Hansen 3 row socket trays

[308guru]

I was planning to pick up some Hansen socket trays to get my box organized and noticed they have 3 row trays available. Of course I instantly think “3 is more than 2”. What’s the intent of the middle row? Mid length sockets (of which I have none). I’m concerned I would miss out on something good, but who’s using them and why does everyone else need them?

 

[liliysdad]

Mid lengths… and you absolutely need them.

 

[nicks78camaro]

Mid lengths… and you absolutely need them.

Yes indeed, I reach for my semi deeps first every time.

 

[bonneyman]

I have a few of the Hanson trays and like 'em. A 3 row would be great for overflow sockets if you didn't have mid length ones.

 

[ecotec]

I have a few of the Hanson trays and like 'em. A 3 row would be great for overflow sockets if you didn't have mid length ones.

Or 12pt sockets or extra shallow sockets…

 

[brockmub]

I have several sets of the 2 row Hansen for 1/4, 3/8, & 1/2. One of the issues I don't like about them is I wish the 1/4 & 3/8 were the same width so I could organize them together and they took up roughly the same amount of space. Maybe the 3/8 in the picture above is the same size as the 1/2" tray?

 

[Snapped-off]

Semi deeps on mine.

12 points are on a separate tray.

 

[Kurt4440]

I have a few of the Hanson trays and like 'em. A 3 row would be great for overflow sockets if you didn't have mid length ones.

I find it odd that a 10+ year member is proposing using the third row for "overflow" sockets.
We all know that you need mid length / semi deep sockets. If a member doesn't have them, it is our job to coerce them into purchasing them, not give them an easy out. Additionally, Hansen trays must be full, or the OCD kicks in.

The real question is, what do you do with extra sockets that exceed the Hansen tray capacity?

They make the magnetic socket holders with three rows now, but, the same issues apply.

 

[drmarkr]

I find it odd that a 10+ year member is proposing using the third row for "overflow" sockets.
We all know that you need mid length / semi deep sockets. If a member doesn't have them, it is our job to coerce them into purchasing them, not give them an easy out. Additionally, Hansen trays must be full, or the OCD kicks in.

The real question is, what do you do with extra sockets that exceed the Hansen tray capacity?

They make the magnetic socket holders with three rows now, but, the same issues apply.

Kurt gets it....

 

[charbar]

I have several sets of the 2 row Hansen for 1/4, 3/8, & 1/2. One of the issues I don't like about them is I wish the 1/4 & 3/8 were the same width so I could organize them together and they took up roughly the same amount of space. Maybe the 3/8 in the picture above is the same size as the 1/2" tray?

My three row 3/8" organizers are 3/8" wider and 5" shorter than my two row 1/2" organizers.

I

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I find it odd that a 10+ year member is proposing using the third row for "overflow" sockets.
We all know that you need mid length / semi deep sockets. If a member doesn't have them, it is our job to coerce them into purchasing them, not give them an easy out. Additionally, Hansen trays must be full, or the OCD kicks in.

The real question is, what do you do with extra sockets that exceed the Hansen tray capacity?

They make the magnetic socket holders with three rows now, but, the same issues apply.

Issue with those is they're not all in line. Although the staggered setup does save space.

I have 6 rows of 3/8 sockets, non specialty sockets, on my cart. So if I grab a 14mm for my electric ratchet, instead of moving the socket to the torque wrench I can just go further back in line. It sounds dumb but it's really efficient. Oh, too short? Grab a semideep. Oh, semi deep is already on something? Grab the impact semideep. I think it makes recouping all the tools during cleaning up much easier.

 

[Kurt4440]

Issue with those is they're not all in line. Although the staggered setup does save space.

I have 6 rows of 3/8 sockets, non specialty sockets, on my cart. So if I grab a 14mm for my electric ratchet, instead of moving the socket to the torque wrench I can just go further back in line. It sounds dumb but it's really efficient.

I had the same thought about socket selection efficiency, therefore, I think you are brilliant.

 

[brockmub]

I had the same thought about socket selection efficiency, therefore, I think you are brilliant.

