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What did you do "IN" your garage today?

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DGersic

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 12, 2017
Messages
6,372
Location
DeKalb, IL
@DGersic, once you get it dialed in, you'll be infected with the dovetail disease. I caught it a few years ago and made some drawers for the shop. The dovetail joints make for a really sturdy drawer.

One of the reasons I bought the jig. I need three drawers for the entry hall cabinets. But I have plans for more later.

The other reason was a 15% on any one item coupon that HF dropped on Friday for the weekend.

After poking around at it some more today between doctor appointments, I think I’ve got it set up right. No time to make cuts with it today, though. Tomorrow I’ll see if I have it dialed in.
 

Jgaz

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2016
Messages
1,705
Location
AZ
Started figuring out how to set up,and use my new dovetail jig.

IMG_5519.jpeg

First cut, needs work.

IMG_5520.jpeg

Secomd cut is better, but the alignment is still off.

IMG_5521.jpeg
Once you have the router(s) set up to cut a good joint do you plan to dedicate that router full time to the dovetail jig?
A buddy of mine has one like @Bob Heine showed. Over a few years he aired a couple good ol’ used, porter cable 1001, single speed routers and leaves them dialed in.
 

DGersic

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 12, 2017
Messages
6,372
Location
DeKalb, IL
Once you have the router(s) set up to cut a good joint do you plan to dedicate that router full time to the dovetail jig?
A buddy of mine has one like @Bob Heine showed. Over a few years he aired a couple good ol’ used, porter cable 1001, single speed routers and leaves them dialed in.

Probably not. Router setup was easy enough. Add template follower to the baseplate. Set router bit depth.

Getting the jig dialed in is more complicated and fussy.
 

Mike65

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Joined
Mar 7, 2007
Messages
3,106
Location
Horse Pasture, Va.
Yesterday I spent an hour working on the Mustang, marked the spark plug wires & removed the ones on the r/s ones & the dist cap, removed the r/s header pipe to gain easier access to the starter. After I cut the grass I pulled the mower into the garage/shop & put it up on the auto ramps so I can clean the rider deck of the wet grass.
 

larry4406

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 27, 2006
Messages
19,562
Location
Northern Virginia
Made a crucible lifter. Prepped the pediment mold for casting.
IMG_20240806_203050.jpgIMG_20240806_203159.jpg
Things didn't go as well as I'd hoped, but better than they could have.
Kay - what are you casting and what is the media (aluminum, brass, ...)? What is your furnace setup?

Didn't know you were into casting as well. Probably easier to just have a short list of things you don't do!
 

Wrench97

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Joined
Jun 23, 2018
Messages
12,154
Location
Southeastern Pa
Sorry Hobie, I missed your post. Tone ring?

CP-10723-6 from AutoZone
As others have mentioned, online will probably be a ton cheaper. You just have to make sure it specifically says no return line.


By the way, I got it running, not sure yet if the cold start issue is fixed, but at least the no start issue is fixed.

As Wrench suggested, I went ahead warranteed another spider injector, and while I had the intake off, it was easy to get to the distributor cap, so I warranteed the cam position sensor too.

We’ll see if it starts without issue in the morning, but at least it runs.

Thanks everyone for the help, if I still had all my hair I’d have been pulling it out this week.lol I can change a spider injector with my eyes closed now.
I just wanted to make sure it's is the newer style replacement with 6 injectors down at the end of the lines and the older single puck injector with 6 nozzles.
 

Old Man Roger

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Joined
Apr 6, 2017
Messages
17,808
Location
Palm Coast Florida
Changed out a defective blower motor resistor on the Expedition again. This was an Autozone part that I put in last week that decided to fail on high speed only. Ordered a new OEM part online and it was delivered last night. So I got out there early this morning before the heat cranked up and swapped it out. Seems to be working fine now, but I ordered a new connector pigtail also to be sure. That should be here later this week.

20240806_094509.jpg

Today was also mow day after being out of town for a few days, so I grabbed the mower key and mowed front and back, then edged with the string trimmer. After that I was able to get a little more done on the parts for the rebuilt Mustang engine. I had ordered a new thermostat housing, so I bead blasted it and installed it on the intake manifold along with the vacuum tree, temperature sensor and heater hose fitting. Minor issue with the thermostat housing gasket that came with the new housing, but I had a new Felpro gasket that fit correctly.

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Also welded up a saw cut in the throttle cable bracket. I had cut it with a hacksaw to bend it for a better fit with a different intake, but apparently never welded the cut. I found it after bead blasting it and got a quick bead on it before we had to go to the market today. I'll clean it up tomorrow and paint it.

20240806_185028.jpg
Jeezuz, we might need a thread on how many times auto parts failed.
Kay - what are you casting and what is the media (aluminum, brass, ...)? What is your furnace setup?

