1/2 drive torque adapters

[2ndGearRubber]

Previously documented in another thread - 1/2 drive metric torque adapters - is there any option for a mostly complete set aside from Capri who sells 14-24?

New tool offerings from Capri

Hard to find 1/2" drive metric torque adapters They have SAE as well https://capritools.com/shop/9-piece-1-2-drive-torque-adapter-mechanics-tray-14-to-24-mm-metric/ 3/8" drive 8-24mm shallow, semi deep, and deep impact sockets with extensions and a swivel...

www.garagejournal.com

Has anyone tried these and put big-torque through them torquing..... 22mm caliper bracket bolts or suspension hardware? I'd like to try these but have no experience with capri.

 

[dchawk81]

I have some Capri wrenches that aren't very confidence inspiring.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I have some Capri wrenches that aren't very confidence inspiring.

Fair enough, I actually have a set of stubby capri with the toothed jaw and toothed 6pt box. Completely forgot about them, until now, shows how much I use them. But when you need them.....

 

[mikey03]

Snap on makes a 3/8 drive adapter in 22 if you could fit one of those downsizers to convert the anvil to 3/8

i checked that sweet chart Adam made and it shows 22mm head bolt is M14 and grade 8.8 would be 100 foot pounds max torque and grade 10 would be 150 pounds and your 3/8 tech angle goes to 125 only so if it’s grade 10 I see that as a problem and I hope the drove adapter plus the 3/8 torque adapter will fit

snap on makes a 22mm crowfoot in 1/2 it’s SCOM22 but bro I think a capri torque adapter might be more fun than a snap on crowfoot to use. Crowfoot always scare me lol

you could also look to see if anyone makes a 7/8 SAE torque adapter in 1/2 since that might be close enough. When I was doing oxygen sensors I saw them all listed as 22 and also 7/8 on the same tool. but I checked and snap on don’t start until 1”

or maybe find some stubby double box end with 22mm on one end and do some kind of conversion to get the other end to lock down onto the 1/2 anvil like a bolt with a size that fits the other end of the 22 stubbie with a nut on it that fits a socket that is on the torque wrench

idk maybe that’s crazy but just throwing some ideas for you to think about since your always so helpful to everyone here

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Snap on makes a 3/8 drive adapter in 22 if you could fit one of those downsizers to convert the anvil to 3/8

i checked that sweet chart Adam made and it shows 22mm head bolt is M14 and grade 8.8 would be 100 foot pounds max torque and grade 10 would be 150 pounds and your 3/8 tech angle goes to 125 only so if it’s grade 10 I see that as a problem and I hope the drove adapter plus the 3/8 torque adapter will fit

snap on makes a 22mm crowfoot in 1/2 it’s SCOM22 but bro I think a capri torque adapter might be more fun than a snap on crowfoot to use. Crowfoot always scare me lol

you could also look to see if anyone makes a 7/8 SAE torque adapter in 1/2 since that might be close enough. When I was doing oxygen sensors I saw them all listed as 22 and also 7/8 on the same tool. but I checked and snap on don’t start until 1”

or maybe find some stubby double box end with 22mm on one end and do some kind of conversion to get the other end to lock down onto the 1/2 anvil like a bolt with a size that fits the other end of the 22 stubbie with a nut on it that fits a socket that is on the torque wrench

idk maybe that’s crazy but just throwing some ideas for you to think about since your always so helpful to everyone here

I'm a little concerned about the drive tool, thinking about caliper bracket bolt at 150-200ft/lbs. You'll see that on 21 and 22mm bolts commonly. You're right though, a smaller double box wrench with a hex-bit socket to drive it sort of works like a torque adapter. I should use that more often. Problem is I don't think I have hex above 19mm. Embarrassing, I know.


With the force involved, I just don't want this thing yielding/exploding into pieces.

 

[mikey03]

I'm a little concerned about the drive tool, thinking about caliper bracket bolt at 150-200ft/lbs. You'll see that on 21 and 22mm bolts commonly. You're right though, a smaller double box wrench with a hex-bit socket to drive it sort of works like a torque adapter. I should use that more often. Problem is I don't think I have hex above 19mm. Embarrassing, I know.