I agree, sounds like a pretty great idea. Would love to see a picture of it too, might help make a decision about getting a 3 row vs a 2 row.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I agree, sounds like a pretty great idea. Would love to see a picture of it too, might help make a decision about getting a 3 row vs a 2 row.

I'll get a picture in the morning. I have the deeps offset back now, to better use space until my new cart comes in. Hopefully this month that will arrive, then I'm back to 6 deep. I errantly typed that before I realized I did swap back from the 6 row setup., and now feel like an idiot. But I have 4 rows deep all in line, tool box widget organizers, they look glorious.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Nice part about toolbox widget is they're interlocking even within different drive sizes.

 

[AJHD]

Nice part about toolbox widget is they're interlocking even within different drive sizes.

That's cool looking setup. Do you have more pictures?

It does feel like a lot of wasted space, however. There is a lot of extra material around each socket, especially the smaller ones.
Not to say more traditional 2 or 3 row trays are much better.

 

[Nick Rivers]

I was planning to pick up some Hansen socket trays to get my box organized and noticed they have 3 row trays available. Of course I instantly think “3 is more than 2”. What’s the intent of the middle row? Mid length sockets (of which I have none). I’m concerned I would miss out on something good, but who’s using them and why does everyone else need them?

Front row for 6 point sockets, middle row for 12 point, back row for deep sockets.

 

[NORTON'S SHOP]

I was planning to pick up some Hansen socket trays to get my box organized and noticed they have 3 row trays available. Of course I instantly think “3 is more than 2”. What’s the intent of the middle row? Mid length sockets (of which I have none). I’m concerned I would miss out on something good, but who’s using them and why does everyone else need them?

My take on this is that Hansen collaborated with all the socket manufacturers just to **** with everyone's OCD on this forum.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

That's cool looking setup. Do you have more pictures?

It does feel like a lot of wasted space, however. There is a lot of extra material around each socket, especially the smaller ones.
Not to say more traditional 2 or 3 row trays are much better.

For 1/4 i generally agree. The second picture shows westling machine trays, which are much tighter. Downside is they require more space for any sockets you don't actually need. The widgets allow for complete freedom in setup. The first Pic is 1/2 price which I don't have staged in line quite the same as 3/8.

 

[AJHD]

@2ndGearRubber I think I asked you in another thread, but for the life of me I cannot find it.
What sockets are these? Craftsman?

 

[308guru]

Front row for 6 point sockets, middle row for 12 point, back row for deep sockets.

I like this approach.

I've got a set of 3 row's on the way.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

@2ndGearRubber I think I asked you in another thread, but for the life of me I cannot find it.
What sockets are these? Craftsman?

Those are the matco verson of grip-edge hex bits. Fantastic tool.

 

[AJHD]

Those are the matco verson of grip-edge hex bits. Fantastic tool.

I know we're going off topic, but...

I have a similar RBRT set from MAC. 5mm-10mm. Used them a few times, they work great.

7-PC. 3/8" Drive Metric R.B.R.T.™ Short Hex Driver Set

Rounded Bolt Removal Technology (R.B.R.T.™) designed to prevent the rounding of hex fasteners .Anti-slip dual-directional hex driver is effective at removing compromised hex fasteners .S2 tool steel bits are precision machined for use on standard or compromised hex fasteners .Bi-directional...

www.mactools.com

I don't see any other hex bit sockets in your pictures. I'm curious, are you using them as your primary hex bit sockets over more traditional hex bit sockets? Any negatives you've encountered doing that (as a result of their design)?

8 PIECE 3/8" DRIVE METRIC OPTI-GRIP HEX BIT SOCKET SET SBXYM8OGB | Matco Tools

www.matcotools.com

 

[2ndGearRubber]

They're now my main/only use 3/8, when I find a 1/4 set up to 8mm I will also buy that.

Issues are pretty minimal. Normally if you "neutral drop" a hex bit on an electric ratchet it is just rejected and there is minimal damage. With the tooth type design of these if you neutral drop into something and it's not engaged it can tear a little bit of metal at the entrance. Generally speaking one should not neutral drop into bit-type fasteners, so I'm not sure this is an issue.