Didn't know you were into casting as well. Probably easier to just have a short list of things you don't do!
It would be a very short list. The woman is amazing.
I just wanted to make sure it's is the newer style replacement with 6 injectors down at the end of the lines and the older single puck injector with 6 nozzles.
If I still had the original setup, I’d probably remove the new fpr and re use the old damper. Just for piece of mind.
 

kaymccampbell

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2015
Messages
29,608
Location
Upstate New York
Kay - what are you casting and what is the media (aluminum, brass, ...)? What is your furnace setup?

Didn't know you were into casting as well. Probably easier to just have a short list of things you don't do!
Right now I'm working on little railing pediments. Cast in aluminum. Small things seem tougher than big stuff. Go figure.
I'm not sure what I don't do. Maybe y'all can make a list for me.
The homemade forge/furnace.
IMG_20240806_203027.jpg
The cobbled NG burner.
IMG_20240806_203136.jpg
 

rd65

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 29, 2017
Messages
2,827
Location
Granite Falls, WA
Charged the KTM battery while I trimmed and mowed the yard. After mowing was done I drained the float bowl and set tire pressures. Verified all the lights & horn are working correctly and took it up the block and back. Hand and shoulder seem to be healed enough to get a few rides in to work over the next couple of months.
 

welder4956

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Joined
Apr 8, 2010
Messages
3,080
Location
Birmingham, AL USA
Grabbed the string trimmer and made it halfway around the back fence, then grabbed some stakes and paracord to stake up a small tree that was leaning too much. By then it was too hot to do much more outside, so I moved inside to finish cleaning up my throttle cable bracket and new timing cover, then outside again to paint them. Also put a coat of clear engine paint on the intake manifold.

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20240807_145736.jpg
 

NUTTSGT

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Sep 14, 2009
Messages
51,107
Location
Northern Central Ohio
After that I was able to get a little more done on the parts for the rebuilt Mustang engine. I had ordered a new thermostat housing, so I bead blasted it and installed it on the intake manifold along with the vacuum tree, temperature sensor and heater hose fitting. Minor issue with the thermostat housing gasket that came with the new housing, but I had a new Felpro gasket that fit correctly.

20240806_101118.jpg


20240806_101042.jpg

20240806_101140.jpg

20240806_185002.jpg
For the future, I would recommend t-stat housing gaskets that are self adhesive and a set of studs threaded in the intake.

Once the intake is on the engine, both of them make swapping out the t-stat way more easier.

I can get you the part number for the gasket with the self adhesive on it.KIMG1594~2.JPG
 

WildBill

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Aug 20, 2021
Messages
2,030
Location
PNW
For the future, I would recommend t-stat housing gaskets that are self adhesive and a set of studs threaded in the intake.

Once the intake is on the engine, both of them make swapping out the t-stat way more easier.

I can get you the part number for the gasket with the self adhesive on it.KIMG1594~2.JPG
I just went through this a couple of days ago on my 67 cougar, was a pain getting the thermostat to stay in. I'm swapping to studs next time, thanks!
 
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WildBill

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Aug 20, 2021
Messages
2,030
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PNW
Grabbed the string trimmer and made it halfway around the back fence, then grabbed some stakes and paracord to stake up a small tree that was leaning too much. By then it was too hot to do much more outside, so I moved inside to finish cleaning up my throttle cable bracket and new timing cover, then outside again to paint them. Also put a coat of clear engine paint on the intake manifold.

20240807_141219.jpg

20240807_145757.jpg

20240807_145752.jpg

20240807_145736.jpg
Are you going with the F4B for the vintage look? My mustang came with one but it felt pretty weak down low and swapping to an RPM made it seem like a totally different motor across the whole range. Much smoother. They look cool though, I thought about working on porting it but decided (for once) I wasn't qualified and just bought the RPM. Mine also was the version with the screwy thermostat area, was hard to get it to seal properly until I figured out I needed a thermostat housing without a little cutout area as the intake already had one. And some thermostats were too thick for the cutout so I had to try a couple. Later F4Bs did not have a thermostat cutout area and take a different housing that has one.
 

WildBill

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Joined
Aug 20, 2021
Messages
2,030
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PNW
After replacing the whole fuel and braking systems over the last month or so of weekends my 67 cougar started and moved under its own power for the first time in at least 25 years. Was finally able to get it outside so I could pressure wash the suspension, had 57 years of dirt and gunk I wanted off before I start replacing suspension parts.

I dug it out of a paint booth where it had been locked up with no paint for 20+ years. Had to move a mountain of large heavy broken things to get to the paint booth garage door. Including a greyhound bus, a couple forklifts, and at least five jeep frames. You can see the wonderful green it was originally by the grill, it also had a cream vinyl top. I can see why someone ground the paint off. I'm thinking a dark maroon with black top.
cougoutsideclose.jpg
 

welder4956

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Joined
Apr 8, 2010
Messages
3,080
Location
Birmingham, AL USA
For the future, I would recommend t-stat housing gaskets that are self adhesive and a set of studs threaded in the intake.

Once the intake is on the engine, both of them make swapping out the t-stat way more easier.

