About to start a new build..........need thoughts, opinions!

[PWC Repair]

Wife and I are about to start building our son's house......he's paying us and helping. Basically it's a 30x22 footprint on a shoestring budget. Anyway I want your thoughts.
#1-----roof sheathing over 2ft o.c. trusses. Will 5/8" osb be just fine or should he really spring for 19/32 Plytanium?
#2----floor joists. wood blocking or metal x bracing

#3----house wrap, foil barrier wrap, or old school felt paper

 

[nmk_61802]

My thoughts for what they are worth:

5/8" OSB is fine on 24" members for the roof provided you get minor snow fall (I assume none in Arkansas), have a minimum of 4/12 pitch and you are going with a lighter roof material, metal or shingles. I would guess being on a budget and in Arkansas all of these things are true

Floor Joist blocking, can be either in my opinion, what ever is most economical in time or money. In my experience blocking is cheaper, metal is faster, so pick you posion.

For wrap use tyvek or similar moisture barrier or Zip board if you are feeling spendy. I would not cheap out and use felt paper, and IMO foil wrap is only a step above.

 

[PWC Repair]

My thoughts for what they are worth:

............ roof provided you get minor snow fall (I assume none in Arkansas), ..........

LOL! We get snow every winter but normally 2-5" at a time and only lasts a few days. In 2011 we got a foot dumped on us in about 5 hours! Then in 2013 we got a couple inches of sleet first AND THEN about 8" of snow. Questionable pole barns, garages, porch roofs, and boat docks all collapsed. But yes, 4/12-12/12 dual pitch roof with shingles.

 

[BillK]

If you are really trying to pinch pennys my roof is 1/2" plywood on 2 ft oc trusses. Its 4/12 pitch and has been just fine for 46 years. Personally I would use plywood over osb. I know things have improved over the years but I have seen osb swelled etc from moisture too many times.

 

[PWC Repair]

If you are really trying to pinch pennys my roof is 1/2" plywood on 2 ft oc trusses. Its 4/12 pitch and has been just fine for 46 years. Personally I would use plywood over osb. I know things have improved over the years but I have seen osb swelled etc from moisture too many times.

And that's why I'm asking. That thought keeps going through my mind and I just don't know.......but I see osb on many new construction sites.

 

[Rusted Nut]

1/2” is usually fine for trusses on 24” centers. However make sure whatever sheathing you choose has 24/48 rating; meaning 24” centers on the long side, and 48” unsupported on the short (standard stuff). 3/4” would probably be too heavy for most trusses.

Wood blocking works. Not sure what vapor barrier for Arkansas.

 

[LopezBart]

Your county will likely have required minimum engineering specs for snow load, wind speed, insulation, etc. Space footings to keep floor stiff - house will have a nicer feel with stiffer floors. Stretch the limited budget on things difficult/impossible to upgrade later. If your area is subject to tornadoes/hurricanes, your required construction standards may be higher than for areas w/o such hazards.

 

[TurnipTruck]

I personally don’t like stapled sheathing or shingles on osb.
Half inch plywood on 24” oc trusses is fine.
If you are ordering custom trusses I like to tweak the pitch or eave tail lengths to minimize ripping plywood.

 

[jack stand]

Just don't forget the 1/2" plywood "clips".

 

[mike93lx]

I personally don’t like stapled sheathing or shingles on osb.
Half inch plywood on 24” oc trusses is fine.
If you are ordering custom trusses I like to tweak the pitch or eave tail lengths to minimize ripping plywood.

Staples are for upholstery and insulation, IMO.

I agree on 1/2 ply (15/32) being fine, but my first choice would be 1/2" ZIP. Especially on a diy build, being able to be weather tight right after laying sheathing is nice.

Same thing on wall sheathing...an integrated WRB would be the way I go. Gp forcefield is a much lower cost option, but LP also has weatherlogic.

I doing a wrap, I'd go tyvek. Foil wraps don't really do anything

Regular old wood blocking works fine but I'm sure metal installs easily

 

[Notgrownup]

How much more would 16” o/c? Wood blocks between floor joists should be fine. Plus you can nail in them , can’t nail into a metal cross brace. Tyvek style house wrap works. I would use that, I used it on my house and then again on my shop.

 

[bluedog225]

Agree with much of above. You need to understand which way the wall is going to dry. Foil is moisture barrier and can cause issues if you don’t do it right. And with regards to emissivity and reflectivity, foil only works with a gap on one side.

I like 3/4 ply. Will give the whole place a stronger feel. Otherwise rated 1/2 ply.

It’s amazing how much a small footprint house consumes in resources. Personally, I’d sink any extra money into the foundation and framing. And I like the longevity and some water resistance you get with ply.

 

[NUTTSGT]

1/2" OSB with clips is standard around here 24"OC. If you want to go 5/8", I see nothing wrong with it but I probably wouldn't go thicker than that, but that is just me.

I used Zip on the addition and it was amazing how much better it worked once taped. I also spray foamed the bottom 3" of the wall cavity with Great Stuff.

I'll also take wood blocking over the metal strapping.

 

[ddurrett896]

Wife and I are about to start building our son's house......he's paying us and helping. Basically it's a 30x22 footprint on a shoestring budget. Anyway I want your thoughts.
#1-----roof sheathing over 2ft o.c. trusses. Will 5/8" osb be just fine or should he really spring for 19/32 Plytanium?

#3----house wrap, foil barrier wrap, or old school felt paper

1) 5/8 Plywood
2) Zip panels

 

[cannuck]

And that's why I'm asking. That thought keeps going through my mind and I just don't know.......but I see osb on many new construction sites.

You asked for opinions, so I guess I will give you mine: the reason is the people building and selling what you are seeing don't have to live in those houses and apartments. They cash in on the first sale. If you are going 24" OC for cryin' out loud don't cheap out on the sheathing!

 

[Old tool guy]

Wood blocking might be free … cutoffs from framing. Metal bracing doesn’t need to be drilled to run wires through it.

 

[PWC Repair]

You asked for opinions, so I guess I will give you mine: the reason is the people building and selling what you are seeing don't have to live in those houses and apartments. They cash in on the first sale. If you are going 24" OC for cryin' out loud don't cheap out on the sheathing!

See.....now that's what I call common sense! I have to talk to my son but I will feel better if we use 5/8 ply on the roof.

Wood blocking might be free … cutoffs from framing. Metal bracing doesn’t need to be drilled to run wires through it.

I'm leaning more this direction for the open area through the bridging.

 

[PWC Repair]

Placed a big order this morning. 5/8 ply for the roof sheathing, and a couple boxes of simpson joist bridges. Probably just going with Tyvek or Typar wrap. Thanks everybody for your thoughts!