The bits most brands use are interchangeable between impact and chrome socket bases. These probably are too, but the impact versions I've seen are one solid piece, so you can't have a spare bit. This means I have to impact on the chrome if I want to remove a rotor set screw. It won't hurt the S2 steel bit just like most other brands, but it will beat-up the socket which is annoying. I would have paid more for an impact rated base with the replaceable bit.


My main complaints are - color and visuals. Bits IMO should be something NOT grey. This way I can see against a black, or gold, or whatever finish how much wear the bit has. This tells me what size it is, based on the wear pattern. When you buy these, you're back to square one eyeballing sizes for a while. Your brain cannot comprehend that shape=hex. So you always pick the wrong size.

IDK what other brands do, but matco had these on sale for like $115, when grip edge was $100 and you get an extra size. You live and die with that 11mm doing brakes. So to me it was a no-brainer to get the (hopefully) easier warranty when the bits eventually fail. I would not buy a set which didn't included 11mm unless I was willing to buy singles to add on. Same deal with 1/4, I require 8mm.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

IMO don't buy anything but these. Unless it comes out this design causes cancer or something, regular hex is just way inferior.

Thinking back to the color, you may not see wear pattern even if they were black, due to the geometry.

 

[AJHD]

They're now my main/only use 3/8, when I find a 1/4 set up to 8mm I will also buy that.

Issues are pretty minimal. Normally if you "neutral drop" a hex bit on an electric ratchet it is just rejected and there is minimal damage. With the tooth type design of these if you neutral drop into something and it's not engaged it can tear a little bit of metal at the entrance. Generally speaking one should not neutral drop into bit-type fasteners, so I'm not sure this is an issue.

The bits most brands use are interchangeable between impact and chrome socket bases. These probably are too, but the impact versions I've seen are one solid piece, so you can't have a spare bit. This means I have to impact on the chrome if I want to remove a rotor set screw. It won't hurt the S2 steel bit just like most other brands, but it will beat-up the socket which is annoying. I would have paid more for an impact rated base with the replaceable bit.


My main complaints are - color and visuals. Bits IMO should be something NOT grey. This way I can see against a black, or gold, or whatever finish how much wear the bit has. This tells me what size it is, based on the wear pattern. When you buy these, you're back to square one eyeballing sizes for a while. Your brain cannot comprehend that shape=hex. So you always pick the wrong size.

IDK what other brands do, but matco had these on sale for like $115, when grip edge was $100 and you get an extra size. You live and die with that 11mm doing brakes. So to me it was a no-brainer to get the (hopefully) easier warranty when the bits eventually fail. I would not buy a set which didn't included 11mm unless I was willing to buy singles to add on. Same deal with 1/4, I require 8mm.

Thanks for the input.
What makes/models are using the 11mm for on brakes? I assume caliper slide pins. I remember some of them being hex.

 

[purplezr2]

I didn't read all the responses, but anyone running long/short/astro nano sockets on a 3 peg setup?

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Thanks for the input.
What makes/models are using the 11mm for on brakes? I assume caliper slide pins. I remember some of them being hex.

Chrysler/jeep/stelantis stuff mostly. I believe a few VW and Ford models used it but I can't remember.

 

[mikey03]

IMO don't buy anything but these. Unless it comes out this design causes cancer or something, regular hex is just way inferior.

Thinking back to the color, you may not see wear pattern even if they were black, due to the geometry.

I would think they chew up the inside of the fastener but your saying it’s all good that’s real interesting to hear!

 

[Draftpick1]

I find it odd that a 10+ year member is proposing using the third row for "overflow" sockets.
We all know that you need mid length / semi deep sockets. If a member doesn't have them, it is our job to coerce them into purchasing them, not give them an easy out. Additionally, Hansen trays must be full, or the OCD kicks in.

The real question is, what do you do with extra sockets that exceed the Hansen tray capacity?

They make the magnetic socket holders with three rows now, but, the same issues apply.