I can get you the part number for the gasket with the self adhesive on it.KIMG1594~2.JPG
Thanks, I didn't know there was such a thing. A part number would be great.
 

welder4956

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 8, 2010
Messages
3,080
Location
Birmingham, AL USA
Are you going with the F4B for the vintage look? My mustang came with one but it felt pretty weak down low and swapping to an RPM made it seem like a totally different motor across the whole range. Much smoother. They look cool though, I thought about working on porting it but decided (for once) I wasn't qualified and just bought the RPM. Mine also was the version with the screwy thermostat area, was hard to get it to seal properly until I figured out I needed a thermostat housing without a little cutout area as the intake already had one. And some thermostats were too thick for the cutout so I had to try a couple. Later F4Bs did not have a thermostat cutout area and take a different housing that has one.
Truthfully I'm using it because I had it sitting on a shelf for the last 20 years. I think I picked it up at a swap meet for $20. I did not really like the Weiand X-celerator that was on the old engine. With the automatic transmission, it seemed to have a dead spot off idle but worked great at higher rpm. I think the RPM would have been a better choice and may swap one on later.

My thermostat housing also has a step in it for the thermostat to seat plus there is a shallower one in the intake. I seated the thermostat in the housing and put the gasket over it with Ultra Black sealant on both sides of the gasket. Hopefully there won't be any leaks, but if there are I know what to look for. I did not see any issues with the thermostat thickness when tightening the bolts. Thanks for the heads up.
 

WildBill

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Aug 20, 2021
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Truthfully I'm using it because I had it sitting on a shelf for the last 20 years. I think I picked it up at a swap meet for $20. I did not really like the Weiand X-celerator that was on the old engine. With the automatic transmission, it seemed to have a dead spot off idle but worked great at higher rpm. I think the RPM would have been a better choice and may swap one on later.

My thermostat housing also has a step in it for the thermostat to seat plus there is a shallower one in the intake. I seated the thermostat in the housing and put the gasket over it with Ultra Black sealant on both sides of the gasket. Hopefully there won't be any leaks, but if there are I know what to look for. I did not see any issues with the thermostat thickness when tightening the bolts. Thanks for the heads up.
Yeah, I think the X-celerator is pretty terrible for the street unless you have a really big motor, it has nothing below about 2500 rpm on normal street small blocks. At least that been my experience.

Your thermostat will probably be fine but if it leaks find an early style thermostat housing without the step, so you just have the one in the intake. Then you might have to try a couple thermostats to get one that doesn't hold the two apart. That's what I ended up having to do. When I took it apart with both of them having the step area I could see that the thermostat had actually moved and eventually messed up the gasket. It was shifted at a slight angle and had worn through a chunk of gasket on one side.
 

welder4956

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Apr 8, 2010
Messages
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Birmingham, AL USA
When I took it apart with both of them having the step area I could see that the thermostat had actually moved and eventually messed up the gasket. It was shifted at a slight angle and had worn through a chunk of gasket on one side.
That's pretty much the configuration I have and now you have me wondering if I should go ahead and fix it now. I could weld the step on one of them and file/sand it flat.
 

WildBill

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That's pretty much the configuration I have and now you have me wondering if I should go ahead and fix it now. I could weld the step on one of them and file/sand it flat.
Sorry, I didn't mean to get you stressed out about it. It could have just been my particular part combo, I think there were at least 3 versions of that intake over the years and dozens of housing designs.
 

Old Man Roger

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Apr 6, 2017
Messages
17,808
Location
Palm Coast Florida
What exactly was the final change to get 3 starts?
Trick question? Lol

But seriously, it’s not that simple. A year old aftermarket spider injector I believe caused the cold start issue, so I warrantied that, and it started fine for a few days.

Then one day the cold start issue returned, and the next day it turned into a no start. I then warrantied the few days old spider injector, and warrantied a few months old cam position sensor.

I suspect the spider injector caused the cold start issue, but I think the cam position sensor caused the no start.

I would have tried to start the truck between the new cps change, and the injector change, but I changed the cps while the intake was off for the injector change.

In the end, it got a new cam position sensor, and a new spider injector kit. Both parts had been change in the previous year, so I was reluctant to suspect them as the cause. Clearly I was wrong.lol
 

Mr.zippy

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Apr 27, 2020
Messages
2,221
Location
Wyoming
Trick question? Lol

But seriously, it’s not that simple. A year old aftermarket spider injector I believe caused the cold start issue, so I warrantied that, and it started fine for a few days.

Then one day the cold start issue returned, and the next day it turned into a no start. I then warrantied the few days old spider injector, and warrantied a few months old cam position sensor.

I suspect the spider injector caused the cold start issue, but I think the cam position sensor caused the no start.

I would have tried to start the truck between the new cps change, and the injector change, but I changed the cps while the intake was off for the injector change.

In the end, it got a new cam position sensor, and a new spider injector kit. Both parts had been change in the previous year, so I was reluctant to suspect them as the cause. Clearly I was wrong.lol

I've been fighting same thing on a surburban. I put an aftermarket cam sensor in it. I'm wondering if that isn't the problem. Thanks for the information!
 
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