With the force involved, I just don't want this thing yielding/exploding into pieces.

can you fit a XL long wrench on it or not really and that’s why you can’t use a 1/2 socket on breaker bar?

if you can fit a XL zero offset wrench maybe you can use a 3/8 torque adapter and come up with some torque angle to use and do it manually with the wrench. Maybe you can do 100 foot pounds plus 60 degrees and manually measure the angle you turn the wrench at the end

and you could maybe get a similar grade m14 bolt and put a nut in a bench vise and figure out how many degrees past the max your 3/8 torque wrench goes you need for that particular nut to hit 200. Honestly maybe the vise can’t hold the nut at that force and maybe you find some scrap car parts similar to where the bolt on the car goes and just tap that for m14 and you can fit that big car part in the vise and then do the test and tap it the same number of threads and depth as the actual part

make sure you record this for YouTube so the three hours you waste doing science gets you some clicks at least

i got not much experience with big *** caliper bolts tbh I think most I work on are 17 or 19. its weird if theres cars with tight spots around a caliper bolt that need 200 foot pounds and a 1/2 socket don’t fit that snap on or someone isn’t making a 1/2 torque adapter for that application

maybe you need to cut a 22 mm box end wrench and weld it to a socket or something that fits on your 1/2 and gives enough clearance

 

[tamaraw]

Do you have a photo of the caliper bracket in question or what access looks like? How do they expect techs to actually torque it?

There are Euro style torque wrenches with interchangeable heads, but that would be an expensive investment.

Bit sockets on a double box wrench are an option, as mikey03 mentioned.

Technically wrench extenders that fit onto a regular wrench and have a square drive input are an option too, but that might get sketchy.

What if you forgo a torque wrench and used a spring scale or fixed weight tethered to the end of the box wrench plus a little math to hit the required value?

Worst case scenario, you could waterjet a custom adapter out of steel plate or weld a socket onto a wrench.

 

[mikey03]

Can you go from the other side of the car with a 5 foot extension? I think the torque wrench accounts for the loss of torque from using a big *** extension but idk maybe it’s including the wasted torque in the reading

or maybe turn the wheel outward and remove the bumper to get more clearance but knowing you a bit I think you’d rather weld your own torque adapter than take any extra parts off the car that you didn’t need to

 

[dchawk81]

Fair enough, I actually have a set of stubby capri with the toothed jaw and toothed 6pt box. Completely forgot about them, until now, shows how much I use them. But when you need them.....

Yeah I actually think I just have the one. It's an obnoxious long one so I could give my deck plate the reach around, and was only needed on the aftermarket hardware. OEM brackets are a single person up top job. Much better design.

I don't think I'd put any real torque on it.

 

[mikey03]

Bit sockets on a double box wrench are an option, as mikey03 mentioned.

damn that’s honestly smarter than what I was thinking I was saying to get a bolt with a head that matches the other end of the DBE 22 mm wrench maybe a 24 mm if it’s a 22/24 wrench and put a nut on that bolt and then put a socket that fits that bolt and put the socket on the torque wrench but tbh the bit socket idea sounds cleaner and smarter

 

[2ndGearRubber]

can you fit a XL long wrench on it or not really and that’s why you can’t use a 1/2 socket on breaker bar?

if you can fit a XL zero offset wrench maybe you can use a 3/8 torque adapter and come up with some torque angle to use and do it manually with the wrench. Maybe you can do 100 foot pounds plus 60 degrees and manually measure the angle you turn the wrench at the end

and you could maybe get a similar grade m14 bolt and put a nut in a bench vise and figure out how many degrees past the max your 3/8 torque wrench goes you need for that particular nut to hit 200. Honestly maybe the vise can’t hold the nut at that force and maybe you find some scrap car parts similar to where the bolt on the car goes and just tap that for m14 and you can fit that big car part in the vise and then do the test and tap it the same number of threads and depth as the actual part

make sure you record this for YouTube so the three hours you waste doing science gets you some clicks at least

i got not much experience with big *** caliper bolts tbh I think most I work on are 17 or 19. its weird if theres cars with tight spots around a caliper bolt that need 200 foot pounds and a 1/2 socket don’t fit that snap on or someone isn’t making a 1/2 torque adapter for that application

maybe you need to cut a 22 mm box end wrench and weld it to a socket or something that fits on your 1/2 and gives enough clearance

These are maybe m16, with locktite from factory. I use a breaker bar or 24" ratchet and a stubby astro socket to get them free.

To retorque, I'm limited by swing of the torque wrench which annoys me.