I have this 3 row tray, and like it!

 

[Kurt4440]

I have this 3 row tray, and like it!

Were you able to fit, shallow, semi deep, and deep sockets from 6mm to 20mm without any missing or any extras sockets?
Inquiring minds want to know.

If you did manage this feat, please post several pictures, (we will know if you have extras).
If there are any missing, or mismatched sockets, please do not post a picture, it will harm this community.

 

[gatewaysysop]

I've seen these and been tempted, but have lived a sheltered life without needing mid-depth sockets. If I had any, I think it'd be hard to not get the 3-row trays for them, however.

 

[Draftpick1]

Were you able to fit, shallow, semi deep, and deep sockets from 6mm to 20mm without any missing or any extras sockets?
Inquiring minds want to know.

If you did manage this feat, please post several pictures, (we will know if you have extras).
If there are any missing, or mismatched sockets, please do not post a picture, it will harm this community.

I don't have mid length I have my shallow and deep standard sockets and deep impact in my tray and not sure what you mean missing sockets they hold what ever sockets they are made for never had any that were to big to fit. I have 5 of these trays 1 three row and 4 double rows. I had some Hansen trays but the pegs always broke on the smaller sockets and these here have nothing to break.

 

[BroncoAZ]

I just ordered some Hansen trays for my metric only cart. I went with 2 row for 1/2” impact sockets, 3/8” impact sockets, and 1/4” chrome sockets, and 3 row for 3/8” chrome sockets in deep/mid/shallow. I want to keep this box tidy, so I’m not including my extra shallow Astro nano impacts on 3 row impact trays. I may skip the 1/4” 2 row as I also have VIM 1/4” deep/shallow/universal on their magnetic rails. The cart is primarily for vehicle repairs, so not much SAE left anymore. I do have Sunex SAE and metric 3/8” mid 12 point impacts in their plastic boxes down in a specialty drawer if I need them.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

I wish they made a 4 row. I would love to have my Deep/Shallow Chrome/Impact on one tray. We all have different preferences, so it's understandable why they can't accommodate us all.

 

[impactims]

I use many Hansen 3 row organizers.

The middle row is for semi-deep sockets technically, but I also use it for shallow sockets.

Whichever is most convenient to put there.

 

[mike93lx]

I didn't read all the responses, but anyone running long/short/astro nano sockets on a 3 peg setup?

Sort of.

My Hansen are mostly deep, shallow 12 PT and shallow 6 PT. On my 3/8 metric tray, I have my Astro nanos stacked on top of the shallow 6pts on the middle row. So four sets of socket on that tray.

Not a pro or even a heavy user, so consolidated is nicer than the easiest access, and I don't have any mid lengths, so this setup is working pretty well for me

 

[NUTTSGT]

I find it odd that a 10+ year member is proposing using the third row for "overflow" sockets.
We all know that you need mid length / semi deep sockets. If a member doesn't have them, it is our job to coerce them into purchasing them, not give them an easy out. Additionally, Hansen trays must be full, or the OCD kicks in.

The real question is, what do you do with extra sockets that exceed the Hansen tray capacity?

They make the magnetic socket holders with three rows now, but, the same issues apply.

I have some mid-depth sockets and never really used them. 3rd rail Hansen trays, no thanks. I'll stop there with self-control.

Extra overflow sockets ae back on the old Cman socket rails.

My Hansen trays are full. . . . self control. . . don't need to go through that again, trying to fill missing spots.

 

[Kurt4440]

I have some mid-depth sockets and never really used them. 3rd rail Hansen trays, no thanks. I'll stop there with self-control.

Extra overflow sockets ae back on the old Cman socket rails.

My Hansen trays are full. . . . self control. . . don't need to go through that again, trying to fill missing spots.

My dry sense of humor is sometimes lost on others.
As a general rule, I hope my posts are: informative, humorous, or acknowledge another person's accomplishments. If I can hit the trifecta, even better.
Good job with the self control.

 

[Callelle]

I've replaced my Hansens with Westlings, but my 3rd rows are either for mids, extra deeps, or nanos.