even the "permanent" grade can be weakened for removal by heating, without damaging the metal.
You couldn't do that on a Stanley 45.
 
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