Do you have a photo of the caliper bracket in question or what access looks like? How do they expect techs to actually torque it?

There are Euro style torque wrenches with interchangeable heads, but that would be an expensive investment.

Bit sockets on a double box wrench are an option, as mikey03 mentioned.

Technically wrench extenders that fit onto a regular wrench and have a square drive input are an option too, but that might get sketchy.

What if you forgo a torque wrench and used a spring scale or fixed weight tethered to the end of the box wrench plus a little math to hit the required value?

Worst case scenario, you could waterjet a custom adapter out of steel plate or weld a socket onto a wrench.

I believe it's the newer GM chassis 2500+ rear caliper bracket bolts, the upper ones. Gm has a service tool just for that.

I've made my own adapters before, but just buying a set would be better in my mind. There's a lot of places having a such a tool would be easier and faster.

 

[decableguy2000]

Ordered the Capri ones the other day. Waiting on FedEx. Capri has 15% off sale right now on their torque tools. I debated about getting the larger sizes as individuals, but opted for the set. Its a tool I need every once in a while. Been using calibrated wrist, elbow, shoulder torque method (witch one pops first). Probably won't need them for 6 months, so no way to give a real opinion of them for while.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Ordered the Capri ones the other day. Waiting on FedEx. Capri has 15% off sale right now on their torque tools. I debated about getting the larger sizes as individuals, but opted for the set. Its a tool I need every once in a while. Been using calibrated wrist, elbow, shoulder torque method (witch one pops first). Probably won't need them for 6 months, so no way to give a real opinion of them for while.

This is what I may end up doing. I hope they're good because one of those yielding would be a wild ride.

 

[toolenthusiast]

I think the torque wrench accounts for the loss of torque from using a big *** extension but idk maybe it’s including the wasted torque in the reading

big yikes

 

[Zewnten]

Use Snap On 3/8 version frequently without issues. Coworker had the Cornwell ones made in Taiwan, poster on here said his coworker broke one and was hurt in the process. Due to the amount of force these experience in use, I struggle to trust a brand like Capri considering the few tools of theirs I've handled.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Use Snap On 3/8 version frequently without issues. Coworker had the Cornwell ones made in Taiwan, poster on here said his coworker broke one and was hurt in the process. Due to the amount of force these experience in use, I struggle to trust a brand like Capri considering the few tools of theirs I've handled.

I bought a set of 3/8 sockets from them, and the stubby wrenches, and maybe 1 impact swivel?

They worked fine for me. Most of my torque adapters are snap on. They were my default, but it seems ONLY capri makes a full set of these.

 

[mikey03]

@2ndGearRubber what did you wind up doing to get it done or is the car still taking up a bay at work

 

[2ndGearRubber]

@2ndGearRubber what did you wind up doing to get it done or is the car still taking up a bay at work

Astro stubby socket with a really short swing that has my face by the bed and is hard on my shoulder. I do have offset adapters for sockets, but the torque adapter would be much more elegant.

Few jobs I can't find a way torque, it's just unpleasant. I could just crank it down and it would "be fine". But a few years ago I began a holy crusade to reduce the number of over tightened caliper bracket bolts. I can only do my part, but I feel that I now have a right to ***** about other people over tightening them since I am torquing them. FWIW it hasn't made much of a difference, but it makes me feel better.

 

[Zewnten]

I bought a set of 3/8 sockets from them, and the stubby wrenches, and maybe 1 impact swivel?

They worked fine for me. Most of my torque adapters are snap on. They were my default, but it seems ONLY capri makes a full set of these.

I'd trust almost any manufacturer for sockets. Heck I've split SK 12 point sockets using a ratchet before. Torque adapters just seem to get used hardened, maybe its the extra bit of leverage they give or the lack of room requiring using more strength to break a fastener free.

 

[Zewnten]

For the few odd sizes SO doesn't make I've made my own from a 1/2 drive socket cut in half and a chunk of metal bar between them, some times the bar is an old wrench beam.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

For the few odd sizes SO doesn't make I've made my own from a 1/2 drive socket cut in half and a chunk of metal bar between them, some times the bar is an old wrench beam.

I have a 1/4 drive 10mm like that, I think made from a HF wrench and socket. I just don't like making as much as I like buying finished things. Up until a few weeks ago the shops welder was broken, ground cable was bad so it never moved any current, so making things has been less on my radar.